56FordGuy

Everything about that looks great. The gun, the belt, the holster, just great.

I'll play. I have a Browning BPS that I got from a duck hunter, I think he might've carried it under the boat. I try to keep the rust at bay with some oil and steel wool.

Or possibly an Excursion.

I got Russell's address yesterday, the box will go out tomorrow.

I'm afraid it will be a couple of weeks before I'm ready to shoot it. When the time comes, I'll make sure y'all know. Had the safe not been severely damaged before I got it, that would be possible. As it sits now, the body is not square anymore, and there's a hole gouged in it at the edge of the door. It's been done. One guy bent a 6' pry bar attempting to force it open.

I'm looking for a specific type of truck, make, model, and drivetrain (7.3 with a manual transmission). If I just needed a 4x4, I imagine it would be a much easier search.

Hey now, it wasn't my truck! I'm actually looking for a 4x4 right now, otherwise I could've found a truck already.

That don't matter! I knew a guy once that took a two wheel drive Mazda pickup and lifted it, then put a set of 35s under it. Goofy looking truck.

I plan on it, before I get rid of it. I'll use the tractor and haul it down to the field, then shoot at it. I'll be sure to provide pictures, if not video, of all the testing (and shooting) here, too.

I've looked at Sentry, Champion, and Browning safes in detail. All three use sheetrock for fireproofing. I'd guess that most gun safes are similar. Granted, the Champion and Browning have more sheetrock than the Sentry, but that's all I've found in them.

I plan on attacking the sides, along with the door. I would guess most thieves are smart enough to do the same. Fireliners are sheetrock on the sides and bottom, I believe the same for the door.

Well, the scrap metal made money for me, but it was nice for someone else because they had no way to dispose of 1400 pounds of steel and needed it gone. Partial credit?

I've happened across a trashed safe. It's already been subjected to a lot of testing, and as a result the door locking bolts are bent, the lock knob and handle are broken, and the body is slightly twisted. However, it's still closed, locked, and secure. Before disposing of it, I want to see what it takes to actually open it. How effective are grinders, saws, and torches? I want to know. The question is, what else would you like to see done to it? I plan on attempting to open it with a reciprocating saw, angle grinder, and a cutting torch. I've even thought about dragging it out and shooting at it, just because. What else would you like to see tried on it?

The S&W logo Hogue grips don't cover the backstrap, but they're much more comfortable than the standard grips that come on most J frame revolvers.

Hauled off some scrap metal, then came home and installed some trim in the house.

I don't hate progress, I just prefer older stuff. I've got tactical plastic that I like. It just seems like older guns are built better, for lack of a nicer term. My 870 is a great shotgun, if I ever had to rest my life on it I'm sure it would perform. That said, it doesn't compare to th fit or finish of my model 37. The action of the Ithaca is smoother, it's quieter, and feels more solid than the 870. Points and handles better, too.

I'm a big fan of the older, classic guns. My favorite .22 was made in 1961, and there's just no comparing the Ithaca model 37 to any modern shotgun. To think that those were just run of the mill, mass produced guns at the time and not custom jobs is impressive. Even though it isn't a classic, my AR has only been to the range once since I picked up a Winchester .357 lever action. The lever gun is just a lot more fun.

Not sure what my 'oddest' item is. Probably one of these: Surefire advertising banner and flashlight stands Prototype Surefire light, another SF that was a very, very limited run. Grill and fenders off a '51 Willys, grill off a '48 Chainsaw carved, bear shaped lamp. Oh, and the original horn off the Silver Comet locomotive than ran out of Atlanta many, many years ago.

Could you lightly sand or reshape the wood grips the clear the speedloaders better? The S&W 642-2, the PowerPort version, comes with factory 2 finger Hogue grips with the S&W logo on them. You might try a set of those grips.

Off today myself. Went down to see the guys at The Safe House, should pick up my new safe later this week.

Prayers for everyone involved, please keep us in mind if you, your friend, or his family need anything.

If you're driving from Memphis to Knoxville, stop in Nashville. Exit #226 off of I-40, go north on Mt Juliet road. Under a mile, on the right is the Reloader's Bench. Service and prices can be hit or miss, but they have one of the largest selections of reloading components in stock in the area.

Maybe the H&K P2000?

Every time I've seen E85 for sale, it was noticeably less expensive than regular gasoline.

The PIF box is ready to go. I removed the Magpul follower, and the AR chamber brush, I added the red dot and scope mount. It now includes: Kydex shotshell holder for belt Kydex Pepper spray pouch (might hold other stuff too) Pair of genuine (or maybe not) pearl grips for a small revolver Lee Chamfer Tool Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner Hoppes Flexible Shotgun Chamber Cleaning Rod Standard AR-15 pistol grip Nylon slip-over-stock ammo holder 20 gauge brass brush, and wool mop A new nylon shoulder holster for med to lg frame pistols A 3-hole turret plate for Lee turret presses. Six 20 round boxes of 30-30 brass (120 rounds) Scope mount and rings off of a Mossberg 30-30 NC Star red dot sight The first post after this post to claim the box will receive it. Can meet in the middle TN area, or mail it.