56FordGuy

There are one or two of us here. I have seats in 325.

Haven't had either of those particular models. I've got a Winchester .357 lever action, though. I really, really like that rifle. I think buying a .357 lever action would be a wonderful choice. Out of the two you posted, if the price difference isn't too bad I'd go with the Marlin. That's based solely on name recognition, and the fact that the barrel is a bit shorter.

I agree. I have a few friends that are gay, and they're just regular folks. Just like the media finds the most stereotypical whacko to put on TV to represent gun owners, I'd say they do the same thing with gay people. They're not all wimpy, scrawny, feminine guys.

Aright. We need to do this. I'd like to suggest we do this on Sunday, November 7th. Opinions?

This is great to hear. Thanks to the Lord.

When a person murders another person, there is obvious harm done. When a non driving passenger has a beer, who is harmed?

Got a reference? I'd like to see where the actions of the passenger can cause the driver to become intoxicated. Crimson posted while I was typing...

If it's illegal for a non driving passenger to have an alcoholic beverage, then that's pretty close to my opinion. Not really a hot issue right now, though. Drinking and driving on a public roadway is stupid, and rightfully illegal. I don't believe anyone is arguing that point. However, a non-driving passenger is no different than a passenger in a chauffeured vehicle that you said was okay earlier. Neither one is driving. The guy that's going to drink and drive is probably going to do it, regardless of the law allowing his buddy in the passenger's seat to have a beer or not.

Jack...what? ;) As to the original question, well...both. Reloading can save a lot of money, but I don't think it's possible to reload any centerfire ammo for the cost of .22. One of my favorite guns is my Ruger Mark 3 .22 pistol. It's incredibly accurate, has a pretty good trigger from the factory, and very inexpensive to shoot.

Welcome

Switching from Dish to Direct. I lost my Fox Sports Network on Dish. GetWhatIPaidFor :: Get What I Paid For

Alright y'all, the time has come for us to select a date to clean up our section of Vietnam Veterans Blvd (SR 386). Our section is on the east bound side, from roughly mile marker 4 to mile marker 6. If you're thinking "Didn't we just do this", the answer is sort of. While there was a date selection thread, some things came up and we weren't able to move that quickly. So, we're trying again. We're required to perform 4 clean ups per year, and need to get in at least one by the end of the year. If you'd like to join our cause, I will need you to fill out a Volunteer Release Form and mail it to me before the clean up. You can also email me your signed Volunteer Release Form in the form of a PDF file. If you decide to mail me your form, please PM me for my address. I have to turn in the Volunteer Release forms for the folks who will be participating in the clean up to the DOT before we do it, so we won't be able to accept them the day of the cleanup. You DO NOT need to live in the Sumner County area to join our group. This is open to anyone who's willing to spend a couple hours keeping our section of roadway looking pretty. We are required to perform a clean-up 4 times a year (once per season is suggested), so you are not committing a huge amount of time if you choose to help. Folks, a lot of people have stepped up to help with this endeavor. I have received Volunteer Release Forms from 6 TGO members. I would list them, but the forms do not have screen names on them (this is the correct way to fill them out, if you do decide to join us please do not put your TGO user name on it) and I don't want to list everyone by name. Joe at Hero Gear was generous enough to donate 10 reflective vests to the clean up effort, so we will not have to use the TDOT supplied vests. Let's make this thing happen. Again, if you'd like to help, please visit the TGO's Sumner County Adopt-A-Highway Thread.

This. I'd first recommend Carhartt, I've been using the same one for about 8 years. The Tractor Supply store brand coats seems pretty good, too. If that doesn't work for you, Columbia makes a good jacket. For the record, you're going coat shopping at the exact wrong time. It's about to get cold, everybody is coat shopping right now. Do your coat shopping around April/ May, you'll get a much better deal. Just put it in the closet until you need it.

I don't want to get dragged into the 'Surefire is overpriced' debate, I understand how folks can see it from the opposite point of view. I do want to address the battery cost issue, though. SureFire E2L AA Outdoorsman LED Flashlight - E2LAA-HA-WH While it seems to be Surefire's only AA powered handheld light at the moment, it does eliminate having to buy 123 batteries.

Pretty good lower. Supposed to be better than DPMS/ Bushmaster/ etc... I built my 5.56 rifle on a Spike lower, and have no complaints. All the pin holes lined up right, the machining and finish seemed good.

I personally would avoid Ultrafire for a regular use light. Like most things sold on DX, they're basically the Harbor Freight of the flashlight world. Some folks have had good luck with them, but I would keep using the MagLite. Heck, the cost of the UltraFire is more than the difference of the Streamlight and your budget. I would also advise that the UF light probably does not meet the lumen rating that they claim. Lumen testig can be subjective, depending on the battery used (how hot is it) and the distance of the sensor from the lens.

If the last Streamlight you posted is the exact light you want, I'd recomend spending the extra $12.00. You might also want to look at the LumaPower MRV. It's a little too large for pocket carry, but throws very well. If this will be an every day general use light, you might want to reconsider throw being more important than flood. That's a bit of personal preference, though.

Actually hauled in a load of scrap yesterday... I sent you a PM with some options. Might be best to just put it on Craigslist for $500.00 as running, but needs transmission.

Shoot it, drag it up on a trailer and haul it in for scrap. What's that supposed to mean? If you just want to dispose of it, I'd put it up on Craigslist for a few hundred bucks. You could also do like someone else suggested and call Pull A Part over in west Nashville, I believe they buy complete vehicles. I'd shop it around to different scrapyards, see who'll give you the best offer and what they require. Some require the fuel tank be punctured before they'll purchase it, which could mean it has to be trailered in. Some will buy complete vehicles. I'll PM you.

Cool car. Too bad it's not a diesel. I'm a bigger fan of the W123 body style, but that's not a bad looking car.

I've been to that dealer and looked at those lights. If I had been able to make it down there for the 5.11 Days of May (I think that was it, 20% off all Surefire) I'd probably own a set. I didn't make it down there, and haven't really gotten excited about finding a set. I'm not entirely convinced that 1,000 units is all that limited by Surefire standards. The run of 1,000 titanium Titan lights was a limited run, and the last time I looked you could usually find one for sale without too much trouble. I'd love to have a 30th Anniversary set, but just haven't gotten excited about them enough to make it happen yet. If they're still around for the next big sale, I'll probably add one to the collection. Brightness: Both. There are super bright incandescent lights, and super bright LED lights. The LED units wont burn out like an incandescent bulb, and the battery life is usually better. That said, a lot of LEDs seem to have a blue tint, while incandescent lights have a more 'natural' light. Personal preference, really. Strobe: I think it's hype. Crenelated bezel: Probably don't need it, unless you intend to hit someone with your flashlight. I'd advise against using a flashlight as a first line of defense, so I'd consider it pretty unnecessary. What's your light budget? Do you want a light that will fit in your pocket, carry on your belt, or keep in the house/ vehicle? Do you want the light to have a tight, longer throwing beam, or a wider flood type beam? Do you have a preference as far as what type of batteries the light takes?

It's not an everyday occurrence, and it's usually limited to cheap, no name import batteries. Common sense goes a long way toward safe usage, don't mix new and old batteries, and if the batteries die, be sure to turn off the light or remove the batteries from it. That said, Cyclops Flashlight Explosion - CandlePowerForums Ultrafire 18650 3000mA exploded - CandlePowerForums 123 Primary Lithium cell info/testing/links - CandlePowerForums *Edit* I just want to note that this is not a flashlight issue, but a battery issue. If you simply read the link titles, you'll see that the first two specifically name import brand flashlights, while the third does not name any light in the title. If you open the third link and read through it, you'll find photos and details of a battery failure in a Surefire light. I just wanted to clarify that I'm referencing a specific type of battery and the risks involved in a battery failure, not just trying to 'run down' imported lights.

It's not great, but it ain't bad. Big ole slice for three dollars, but I'd consider it about average quality. Their selling point, to me, was the quanitity instead of the quality of food. It's not bad by any means, but it does come across as just another pizza. Nothing jumped out at me. Of course, that's only my opinion.

They can still be found, but they're considered a 'collectible' light and run $60.00+ . If you're taking the batteries out of incandescent lights, look into LEDs. When the batteries in most incan lights get low, they may still have enough power to run an LED light for a while. If the batteries you have are coming out of LED lights, then they probably won't have enough power to light the lamp of a 12B. If you're removing them from an LED, or even an incandescent light when it's very low, I would advise disposing of them. While it's usually limited to cheap, imported 123 batteries, 123 batteries can be over-discharged and fail, sometimes explosively.