56FordGuy

Joe, you're absolutely right about giving the big trucks room. Not only do you not know who's driving, you can't tell what kind of shape the truck is in. I've had trailers roll in with no brakes on them. Literally. Someone removed the wheels, removed the drums, removed the shoes and hardware, then reinstalled the drums and wheels with no shoes. That's just one of many situations I've come across. I'm sure not all driving schools are bad, but it seems like as much as the DOT examiners harp on the pretrip, the paid school guys don't. I've had 'schooled drivers' come in the shop that had no idea about checking wheel seals, when brakes were too low to run, or even "Hey, can you take that Lock Out, Do Not Use tag off so I can take that trailer to Memphis tonight?" I don't work on them anymore, just drive a flatbed one for work once in a while.

Marlin/ Glenfield Model 60.

I've worked around semi trucks, both as a mechanic and a driver for the last 6 years. I have yet to meet anyone that came from any driving school that had a clue what they were doing beyond 'Point the big thing down the road kind of that way'. Not to say there are no good driving schools out there, but I've yet to meet anyone from a driving school that had a clue. The others covered the basics. Watch the pre trip, they will bust you for every little thing. If you say "Check the alternator and fan belts", but only touch one of those two belts, they will dock you for missing one thing even though you mentioned it. If you don't say it, then in their eyes you didn't do it. I took my road test at the Hart Lane DMV in Nashville, the examiner I had was pretty cool. The road test was fairly easy, just watch your bridges and overpasses. After you go across or under one, they'll ask you what the height or weight limit for it was. Some may not have limit signs. Watch for that. Joe, Class B is over 10,000 GVW with no trailer. Dump trucks, those concrete block trucks, etc...

Just to be sure, it's chambered for .32 S&W? A bit of research says probably no more than $100.00.

I picked up a fairly nice soft case at a gunshow for about $45.00. It's thick, and has magazine pouches on the outside of it. I think it's a 'Quest' brand, but I'm not sure. I can check later.

Fess up. You were the new person, weren't you? :p

When I got my Droid X, I was waiting for the Otterbox to come out. My phone spent a lot of time sitting in the truck, because I was too nervous to take it with me when I was out doing something. Heck, even with the Otterbox it spends a lot of time in the truck. It's a good case, but it has it's limits.

How is it improved? Is there parking now? Last one wasn't bad, but I don't know if I'll make it to this one.

David had a run of stickers made a few months ago. I don't believe they're kept 'in stock', so to speak. Likewise, I think he had some hats made not too long ago also, but I'm pretty sure they sold out. The stickers may have as well. If that's the case, you may find something by posting a Want To Buy ad in the Trading Post.

What do you consider electronics maintenance? Are you willing to look into other fields of work?

CHMR is in that general area.

I've got one of the UTG brass catchers that Garufa linked to. A gentleman here set me up with it a while back. It works okay, but the weight of the brass quickly causes it to rotate downward, then the brass just goes over the mouth of it. The most effective way to use it seems to be to unzip the bottom so the brass falls out. You still have to pick it up, but as long as you arent moving around it's all in a nice pile by your feet, instead of thrown several feet away. I feel your pain leaving the brass laying, but I would do just that in a training class. The whole point is learning to use your weapon to stay alive, you need to be focused on learning and just chalk the cost of the brass up to being part of the deal. The instructors may not allow you to use a brass catcher on your rifle, anyway. Train like you fight probably wouldn't involve a brass catcher. If you shoot the brass ammo, I'd forget about keeping the brass and focus on the class. They may let you pick it up afterwards, but it's not really that big of a deal. If you shoot 2,000 rounds, that's like $20-30 worth of brass? Not worth a lot of worry, considering the cost of most training classes.

I love my 552, wouldn't mind having another one.

Bronker, the drill press is a great idea. I wonder if drilling the axle holes on a vertical angle would help. That way, the wheels are riding on more of an edge and less on a flat surface.

I don't have a Marlin, but I have a Winchester 38/ 357. It's a great rifle, and it's a great cartridge for a lever rifle for all the reasons the others have mentioned. Like OhShoot, mine also competes for favorite rifle status. It's top two, for sure. I handled a Henry .357 in a local shop, and it seems like a fine rifle as well. You might want to consider them, also.

They have a good cheese steak there, too.

If you burn dry wood, of any type, you will have less creosote build up then if you burn wet wood of any type. Here in Tennessee, we're fortunate to have a lot of good hardwoods like oak and hickory. As a result, and for lack of a better term, a lot of folks are 'spoiled' on it. Out west, hardwood is a lot harder to find and most people burn some variant of pine or fir. The key is to let it dry. The stuff that was cut and split three weeks ago, pine or oak, ain't suitable to burn. Every type of wood, with the exception of some standing dead wood, needs to be cut, split, and stacked to dry for a minimum of six months down here, a year is better. Some type of hardwood need two or three years to really dry well. If the wood hisses or pops in the fire, it's not dry. I'd burn pine. I have a stove full of oak and some locust going right now, but if I had a pine tree to take down I'd split it, stack it, and burn it in a year or two without any worries.

I've not had the opportunity to shoot a Colt wheelgun, but I have held them. Seem mighty nice.

What year model Ranger? My Ranger was a '78 F-100. There are 'toolboxes' designed to fit behind the seat of a regular cab pickup. Something like that may help you. There are also overhead consoles that mount above the windshield.

Probably will before too long. Got the day off tomorrow.

Ah. No, it does not.

Got a picture of what a flat one looks like?

I found that online, I wasn't sure if the book would get any more specific or not. Thanks!

I'm trying to figure out when a model 37 was made. Does anyone have a book that lists the serial numbers? This one is 703XXX. Thanks!

I wouldn't buy anywhere that they would tell me what I could put on my own land, but that's just me.