xtriggerman

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Well, I suppose I can add one more thing here. Back in 79, I attended Pennsylvania Gunsmithing School and a good part of that 18 month full time school was all about building custom rifles from blanks. Once all the physical attributes of the custom rifle's owner were properly converted to stock dimensions such as trigger pull length, drop of the comb off the line of sight, butt plate pitch and drop, the final test was simple. The rifle's owner was instructed to stand at a ready rifle position with a visual target in mind, close his eyes while looking at the target. Shoulder the rifle in one swift move and open his eyes. If the rifle "fit" him, he should be pretty darn close to have overlaid cross hairs on the target. A comfortable cheek weld at line of sight becomes a bit more prevalent for Trap/Skeet/bird hunters since time on target is in seconds. Not so much for deer hunters. I prefer a low as you can go scope on a rifle in classic Weaver rings simply because they are light weight and can be quickly screwed off the bases with the back edge of a knife to get at irons. You can throw all sorts of money at QD rings but Weavers work on everything. If I were to mount them on big kickers, put a dab of basic rubber cement in the ring saddle before you tighten em down. I tested that out on a Win 70 375 H&H that would clover leaf factory ammo consistently out of a cold barrel and the scope never budged. 2 extreme examples of a high comb offering good line of "scope sight" check welds are here in these 2 I built years ago.

If I were to hunt with that 30-30, I would get a 2X7 32mm scope and set it up on Weaver rings. Use lows or medium height rings which ever get the objective as low over the barrel as you can get without touching. Reason for this set up is the 2 power will give you such a wide field of view (way better than most any 3X9) in most 30-30 ranges that it will be very easy to pick up anything as soon as you shoulder the gun. The low mounted scope enhances the fast check weld and target acquisition is a snap. Back when I had a store front gun shop, I used to sell Winchester 150 grain Hollow Points. The guys that used that round on deer loved the way it put deer down right where they stood. I think the 170 grain factory loads are just too slow and just don't have the shocking speed of the 150's.

I figured this guy John L. Casey who discovered this 206 year solar cycle was not BS-ing us when he said one of the first things you need to do is have at least a one year supply of food and be prepared to defend it with a firearm. Now THATS a Scientist we can trust!

    Sounds like you read this book...... A fascinating near death future description. http://www.amazon.com/There-No-Death-Extraordinary-Experience/dp/0966497058/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1457628494&sr=1-1&keywords=there+is+no+death

 Last week I happen to watch a documentary on News Max TV and they had this guy on there talking about Solar Cycles and how he now has seen the evidence that the 30 year deep winters cycle has begun. It was pretty fascinating to listen to how he came into this info by research from ice cores and a host of other sources.   Here is the opening description to his book "Dark Winter"   "Climate change has been a perplexing problem for years. In Dark Winter, author John L. Casey, a former White House national space policy advisor, NASA headquarters consultant, and space shuttle engineer tells the truth about ominous changes taking place in the climate and the Sun. Casey’s research into the Sun’s activity, which began almost a decade ago, resulted in discovery of a solar cycle that is now reversing from its global warming phase to that of dangerous global cooling for the next thirty years or more. This new cold climate will dramatically impact the world’s citizens. In Dark Winter, he provides evidence of the following: • The end of global warming • The beginning of a “solar hibernation,” a historic reduction in the energy output of the Sun • A long-term drop in Earth’s temperatures • The start of the next climate change to decades of dangerously cold weather • The high probability of record earthquakes and volcanic eruptions  "    Im glad I brought my Fisher snow plow and tire chains down from the North country when we moved a while back :) 

Personaly, I would select the Hi Power over a Star. The Star has a barrel bushing that in many cases adds to more lateral barrel movment making larger paper groups. J Browning eliminated the barrel bushing on the P35 design and that in its self improves the accuracy of the weapon to a degree. My first handgun was a HP back in 1981 But I sold that long ago. Recently, I could not pass up this fake FN HP made by FEG for just over $300 OTD. Its surface finish is not exactly Browning quality but tight in all the important areas, making a great shooter. IMO, the recently imported FEG guns on GB are one of the best bang for the buck buys right now. Here's my Stamped FN FEG with after market grips compared to a K40. [URL=http://s635.photobucket.com/user/xtriggerman/media/HANDGUNS/P1050894_zpsvpbqq8y6.jpg.html][/URL]

Well, If I were to go to the trouble of sending out a bolt for a top quality coating, it would have to be the NP3. The specs on this treatment are top notch. Im not sure why your friend would want to put TN coating on his bolt head. Maybe it will clean up easier? Anyway here's the link to think about. https://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/np3-plus/

Well, yer right. as far as the weight goes but I think I have all the other issues licked with my custom SKS build that includes multi position adjustable gas, fined barrel, QD but stocks and forends & VZ58 magazines. Just wish the firing pin hole was a bit smaller but so far no issues with it. [URL=http://s635.photobucket.com/user/xtriggerman/media/Hybrid%20XTM1C/P1050576.jpg.html][/URL]

There is a "just right" amount of drag a bolt head should have moving in and out of the carrier. The carrier gas expansion cylinder walls can have defects that will create problems with the smallest amount of fouling. I am not an advocate of lubing this problem away since it is more or less a temporary fix. If lubing anything inside an automatic, it should be with a good dry lube. My go to there is Ezox. When a carrier  has its exhaust holes drilled in, many times the ensuing bur that it produces on the cylinder wall never gets completely honed out along with cylinder wall anomalies such as fine grooves that go all the way around the cylinder. These "choppy" cylinder walls have a way of eating gas rings and collecting fouling giving you a stickier and stickier bolt head movement with rounds fired.     Also I will mention, rings are not all the same in quality either. Their sealing face should be square and very smooth (not the case with many vendors) . With use, good rings will pick up a near chrome like burnish on their contact face. Its unfortunate their are so many vendors with slipping QC issues but its all about sales. Good Luck! Oddly, Luck has a lot to do with it!

Yes, the first place to start is just a good cleaning and be sure the firing pin is moving freely and the rear of the firing pin is not pinched by bolt body pean over since the hammer can beat the bolt up a bit where it hits the back of the firing pin. Also a major defect in the 57 is the fact the receiver is aluminum. If the gun has had a lot of rounds fired, its not uncommon for the bolt to have excessive head space. Some of the 57's have been known to crack the receiver completely in half directly to the left and right of the recoil shoulder of the receiver. Its too bad they did not make the 57 out of steel as the 57M (22 mag). I have had several 57M's and hold them in high regard especially after my 57M out shot my brothers new Henry 22mag lever. Not by much, but enough to brag about...LOL!