xtriggerman

Comparing short barrel 22LR & 22Mag velocities has little to do with the real advantage of the mag over the LR. The slightly better velocity of over 1000 fps and mostly the jacketed bullet over lead makes a definite difference. About 10 years ago the State Prison where I worked at needed to replace the bullet resistant glass surrounding the control room that runs the main sally port into the inner prison grounds. When the job was done we ended up with a few sections of this 1" thick lexan type of clear material. The range officer invited us to bring in anything under the sun to hit it with. And we did. 50 BMG to 22's. As pistol rounds go, all failed to penetrate the "glass". The big 45 ACP's would bounce off right back at the shooting line. 357's would embed into it. 22LR would put a slight burn mark on it while the jacketed 22 mag embedded like the 357. And that was with FMJ or HP mags. That little copper jacket makes the difference when penetrating a hard substance. Im sure you guys have shot steel with 22LR and noticed all the liquid lead splash a 22LR makes on a plate. That jacket keeps the lead from liquefying on hard impact for just long enough to get a deeper bite of the target. Back in the 80's I tested the Davis Derringers on phone book for penetration and hands down, the mag was clearly the winner over the LR in the same derringer. Im not getting rid of any of my 22 mags! An old 5 screw Taurus I bored out to mag. And my latest GS acquisition 8 shot 941

Those are both great quality guns and well worth the 2-300 you have mentioned simply from a craftsmanship stand point. Down side is the 32ACP round. More or less a novelty plinker in a +P carry world.

None of the MPA's had front sights. In place of that, they had a heavy steel picatinny rail on the receiver. Since the last picture, I put an alloy weaver rail on top in case I ever wanted to put a dot scope on. The AKM forend is hollow and ripe for an internal laser ..... some day.

The original configuration of the MPA 971 The 2 huge problems with the original Masterpiece Arms 971 is with out the mag, it weighs in at over 10 lbs and MPA wanted to use the FAL hammer so they had to off set the MAC 11 upper from the FAL lower. As pictured here with the upper adapter in place. Most of that block of steel in front of the sight is solid steel. This makes the FAL rear sight useless so they never made the gun with a front sight. I use a modifyed AR hammer in a DSA alloy lower so I could center the FAL FCG under the MAC 11 reciever tube. The MPA adapter that joins the upper to the lower weighs over 2 lbs alone. I cut over 1 lb of steel from it and welded it to the upper. The rear section of the adapter was solid steel so I milled it out so the bolt assembly could be pulled straight out from the rear just as the FAL bolt. I made a alloy plug with a steel recoil core so the bolt wouldnt beat the plug into a mushroom. The original mag release worked backwards. You had to pull back on it to release the mag. I fixed that to forward pressure. I swapped out the steel FAL lower for a DSA alloy lower and that was nearly a 1 lb savings. This is one handy carbine now and is QD take down. The shroud is a cut down suomi unit that holds the handguards on by way of the detent retained flash suppressor pictured. The gun now wieghs 7.75 lbs with no mag and it has nice open sights. The target is 30 rds of wolf 9mm FMJ @ 25 yards. In the end testing, the stick mag proved to be unreliable. There just is not enough distance between the chamber mouth and magazine as was the case in the Sumoi. Altho a shorter 20rd mag may have enough spring strength to kick the rounds up to chamber level, I never did cut one down.....yet.

Are you sand bagging the gun on a rock solid table? Keep in mind, an over & under 30-06 will more than likely not be a great group shooter since the barrels are normally at least joined near the muzzle, that raises hell with holding consistent barrel harmonics by way of barrel heat expansion and other wise. If you can hold a 4" 5 shot group at 100, Id say you pretty much maxed out the design abilities of the gun. Especially if you are using both barrels alternatively for the 100 yard group. Expensive double barrel shotguns like a Win 21 get a lot of shop time having the barrels bent to the point of aim before soldering them together. Imagine how critical the barrel join must be on rifle barrels for matching point of aim since virtually all rifle barrels will have some slight bend in them once taper turned.

oops, your right! Got my models wrong. You can 65 a 64 but not the next digit up. brain fart.....

Thanks for the warm welcome here at TGO. Reading the post's here shows a decent batch of folks. Hope to pony up the $$ for a benefactor spot soon.

I like the 3" best on a wheel carry. That 65 is very nice. Plus, you can have it "66-ed"  by simply ream & polish the cylinder with the 357 reamer. Still a 38 with a secret. A 66 in a 3" is huge money these days.

One of these days I would like to design and make an aluminum rail mount that goes on with a snap down lever that would tighten around the flash suppressor in addition to the bayo lug. This would be intended for flashlight/laser combo rails. Had this in my head for 20 years and now that I'm retired, it might even get made!

Yes, welcome to this still Free state, fellow North Eastern refugee!

Good Lord.... a cut early Winchester !  :( most of the parts you need are here also http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/USMilitary-33541/Rifles-42386/Enfield1917-40098/PartsList-36103.htm

 Hi folks, I moved my family of 4 here (Crossville area) from upstate NY. I retired from the NYS Dept of Corrections as a 25 year Correction Officer and I can tell you first hand big city population centers are super destructive to our conservative principals. After living here in TN for 1.5 years, Its incredible how many fees and taxes Liberals are more than willing to force out of the working class.   I also had a full service store front Gunsmithing business from 82-96. After graduating from Pennsylvania Gunsmith School 79-81, I worked at Auto Ordnance West Hurley as the shop gunsmith. Back then George Numrich of Numrich Arms Co. owned AO. He decided to build 1911A1's at AO and I was tasked to get the production line up and running. That was probably the most fun job I ever had. Every Friday, I would just test fire the week's 1911 production guns and make any necessary adjustments. Once we ran out of our large stock of GI parts for the production, the guns went down hill fast with garbage market parts and I ultimately quit. George wanted silk out of sow's ear parts & I was not going to take the weight for the returns that I was "forced" to send out. I'm glad Kahr bought AO out years ago.   Any way, I hope to get back into some gunsmithing maybe by the end of the year. I enjoy making alterations that no one else has done such as my SKS FAL hybrid guns just to name one. Google xtriggerman SKS FAL and pull up the pics link. One of a kinds are the most fun.  I can't tell you guys how happy I am to be a new Tennessean. All the folks I'v met here have been real decent....... so far, so good!  Walt

I just took my test mag apart to remind myself on how its done. As long as you don't have the early buttoned action hold open magazine, you push the fake cartridge side of the follower down in with your finger while you pry out the opposite side with a small slightly hooked small screwdriver type tip. You will see this is the only way to clear the retaining lips. Reassemble the same way except get the rear of the follower in first. Pops in a lot easier than coming out.

Iv read that it can start as early as 2-300 rounds. Just why Glock would put a plating on these parts is not understood from what little iv read. The copper bonding agent will most certainly wear off in short order as I didn't notice any copper at all on my friend's 40. To be honest, this wear shouldn't have any effect on the functional reliability on which the Glock's are praised for. But as far as target grouping accuracy goes, frame to slide tolerances plays a major roll and I would have to say a Glock with a lot of rds fired threw it would more than likely be less accurate do to a some what loser slide. Now I'm talking sandbag bench shooting. That's where true accuracy can be nailed down. Heres the best pic of the issue Iv seen. [URL=http://s635.photobucket.com/user/xtriggerman/media/IMG_1508b_zpsbh346zqa.jpg.html][/URL]

A quick google check comes up with the 4 slide guides are plated metal tabs and its apparently normal for the plating to shear off showing the copper and metal under the plating.  Some other neat pictures of cracked plastic all around the forward slide tabs.

I can relate one story of interest. I am a trained gunsmith and a number of years ago a guy (Part time cop) I personaly knew had shown me his Glock 40 with very visable metal filings in the frame slide guides. I could clearly see the metal was coming off the bottom edges of the 4 slide guides. I told him there was nothing I could do about it that maybe a better lube might help. He was still pretty upset about it since his other Glock had the same problem so he mailed the worst one off to Glock uncleaned. Glock sent it back cleaned up and said that the wear was "normal".   I was never a fan of those slide retaining tabs in the Glock since they are the complete opposite of what you find in a 1911 or full rail design of many other pistols. Even the shorter aluminum slide rails of a Beretta 92 will wear over time giving you more barrel play.   Maybe, Glock updated the design? I don't know. How many gens are there now, 4? I always thought they were good service guns but those filings were so bad, you could swipe em off onto your finger.   I'll stick to my full rail pistols. Heavier, yes but they don't eat themselves. 

Good find. They are neat little guns with the Martini type action with a nice auto eject. But I do have to warn you, the firing pins have been known to break at a weak point where they go from wide to narrow. Good thing is Numrich still has them for 18 bucks

I USED to think general anesthesia was no big deal since I had it a few times in my 56 years with no issues. That all changed a couple months ago when I went under for a basic Prostate TURP operation. It was supposed to be one hospital night stay and home. Instead of going home the next day, I find out my kidney's had decided to shut down. The only fix for that was an arterial catheter they shoved into me about 3" from my groin under a Local. That was still felt quite well...... Then that catheter kept clotting on the blood dialysis machine so after a few more try's to no avail, they pulled that one out and put in a longer 21 cm long catheter in on the opposite side of the groin. Its not pleasant feeling a pair of rubber pipes being shoved up into your leg artery off the end of a wire to get them in place. That one was supposed to give me a full 3 hours of blood cleaning on dialysis also but no.... clots and more clots cut the treatment once again to just an hour. By then, Im so swollen, they are having trouble getting blood samples out of me. Creatine serum was up to 14 ( should be under 2) and BUN up to 68 from a normal 20. I was dying at that point from blood poisoning. The next move was to put a permanent arterial catheter in my neck but THANK GOD !!! the dialysis nurse figured out a chemical procedure that worked in clearing the clotting in the groin catheter.  This all took 15 days and I lost 16 lbs in those 15 days. I was a normal 200 lb guy that never smoked and drank moderately if at all with no issues what so ever. Not even a aspirin pill !  Come to find out, having a Kidney shut down is not unheard of after a General and more common than any Dr. is willing to talk about. Whats more, the chances of permanent memory loss skyrockets from General Anesthesia as a person gets into their 70's and its a given problem in their 80's. Good thing I had this prostate issue fixed now since the memory is bad enough as it is!    Sorry to rain on the parade here but there is always another side to the coin. 

You said "old" Winchester. If you mean the model 94 with a stamped follower, I would not be surprised if it had feeding issues with the mags. Those guns were notorious for fail to feed issues in the full length cartridges let alone the much shorter 44mag/special. Replacement followers were in such demand back in the day Winchester was finally forced to spend the big bucks for a decent cast steel follower. The 94AE's were far better 44's due to the better follower when it came to feeding the shorter cartridges.    The old stamped followers were pretty hard and could crack down by the pivot pin hole. So if its jamming at all, don't lever force it. Strictly use what it likes.

Well, this is probably the most thought of thing a prospective gunsmith "might think" he needs off the get go. When I went to gunsmith school in 1979, none of the students worked on any guns for the first couple of months. What we did do in that time was to learn how to properly use hand tools and machines to first make a 2" machinist square. The way they checked your work for flat is dribble talcum powder on the file cut flats of the square and see if it all scraped off with a straight edge and blocked out all the light from the ceiling lights once it had an edge placed on its edge. Only then did we move to making gunsmith tools like barrel vise & bushings and other things lick action wrenches and things like spring compressors. A number of people couldn't get the square right and they were asked to leave.   The point being you have to have a true mechanical talent or else you will damage more things than you improve. One good place to start is get your self some knife kits that need to have wood handles fit to the tang, drilled, peened and hand filed, sanded and finished smooth with the tang. Sounds silly, but a lot of gunsmithing skill is used to make a perfect factory smooth finished knife handle.   Maybe you have all ready figured this all out, and that makes a great start. As for clunker work guns, I see em at gun shows time from time and some gun shops have them in the back if you ask.   Good Luck!

Iv had 4 VW TDI's in the past and they were decent cars. I will not buy any new VW's since the screwing I got over the 05 Passat TDI wagon I had. VW had put a very cheesy balancer shaft drive chain in the engines that would pretty much disintegrate by 120K. I had 87K on mine and they would not honor a upgrade to their "new" GEAR driven balancer. They completely discontinued the old bicycle type chain system. The cost of installing the new parts was about 4K. Now the engine was running fine when I sold it and as far as a running 2 L Pump Duce engine 5spd auto trans, it was pretty good with 36 mpg highway but VW lost me as a customer for good at that point. The older ALH engines I had were decent engines but the Auto trans were weak in those cars and there again they carry a 4K replacement charge. So the older ALH engine (99-03) with a 5 speed manual is a good bang around hi mileage car.   Now we only have a 05 2.8L Diesel Jeep liberty. Oddly the new Chevy half ton trucks are using the same 2.8 Italian Motorini engine although updated to some degree. My wife Loves the Jeep. It has a 5 speed Auto and I upgraded both the trans and engine modules with Green Diesel Engineering programs. After a few other minor upgrades, its a pretty good little 4X. It gets 27-28 mpg solidly running 70-75 out here on I-40. If Motorini put timing chains in these instead of belts, you would really have some thing. That's why I put both my kids into Hyundai's. Over 35 mpg's and NO TIMING BELTS !!!  

     Yeah, your probably right and I toyed with the idea of getting a License once but for what little use it would get the ambition never materialized. If I did go that route, I think I would look at those Stryker 10 meter mobile sets. With 70 watts PEP in their smaller mobile sets (about $300), that would be plenty for a home base set with a 110V to 12v regulated power supply converter (I already have). Reason being, When things get ugly, 12v is the way to go. You can always hump up a 12v system from junk parts. To up convert 110v from a 12v battery set, you get a pretty fast drain unless you have a dedicated battery bank of a proper size. 12v should always be your fall back power source.   Hospitals are a funny thing, they fix you up only to kill you with out of network bills!  Hopefully, I'll get something wired up by the end of they year. 

This is a great post to get me thinking about a radio again. As with many folks who remember the CB era of the seventies, that's about all I know at this point. The last "upgrade" I had from that entry level of communication was a home based "tuned" Super Star 3900 SSB export radio with a roof mounted whip antenna. Once I had a good skip on SSB from NY to Mississippi. I didn't use it much but liked the fact that I could listen in on a lot and also get out of state regularly if need be. Having the CB frequency available was nice for covering local mobiles. So as being low on the knowledge scale as I am, I think I will still opt for a new Galaxy DX SSB/AM/CB mobile unit and set it up as before with a good antenna as high as I can mount it. The hard part is finding some one who I can trust to upgrade the internals to perform as well as it can in the coming SHTF situations. Also part of all this effort is making a faraday cage that can be simply built around the disconnected small unit to guard it from EMP effects. Im sure there are smarter ways to go about all this as posted above but this was an easy thing to absorb for the old breaker 19 days....mentality! Otherwise I would need a blanket and a fire as back up also :)

I saved your number for the May outing. I'll call you at the beginning of May for sure. Thanks for posting this.

Shoot! I just remembered I have to be in NY on the 9th. Any other future dates? maybe