xtriggerman

"Letting a kid get ahold of a loaded gun, and have it turn into a homicide is a special kind of stupid." I agree and as for stupid stats, lets start with 64,223,958 blue state votes. Not that Trump votes are immune for stupid but the pool of stupid in the country has a lot of company. Only 11 states are now CC and most all have just recently fallen into that category. I can only hope to be pleasantly surprised if those 11 states can maintain the same annual number of public/private accidental handgun shootings as they were under HCP rules as the years roll by.

I don't think Constitutional carry is a good idea. Last year I went threw the HCP course and found it a very good idea for every one there including me! and I have had a NY HCP for 35 years and a 25 year retired State Corrections officer to boot. What the MOST important area here in TN that needs changing is the exoneration from civil court if one is found justified in a shooting by the DA. You guys complain about the cost of a HCP and true, it could certainly be less but consider that to mount a Legal defense in court you can add another digit to the $300 HCP cost just to get things started. Secondly, if you think you are doing society a favor in allowing every Tom, Dick and Harriet a favor by calling for essentially a DL carry, you are sadly mistaken. I had a full service Gun Shop for 14 years and I cant tell you how many times I was covered by some nit wit with his action closed gun while I stood behind the gun counter. Today was a funeral for my wife's friends, 3 year old grandson. That boy was fatally shot in the neck by his 10 year old brother that found Dad's hand gun. This past summer, the same thing happened in the Crossville Verizon parking lot when a 5 year old fatally shot his 3 year brother in the car while Mom was in the store. NEVER, EVER think less or no training in gun handling is a good idea. Personally I would make the 8 hour permit course tougher in the safe handling and child proof storage of firearms. Furthermore, I would be more than happy to pony up a $300 life time HCP as long as that money was used to mandate the NRA Eddy Eagle gun safety program for grade school kids. I Love my 2nd A rights but never think that loaded guns and training are separate issues.

Machetes and spears have all ways worked for them in the past......... low maintenance.

That horse tread mill is about as cool as it gets!

The trick to a good D&T on that is to use a pair of 8x40's on the rear of the mount where you have the thick part of the receiver and then 6x48's on the forward thin part. Once the forward 6x48 screws are in place tight, carefully grind them to match the inner surface of the receiver ceiling. The bulk of the recoil must be on the long rear 8x40's since the forward 6x48's don't have enough threads in the game to do much more than a alignment role. Also, keep your optic light and you will never have an issue.

Dolo S ^ plus one. I would like to add that to check the primary sear engagement, Open up the action and very carefully watch the hammer as you dry fire the hammer. The hammer must "over cock" slightly before it is released from the trigger. If infact it is over cocking with the first stage trigger pull, I would go to the disconnector as mentioned above and file some material off the bottom front where it presses against the top of the trigger. Doing this, will allow for more trigger to hammer sear alignment "before" the disconnector releases the hammer into the ready to fire position. This is a very common FCG adjustment in adjusting the stock triggers. Just go little by little or if you take too muck off the disconnector, the trigger will not return to fire ready position after a trigger firing.

I have tooling for the 12g Win Choke II, Browning Invector , Moss Accu II etc, etc. tubes if that's of any interest. Minimum Barrel Diam at muzzle must be .855

My papered business days are over. I had a full service Gunsmith/retail business back in 82-96. I was nearly back into one this past year with all the TN requirements done. I was just about ready to do the 07 FFL until I learned about the BO inspired "new" ITAR permit requirement for gunsmithing activity. The ANNUAL permit costs $2,250 with an additional $100 for a mandated Gov wire transfer of those funds. Im retired now and don't need this political BS. So I get around this as so many here in the Great State of TN with a little creative advertising. My card is self explanatory. I once tried to patent a free floating, adjustable gas system for AK's and other similar gas operated systems but the USPTO threw up one rejection after another until I was tired of the "moving target" of specific regs. I lost a lot of $$$$ there. Anyway I most enjoy going where most gunsmiths rarely venture like one of my franken XT guns like this SKS with a plethora of QD furniture like the built in flood light & red laser hand guard and the QD buttstock that hides a 5 rd mag inside. And uses outstanding VZ58 mags w/ holdopen intact. And a newly designed Left hand bolt handle, finned barrel, adjustable gas, ect,ect. Just fun stuff...

Yeah, I still have the reline job to do. A number of other cool jobs got in the way, Like the Mossberg Brownie remanufacture and recently converting a Savage 1907 32 to the 380 version. Last night I had to make a firing pin for a Spanish Vest pocket 25 Auto. Never a dull moment! I sure would like to see the Aguila ammo on the shelves but at who knows what pricing when it eventually hits.... Stay tuned, that barrel reline will get done sooner or later.

These Ranger guns were made by Hopkins & Allen. The give away is the cylinder pin release. This style of pin release was only used by H&A.

I use Diesel. Gasoline is made to go bad and with todays EPA emissions, the carb's are very sensitive to gasoline turning into snot. Stabil works to a degree but is only a temp band aid especially on ethanol gas. The only way to own a gas job that wont see much use is you must drain the carb completely inbetween uses. The other option is get the LP or NG conversion. Im sticking with my 8K oil hammer.

My son just bought this 32 at the Knoxville GS and come to find out, the grip safety has an arm that engages the rear of the firing pin spring, that was gone, snapped off at some point in time. Well, what to do. The 7.65 grip safeties appear to be not an easy find. So after thinking about the way this grip safety is designed to work, I thought a slight remanufacture of the design was in order so I could use the broken grip safety as is.....kinda. First you have to know how an Ortgies works. The grip Safety does not work like an active 1911 type. If the gun is chambered, you need to depress the take down button to activate (pop out) the grip safety. I just don't like that function in the first place. So I modified the system to work exactly like a 1911 style grip safety with the additional function that any time the safety is out as in out of your grip, the slide will be locked in place "in battery". This gun must be griped to unlock the slide and this simultaneously takes the safety off. A very nice upgrade. Here is how its done. In this shot a few mods are shown. The area that shows 2 fresh angled cuts used to have a thick retaining lip there that would capture the take down button and hold the grip safety in the forward position. Those fresh cuts allow the take down button to protrude from the side of the frame by about .050 while the grip safety is in the out position. Here are the mods to the mag catch. Powering it from a different position since the "new" grip safety spring takes up the spring pocket that was the original mag catch spring position. Here the only mod to the take down button is to mill out the pictured corners so the flat of the button can be allowed to enter the slide body rail. Here you can see a notch that is about .045 deep in the slide rail. And an additional .045 slot that was milled with a dull cutter I had. It forced a raised line in the slide finger grooves. Finally the completed Ortgies 32 that now has a far more practical grip safety as they were latter developed in history. Now the grip safety spring out any time its out of your hand and once you squeeze the grip in to fire, it retracts the take down button automatically from the locked slide position. The Locked slide function is actually a necessity so the slide can not damage the firing pin if it was ever pulled back some how with the safety out. Back in gun school, a friend had bought a newly released HK P7 squeeze cocker 9mm. That was a fool proof safety shooter and this new remake reminds me of that ol HK.

Sorry for the double post. I had some Windows 7 page error freezes and bingo a dbl post.

The Iver Johnson TP22 is a scaled down copy of the Walther PPK. The slide is removed in exactly the same way as the Walther. Ironically, the Walther version of the TP22 is a piece of junk! The slide can easily cut the top of your hand when fired and for some ridiculous reason the feed angle of the rounds in the Walther pre dispose it to FTF off fully loaded mags. What a big bucks abortion. The TP's run high 2 to maybe 300. The nickel ones are hard to find since they didn't make many due to the fact they had trouble getting the nickel to stick to the cast parts. The Taurus is a rare old one that compared to a newer model 941 8 shot magnum, it shows as a lighter by 4 oz, nice shooter despite an extra inch of barrel. As far as a small carry 22, I much prefer a magnum unless you want to do a lot of shooting, the LR is more practical but with that said, an LR in that usage would get kicked up in size a bit to a Auto such as a Ruger, Buckmark or like the old High Standard lightweight I have pictured. Oh, Im only 5'8 with normal medium sized hands. This sports an aluminum barrel I lined with a redman liner and Bentz chamber. This is a one hole-er shooter!

I used to be a dealer back in the 80's 90's and sold a number of these Iver Johnson TP22's They are about the best 22 pocket gun I can think of since they have an outstanding firing pin block for chamber carry. As reliable as it gets. A wheel gun I really like is an old Taurus 22 I bore out to mag. Its a scaled down 5 screw J frame Smith in most ways.

Hmmm, was the barrel & choke reblued? If it was silver soldered, it would have to be reblued to look that good. Silver solder will discolor the hell out of a blue job like you have there. Silver solder doesn't flow until about 2000F about orange hot. If he used Hi Force 44 solder, You need a perfect metal to metal fit and tin both parts before fitting them. Hi Force only needs 450F to flow so it leaves the blueing pretty much alone. Good Luck with it

I thought some folks would get a kick out seeing an old parts gun become a viable pocket derringer. The Brownie was missing the lock, grip panel and ejecting pin so it was game for a serious upgrade. I found an EIG E16 barrel assembly at a local toy show for 20 bucks. The EIG is an Italian clone of the Brownie that was made for a short time in the 80's. The EIG has a physical extractor rather than the loose pin the Brownie stores in a hole at the top of the frame. Anyway, The Brownie is a very weak design with very thin diameter lock pivot pin and frame/barrel joint pin. The EIG is built for only standard vel 22LR ammo and that is pushing it! My new lock design would incorporate a third lock lug that seats behind the frame recoil face. This locks the barrel with the frame directly taking most all of the recoil forces off the lock pivot pin. I start out with a piece of 4140 steel and a plan. Here is a comparison of the new lock to the original EIG lock. I use a spring and plunger to power the lock rather tham a leaf of the Brownie that was missing also. Here a nice tight fit. An issue that both the Brownie and EIG had was that once the gun is loaded & locked up, the firing pin is constantly pressing against one of the cartridge rims with the striker spring. I was not going to pocket a gun like that so I designed a firing pin blocking button. To activate the block, you simply depress the trigger about an eight of an inch and press in the frame mounted button and then let up on the trigger. This holds the firing pin off the rims until you want to fire, you just squeeze the trigger as you normaly would and the button pops out via its own spring as the trigger moves rear ward. here is the new milled slot. I also added a side mounted spring and ball detent in the rear of the lock to help keep the lock in the locked up position as seen here.... some test firing The Brownie has a poor grip design that normally ends up with the grip panels breaking away from the top frame plate that ultimately makes the owner over tighten the grip screw, cracking the wood around the screw escutcheon. So I milled the top side plates with a inverted radius. I used an old pair of Luger grip panels for wood donors. Safety button on Safety button off Hiding under a FN HP forgery To harden a simple 4140 part like this lock I set up a MAP gas can burning and heat the lock red until a magnet will not stick to the part then quench in ATF. This makes the lock much harder than in the raw but yet not brittle. 4140 is great stuff! Hope you enjoyed this project! I sure did.

Yup, on the same page with yah! about 8 years ago I bought these 2 2.5" bore ends off Ebay for just that idea. I never made up a steady rest to bore them to beer can diam. One of these days.............

If you have an FFL hook up, there are a bunch on Gunbroker starting at about 60 plus shipping. Making an anodized one silver is easily done with a sandblaster. Glass beads with over 100 psi at the blast gun should give you a nice smooth satin finish. I think that would be the most direct way to end up with what you want. Good Luck on the build!

Can you find the same crack on the out side of the receiver ring? The early Mosins had a bad reputation for weak receivers that normaly ended up as head space issues. You might have one that's too hard.

I have a snapped one in my junk drawer. Yeah your probably right about it being soft if it bent forward from stopping the bolts forward momentum. Call PSA and they may well already know of the bad batch and just send you out a new one.

Strange, it comes up on my PC. I'll move it as a jpeg

Some thing not mentioned is benching the gun. Get the gun on a good solid table rest, lock it in as firmly as is comfortable and see what the gun is actually capable of. Eliminating shooter error is a great place to start with any new gun. It will put all your off hand shooting in an entirely different perspective. The amount of side to side / up and down in battery barrel movement is openly exposed in bench resting some groups. This is also the least expensive way to determine the most accurate ammo to use. Oddly, a lot of handgun shooters completely ignore this SOP of the riflemen.

On a good note, I heard over 4000 kids participated in the Eddy Eagle program here in Cumberland county. Parents were surprised to hear their kids singing the Eddy Eagle jingle when they got home from school. Only hope it continues and expands. http://ghoward9.wixsite.com/ccsheriffs/single-post/2016/02/15/Cumberland-County-Sheriffs-Office-to-Offer-Eddie-Eagle-Gun-Safety-Program