xtriggerman

The guy who owns Grizzly is a long time bench shooter and specifically had the Asian manufacturer (my Lathe is from Taiwan) to build "Gunsmith" specific Lathes. I would Love to upgrade to one but my old Griz is still running fine (new 220v motor about 10 years ago). I thought about that same machine before I bought the $1000 bench top mill. The size of the quill diam on the drill is a required spec for accurate milling. The combo machine could be used to thread/chamber barrels on center, mill cooling fins on barrels and lock the carriage for dove tailing barrels & pistol slides and a variety of fine milling. I would still like to have one of those..... just for its versatility on small jobs. Honey do list is syphoning off too much scratch right now but I'm months away from SS checks

Iv been using Grizzly machines in my shop for 30 some years. I find them pretty decent and Grizzly has a good parts dept for about any of their machines in case something breaks. Just keep in mind, the more you spend obviously, you'll find a more heavy duty unit. I wouldn't hesitate buying from them. https://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(drillpress)

I like the idea of paperless handguns & no SN so I bough a pair of the frames off the red back ground from here https://www.gunbroker.com/All/search?Keywords=1911 frame stainless Mated top end sets from here https://everygunpart.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?cat=31&q=1911++ And ended up with these. Seems all the good deal go fast so you need to look just before a holiday sale when they will Email you their holiday sale of usualy 20% off & free shipping. Keep in mind the stainless 80 % frames need integral ramped barrels. most part sets come with the old style non ramped barrels. But Ebay can fix that or any other parts seller. I milled the frame rails on a small bench top mill and used a AO frame clamped over the 80% one to drill the hammer & sear holes as a pattern guide. All pretty easy, but then I set up the 1911A1 production line at Auto Ordnance back in 81 and had the fun filled Fridays of test firing the week's 1911 production run in the test tank. 4000 pistols latter, I quit.

I went to the show yesterday. There were a lot of empty tables in the back and to the right. 400 rented would be a stretch IMO. I was looking for a particular hand gun and glancing all of them over, it took me exactly 1/2 hr to go threw the entire show. Then 15 more minutes to figure out that no one there had any 38-40 ammo for sale. A lot of the "tactical" AR stuff and even the bolt on over handgun sub gun shell accessories. To bad Chilhowie shut down. I think I liked that one better for some reason.

That's not really a big deal to fix. In gunsmithing school, welding on custom handles is more or less 101. The biggest part of it is to have a dead shank that screws into the inner hollow of the bolt nice and snug for a good cold sink transfer. Wrap the shank end sticking out with a wet rag and the bolt body with the same. Relief groove the handle base and jig it where it needs to be & mig weld it. Mill & lathe turn off the excess weld. Some may heat treat the finished unit just to stress releave the weld a bit but its debatable weather a 400 ish F degree heat treat is going to kill much brittleness in the weld joint. The only real 100 percent way is to re harden the entire bolt by turning it some 1500 %F , quench and then heat treat. This will uniform the bolt again to the desired Rockwell C of a bolt body. If its a play gun, I would skip the big rehardening bit. But a hunt trip gun, that or a new bolt. A new Remington bolt should head space out good unless the custom outfit turned the receiver barrel shoulder face true-er. For that matter any one with a dial caliper can check head space in 20 minutes pretty easy. Good Luck with it.

One thing that needs mention when it comes to the sub compacts is with the availability of Lehigh bullets and now even Black hills makes a Honey Badger bullet similar to the Lehigh all copper bullets. The lehighs have a wide variety of reloading bullets at Midway or is loaded by Underwood. The all copper bullets are pretty much a revolutionary step in mouse gun SD. I was never one to suggest 32 ACP as a SD gun and cringed a bit with a 380 in that roll but these new bullets are game changers. Those small calibers simply don't have the moxy needed for violent tissue damage in many cases. A hollow point needs to expand and that expansion comes at a price of used bullet energy when theres little to be had in the first place. Imagine how much energy it would take you to put a 32 or 380 HP round in a hand press and squash it into a perfect mushroom. The energy you just used in the process is entirely wasted in effecting deeper penetration or cavity damage. The scalloped cuts on the all copper bullets lose none of their energy by necessitating a metal reconfiguration. The result is far more tissue damage and penetration. The youtube vidios all prove this out. I remember an all copper bullet that was tested in handgun defensive loads in a Gun Digest I have from the late 60's. It was of a pointed conical design and it was pretty devastating in the test media of the day. Problem was, those bullets were hand made on non CNC machines and simply were not cost effective for the market. That's all changed today. In light of all this, I'm waiting for my NAA 32 to come in so it can ride in a cell phone pouch I have. It will just fit with maybe a spare mag. Thats my when I have pants on gun without ever fooling with it on and off. A security clip snaps on and off the belt on the leather cell pouch. I bought some 115g Lehigh bullets to load in my serious K40 Kahr when on treks.

Yeah, I'm with you guys! I think the Golden Mountie was the closest to my chop job but have you seen what they are asking for one IF you can find one? Gezzzz....

I really appreciate being retired when I have time to slap various parts together and save a fine old gun from the parts bin, a true labor of love. In this particular case, I spotted this marked "ORIGINAL GOLDEN 39A" parts set at everygunpart.com about a year ago and jumped on it. I thought it weird that to make this a non gun, all they did was cut the tangs off the lower receiver half. Who am I to argue what constitutes a transferable frame . The set was also missing the butt stock, bolt assembly and inner mag tube but figured those can all be found eventual. As for the cut up frame, Numrich had Marlin 1897 straight grip frames (no FFL) so I got one and integrated it into the 39a upper. Straightened out the curved lever to match the straight tang and I was off to building a 39 that would be configured like an old world gun. I shortened the fat forend by 3" and put it on a disc grinder diet. Shortened the barrel to 17" and put 1/2x28 threads on it in case I ever spring for a can. The butt stock is an unknown from Ebay that is an odd ball since it was hollow between the tang cuts and was made with a threw bolt instead of tang screw attachment. No idea what it came off of but it was a bit over sized to the Marlin tangs so it inletted good and fits pretty good. Luckily, the microgroove bore was mint end to end and cut down with the lite butt stock this puppy weighs in at exactly 5 lbs. The full size 39A I have next to it is 7.5 lbs as you see it. A tank by comparison. Every 39 I ever target shot, shot very well with most any ammo. The group you see is 40' with that cheap Federal 550 pack of hi vels Walmart used to sell for $17.99 before the great ammo drought of a few years back. That stuff is not prime target ammo but the microgrooves like it. After I dialed it in at center, the 2" red dot has 2 mag loads in it totaling 24 shots.

The links are OEM RPD link belts. They are direct descendants in design of the MG42 belts. In this case I modified the 100 round drum hook up to take M249 saw nut bags as you see it. They comfortably hold 75 rds of 7.62x39. The drums are super clanky with the belted rounds in them and worse with some of the 100 belt hanging out of the gun. The saw bags are whisper quiet no matter how much belt is left in there. Here I welded new rails to accept the clip in saw bags. Way better on/off than of the original drum hook up.

The MG42 is a pretty cool piece. In the build, at least theres no piston arrangement to deal with. Im not familiar with building any of those. I took the easy way out and did an RPD / semi DSA rec. with a number of my own mods. Best thing to do is read everything here at the Guild on them if you haven't all ready. http://www.weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?board=25.0 If it wasn't for the crematory, I'd have then put this in the box with me... LOL

Update. Nice day to shoot! So this is Tula FMJ play ammo run threw the Mec Gar 15 round mag. Bottom is 10 yards off hand 10 second rapid fire while the top is shot off the bench. I don't use my bifocals shooting despite the blur of the target (lesser of the 2 evils). So for me the FEG is a nice target toy now. Having good sights as you get into your 60's is much more an item than ever! Only thing golden about these years is getting paid to breath air. LOL

The basic story is at some point Sadam Husain ticked off FN and he couldn't get them to sell him their Hi Power pistols. So, he went to FEG and paid them to make him a contract run with all FN marks and Belgian proofs. since the patent had long expired on the pistol license of manufacture, FEG could do what ever they wanted to make Sadam happy. The ring hammers were a big give away and SN's were FEG specific. One story goes that Israel ended up with a number of these and exported them with and without Israeli markings. Some were even sold threw GI PX's in Germany decades ago. Mine has no importer markings any where other than the Belgian proofs. The quality of build is not going to be Browning or FN but certainly better than some military pistols built from around the world. I think the history of these guns is pretty cool. God knows where this pistol has been since it left the factory for the Republican Guard....maybe?

I finaly got around to putting sights on this fake FN Hi Power made by FEG. It has all the right FN roll stamps and proofs but the SN is not a Belgian one. I think the Israelis parkerized this one before they got imported. I put a Real FN barrel in it since the FEG had way too much head space. The sights were original from the 1927 design. Now I can see them right nice. The dots are milled in pockets so the florescent paint will stay put for the most part. The front sight is a S&W one that was way too low so I built it up with mig weld, then reformed the sight to the proper hight. The face is cut in a bit to wipe out the lower S&W white dot that was there. Also added an extended safety. If there is one fault in these guns, its the puny safety to seer contact point. Its tiny and like a number of these that I have modified by putting a dab of weld on that contact point to eliminate the poor contact there that on most guns has trigger creep on safe. I trim the weld down little by little until that safety/trigger creep is zero. Finaly my confederate FN is a pleasure to shoot. A couple months ago, I picked up an Arcus 98DAC off GB for a tad over 3 bills. I was curious about this new version of the P35 that is the Police/Military pistol of 15 countries. It uses the same Hi power magazines and a couple other things. I could even fit a Hi Power barrel to it with a little machine work. It shoots well but is just as heavy as the original pistol at 2lbs 2oz. They left ALOT of steel in the shorter slide. I was thinking about cutting all that extra off some day just to see how much lighter I could get it since it does group pretty good and that weird web hook in the grip actually feels pretty good in my hand.

Non of the modifications render it different from a pistol. It is BATFE approved as per Flux manufacturers web sight. Simply a scope mount has been added and alternate cocking method. I Told my buddy, If I were to build one for my self, I would do it in 357 sig with the longest threaded barrel you can get. Then you would have a serious pistol that can be an accurate stopper beyond the average pistol range yet far more compact than a carbine. JMO.

This is a job I did for a friend. It took a bit of imagination to pull off but it all gelled as I modified the parts to fit. The Flux MP17 frame is for a drop in FCG from the Sig P320 in this case 9mm. The Flux has the well designed spring loaded brace that literally shoots out of the collapsed position via a strong spring and self locks into a rock solid extended position. I'm not a big Tactical gizmo guy but have to say, its pretty cool since its well designed and as solid as it gets. The rail started out as a China made mid length AR narrow Key-mod hand guard. Here is the front collar anchor made from stainless heavy wall pipe. I fabed up a left side cocking handle and put it in the most amount of meat at the front. The threads have been milled to match the bore contour of the inner slide. In the rough... It is then JB weld thread locked. This shot is just the plain Flux lower with my rear rail anchor block screwed up on top in the back there.... that scruffy looking pained thing. Handle in place Rail roughed in place Done, just 3 screws to remove for removal of a rock solid rail.

My Thailand grips came in today and figured I'd show them off. The thing with these grips is there are a few of them on Ebay but they are all cut slightly different. This set looked like the best contoured out of the bunch and man do they fit sweet in the hand. I'm not a fan of rubber despite its properties in sting management on some guns. The well grooved grip allows a more relaxed grip and still have confidant control in full house recoil. Next I'll see how it prints after some action work and post that here.

OK, Let me add one more thing here that maybe is a great compromise between the 2 sides of the argument. Back when I was 16, I took my hunter safety training class in upstate NY. It was 1975. We all had to watch a film of what can go wrong when stupid rears its head with a loaded weapon. In one segment it shown the result of a guy that saw a buck standing in the road, so he pulled up his rifle and shot, missing the deer but hit a guy coming around the corner behind the deer. The bullet punched threw the windshield and hit the guy square in the head. The picture was very graphic of the guy's head against a bloody mushy looking head rest. A couple years ago, here in Crossville a couple left their kids in the parked car to go into the Verison store. The 7 or 5 years old found moms hidden revolver and proceeded to shoot the 3 year old in the head while mom & dad were in the store. My point to all this is a graphic picture is worth a Sh** load of words or even training in a certain way. It can be down right inspiring. There was a sort series out once called "the many faces of death". In one segment Joe forest ranger was filmed trying to control a huge alligator in a pond with a lasso while standing in a small boat, One jerk of the gators head flung Joe ranger into the water and the vid showed the gator making bubble gum out of Joe. I don't think I'll forget about and thing so graphic as these type of real life instances. I would think that If the victim's families gave permission to use actual seen photos of these type of results of stupid, and a comprehensive DVD was made to be handed out to all "new" hand gun owners, It just might stimulate some deeper thought in the stupid pocket to look into not being "THOSE" guys or gals. The cost of punching out a DVD is pennies. I think it would be the best bang for the buck in "Hello"...... with your deadly weapon. Visual stimulation is about these best you can get aside from being bled personally by stupid.

I understand all that. My use of CC was for the topic at hand... Constitutional Carry.

I can see both sides of all this who ha.... I remember when I had a full service gun shop more than a couple times a person would come in to get his gun repaired and cover me with the barrel a few times. How many times did I feel like jumping over the counter , rip the gun out of the AH's hands and smack him up side the head with it. This sort of anger has tainted my other wise unbiased reasoning. What sort of puts me all in for CC is that if one liberal reads TN has CC and that is the deciding factor for them NOT to move here...... well then, this is a no brainer. Anger management has been achieved!

I have a non safety 1894 in 44 and originally bought it to retro it with a tapered light octagon barrel n crescent butt that I have. After target shooting it with 240 & 180 g factory loads, I couldn't bring myself to pull the original barrel off. There is some sort of mysterious magnetic effect going on with the fired bullet pulling the consecutively fired bullets in behind it in the target/back stops. Just cant figure out how non ferrous metal is doing that.....

This is only 1/4 lb of powder and it does nicely. 4 golf clubs jammed in the 3.5" bore take branches out of the trees down yonder... https://imgur.com/mI2DBl1

Well, after building the 1892 Winchester in 357, I guess I got horned into 357 and just had to finally spring for a nice wheel gun. My taste is in S&W but I want a nice handling range gun and the K frame is just right as not being too heavy. Besides I carried a M10 S&W as a duty gun for 18 years and became fond of my qualifying scores with that action. Problem is, I think S&W has been giving the shooting public the screws on their K frame magnums for a very long time. Frame cutting, and burned throats aside, That I can understand but I draw the line at poor barrel shank design. Iv seen a few K's with bore bulges just forward the barrel shank threads inside the frame mouth. Its ugly and should not happen. Reason being, they stop the barrel treads into a "root diameter" opening cut of the shank rather than stopping the threads into thread OD. Taurus correctly decided long ago that they would correct this deficiency and that is one main reason why I bought a 669 rather than a 66 S&W aside from the $$$ difference. The barrel cylinder gap on the Taurus is perfect at .004. It needs a trigger job and a forcing cone hone that I figured would be needed but all in all, this particular Taurus 357 is going to be a very sweet shooter. Its a bit beefier in the frame than a S&W 66 and the finish is exceptional for the 5 bones even OTD on a GB purchase. The Taurus shank

Nice Review. Thankfully, Ruger will put a dent in the Heritage run away train with the Wrangler. To check for shaving lead on any wheel gun, take some medium card stock, fold it over the top strap to hang over the cylinders and fire each cylinder that way while you finger hold the paper in place at the top strap. A small cut in the side blast gas mark will indicate an out of alignment cylinder. Cylinder barrel gap is a very important spec. You should idealy have about .004-.005 there with a feeler gauge. Too much really sucks and makes the gun not worth owning. Keep in mind, another key area to look at is the finish of the bore cone there at the mouth of the barrel. If Ruger skimped out on honing it smooth in the Wrangler, you will get just what you have there pretty quick. Reason being, as the lead bullet begins to get lands swaging its OD, circular machine lines rather than a smooth honed forcing cone will tear lead from the newly cutting groove and leave those tiny lead particles free in the hot burn of the powder behind the bullet. The burn vaporises those particles and that vapor is then deposited as a layer or coating of flaky lead/powder residue exactly like you have pictured. Copper coated bullets fair a bit better in dealing with course forcing cones. Take a good look at the forcing cone in the gun and see if you can spot circular machine cut lines right into the rifling lands. If they are loud, you can have a competent smith hone them out. Thanks for your time on the review.

Ejection issues "usually" comes from not enough time at the factory polishing out the cylinder walls. God knows, I'v fixed sticky ejection quite a lot on a variety of revolvers by repolishing. Tho I'v not seen how Charter has set up these particular extractors. What I find interesting in the Link (thanks Glockspock) is the 74020 in .40....... hmmm. short cut in the frame with revolver grip comfort. I'v also been eyeing the S$W 60 in 357 as Dave. That's a top performer no doubt but the 40 is rather intriguing in its self in a nice wheel gun. Nice & Charter historically were not synonymous. Iv not handled a Charter in decades. Don't get me wrong, they work OK but just clunky is the only way I can describe their function. UPDATE.... Just found this guy's vid on the 40. Apparently he has paged my thoughts! One thing I found out is they use more rifling grooves in their barrels. That typicaly means shallower rifling to groove depth. Like the Marlin micro groove barrels, From what I'v read...not beloved by cast slugs. Cast slugs need groove depth to perform well in many cases.

Big congrats on the new Daughter!!! Off course the fall couldn't happen at some latter date when things are settled out some. Now for some possibly good news for you and hipower. About 6 years ago I damaged my left knee working some big ass logs for firewood, Didn't think much about it and thought I would wait it out. A month latter it was getting worse so I figured its time to see what I screwed up. nothing showed up in the xray. The Dr. I had was dr Frank Lombardo. A young ( latest & greatest) surgeon that specializes in hip & knee replacements. Clearly one of the very best surgeons in NY. He gave me a script that had to be mixed by a compounding Pharmacy that happen to be Willow Pharmacy in Madisonville, LA. They shipped me this cream for my knee and the stuff is like gold in its healing effect. At first it wasn't working for me until I put plastic wrap over the creamed up knee then 30 minutes with a heating pad over the plastic. Before this I did everything as well as what they told you to do just without the cortisone shot. Do your self a favor and copy this stuff and see if your Doc will paper you for it. Trust me this is great for non surgery damage to the knee parts. C1 KETOPROFEN/BACLOFEN/CYCLOBENZAPRINE/GABAPENTIN/LIDOCAINE 20/2/2/6/2 % CREAM FROM THE SUDDEN PAIN THAT WOULD OUT OF NO WARE STOP ME IN MY TRACKS with just walking or turning, I was self convinced I was going to need surgery of some sort. Thank God for these new guys that are on top of the best meds. It took about 2 -3 weeks to be completely pain free. To this day, that knee has been normal. So, get well soon! you know you got to be ready to run after that new gal of yours soon..... so get the cream!!!