Sidecarist

Thats the right part Garufa. You are also correct about inspecting the pin on the rebound slide. I guess I was making an assumption that it was intact from the description of it all working with the side plate off. It could be bent, burred, etc and the malfunction is only apparent when the side plate is on. Thanks for pointing that out. This problem needs careful observation of the parts in motion to diagnose.

Does the hammer bar show signs of wear? Check it for flatness as too. If you've narrowed it down to the bar then so careful observation should help you find the issue. Is it getting pinched by the side plate? Try it with the side plate on but no screws...

Not a bad idea, I guess it's probably more a question for the moderators about managing more sub forums... I'm game. I know this is done in other forums both firearms related and not.

Agreed. Invest in the rebound spring tool. It will save you some frustration for sure. It's common for DIY action jobs to include clipping coils from the rebound slide spring. When you pull the spring both ends should have a coil flattened and closed. If the spring has an open coil it's been shortened... I like the Wolff spring packs. Good luck!

I've shot scores that LOOK like I did!

I wouldn't try taping my glasses for an IDPA match! I'd only do it at home to prove this is what is happening. In a match like IDPA or IPSC I'd just close the offending eye while shooting .

  Your eyes are close to the same strength. My son had the same issue. It's OK to close one eye, or squint one eye. It can induce eye strain, but not likely in the time interval that you shoot in IDPA.   In Bullseye you focus much harder and eye strain can be a problem. Lots of guys use a blinder on the non dominant eye so it can stay open and not see the sights. Try some tape on your shooting glasses as an experiment if you want. during dry fire to prove this is happening.   For a dryfire draw drill, I used to use a simple piece of paper on the wall that looked about the size of the A zone, Or a circle on a plain piece of paper. Draw and dryfire once into the paper. Don;t worry about being precise. This isn't bullseye... The lack of a percise aiming point helped get me over fussing about my sight picture like I did in the beginning.

While you have it apart look closely at the end of the firing pin. It should be flat on the tip, not beveled or chipped. You can look at a fired case with a magnifier as well to see if the strike on the rim is uniform in shape, or distorted. If it is distorted looking it may have a chipped firing pin. A thorough cleaning may correct the light strike. Rimfire rifles are rarely detail stripped and cleaned. It could have original grease in it! Good luck and if you follow Casters advice remember your rubber gloves an goggles...

Hmm I could open the link

Welcome

Good people here, keep it up for the pups!

A reminder about what all of our servicemen have given to preserve the freedoms we have. Thank you.

I knew you were kidding. I hope you know I was! I'm a little tight right now but in a week or two I should be able to help a bit more as well. Every dog I've ever had was a rescue. For a long time I didn't know what went into rescuing these dogs. The fosters, the vets, the drivers and the rescue people that organize it all. Sage the dog in my avatar is a 8 year old rescue that came from Georgia. We wouldn't have such a great dog if it weren't for rescue folks doing this work. Come summer we will be looking for another pup preferably a shepherd mix that will be a bit more protective than Sage is. That new pup will be a rescue for sure.

He sure looks better! Their ability to physically recover is amazing. I'm sure that once he is feeling better and has energy for play that his muscle will return. His eyes look good and he's certainly relaxed in the photos. I'm sure he'll spring back quick. Thanks for the update.

I used to use AA#5 but will be trying titegroup soon. The only other difference is that you can get into high pressures much faster with the 40 than 45acp. Take your time working up your loads

I see you're almost half way there... Maybe other can help out? Even in small amounts it will chip away at the costs for you.

Hmmm. That's funny, wrong but funny

No problem that's what TGO is all about

Juju prayers headed coops way!

Welcome!

Welcome!

If you see an older S&W with a pinned barrel it's still threaded into the frame. The in is just to prevent it from loosening or backing out. I don't know of a revolver with a truly pinned barrel, but could be wrong. It's used on some rifles and usually the barrel us also a press or shrink fit.

Use brass. With the shield the sight has a step milled in it. File a matching step in the brass punch to maximize contact. The brass will mark the sight, but the brass marks are easily removed with a copper bore solvent like Sweets. Also remove from right to left & reinstall from left to right. This rule apply to all sights and pins. Use this info at your own risk...

I did mine and it's not too hard to remove the rear sight but I still have all the tools from my gunsmithing days so maybe my opinion of easy isn't normal

Someday Monkey and I will have to talk. It sounds like we have similar tastes. In addition I too am married to a bourbon enabler...