ma6907

To be clear, this question is out of sheer laziness by me as I know I can look it up, but which state has the easiest to obtain non resident permit that will essentially fill in these gaps? Anyone got a quick link or simple answer?

I wouldn't describe the M&P as a "short trigger pull" though. It does have a nice short trigger RESET, but not pull. I am sure someone has thought about it and I am sure it is quite safe, just seems like the whole description as a "1911" trigger (which is safe because of 2 external safeties) on a weapon without one is either A an exaggeration or B unsafe. Again, I do not like safeties so if this is TRUE and safe, I am in! (After the kinks are worked out. I am done with buying brand new models till all the recalls and fixes have been worked out).

So very short travel trigger and 4.5 lb trigger on a weapon available with no safety? I prefer no safety (usually with DA/SA or longer trigger pull), but seems like it is begging for a few unintentional discharges in that configuration?

http://wilsonpost.com/twra-investigates-mj-cougar-sighting-cms-89883

I agree. My Glock preferrence is Gen2, Gen1, Gen 3, Gen 4. Gen 5 should go back to Gen 2. They should make it where the Gen 5 comes in between Gen 1 and Gen 2. Kind of like the order of the Star Wars saga.

I still like them. If I had more money than I do sense, and if I liked 1911s, i would for sure buy one.

Jab--I own several (read quite a few) handguns. Some costing a full 10x more than my Ruger K (meaning stainless in "Ruger") P95DC 9mm. I am not a 9mm guy, and certainly not a Ruger guy. BUT the first time I ever qualified I used the Ruger 95 DC. Because of this I have used it EVERY other time I have qualified since. I like the size (I am 6'6" with HUGE hands). I like the 17 round +1 capacity. I prefer the DA/SA DC action on all my handguns. It has never jammed, eats whatever I feed it, is more accurate than I am, and ALWAYS goes bang. I always jokingly say that I have a special name for glovebox/truck guns--I call them "Rugers" but that in fact diminishes what I really think about this pistol. It is simply a great weapon. It will not win you any awards down at the gun club, it is not fancy or cool, and no mall ninja would ever want one--but I LOVE mine and anytime anyone wants a starter pistol to get into the semi auto world on when anyone says what is a great weapon for the $$, I always tell them--for ME and for the $$, the Ruger 95 is the most bang for the buck of any of them.(--disclaimer it is not a competition weapon or a fine custom job. Just a reliable one that can be had for $200-250 at nearly every gun show ever. I would take one over 10 Taurus or Hi-points ANY day)

Based on that link, I ordered some Frog Lube. Found the 8 oz bottle on Amazon (coming from Canada so it takes a bit longer) for $15 delivered. I figure that if nothing else I will use it to protect the outside finishes on both my firearms that I use a lot and carry--AND on my safe queens (Mainly Colt Snake revolvers that have in my opinion become too valuable to carry around much). This is exactly what I was hoping to find when I made this post and am actually kind of happy I made it. There IS (in my opinion) a difference in some of the lubes and despite several "snarky" things I have read about Frog Lube, this guy seems to have proven that maybe it IS better for some applications. I have seen the displays at gun shows where they have the Frog Lube applied to a semi precious firearm and then they put that weapon in a little miniature desktop fountain with water pouring over it for the show. I always figured that was just smoke and mirrors and that any oil would do the same. This article proves (at least a tiny amount) that is not the case. Thank everyone for their replies. From here on out for me it is going to be grease for the rails, lucas extreme (with the little needle applicator) to protect the other moving parts and Frog Oil to spray on the surfaces. (mainly because I already have a big bottle of Lucas oil that they GAVE me at the NRA in Louisville after complaining that I could not find any, and today I thought the $15 Frog Lube was too good to pass up on). Worst case scenario I am overthinking it and it will still be fine. Thank you all for your help in my mini project.

well, I guess that pretty much answers it. Thanks for posting that.

Do you get to choose or do you have to carry the one the current agency issued to you?

Thanks. Good read.

That's why I asked. never heard of Gibbs. Thanks. Interesting thing is some guys are very loyal to the gun oil they use. Others will lube with motor oil or even kitchen oils. guess I am trying to find one that makes me want to debate. So far none have seemed better or worse to me. Might be different if in Iraq or Alaska.

I was previously using TW25B after trying some that came packed with my Sig 229. I used it for a while, but it is kind of gloppy. Somewhere between oil and grease. Smells nice, though. Like coconut. My new "favorite" is the Lucas Extreme--which smells kind of like berry flavored gum.

Seems to me the market has become pretty saturated with new/different brands of gun oils. Lately I have been pretty happy with the New Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. Prior to that I was pretty faithful to M-Pro 7. I almost always have a can of Rem Oil laying around for applicatoions where I need to spray a lot. What does everyone else use/like?

I am pretty bad about picking the weapon and then figuring out what I need to make it work for me. I would be far better off figuring out what works and then picking the weapon. Example would be my beloved Sig SRT trigger. I bought a Sig Elite almost by accident, LOVE the trigger AND the beaver tail (I kind of have this little pudgy strip between my thumb and index finger that gets "Shaved" every time i shoot a bunch of rounds with a Glock, for example) and the Elite came with both. THEN I had to go back and convert all my sigs to the elite model. Just an example. Not exactly wasting money since I love shopping around and talking about weapons (duh, that is why we are all here), but when I add up what I have spent, I frequently cringe. In addition, I have this issue that i always think there is a better way to carry. I end up buying holsters that only kind of fit my needs. Not sure how to get around the holster issue because everyone has size and body type considerations (like my pudgy hand issue) and a holster is an extremely personal taste item. If my wife had ANY idea how much $$ it costs me to by a new weapon and the accessories to go with it, I have a feeling I would not be buying any more!

I would wait until you have run a few hundred rounds through it. Not uncommon for a new pistol to shoot a little left till broken in.

I shot the M&P 9c for the first time last weekend. I was not expecting to like it (looks Taurus-ey to me) but I REALLY liked it.

Last time I was there 3-4 years ago, they had a "Gun Check" booth right by the front gate of the Magic Kingdom. I was not carrying but tend to notice such things. Also noticed that it was not posted anywhere (back then) that you could not carry.

I frequently shoot .40 and 10 mm. Drawbacks of 10 mm for my preferred platform (Sig DA/SA) are weight and capacity. A huge drawback of 10mm if you do not reload is cost and availability. I frequently cannot find ammo in a store, and although I can always order it, there are times when I would rather be in a store and see what I am getting and compare box to box. More than once I have ordered ammo online and what I got was not what I thought I was getting (my fault, I know). I do not like to get into ANY caliber wars but for me .40 is a fine platform. 10 mm is obvously better BUT there are times when I cannot carry (or even cannot shoot) my 10 mm. Ammo not ordered in bulk is $$. Ammo ordered in bulk cannot be tested first. Those are (to me) drawbacks. Strange that I had the same experience as others here--during the shortages, 10mm is all that seemed to be on shelves. Then when there is plenty of ammo, there is seemingly none of the 10mm? Buffalo Bore is my favorite "Boutique" ammo so far for my Sig Elite 10 mm but Underwood is gaining rapidly (both thanks to tips on TGO.) The Sig factory 10 mm shoots well but I am not sure the difference in energy (over the .40) of that round justifies the cost (I also shoot and carry 9mm, .380, and several others.) I have not yet tried out the Glock in 10mm but plan on it soon. Glock is not my favorite (Sig is) but I do own and shoot Glocks and like them fine. Related but unrelated note--I have never considered myself much of a s&W semi auto guy, but I shot my brother's new M&P 9mm this weekend and I REALLY liked it. The trigger surprised me,

I have 2 identical Sabre AR-15s. Got the first one because it was made in Tennessee. There was (and is almost yearly) a bill in front of the legislature stating that any weapon manufactured entirely in Tennessee could never be federally banned. The bill keeps failing but that is why I bought my first Sabre. Bought the 2nd one because it was too good of a deal to pass up. Also have a 3rd non-identical Sabre. I do like them.

I launched the safety spring on my Sig p238 across the garage. Took me 2 hours of looking and finally waiting for the next day (sun) to find it. Hoping to never making that mistake again!

I need to learn to be MORE of a tightwad. I seem to spend more on extended pinky rest mags and holsters than I spend on firearms.

There is a rule spoken in Trauma medicine that strangely never gets mentioned on gun boards. "If the patient was shot with a handgun and makes it alive to the ER, he will PROBABLY live. If shot with a shotgun, he will probably still die." Nonfatal shotgun wounds (especially to the chest and abdomen) typically still result of death from massive trauma and infection usually 2 or 3 days after the shot. Many abdominal wounds from a shotgun make it to surgery with simply no way to sew it back together. Would be analagous to trying to sew a hamburger back into a steak. Not a good way to die.