bruiser09

Reconfigured listing.

Correction: 2- 3 drawer cabinets 2- 5 shelf cabinets Thanks.

CORRECTION: SteelCase 2 units - 3 drawer case, drawers 36" x 18" x 63½" overall 2 units - 5 drawer cabinet, shelves 26" x 18" x 39" overall Each drawer or shelf measures: 16" x 33" x 10" internal They hold quite a bit of weight. They were perfect for holding reloading supplies including brass and bullets, which was impressive. $150 per unit or all four four $500 Columbia, Lynnville area.

An option for someone looking for less ammo: I'll sell these one case at a time for $400 per case, if you are within driving range of Columbia or Pulaski. Thanks

After just a bit of research: About 2400 rounds, 4 ammo cans, look like Lake City brass. About 600 rounds looks like NATO surplus from Portugal, typically 147gr, brass. Possibly 1981 batch 45?

Looking to trade my ammo: 7.62x39: one for one 9mm: two for one, TMJ or JHP, 124gr & 146gr preferred, What I have: For sale: 5 full (50cal.) cans of ammo, including the cans. Internet says an ammo can can hold up to 640 rounds. I only counted one can to verify and I counted 627rds. Close enough to say I'm selling 5 full cans of ammo and pricing it as 3000rds total. Asking $1750 for 3000rds (.58/rd) or $375 per can, (~630 rds: .60/rd) I also have three 20mm cans with 800rds in each. They are all sealed except the one I opened to verify. Asking $475 per 800 or $1400 for all three cans. (.58/rd) Best deal: Buy it all! 5400 rounds for $2800 (.52/rd) Going for 80 cents apiece online. Thanks!

That's great info. Thanks. I'm including 2 new boxes of 165gr Remington CORE-LOKT in 280.

For sale: 280 Ackley Improved Built by a forum member with great care, from whom I bought it a few years back. I've shot this beauty 20 times exactly. Put factory ammo 8 inches at 1200 yards. (Sub 1" MOA) You're supposed to form the brass, then you reload the improved profile with a custom load. I never got around to that part. It's time to let it go. Giles County, Columbia area. $450 includes scope rail, no scope.

For sale, Galil Ace Pistol 7.62x39mm Purchased new, has very low round count. Comes with custom fit case. I have the original paperwork. Have magazine options to sweeten deal as needed. $1450 with one Tapco mag to get started.

For Sale: (Reconfigured) FN SCAR 17S NRCH 7.62x51mm This is the best shooting rifle of its kind, the trigger is perfect. Has (an unbelievably great) Geissele Super SCAR Trigger and five FN, 10 round magazines. It's mostly been sitting in the safe with a few flawless rounds run through it. Comes with Leupold VX-R PATROL Scope (3-9X 40mm) with Illuminated Reticle mounted on LaRue SPR-1.5 Leupold RedDot mounted at 45⁰ and Streamlight Tactical Flashlight with BCM Front Grip and ERGO Rubber Grip. Ammo removed to lower price: My price is $3950. Located south of Columbia in Giles County. I make occasional runs to Spring Hill. Thanks.

FN 57 GENII Keeping one, selling one. Low round count, 200-250 (ish) Comes with 2 magazines and case plus paperwork, lock, etc. Giles County, Columbia area. $800

Bought new, never used. Giles county, Columbia area. $165

Still have this? Any FN LE Ammo? Thanks, Bob

Thanks for sharing analog_kidd. I suspect your search habits are not unique. It's a compelling reason to be patient but persistent.

I own one. I think it is a fine shooter and the workmanship is what you would expect. I like that the company makes almost every part for their guns in house, especially the barrels. The DI is a good bit less than the cost of their piston driven AR. I have seen them in the 1100-1200 range which is what I gave for mine.

I own one. I think it is a fine shooter and the workmanship is what you would expect. I like that the company makes almost every part for their guns in house, especially the barrels. The DI is a good bit less than the cost of their piston driven AR. I have seen several in the 1100-1200 range and there was one here on the forum for less than that about a couple months ago.

This is all good information. David, I agree that the best procedure is to reply to the original post. I also agree that leaving the original post intact is more beneficial. What isn't known, can't be known, is how long does it take for a post to reach it's maximum audience. And the fact that you can sell a Glock 19 faster and more frequent than a Savage 280 AI is proof that the buying pool varies in size by item. Of course, it's also true that the audience for any given item grows as the price comes down. You just have to find that sweet spot. I bought that 280AI by the way. Love it!

Hello TGO Staff! I'm curious to know whether there is metadata to indicate the length of time an item should be posted before the ad is updated or refreshed. For example, if an item is posted on a Monday, what percentage of the membership will have seen the ad in 7 days versus 2 weeks? I believe it would be helpful to know whether an item should be modified after say 5, 15 or 25 days in order to achieve optimal convergence of value for the buyer versus success for the seller. A seller could lower their price daily but not find a buyer until there has been enough exposure, or the falling price creates a greater interest across a smaller audience. Basically, I have no idea how quickly the viewership rotates. Thanks

I had a thought on how to construct a relatively simple but theoretically effective cage. First, find an ammo can that is roughly 30-50% larger than the items you want to protect. Next, construct a box from copper or aluminum that is about 1” smaller than the ammo can in height, length and depth. Think of a simple shoe box type of construction having a four sided bottom and snug fitting top. Apply one to three lines of expanding foam to the inside bottom of the ammo can. Press inner box into foam and hold until the foam is firm enough to hold inner box. Apply foam between walls of inner box and ammo can leaving room for inner box lid to fit. That’s it. This box does not have to be grounded. note: searching Amazon “aluminum box” offers several ready made options. Something like this could be slipped into the ammo can using a layer of bubble wrap. If you are curious, the reasoning behind this construction method follows: An EMP, or electromagnetic pulse, has a wide frequency spectrum ranging from VLF (very low frequency) to UV (ultraviolet). As such, the design of an “EMP Cage” would need to protect from frequencies spanning from about 3 Hz (Hertz) to 10 PHz (Petahertz), or just beyond visible light. The properties of the shielding material need to be just as varied as the frequencies they offer protection from. Different metals offer protection at different frequencies. Low frequency magnetic fields require a metal of more ferrous properties (or that have high permeability) Steel works for lower frequencies with lower carbon steel (often referred to as “mild steel”) being more effective because of it’s higher permeability and saturation point.. Copper is widely used over the RF range. Aluminum also works in the RF range but usually needs to be about twice as thick as copper for the same level of affect. The layers of metal are isolated to minimize galvanic decay. The corrosion is real but minimal and is only an issue over time.

Drilling the tool (spanner)? Yes. Probably require a cobalt bit. Drilling the barrel nut? I wouldn't do it, wouldn't advise it. In a pinch, I'd use vice grips and a patch of leather on the jaws to protect the surface, being carful not to apply so much pressure that the nut is damaged. BTW, if you decide to try the strap wrench, maybe you could apply a steel hose clamp to the nut first, to give an oblong shape for better bite. There is a kind of strap wrench that uses a bicycle chain. About $23 at Home Depot, made by Crescent called a chain Wrench. Go figure.

A die handle with right angle threaded bolt might work if you found one close enough to size, and the bolt was long enough to grab the nut.

The pitch of the teeth looks too fine for a common spline socket. I'm counting 42 teeth there? You might be able to improvise a crows foot socket as you don't really need every tooth engaged. I did a quick CAD drawing showing how the outside diameter of the nut need only intersect at strategic points, i.e. I'm showing 4. If you trace the nut on to a flat piece of sheet steel, then drilled 4 holes to accept roll pins the diameter of the pitch, followed by drilling the outer diameter to intersect the 4 holes you could then grab the steel with Vice Grips and give it some serious torque. (30 to 80 ft/lbs according to the net) If you could cut the 3/8" square you could use a real torque wrench. Sorry to be lengthy, but it's an option.

Man! How did I forget to add 300 Black?! I have actually been criticized for owning 300 Blk. Limited use and all. It was my first AR. I felt like it was an ideal home defense choice and it got my first suppressor. I prefer it in pistol length and have 2 set up for CQB. I'm guilty of spending a good bit on accessories and I'm glad to see that market is growing for the AK.

Amen. Actually, with the fireball from the muzzle, everybody knows!

I like the variety of posts here. For me, I was looking for what I hoped would be the right truck gun. 7.62x39 had comparatively unique and compelling ballistics. This is what I found: What makes the 7.62x39 so great to me is that it holds it's energy better than other rifle calibers when fired through shorter barrels. You can still have muzzle velocities around 2000fps through a 7.5" barrel. That's impressive. I own the IWI Galil ACE pistol and I love it. I bought a Draco pistol as well. You made a great choice and I'll be curious to hear your update after you take it out.