bruiser09

Still have this? Any FN LE Ammo? Thanks, Bob

Thanks for sharing analog_kidd. I suspect your search habits are not unique. It's a compelling reason to be patient but persistent.

I own one. I think it is a fine shooter and the workmanship is what you would expect. I like that the company makes almost every part for their guns in house, especially the barrels. The DI is a good bit less than the cost of their piston driven AR. I have seen them in the 1100-1200 range which is what I gave for mine.

I own one. I think it is a fine shooter and the workmanship is what you would expect. I like that the company makes almost every part for their guns in house, especially the barrels. The DI is a good bit less than the cost of their piston driven AR. I have seen several in the 1100-1200 range and there was one here on the forum for less than that about a couple months ago.

This is all good information. David, I agree that the best procedure is to reply to the original post. I also agree that leaving the original post intact is more beneficial. What isn't known, can't be known, is how long does it take for a post to reach it's maximum audience. And the fact that you can sell a Glock 19 faster and more frequent than a Savage 280 AI is proof that the buying pool varies in size by item. Of course, it's also true that the audience for any given item grows as the price comes down. You just have to find that sweet spot. I bought that 280AI by the way. Love it!

Hello TGO Staff! I'm curious to know whether there is metadata to indicate the length of time an item should be posted before the ad is updated or refreshed. For example, if an item is posted on a Monday, what percentage of the membership will have seen the ad in 7 days versus 2 weeks? I believe it would be helpful to know whether an item should be modified after say 5, 15 or 25 days in order to achieve optimal convergence of value for the buyer versus success for the seller. A seller could lower their price daily but not find a buyer until there has been enough exposure, or the falling price creates a greater interest across a smaller audience. Basically, I have no idea how quickly the viewership rotates. Thanks

I had a thought on how to construct a relatively simple but theoretically effective cage. First, find an ammo can that is roughly 30-50% larger than the items you want to protect. Next, construct a box from copper or aluminum that is about 1” smaller than the ammo can in height, length and depth. Think of a simple shoe box type of construction having a four sided bottom and snug fitting top. Apply one to three lines of expanding foam to the inside bottom of the ammo can. Press inner box into foam and hold until the foam is firm enough to hold inner box. Apply foam between walls of inner box and ammo can leaving room for inner box lid to fit. That’s it. This box does not have to be grounded. note: searching Amazon “aluminum box” offers several ready made options. Something like this could be slipped into the ammo can using a layer of bubble wrap. If you are curious, the reasoning behind this construction method follows: An EMP, or electromagnetic pulse, has a wide frequency spectrum ranging from VLF (very low frequency) to UV (ultraviolet). As such, the design of an “EMP Cage” would need to protect from frequencies spanning from about 3 Hz (Hertz) to 10 PHz (Petahertz), or just beyond visible light. The properties of the shielding material need to be just as varied as the frequencies they offer protection from. Different metals offer protection at different frequencies. Low frequency magnetic fields require a metal of more ferrous properties (or that have high permeability) Steel works for lower frequencies with lower carbon steel (often referred to as “mild steel”) being more effective because of it’s higher permeability and saturation point.. Copper is widely used over the RF range. Aluminum also works in the RF range but usually needs to be about twice as thick as copper for the same level of affect. The layers of metal are isolated to minimize galvanic decay. The corrosion is real but minimal and is only an issue over time.

Drilling the tool (spanner)? Yes. Probably require a cobalt bit. Drilling the barrel nut? I wouldn't do it, wouldn't advise it. In a pinch, I'd use vice grips and a patch of leather on the jaws to protect the surface, being carful not to apply so much pressure that the nut is damaged. BTW, if you decide to try the strap wrench, maybe you could apply a steel hose clamp to the nut first, to give an oblong shape for better bite. There is a kind of strap wrench that uses a bicycle chain. About $23 at Home Depot, made by Crescent called a chain Wrench. Go figure.

A die handle with right angle threaded bolt might work if you found one close enough to size, and the bolt was long enough to grab the nut.

The pitch of the teeth looks too fine for a common spline socket. I'm counting 42 teeth there? You might be able to improvise a crows foot socket as you don't really need every tooth engaged. I did a quick CAD drawing showing how the outside diameter of the nut need only intersect at strategic points, i.e. I'm showing 4. If you trace the nut on to a flat piece of sheet steel, then drilled 4 holes to accept roll pins the diameter of the pitch, followed by drilling the outer diameter to intersect the 4 holes you could then grab the steel with Vice Grips and give it some serious torque. (30 to 80 ft/lbs according to the net) If you could cut the 3/8" square you could use a real torque wrench. Sorry to be lengthy, but it's an option.

Man! How did I forget to add 300 Black?! I have actually been criticized for owning 300 Blk. Limited use and all. It was my first AR. I felt like it was an ideal home defense choice and it got my first suppressor. I prefer it in pistol length and have 2 set up for CQB. I'm guilty of spending a good bit on accessories and I'm glad to see that market is growing for the AK.

Amen. Actually, with the fireball from the muzzle, everybody knows!

I like the variety of posts here. For me, I was looking for what I hoped would be the right truck gun. 7.62x39 had comparatively unique and compelling ballistics. This is what I found: What makes the 7.62x39 so great to me is that it holds it's energy better than other rifle calibers when fired through shorter barrels. You can still have muzzle velocities around 2000fps through a 7.5" barrel. That's impressive. I own the IWI Galil ACE pistol and I love it. I bought a Draco pistol as well. You made a great choice and I'll be curious to hear your update after you take it out.

I finally got my 45ACP suppressor out of jail. In anticipation of this eventuality, I had the 5" barrel on my Quarter Ten Circle 9mm AR turned .578x28 so I could directly thread the can on without an adapter. The work performed by Law Enforcement Sales was flawless and the function is wonderful. I highly recommend this courteous and professional business.

The barrel was just shipped Friday. I forgot to include a note. My address is on the box for return shipping. I will PM with full details. -bob

Thanks, I'll send it tomorrow. -bob

Sounds good. Reply with shipping address and I'll send it out. -bob

The OD of this barrel is .920. Also, it is already crowned. Any idea on price and turn around time? Thanks, Bob Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Great to hear that I'm off. I truly did not know that one could be assembled for so little. It should serve to encourage others to try their hand at a build. -bob

I have a Quarter Circle 10, 9mm barrel, about 5.5" long, that I want turned and tapped .578x28. I'm aware that isn't a conventional tap for 9mm but it is for 45ACP and I want to use the same can on two guns. Assuming there isn't a reason why this can't be done, does anyone have a recommendation for a shop to do this? Thanks, -bob

I completely agree. And regardless of price, the single element I look for is reliability. I have owned many nice vehicles for example. But there is always that one car that started every time. I miss that one. (rolled it, interstate black ice, 286000 miles, ran like a sewing machine) I have $2500 in a SBR without a single regret. You're right. Price isn't first.

Below, I have pasted a text file I wrote showing what I might need to spend on a custom AR15 build. I've only built a few and it can be surprising how fast the parts add up. The bottom line, from my limited experience, is that an impingement rifle will run between $700 to $2k. The extra money spent doesn't always mean you get a better gun. I swapped out several buffers on one build to eliminate FTF / FTE where I wanted to run suppressed. On that gun, the final cost didn't change but the performance was vastly improved. I'm posting this to share and learn. AR (Impingement) Build Cost Upper: 80-150 reciever 100-200 barrel 20-70 muzzle (compensator) 30-70 gas block 10-20 tube 30-250 hand guard 20-40 buffer tube 20-50 buffer spring 20-40 buffer total: 330-890 add: 20-50 charging handle 100-250 bolt carrier group total: 450-1190 AR upper (pieced together) Or save buying: complete upper assembly (no BCG/CH) 350-500 add BCG/CH total: 470-800 AR upper (assembly)q Then add: 100-350 lower receiver 50-150 stock 10-200 trigger 20-40 grip 40-80 lower parts kit total: 220-820 Added to upper: $670 - $2010 AR (pieced together) $690 - $1620 AR (assembly) You can spend slightly less and quite a bit more than the prices shown here. These prices reflect popular choices as indicated on the web. This is not a build list; additional parts may be required.