Jct1911

Excellent quality here also: http://shop.nightingaleleather.com/Griffon-V-OWB-Outside-the-Waistband-Holster-Griffon-V.htm Can't go wrong with Milt Sparks either.

Bullseye and unique will leave you slow with Max loads vs. other powders. As above, 800x, blue dot, AA9 all work well for speed. Another of my favorite is power pistol.

I'll add a little, the 4th is invaluable. I use it regularly.

Yup. Spring for the QC10bcg if you haven't.

Maybe, this was 3yrs ago. I'm not an FFL, I'll leave that to him, I assume he knows what he is doing. I know it means nothing, but to unknowing prying eyes, it's a pistol and says so on the side.

To avoid any confusion, I bought a mega lower that was marked pistol, also when I had it transferred I had the FFL put it as "semi-auto pistol". All the rest have been transferred as other and could be built as either, but have been built as rifles. SBR tax stamp or pinned muzzle device is the only way to get sub 16" barrel and a stock in a legal package. I have both, SBR is totally worth the $200.

The first part of distillation is fermentation. Also most important. As a side project, and totally legal, learn to brew a drinkable wine or beer. In a SHTF scenario, beer provides some sustenance and vitamins(think monks in fast) and nothing microbial than can kill you or make you sick can live in beer or wine. As to fuel distillation, proper yeast will make you first run much more efficient. Look up turbo yeast, you can get into the high 20%+ abv from fermentation before the yeast quits working. Most beer/wine yeast can only get you to about 12% as will standard bread yeast. Champagne yeast can get you up to 18-20%. For fuel purpose finding a cheap sugar source is the hardest part. Learning to transform starch to sugar is what makes it cheap but requires specialized equipment(mash tun). In a true SHTF scenario, look into building a solar still, plenty of ways to distill without a "real" still. Double boiler is used in 3rd world countries to distill by millions everyday.

Also add North American Arms. Still working off Mr. Casull's original mini revolver patent and design. I occasionally throw a 22mag in my pocket.

Korth ?

http://montanagoldbullet.com/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=9mm

These are for full blown top fuel drag cars. They are grade 17 Titanium. Model is Pac Racing R522. These are from my .30 cal form1, OD 1.48. Can is somewhat large, 8.5" by 1.625"OD. But it weighs about the same as a commercial can at 18oz. With 300blk loaded for a single shot, it is Hollywood quiet.

Still thick enough after turning down for centerfire rifle(albeit quite small), wall thickness at .06 even after turning down. VSR=valve spring retainer Like so:

I have a b tube awaiting approval. They are overly thick in the wall. Mine is turned down between threads .02. Shaved 2oz off the weight. I'll be using 6-7 modified Ti VSR's and the mount will be the liberty booster. B tube is the smallest I'd go for a centerfire pistol can. My weight will be down to 12-13oz with mount.

Contender can't handle .308. It's rated at 55k psi max. Go for the bigger encore and it opens up many possibilities.

Have you ever shot a 308 pistol? Do you think you can make 500yd shots without a stock? Honestly, I'd look at a more stable platform. TC Encore is excellent. Another idea, you've got a 458, if you reload, you could go to a lighter bullet to increase velocity and improve trajectory or the new 375 socom has promise as a longer range cartridge with improved ballistics.

As long as it's visible after re-assembled, go for it.

Sounds like a multitude of issues at once. 1. Sizing .451 is too small, personally of the 14 .45's I've owned, .452 will work. 2. Flaring the mouth too much will result in lack of case tension, just enough to start the bullet 3. Your seating die is set up incorrect, should be able to seat w/o the crimp with minor adjustments 4. Crimping does not hold a bullet, its main purpose is to remove the flare and second to promote feeding

Not with the paddle, but their gear is top notch. I have a complete set up for 3gun and it has held up to everything.

Springfield Range Officer Champion. Assuming you can live with a bull barrel set up over the bushing set up. Available in 9 and 45. Top notch CS if needed and they make good 1911's.

The FCD is a roll crimp, just has a carbide post sizing ring at mouth to re-size your brass. I gave up the FCD, redding profile crimp is 1000 times better.

Or the opposite, too much flare, when crimping its leaving a bulge below case mouth.

Also what OAL are you using? For some time I used Gordon's 245 design from accurate. It worked in all mags but pmags didn't like to be filled up. The lancers work great, I've also never had issues out of d&h mags with green follower.

9mm and cast are tough for some. The main culprit being the tapered case swaging the base and lower drive bands in effect making your .356-.358 bullet smaller and leaving very little full diameter bearing surface. I highly suggest the Lyman M die to correct this problem. For those with Lee powder through dies, NOE molds makes replacement powder through expander a for a nominal price.

Edges are still round. No problems. I've seen federal m193 with flatter primers. As above, the 2.26 OAL is too long for the short fat 30's. In 300blk, the long, heavy bullets with high BC's get loaded long. The exceptions being light bullets designed for the caliber like the 125grn Sierra MK. Just to keep you honest and safe! Here's the data from Hornady's newest manual. 150grn FMJ COL 2.20 H110 12.3grs start 1500fps H110 15.9grs Max 1800fps