Hidalgo

Do a Google search for "P238 problems" and you can read for quite a while. Of course, I am aware that EVERY pistol can be prone to a failure ... just like an automobile or anything else. But I felt like there were too many different threads with people having to return the pistols. Maybe it's not an "across the board" situation, but I just got a bad feeling about it. Sorry if I stepped on any toes. That's just a response to what I have read recently.

I've read several (aka...too many) stories about P238s not being reliable. It was my first pick in the .380, but after all that reading I decided to pass on it. I know there are tons of them out there functioning properly, however.

Guys, I'm at a crossroads with my carry piece. I am currently carrying a Colt Govt in 38 Super. While I literally LOVE this pistol, I want/need something smaller due to the circumstances which I carry under. I have looked at Glock 19s, and while the pistol is "OK", I have reservations. No safety concerns me (old 1911 guy). And it's actually much thicker than my Colt so therefore it doesn't really fix the problem. And the smaller Glock (is it the 26?) doesn't float my boat either. I have looked at several .380s ... KelTec, Bersa, etc. These little pistols are intriguing, but I'm still not sold on ANY of them. If you found yourself in this situation ... what would be your direction of travel? I'm open and would appreciate any and all of your suggestions. I gotta make a decision within the next couple of weeks. I'm leaning towards a Commander that I have located in .38 Super, but I don't know if that will be any better than what I have as far as conceal-ability. (FWIW ... I'd dearly love to find a Colt Pony .380 for a reasonable price. But we all know those don't exist, lol)

No pics of anything else? Heck ... this ain't no "cool looking" rifle, but it's done more than it's share of putting fur on the ground.

NOPE. No need to go there unless you're going into combat with it. 1:9 is the most versatile. A 1:7 won't allow you to shoot "most" 40gr bullets with any accuracy. A 1:9 will shoot anything short enough to go in the magazine ... up to 69 grains or so. The regular "triangle" handguard is simple. But a floated handguard will (in most cases) require removal of the gas block. While that's not rocket science, it can be challenging if you've never done it before. It has to be replaced with the hole aligned with the gas port in the barrel. I'd suggest that you order the rifle with the handguard of choice already installed unless you're experienced in this. Be aware that a 16" barrel is quite a bit louder than a 20" .... just food for thought.

Or find a used, in food condition, Beretta A303. I have one that I have owned since 1993 and it has been the best firearm I have ever used. They're out there ... if you do some searching.

If I had to "start all over again", I would go with a Beretta and the appropriate barrels. Of course, we're talking money. I've used Berettas extensively to waterfowl hunt for years in some of the worst conditions that you can imagine. They've never, ever failed to operate. If money is an issue, you can and probably should go with what you have and get the appropriate barrels. As for the person who recommended a rifled barrel, that is the preferred avenue. However, there are slugs that will shoot pretty accurately if you find one that your barrel "likes".

Who said I was referring to "15 pound distance queens" ?!?! That's something that you conjured up in your mind. My hunting rifles are 7-8 pound rifles. I would be willing to wager that 98% of the deer taken in Tennessee are taken with shots under 50 yards. Sorry I didn't cover EVERY possible scenario. Yeah ... I understand. I don't carry spotting scopes or shooting benches with me when I coyote hunt. But that's got nothing to do with what I said ...... The Mini was an inherently inaccurate rifle. Cold or hot, it didn't matter. Ask anyone who owns one. Perhaps you didn't understand my statement. I was referring to LOTS of oil in the barrel. And FWIW, none of my rifles are put away without being cleaned. And they're plenty accurate, thank you. I see no problems with that either! If that's what makes you feel good then by all means do it. But the fact remains ... a cold bore is going to be what your first shot (which you said was most important) is going to come from. Now ... if you subscribe to your theory of storing a rifle "dirty" (for lack of another term) and you hunt during a rain, are you going to leave all that moisture in your bore? Or are you going to clean it when you get home? And if you DO clean it, then are you going to have to find someplace to fire a shot before you go back into the woods tomorrow? Seems to me that knowing how your rifle shoots when clean would be the best way to avoid any confusion and trips to the range to "fire a fouling shot" before you go hunt.

I have three ARs that all have scopes mounted. Two use Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14 scopes, and the other is a Buckmaster 6-18. It all depends on what you are planning on using the rifle for, but the 6-18 is WAY too much to use hunting coyotes, etc in most areas. It is used strictly for paper and prairie dogs. The 4.5-14 is more than adequate for most hunting situations. I have taken coyotes with it out to 250 yards. As for mounts, I use the B-Square one-piece mount. It is sturdy, solid, easy to install, and will withstand any abuse that you sent it's way. Midway and several other online stores stock them. They're around $50. Well worth the investment, and way easier and more solid than rings. They also put the scope at the correct height above the bore. This is critical on an AR installation. Whatever you do, remember that an AR transfers plenty of shock to the scope and rings. Put something on there with enough quality to take the repeated pounding.

FWIW ... longer barrels are inherently LESS accurate than shorter barrels. Go ahead and believe those wife's tales if you prefer. But I know better from experience. I have three 16" ARs with bull barrels that will shoot more accurately than any bolt gun you can find under the $1000 price tag. The shorter barrels are stiffer and have less harmonic resonance than a longer tube. And today's quality ARs are built to exacting tolerances also. As for the bolt/semi comparison, it WAS true that a bolt gun is usually more accurate than a semi. But that is not the case anymore since the AR has evolved into the sporting realm. These rifles operate the same way as a bolt rifle ... the bolt is locked when the bullet begins it's trip down the barrel. The bullet is gone before the bolt moves because the locking lugs keep it stable. Not all semi rifles operate that way though. For my money, I'll take a well-built AR in proper operating condition with good optics any day. Been there ... done that.

+1 Shooters Choice is one of the better solvents out there. I agree with this method except for the last line. No need to blow out with brake cleaner. Use clean patches until they come out clean. Lube SPARINGLY after you get it clean. And if you absolutely, positively feel like you have to use a brush, then PLEASE get a nylon brush and not brass or bronze. WHY? A good solvent will actually erode the brush, and you'll be cleaning for hours trying to get all of the copper out of the barrel. When it is actually the brush residue that you are seeing on your patches. And if you are going to use a rod, get a coated rod. Not one of those aluminum screw-together cheapies. Your bore will thank you.

Sorry, but your experiences are WAY different from mine. I shoot on average 300-400 rounds per month. Sometimes way more than that. I go to SD twice a year and shoot 1500-2000 rounds at prairie dogs. Any of my rifles will easily put the first, second, and third rounds within 1" of each other. And there is usually no change in accuracy for 50-60 rounds. I have bone-stock Ruger VT's and custom built ARs. They all seem to react the same. In your defense ... every bore is different and reacts differently to certain powders and their fouling properties. And some people tend to leave more oil or whatever in a bore when they "clean" it. Lubricants can and will make certain changes to POI, especially if the owner gets enthusiastic about oiling the bore. And the stock/barrel relationship can also have a hand in this. Barrels that are not free-floated properly can change POI significantly. Unfortunately, most of the rifles carried by Tennessee deer hunters are of the type and configuration that do not have adequate clearance ... or none at all (barrel band). BUT.... if we are talking about deer hunting in Tennessee, my response would be: ... "WHO CARES?" If your rifle changes POI enough to miss a deer at the ranges that most shots are taken in this area, then you need another rifle

You guys are hilarious. Cold, hard facts: A clean bore is an ACCURATE bore. It don't get "more accurate" after firing a "fouling shot". I shoot extremely long range very regularly. The first shot out of the rifle is as accurate as the 4th, 6th, etc. The only time accuracy changes is ... When the barrel heats up (it's not going to do that hunting) When the barrel starts getting dirty. Want your rifle to shoot to point-of-aim with a cold bore? Take it to the range...CLEAN. Shoot ONE round. Let it sit 60 seconds as you make scope/sight adjustments. Shoot another round. Repeat. Then clean the bore. Shoot 1 round again with a clean bore. If it shoots to suit you, then you're done. Take it home and clean it. If not, repeat until it shoots where you aim. Always check accuracy with a clean, cold bore. And store it clean. That's the only way you can eliminate the variables (just how dirty is it?)

Who said that our enlisted people don't have a sense of humor? If you are indeed USMC (as I assume by your screen name) then I would like to say THANK YOU for your service and for keeping us safe and free. And the same to any other enlisted folks on here!

First off ... NEVER use FMJ ammo outside of a bermed condition. It can (and will) ricochet off into never-never land in a hurry and hit something that you had no intention of hitting. Like has also been said, you don't need any of the fancy stuff. If you are indeed wanting to "gear up" simply for the protection of your pets while you are outside, then a simple and dependable hand-held light and a good accurate handgun are all that should be required. As for the regulations on coyotes, there is no closed season (there are a few conditions that you can't hunt though. Read the regs thoroughly). If you live in an area where you can shoot safely (not a subdivision or in town) you can sit on your porch and call them into your yard. That is ... if they are as prominent as you say. Coyotes, when not hunted, become very bold and won't hesitate to come into a back yard to the sound of a rabbit in distress or other sounds that signify an easy meal. A $5 mouth call and a $15 video (Byron South is good) along with just a little practice should put you in position to call them to the gun. If they are posing a threat to you, your property, or your family (dogs included), you can shoot them without recourse.

I'm certain that she picked out a photo of that she thought she saw ..... But you can do the research: There are NO black mountain lions in existence. It is practically an impossibility. And the thought that a black cougar could be living in Tennessee ... well, that's unimaginable.

Guys, I'm a fairly new member here, but I am 55 years of age and have been hunting and shooting since I was 16. My son is 15 and is an experienced marksman and hunter. We are coyote hunters. We know HOW to call them and HOW to locate them. We can REMOVE them from your hunting lease or personal property (or at the very least thin them out). We are upstanding, responsible, family-oriented gentlemen who are genuinely interested in helping you with any coyote problem that you may have. Of course ... we get to shoot the little fellers in the process. We can't travel to west TN very much, if at all. But we are located in Chattanooga and anywhere within a reasonable drive is definitely of interest. Like I said ... we are responsible, careful, respectful hunters who will leave your property as we find it (or better) and will do our very best to help with your coyote problem. Of course, you are more than welcome to join us afield if you desire. We have nothing to hide and would welcome another shooter. If this sounds like something that would be of benefit to you, let me know and we'll see if we can get together. Steve.

That's a picture of "SnowFlake". He was the only albino gorilla that was kept in captivity. He was a master of facial expressions. He passed away in 1993. You can read about him here (and lots of other places) if you're interested: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/episodes/snowflake-the-white-gorilla/introduction/275/

HeHe ... yeah, I saw that one too. Kinda like watching an episode of Star Trek.............

Agreed. I've put in my share of time during my 55 years hunting all across this great State. And I have NEVER seen nor heard anything that would make me believe that cougars live anywhere in TN in a BREEDING POPULATION. There may, however, be a stray pet that the owner decided they couldn't care for anymore and was released. And ... MOUNTAIN LIONS AREN'T BLACK !!! You guys need to do some research and stop letting your fantasies run away with you. That said, I HAVE seen and hunted lions in Arizona. They are plentiful in the area that we hunt. Even with the adequate population of cougars there, it is still rare to see one while afield. These cats are WAY more intelligent and secretive than anything else you can hunt in the USA. If they don't want to be seen, then you likely won't see them. As for a .45 AUTO being adequate to kill one, the answer is yes. They are very thin skinned and fairly easily dispatched. But if you are carrying for protection, it's a 50/50 chance that you'd get a shot anyway. Cats sneak and attack when the odds are in their favor. You'd never know they were around until they had you by the neck or head.

Yep. I've built several, and the DPMS kit is very adequate. Except for the trigger. RR 2-stage is the best bang for the buck on triggers.

(I hope this ain't against the forum rules) Mugster, contact Mike Milli @ Dedicated Technologies. He can help you out. I have had 3 of his uppers, and they are absolutely awesome. His addy is: Welcome to the Dtech Superstore Hope this helps.

All excellent advice. I would also suggest that you get "The ABC's of Reloading" and read it. Twice. Never substitute primers, powder, or bullet weights. And after you reload for a while, you'll discover something "strange"......MAX loads are never as accurate as milder loads. At least...not usually.

You can't best that price.....but you CAN beat the quality. It's a great hobby, and you can customize the shells to your use. But unless you aren't pleased with the quality of what you're using now, and if you don't have the time or passion to do it, it's probably something to carefully think about.

Yeah...that's definitely comforting. I wasn't worried about passing it...I just wondered what to expect. Thanks to everyone for the info.