timcalhoun

Here is mine.

TMI!!!!!!!!!! LOL

Very cool!! What a cool job. I'm not close enough to hear ya but I have waited at the tracks for you to go buy many a time.

So there are 3 clicks in total???? That's weird if so. Could be a different hammer design I guess. IMO you should either carry a 1911 in condition 1 or 3 and never 2. It is just too likely for an AD to happen while lowering the hammer on a live round to carry condition 2. Plus the "half cock" is not designed to be a safety in the traditional sense. It is there to help prevent a round detonation if the hammer/sear/sear spring relationship gets too worn or set up wrong and then malfunctions. Condition 1 is by far the most popular way to carry a 1911. For folks who are not familiar with the gun it can seem a little scary at first, but it is very safe. In condition 1 the sear could break in two or magically disappear and the hammer still could not fall and strike the FP.

You can take a stone/file to the slide release. Just go very slow and keep the angle while checking often. You should hear one click and then one more to be at full cock on a 1911. Basically the hammer has two places the sear contacts and makes a click. Congrats on the new purchase. Here is a cool link that shows how everything in your gun works. http://www.m1911.org/loader.swf

Guys, if you are or know someone in the military send them this link. The trouble with most hearing protection is that some frequencies are suppressed more than others and those are the ones that make it hard to understand words/sibilance. These kinda act like a volume knob lowering all frequencies roughly the same. You can still hear and understand words but everything is at a lower volume. I have the molds and they work great but I have not tried the others. I used them when I did a lot of film scoring and when I'm playing music live. You don't get that muffled felling and can still hear everything. ER-20 Hi-Fidelity Ety-Plugs - Music & Concert Plugs

It seems like a good idea considering the 100yr anniversary in upon us. I imagine a lot of new 1911 stuff will be offered this year in anticipation for the centennial. I'm not one to buy a safe queen but I imagine I will buy a 1911 or two this year depending on what is offered.

Drop in parts are only drop in about half the time. Depending on what trigger you put in there it might work fine. But most of the time I find that I will need to take some of the material off the shoe for the trigger to flow free. It must move freely in the channel. And if it has a overtravel screw you will need to know how to adjust it. Your best chance of avoiding most or all of this is to get a SA trigger.

I guess I wouldn't dismiss it so quickly if I had the problem. I know a large number of pharmaceuticals can be duplicated with limited equipment so says my local pharmacist. But I don't know you may be right. But I will tell you that if I listened to everyone that said that it was too hard and that can't be done without yada yada I would be in a very sorry place today. Plus, if it were me, I would not rule out going back for more education to address the problem.

Shot my first match at the end of 04 and can't stop. I went out to Dickson and shot with the folks at NTPS Home Page and I couldn't have asked for a nicer bunch of guys. No matter what your shooting level, you are welcome as long as you're safe. The folks at Music City Tactical Shooters - IDPA Nashville shoot at the same range and some guys shoot both USPSA and IDPA and I'm sure the guys there are very accommodating as well. I'm planning on shooting with mctsc next month. Not sure I will be legal with my single stack rig but I wont care if they score me or not. I'm there for the shootin'.

Well, if humans make it you can make it, so figure out how to make it. Where there is a will there is a way.

BTW, I have never had one explode in my 650 but years ago when I was loading on a Lee 1000 I had one go bang:stunned:. It scared the crap out of me but damaged nothing.

Oh I almost forgot, if the primer station locator tab is not adjusted properly you can get this too. There is a little set screw that moves the tab. I like to adjust mine just so it is making contact with the case with very little pressure on the case. Dillon says to adjust it to where you are contacting the case and then back off to where there is a space about the width of a piece of paper between the tab and the case. This allows the case a little wiggle room so the primer will find the hole. Hope this helps.

I will get an upside down one once in a blue moon but it was probably from a dropped primer tube or just a dumb mistake not lining up the tube properly when filling up the machine. If the machine is adjusted right you should not get side ways and crushed primers. Is it a new machine? I had to replace the indexing ring and indexing block at about 70-100k. It was crushing primers and just not lining them up in the pockets. If yours is new you will need to adjust the indexing block probably. Dillon will send you a little adjuster to help in this if you don't already have one.

It was in a De Santis holster.

Cocked and locked....the safety never came off. But, I will carry it in the front pocket from now on because of the mag release deal. I could try a heavier spring for the mag release I guess. But I don't want a bang and then click if I need it.

So, I wasn't thinking about the mag button and carried my 238 in my back pocket last night. Well, thank God I didn't need it cause the mag button got pushed and the mag was slightly out of the magwell. Lesson learned, and please learn from my stupidity.

Oh no...............??????????????

That's a beauty!!!

I know..............sometimes when I talk to tech support of customer service I want to ask them if their dad is home.

Well, if you can't handle a gun blowing up in your hand every now and again you need to toughen up. The cost savings when you reload far out way the occasional gun detonation. Plus if you take a home medic course you can stitch yourself up in no time and save the doctor bill. Bunch of wimps. I imagine every gun manuel will have something like "use only quality factory ammo" or "use of reloaded ammo will void your warranty". It is only there for liability issues. Or maybe some gun makers have stock in ammo companies.

The two most likely scenarios to me is (like mentioned before) bullet set back or something in the case besides powder. If any debris makes it to the charging station it can reduce the volume of the case and cause dangerous pressure levels. I load on a 650 too, and if it is set up right it is really hard to double charge since it will move the shell plate long before it will re-charge the powder bar. Did you have a malfunction and manually move the shellplate for any reason? Do you have a powder check? If not it is the best 39 bucks you can spend and will catch any weird anomalies in the case. At any rate sorry for your ka-boom and I'm glad you were not hurt.

It may not be in enough. So, whoever has this gun either go to the link I posted in the earlier thread and follow those details or you can just do this. Unloaded gun of course. Then with you shooting hand grab the gun as if you were shooting it (slide is forward and hammer is down) pull the trigger and keep it pinned to the rear. With the other hand (while keeping the trigger pinned) pull the hammer back and forward several times. You should feel nothing but the natural spring resistance. If that is the case we then need to make sure the screw is not out too far. (If the screw was too far in you would feel two catches as you worked the hammer. These are the hooks on the hammer going over the sear.) But, if you feel no catches you slowly work the screw in about 1/2 turn at a time checking each time you make an adjustment. At some point you will feel the hammer hooks catch the sear. At that point back the screw out one full turn or 1 1/2 turns. You overtravel screw is adjusted. You may want to put some green loctite on it before you start so it will hold position. But only 1 tiny drop! Hope this helps. : )

When you say "tightened it" (the overtravel screw that is) did you mean adjust it or did you really tighten it? Because if you screw it in too far a bunch of wierd crap can happen and possibly damage your hammer and sear angles.

Of course we don't know what the gun has been through, or what crazy thing the orig owner might have done, but if it is the original sear and it has been untouched I would look other places first. But it would be easy enough to pull out and look at.