timcalhoun

Mav, the mag pouches are the Safariland 773's if I remember......... The idea is to try to get your reload down to the time it takes to make one step (right around a second). A good drill to do in live fire for this is the "1, reload, 1". Put a target at 10yds, draw shoot 1, do a reload and shoot 1 more. Both rounds have to be in the A zone and you have to see a good sight picture for both shots. The goal should be one second but no more than 1.20 seconds between shots. RWF, you are right about my son....................I'm sure he will be kicking my butt in no time for sure. I'm also sure I'll be more happy about it than he will when that day comes.

I know right.............looking at January's NTPS scores I obviously can't hit the broad side of a barn to let that Brad guy beat me. LOL

I figured that was probably the case.

We !?!?!?!?! That just slows ya down..............I just throw lead everywhere and hope 4 the best!!!!

Wounded Warrior Project Logo.

A slow day today, so I thought I'd do some dry fire. Ended up taking a video of my reload and thought I'd share. I have figured out why it is not as fast as Travis Tomasie's reload..............if you look really closely you will notice some grey hair. LOL

Yeah, it's almost like they were paid consultants and were intimately involved in its design or something. Sorry I couldn't resist. This article has been brought up many times and I of course will not seriously attack Larry's intent or integrity. So, I can only speak to my experience with the platform (1911 that is). I'm just not sure how any gun on the planet can be as reliable as any one of the 6 1911/2011 I own. I will routinely run them 2-3k between cleanings during the shooting season (running black bullets and titegroup and if you are in the know, you know how filthy that combo is) with never a fear of a single hiccup. Granted they are full customs, built correctly, and tight as a drum everywhere. However, I've owned many factory guns that would do the same. I would want nothing else in the field or in competition. Just my opinion. OMV

Of all the platforms that are out there, the 1911/2011 is still by far the one that has the best interface. Plus you can get really high on the gun getting the bore axis more in line with your arm so that recoil management is much better. It is not a mistake that they completely dominant in USPSA competition either. In the divisions that you can shoot glocks, xd's, M&Ps and JMB's design, The old work horse is overwhelmingly the choice above all others by a huge margin. Among the top shooters who are not endorsed by gun companies and therefore can choose what they want, they choose the "antiquated" 100 year old design almost 100% of the time. Bullseye competitors prefer the platform as well since you can get a great roll trigger and unsurpassed accuracy. Yes, there are a few big dogs like Dave, Bob and Jessie who have/do run a glock...........But, Jessie switched to the 2011 the moment she became a free agent and I'm certain that Dave would do the same if he left glock, Bob is the only one at the top of the games that actually prefers the glock. Rob Leatham certainly could use an XD in Limited but of course he has never and I'm sure would never do that. And he slaps the trigger. This year at the Nationals there was only one gun other than JMB's design in the top 20 in the Limited division and zero in open. It's the same year after year. It's the trigger! The better you get the more it matters! So it makes complete sense to me that our special forces for the most part will sometimes "get it". They train and shoot more. So until someone invents a better interface that is as manageable and user friendly, you will always see the old gun around. As far as being cost effective.....I have yet to see a plastic gun that has been re-barreled 2 or 3 times. 100 or 200K rounds out of a 1911 is not that special. Jerry Barnhart has a 2011 with over 300K on it and is still going strong.

First take a deep breath.....It'll be okay. Most everything you have described will happen with bad mags. Wilson, Tripp and CM power mags are the way to go. PM me if you want some help or to try some mags.

Somehow I missed that you were having a return to battery issue as well. Sorry. So yes, too much tension on the extractor could conceivably give you weird/weak ejection issues as well as the return to battery issue you had. You can check for too much tension by taking the slide off and rolling a round up under the extractor and see how much resistance there is. It's a feel thing and I of course would need to have it in my hands to tell. Bottom line you need to make sure: 1. the extractor hook is in good shape. 2. the tension on the extractor is right (that includes too much) 3. the extractor is not clocking If all of those are good then I would go on to the ejector. I would look for brass marks on the gun since those can tell you what to do with the ejector. You can shape the face of the ejector to point the cases in the desired direction. Depending on what happens as I watch the cases I may fit a longer ejector as well. I would look to see where on the ejector the case is hitting as well. But again, none of this would be done until I was sure of 1, 2, and 3.

Just found this on youtube.

Well, probably not. The 03 colt had a hammer though it was internal. I'm pretty sure the Solo is striker fired and probably has a FP block etc and I'm guessing has very little in common with the 03. Not sure if it will be too heavy for a pocket gun of if it is even intended to be one?

To the left.

I didn't say field strip I said detail strip. Basically you have to drive out roll pins from the safety and the ejector while holding back the hammer just to replace the mainspring. The tool that this guy made helps a lot. YouTube - Introducing the Browning Hi-Power part 3

I think they are great guns. But it is one of the most difficult guns to detail strip I have ever known, and be carful of hammer bite when you shoot them.

Light loads will do that. Or limp wristing. If you are certain the extractor has enough tension on it, are you sure the hook on the extractor is in good shape? Bent/broken ejector can also cause weirdness like this.

The Kimber 4" uses an officers model spring not a commander recoil spring so that is the reason for the extra lbs. In my experience a new spring can alleviate the symptoms sometimes, but a gun that is set up right should only fling brass farther as the recoil spring gets weaker. So you still have the problem but the heavier recoil spring changes the pulse enough to help the problem.

I think they are a really good extractors and will give great service (Ed Browns' that is). I like EGW probably better.

like others have said erratic ejection will often point to the extractor. Clocking being a pretty decent guess, but so is a simple tension problem. The extractor should never be able to clock at all, and if it does you need to fit a new firing pin stop. An aftec extractor should never clock either, but you need to break the corners of the firing pin stop so that the aftec can hinge freely on the stop. That will allow the spring to do their job. Anyone can put an extractor in a 1911 and tune it. It just takes a little effort, but it is really no big deal. Just make sure that when you put the new one in, it does not clock either. Sometimes you have to fit a new FP stop when putting in a new extractor. Also, many times the strange ejection pattern comes from the spent brass hitting the slide (common on shorter 1911's). If that is the case and the extractor is tuned correctly and is not clocking you will need to angle the ejector. You can really influence the ejection pattern with the shape of the ejector. Feel free to PM me if I can be of help since we are not far from each other.

Here are the directions to the range Oldretiredsarge, Directions to NTPS from Interstate 40 Exit 172 to Highway 46 North toward Dickson Travel 3.6 miles and turn left onto Beasley Rd. (past Wal-Mart) Take Beasley 1.4 miles and turn left onto Highway 48 Take Highway 48 1.2 miles and turn right onto West Piney Take West Pines 2.9 miles, the road makes a hard right turn and becomes Coon Creek Take Coon Creek 1.4 miles The range is on the left at 990 Coon Creek. The entrance is a gravel road just past a 2 story white sided house GPS Coordinates: N36.0625 W87.4834

I'm still guessing it's the trigger bow. Take the top end off. Take the mag release out of the gun and then insert a mag and see if you still get resistance.

I would never bend the bow without a stirrup. You can take a file to it but as I said before, I would want to put it on a stirrup to make sure it is straight first. I've seen more than one new trigger from the factory needing straightened.

Well, I would want to put it on a trigger stirrup and make sure everything is straight first, but you can remove material as well. It probably wont take much.

It's usually one of 3 areas...........2 of which you have new parts. 1. Slide stop and magazine follower relationship. Sometimes the follower will roll up on the slide stop enough to hold the mag there. 2. Trigger bow is a tad too narrow and is putting friction on the sides of the mag. 3. Mag release is making contact with the mag when mag release is pushed. It seems to be pointing toward the trigger bow since it seems to work with the trigger pressed. But without the gun in my hand it's hard to say for sure.