timcalhoun

He's such a wannabe hack.......

MSSA is having a classifier match Feb 5th. If you need to get classified you can get it done in one match. Memphis Sport Shooting Association

Virgil Tripp (cobra mags) researched and developed what he thinks is the best 1911 mag in the world ( I pretty much agree). The ETM mags are a copy of his tube design and then uses the Wilson follower and their lip dimensions.

The 30-06 is rimless. BTW I'm not saying that you can't get them to run they are just more sensitive to magazine design/spring pressure and capacity.

Yep been around a long time. 38 special too. I just hate the idea of using a rimmed case in a magazine. 38 super being semi-rimmed can be tricky enough and is why 38 super comp and 38 TJ (Todd Jarrett) was created.

We were asked if we could hold some rifle matches in addition to our usual USPSA matches, so here we go. This will happen after first gun on the 14th (around noon). Some stages will be shot rifle only and some will start with rifle and end with pistol. You can see the stages on the other match thread. We will still have pistol only squads on Saturday second gun, but in addition we will have Rifle/Pistol squads as well. I'm going to pick up one of those evil black rifles myself and see what I can do.

I also heard that they are going to host monthly USPSA matches on the 4th weekend starting in February? Any news on that???

You could bring it to my shop if it is not too far. PM me if you want.

My sons and I had a good day quail hunting!!!

That will work just fine. I mostly ran that grit @ 90psi.

I use glass bead and it does a great job taking old bluing off etc... I use a medium size bead and it is just aggressive enough to remove bluing or to matte stainless steel to a beautiful finish. My shop vac works great to keep the dust down.

Harbor freight has some pretty cheap options for blasting cabinets. The air compressor is probably even more important than the cabinet itself. Bead blasting eats air like crazy, so you really need a compressor that can keep up. I got a harbor freight stand up cabinet and bought a really good compressor (80 gallon 2 stage). Works great!!!

First, any round that is pushed back in the case get rid of. Bullet set back will cause the case pressure to go through the roof and very bad things can happen. You may want to try putting one round in the mag, chamber that. Then fill the mag up and then put it in the gun. That will really help with the bullet deforming.

My wife says the length of the barrel doesn't matter. I think she might be lying though.

FUNNY!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdxrlszhRFc&feature=player_embedded

No, but I have the Browning coming as soon as they ship. It's 85% full size, and all 1911 except there was no need for link down. It will be my youngest sons first 22. http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/family.asp?webflag_=028B&catalog_=B

Ionbond. It's a little more expensive than some but I have seen nothing wear nearly as well.

If the bow is allowed to travel too far back it can/will put pressure on the sear spring. The sear spring is what puts pressure on the sear and of course catches the hammer. So as you start to take pressure off the sear you will start to get hammer follow or yes bursts. Often with a heavier trigger it wont show up unless you are excited for some reason and trying to get shots of quickly.

There is no "pre-travel" screw, but it needs to be adjust as well. It has tabs in the front of the bow to adjust it. The geometry of the bow itself can change where it bottoms out in the trigger channel. Most of the time you have plenty, but then your pre-travel is really long.

First if you take the over-travel screw out...... Best case scenario - Your over-travel is as long as it can be and therefore makes your reset long too. Worst case scenario - Your hammer starts to follow or you get 2-3 round burst or conceivably full auto ( seen it and fixed it for folks many times). A trigger with an over-travel screw was designed to be used with it, the specs are not mil-spec. The shoe was designed with the screw in mind and often the bows are longer. As far as just measuring the screw.......that might work, but why not just learn how to do it properly so it's not just a shot in the dark (pun intended). Moreover, you need to know that the pre-travel is correct too. If it is wrong, the half cock notch may not work as designed and that can be dangerous. If you contact me via phone I will walk you through the procedure. This way you know that you know the gun is safe.

Probably won't work. Triggers are all a little different and will (most of the time) greatly change where the over-travel screw will end up.

Be very careful. It's not that hard to do but it is a must that the over-travel screw be adjusted properly. You can ruin your sear/hammer hooks. You can go full auto depending on where the shoe bottoms out. You also need to know how to check that there is enough reset/pre travel and what those numbers are. You need at least .035+ pre-travel for your safety notch on the hammer to function properly. You need enough over-travel so that the sear clears the hammer hooks completely. It really needs to be done right. Almost nothing on a 1911 is "drop in".

Here is stage 5 with my son shooting. Awesome day!!

For a black finish, Ionbond is by far the best product I have ever seen or used. Amazing stuff.

It would have to mean that he is carrying that many rounds.............. Evidently, kimbers wont run that many rounds. Lumber Jack you KNOW I'm kidding.