timcalhoun

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M&P shield plus!!! Includes everything in the pics plus it has the APEX trigger kit installed. I bought it and immediately did all the upgrades (Dot, Trigger kit), then shot just over 400 rounds to establish 100% reliability. The only reason I'm selling is that I've decided to shoot USPSA carry optics and I'm going to a Sig. So, I always carry the same platform that I shoot in competition. CT dot that is a co-witness set up so you can see both the dot and iron sights simultaneously. Apex trigger kit installed. MAJOR IMPROVEMENT over the stock trigger. Four 13 round mags plus one 10 round. IWB kydex holster. 700.00 obo

It shortened the reset considerably and the break is much cleaner too. Coming from great 1911/2011 triggers I feel that this is totally doable.

So just a quick review of the apex trigger for the shield plus. So the factory trigger in the shield plus was not completely awful but it was still bad. So I got the 165 dollar apex kit and installed it. On the plus side : The break and reset is MUCH better On the minus side: Both the trigger spring and sear spring in the kit are worthless if you're trying to reduce weight. According to my trigger pull gauge it was breaking at about 6lbs 11oz with the apex springs. Called apex and they suggested that I put in the original springs. Brought the pull weight to 4lbs 14oz. So tolerable.... Anyway.....there ya go. I haven't shot it yet but I don't expect any light primer strikes at almost 5lbs.

When you think about the recent history of the 1911 you have consistently seen manufacturers about 15-20 years behind competition guns. Most of the mods done by Bill Wilson for competition found its way to major manufacturers a decade or more later. This is yet another example of them catching up. When I first built open guns for USPSA it was blatantly obvious that the dot was by far the biggest factor in fast and accurate shooting. Back then the technology wasn't quite there to make it completely possible (although there were work arounds) but now were pretty much there. As far as this gun is concerned, I would want the slide flat topped and the sights not so high and tucked down into your grip with co-witness. Would take more weight out of the gun and further reduce muzzle rise. Love the double undercut trigger guard though!!!

I'm currently not doing them, just not enough hours in the day.…..   There are several places that will do them Bowie tactical I think???  

    For the gun nerd in you….. THE BROWNING HIGH-POWER The browning high-power that we all know and love is not the high-power that John Browning designed. When John started the design, the 1911 patents were held by Colt. So John had to start from scratch and submitted his high-power for patent in 1923. John died in 1926 before it was completed. At that point FN handed the project to Deiudonne Saive. He was the designer of the double stack magazine that they would use for the 9mm. In the meantime the Colt 1911 patents expired allowing Saive to incorporate many of the 1911 attributes. So we can't call it John's design, but certainly it is a soup of John's genius. Check out the patent. His high power was striker fired and checkout how the barrel came in and out of battery. Gaston Glock obviously borrowed much from John….. https://www.google.com/patents/US1618510…  

I've cut down frames from full to officers… They don't make an officers 2011 so I've built several officers starting from the full size grip. totally possible… fwiw

http://www.hogueinc.com/grips/1911/gov/g10/thick

  That's the issue then. The Wilson sear is longer than your stock sear. EGW, Wilson Extreme etc.. will all be a little longer but still are in spec. However, your guns slide to frame relationship are out just enough that it can't cock the gun. 

  I totally get it. As long as it's safe and you are happy with the trigger…..nothing else matters.   It's funny when I hear this kind of stuff I want to work on the gun just to figure what is going on……I don't have time to do that……..but I want to. LOL   Glad it worked out for you.

It probably has nothing to do with the sear. It is the related parts I'm betting.

What is wrong with the wilson sear?

Backing out the overtravel screw all the way is often not a good idea at all. Triggers with overtravel screws are not mill spec type triggers with a screw added for adjustment. Often it is possible that if you back out the overtravel screw too far it will allow the trigger bow to actually make contact with the sear spring taking pressure off sear Itself and causing hammer follow. Depending on the trigger it may be fine but often they can cause trouble. You can check that at the same time with the grip safety out though.

As dolomite said, first thing is the check your sear spring pressure. Just because it's right with one hammer and sear set does not mean that it is OK with another. Should have about 16 ounces of pre-travel and the rest should be on the sear. 3-5 pounds total usually. It's easy enough to check if it's your disconnector. Remove your grip safety, pull the slide back slightly so that the disconnector/stripper rail is depressing the disconnector. Look at the sear and disconnector and see if there is distance between the bottom of the sear legs and the pad on the disconnect. If so it's not the disconnecter. I have seen guns where the slide will not push back/down on the hammer far enough to cock it with different sears and hammer combos. So cock the hammer, walk the slide back and see if the slide actually is pushing down on the hammer. It doesn't happen often but it's worth a check. You also have to make sure that you have enough pre-travel and over travel in your trigger. That can also change with different sear and hammer combinations. If that is not correct you can have all kinds of issues .