Omega

A T10C parachute was designed to carry 400lbs(ish) at around 22-24 FPS rate of decent. The heavier you were, the faster you fell (and harder you hit); I was about 180lbs, with a 75lb ruck, and as I was always the "lucky one" chosen to carry the M60, extra ammo for the M60, the radio with accompanying equipment or some other darn weapon or piece of one which would inch me ever so close to that magic 400lbs. Momentum played a part upon exiting the door or ramp because the C-130 (or what ever) was traveling at (hopefully) 150 Knots so you would continue the forward throw for a bit.

Exactly, a heavy object would make a difference on air resistance and the only way to mitigate it is to distribute the weight evenly. Of course if said object was large also, it would add it's own resistance as well. I know that when I jumped "Hollywood" vs combat equipment my landing was much softer.

Actually, a block of steel would make you fall faster, not beyond terminal velocity, but faster than without. It's all about the wind resistance, that's why many free fall parachutists will wear a jumpsuit. When falling, you slow your progress by spreading your body out, by tucking your arms to your side you get closer to terminal velocity. That's why the old joke about a lb of feathers and a lb of rocks is wrong unless both are in a sack. A "fall retardation" parachute will not only slow the bomb down, but also stabilize it so it does not tumble, and also helps the guidance system overcome terminal velocity.

While active duty I was racking up the air miles, I seldom had the opportunity to accept any offers because they were always on the way out and I had a timeline to meet. But, in my experience all overbooking matters were handled before boarding, and in a manner which benefited those that volunteered to be bumped. I have been driven to another airport due to canceled flights, been given room and meal tickets when connections have been missed (airlines fault) and on a couple rare occasions had free flights. Only once have I been asked to come off an airplane, and that was the entire plane, the entire concourse for that matter, a passenger had gone around security and boarded so we all got inconvenienced then. It amazes me that airlines are allowed to overbook, but will charge for changing or cancelling flights unless you buy the trip insurance up front. How about selling more standby flights, at least then you know you may not get on. I think United will take a hit, but also agree that they will just pay and be done with it..probably covered by their insurance anyway.

No, the proper solution was to deal with the overbooking before boarding. Once boarded, there should be no reason to get off unless it is a security issue. They also need to figure out the crew assignments better, how is it that the crew could not take another flight, or a 4hr bus trip for that matter. If crew rest would of been impacted, then they should of been sent off the day before.

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/04/07/breaking-civilian-marksmanship-program-receive-86000-m1-garand-rifles-philippines/ M1 Garand Rifles will hopefully be available through the CMP in larger numbers in the near future, you should have enough time to meet eligibility requirements and fill out your paperwork through the CMP.

Meh, I own a few Maglight flashlights, a bunch of PVC, a few 2-liter bottles heck and even some potatoes that can be made into silencers if I really wanted. All have legal uses and were/are a primary reason for their purchase and there is no letter that can change that fact. I also own two Sig braces, which the ATF waffles back and forth on, I just refuse to live life worrying about what the ATF may do. With all the solvent traps out there, we would have to build a bunch of new prisons to hold everyone if they decided to arrest all who own one. If they change their mind, I am sure it will be like the ATI GSG-522 barrel shroud, a recall will be done and then you can chose to comply or not. http://www.gun-tests.com/news/news/ATI-American-Tactical-Imports-GSG-barrel-shroud-recall_11856-1.html#.WOvgB6p1oqI

Are any of these quiet? The ones I have seen still seem to be quite noisy. I seen a video of someone hunting pig with a big bore air rifle and it seemed quite, more so than a silencer. I'm not at big bore yet, but am interested in taking squirrel and other vermin quietly.

It already gets submitted, but yes there is an element out there that won't care for it. I'm with you on the Constitutional Carry, I get tired of hearing about TN being "Free" and pro gun, pro outdoorsman yet have all these laws shot down at the starting gate.

Why, the no-buy list of course. Once a permit is pulled, by adjudication, then it's probably a safe bet they did something to put them on the list.

They are perfectly legal as is. But file a Form 1 and you can turn it into a legal silencer, or wait on the Hearing Protection Act.

Screw all that, why is there so much infringement on the 2nd when the 1st can be as, or more, dangerous than the 2nd? I don't support background checks, none period. Instead of hassling EVERY law abiding citizen when buying a gun, why not a list of those not allowed to buy guns such as the no-fly list? If they run your ID and you are not on a list, no background check and no fee. If you are on a list, by name, then a background check to make sure it is you that can't purchase one and not someone with your name. BTW, it should be by court order that your name appears on said list, not by some random organization and no adjudication. Hassle the criminals, make it a harsher sentence if they are caught using weapons for crimes, or in possession if not allowed to have one. At this point though, I do think it should be an option to have access to TICS, for those that want the extra security blanket when selling a gun in a personal transaction, but not made mandatory. And, instead of having us pay a fee to use TICS, it should be free because it is an infringement on our rights. If the state wants to infringe, then it should cost them to do so, not having us pay for that "privilege"

Yea, I seen it some time back. I knew about bluing steel, but I always thought if aluminum got dinged you were SOL, so was glad when I found this stuff. Before I just used black paint. This stuff works ok: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/707229/birchwood-casey-aluminum-black-metal-touch-up

Yea, I can get another weapon or three for that much. If I were to buy a machine, I'd probably get this one for $275: http://www.annealeez.com/

No, but it may work, but for blemishes I would try cold bluing instead, the lacquer probably doesn't do much for anti-rust.

For the skull, I'd use this: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/engraving-tools-supplies/inlay-color-fill-sticks/lacquer-stik--prod7778.aspx Easy to use and lasts quite a bit, been on mine for years.

Perfectly good way to do a pan full, the spinning method just lets you do more than a pan full of cases at a time. As long as the method keeps you from heating the base, you're golden. I first started that way back pre-www, a...shall we say, well seasoned, reloader taught me that little trick back in the 80s. Once you do a few k, you might even begin to just "know" by the orange glow of the case mouth and not even count anymore, at least not consciously.

I do it that way, get some 475 tempilaq or a tempilstik to mark just under the neck, when it starts melting, drop it in water to stop the heat from going further down. Count the seconds you are in the flame, do it a few times making sure the drill spins at the same speed, a bit slow, and you are in the same part of the flame. Once you feel you have the rhythm down, just count seconds. I suggest you use three or four expendable cases to get your rhythm down, you don't want to reload any that have the base annealed. And always start with the cases at room temperature, and dry. Also, do this again if changing calibers, and maybe even headstamps.

I use the 165gr gold dots in mine, they will do the job just fine.

Actually, that pic is not as bad as I have seen used to find the perp in other instances. I bet they get him, if someone knows them they will be able to ID them easy enough with these pics.

The thing is, if he is set on making you a victim, he will be more inclined to shoot first then take your stuff if he knows you are armed. If a person can be deterred, then just acknowledging his presence may be enough, that is being situationally aware not staring him down. If he is looking for an easy score, then he wants the element of surprise on his side.

Depends on the manner in which you expose your weapon, it may be seen as brandishing by some and an overzealous LEO may agree if called. Personally, I would not show my weapon until I was ready to pull the trigger.

Link? All I see are the abrasive and reciprocating blades close to that size.

Some guys on another forum were talking about the Harbor Freight chop saw many use to cut their brass cases with and one of the guys found a blade that leaves a much smoother cut than the standard blade that comes with it. The problem was that it was about $20. Another posted a link to a similar blade (both US made) that was cheaper but shipping made it as much as the Amazon supplied blade. So, I offered to foot the initial cost of 10-20 of them from Malco Saw and mail them out when I get them, then divide the total between us ($9.87 if 10 $9.17 if 20) then add actual shipping from me in TN, can't be more than a couple/three dollars to mail, and better if you want multiples as it will only go up slightly for shipping. I am cutting this close here (gave them until tomorrow midnight) but thought that maybe some of you may want to get in on it as well. Here are the links to the Malco blade and the HF blade, as well as the F&D blade for comparison. One guy that uses the F&D got about 21K cases cut before needing to replace the blade, second blade is still good but needs new saw. Original Blade P/N and specs Price if you were a distributor (does not sell direct): 15397-J156 2" blade .020 thick, 3/8 arbor hole, 24tpi, 152teeth $13.81 This one seems to be the same as the Amazon one $8.36 +$15.14 shipping (goes up to $16.20 after 12ea): http://www.malcosaw.com/ecom/product/11/1019/ Amazon $21.40 +shipping unless Prime member or over $35: http://a.co/0suyUSu Harbor Freight $9.99 (no coupon): http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-2-inch-cut-off-wheels-42805.html

At that weight, I'm guessing they're for subs right? I'd help but I too don't have a can yet.