Omega

While I would not chance that particular scenario, I wouldn't let the fact that I had a beer or two keep me from defending me or mine. I wonder if anyone who was involved in a home invasión (home owner) ever been tested for alcohol and drugs, and been charged if positive? I would think that self defense would trump that charge.

Make it a pistol, with a good sling it is rather stable and if you make it ADA capable with a Sig Brace well, its very stable. That way you can put on whatever barrel size you want.

I went to harbor freight for my trailer tool box, fairly cheap considering the others: http://www.harborfreight.com/35-inch-steel-trailer-tongue-box-66244.html http://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-60302.html I went with the more expensive one, but with the 20% coupon it was less than $100. More than 4 years and the only thing that didn't hold up is the paint but a quick rattle can paint job will fix that.

Though he's a comedian, an Australian at that, it doesn't make it funny; specially when you consider that many take his statements to heart. But they haven't taken all their "facts" into account: http://johnrlott.blogspot.com/2012/08/some-notes-on-claims-about-australias.html

Sort of broke back mountain.

Looking at some laminated boards that have the skin peeled off, they just have lines of some red glue that were holding it together.  None of the ones I have seen have had an even spread of glue, though it wouldn't hurt to do it that way I suppose. If its going to have edge and corner protectors the skin should stay put either way as long as the glue sets properly.  If you want to use the proper glue you may want to give one of the trailer builders a call, they may just tell you what they use.

+1 for The Captain, she has good clean lead in either range scrap or wheel weight ingots and her prices are right close to $1 a lb.

I looked at those when the aluminum lowers were at their peak in price but decided against them, just not a big fan of them.  Now that many aluminum ones can be had for cheap I can't see an upside to them except maybe perhaps some weight but even that is negligible.  If they were the 80% type then maybe you can list that as a positive but so many aluminum lowers can be had via private sale that even that would not be much of a selling point then considering that aluminum 80% ones are also getting a bit cheaper I would not go for it.

I agree, I don't see it as a bad thing to let others know you would like a place to shoot, hunt, fish etc.  If you have a place and want to offer, then great, otherwise the request goes unfilled.  As for the liability portion, (any legal guys/gals here) would a waiver such as many ranges have you sign: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/5181a265e56d2/web, be sufficient to release an owner of liability?  I would think so especially since not a commercial prospect; I know there is a waiver for sporting purposes and such which was recommended if leasing land to hunters, I figure it would be ok for some non-commercial range time as well.

While I'm sure you could get both here in Clarksville,  why would you leave Memphis for them where they are both much more available.  I have noticed an uptick lately in shootings here, but when the shooters are identified they are not someone legally allowed to own a gun in the first place. And though a couple of them have domestic, most have been near government housing and "party" related.

MOLLE is the only attachment system I have seen in over 10 years.  The only thing that has seen any "improved" are some of the methods of attachment such as molle sticks and molle lok but those only come on a few pieces of equipment such as the IOTV for the adjusters and a few webbing cutter pouches which have a plastic lock system.  IMHO the molle straps with stiffeners are the best, though harder to weave through they provide a sturdy attachment and since they are not plastic they dont get brittle and break.  

All politics,  if they receive nothing they donate nothing.  While I disagree with the Brady campaign and their tactics I have to admire the way they do things.  If they win, they advance their cause, if they lose they are not held liable.  You can't get blood from a turnip so I doubt anyone will end up paying much if anything.

They do not sue in their name, they get others to file with their financial support: http://www.bradycampaign.org/our-impact/resources/current-cases-against-gun-dealers 

Here are two in the immediate vicinity The first is a Gerber, it may still be the one issued. The second says Asek on one side and Ontario on the other. I think it's an updated pilot survival knife withe the leather sheath I had in the 80s. As shown, they both have molle straps, and leg straps but I never used those. The only thing I strapped on my leg was my M9, and that only while on mission otherwise just a hip holster while in civies.

I'd be careful,  I tried the flush and it did not work out for me.  A couple of days after I tried the flush, I had to go into the ER in extreme pain and a fever.  I had a sonogram which showed stones so they immediately checked me in for surgery the next morning.  Apparently the flush just washed a large stone into the duct which lodged.  They made a couple of small incisions and used some scope to get the gall bladder out.  Apparently the flush sort of soaks into the stone which makes them a bit softer and bigger, it also coats it in a slimy skin and flushes it out of your system.  If the stones are smaller, sand or pea size then it may work fine but mine were almost marble sized so the duct was not large enough to pass them.  The surgery itself was fine, but the nurse or whoever intubated me sliced my throat so had a sore throat for a few weeks afterward.  The docs warned me to cut back on spicy food and a few other things but I mainly eat the same as always.

I mostly used a benchmade folder, my fixed blade was usually left in its sheath.  Our ALSE section would issue various knives so I carried whatever knife du jour was issued.  I remember carrying a kabar, an M9 (Buck)  bayonet, a pilot survival knife, a gerber survival knife and another I forget the brand of but its in a drawer someplace. The latest few had molle straps but all always had a 550 safety.  Most times I would place them on the side of my pack with the handle down but on a few occasions I would have it attached to my vest.  I'll try and drag out a few for pics later.

Like these: http://www.omnimap.com/catalog/cats/fish/fish-tn.htm?136,151 or these: http://www.kentuckyhydrografx.com/   The last ones are pretty good maps, shows all the bottom structures but I don't know if they show the specific areas you are looking for.  I use google earth to plan then the fishfinder to indicate when I am over a structure I want to fish.

Epic.

.308 is not a bad choice, but I have used a .270 Winchester for a long time and have found that I can hunt any North American game animal with this caliber.  At present I have a Weatherby Vanguard .270 bolt which is their cheaper rifle but before that one I had a Winchester which was a Ranger Model but again a cheaper version of the Model 70 (cheaper furniture) which served me well for 20 years.  I hunt with both the .308 and .270 at my place since range is no greater than 150 yards which is great for these but not so good for a slug gun, they just have too much drop.  Same goes for that venerable cartridge, the 30-30 Win, it just has too much drop. Anything in larger or in a magnum IMHO is just too much gun, specially for white tail but if that is all you got, they work too.   I know I mentioned some brands above but honestly most any rifle chambered in those calibers are good to go, as any brand can have an individual rifle that is either a tack driver or a lemon.  Just be sure to inspect the chamber, bore and crown as defects there can affect accuracy.

Yea, but then some clown would steal it.

Too old to try and relearn a new method, specially since I have no need of it. As for the guys reasoning,  I don't cover the ejection port anyway even when I need to unload a squib.  I just eject it onto a surface such as a table or a clear spot on the ground.

When we had the M16s, they always had those wooden q-tips and pipe cleaners for us, just no picks, we cut wire hangers and smashed or sharpened the ends to make our own.  We cleaned the gas key with q-tips and the end of the gas tube with pipe cleaners after scraping out the carbon with the "picks" without any issues.  Of course, back then they hadn't quite realized that a rifle was almost always loosing bluing so wouldn't pass the clean swab test easily.  When we used the M16A2 to the M4s, the solvent tank became popular, and the q-tips disappeared, you had to get some from the medics if you were old school.

Of the choices you have listed I voted for the handi. The 300 Blackout is not as expensive if you roll your own, many projos that will work for it in either pulldowns or cast. But not a fan of the company right now so I have been eyeballing this one : http://www.ruger.com/products/americanRifleRanch/models.html Yes, that is a threaded barrel; that info is hard to come by in the literature.

I do, as I do all my guns that I don't use often.  When I put them back in the safe I clean them and put a generous amount of wet lube on them since I don't know when Ill be at them again.  Rem oil works ok, but it does not stand up to the elements as well as other products I use so it is relegated to my sharpening stone for the small bottle and my spray is saved for fishing reels and any other thing that I don't want to tear down but needs a bit of lube.  I have a multitude of gun lubes available and can't say there is one I go to for any specific purpose, I have even sprayed WD40 on one at the range so not really sold on any one lube, but I do try and use dry lube on my EDC due to the dust and lint that accumulates on them every now and then.

Exactly why I bought my can, my Rugger was a PITA to disassemble until I got the hang of it.