mike_f

Ours don't still have the original furniture. They are modernized with Ultimaks, polymer handguard & pistol grips, and Bulgarian folding triangle stocks. The original furniture is probably around here somewhere. Still have one unbuilt Romy G kit w/ matching serial Nodak receiver.

You're welcome. My son and I both have AK's made from Romy G kits and I looked at their front sights to see how far down they were in the front sight base. Here are some phone pics: Is your front sight higher than this?

If you can maybe post a photo of the front sight so we can see how far it's sticking out? I think the threaded portion of the front is split (& usually bent out slightly) to provide resistance against it moving after is has been adjusted. I might not have a clear understanding of what's going on; but if it's shooting low with the front & rear sights adjusted down and far as it will go, can't you just raise the rear sight? If you've tried a variety of ammo and it all shoots low with the rear sight on whatever yardage (meter-age?) you're shooting at with the front sight adjusted as far down as it will go, maybe consider carefully filing down the front sight.

I'm just a civilian nobody that took the class about 5 or 6 years ago. I didn't/don't have any way to make money being a Glock Certified Armorer, not even sure what the market is for that. All that being said, I'm glad I took the class. It was an enjoyable day, learned to be fairly efficient disassembling/assembling Glocks. I don't remember learning any super secret armorers-only info. They also hand out a nice, lay-flat, spiral bound manual with all the stuff you learn. You also get to buy parts directly from Glock for the 3 years your certification is valid (not that important anymore since there are several other places to get them). I didn't renew it after my 3 years was up. I just work on my & immediate family's Glocks (in the rare event that something needs attention). But I know that I was taught the official way to do it, which gives me piece of mind. Can you get the same info for free on YouTube (at least for the next couple of days)? Probably.

Further info from the book about replacement barrels: "If the barrel was replaced, the identifying marking of the arsenal or depot doing the work was stamped on the new barrel. Spare barrels manufactured in 1955 or later have the last digit of the diameter of the bore stamped close to the muzzle. Rifles which were sighted in with spitzer-bulleted m/41 ammunition were stamped with the height of the front sight post on the left side of the front sight base, and a "T" on the right side of the front sight base." So maybe look for those markings to get an indication of barrel replacement.

Looks like a very faint crown on the right (as your photo is oriented) and more distinct crown on the left. The book says the first crown on the wrist of the stock is the initial testing and sighting in. Subsequent crowns indicate re-inspection. Certain workshops had letters associated with additional crown stamps which "usually means the rifle was rebarrelled at a particular arsenal or refurbishing station". Also, "the first time a rifle went to an armourer for inspection, a punch mark was often placed on the trigger guard. A second similar mark would often be placed if a minor repair was made." I haven't been able to find punch marks on the trigger guards of the 2 rifles I have.

Many times the refurb stamps on the Swedes are on the bottom of the stock between the trigger guard and the rear sling swivel. Usually a series of crowns and maybe letters. Some crown stamps are original inspection, some are refurb markings. Would have to see the a photo of them to make a guess. I'm no expert either, but I'd guess walnut by grain of the wood, although it is rather light in color. According to the book "Crown Jewels, The Mauser in Sweden", until 1915 all original stocks on Swedish M94 carbines & M96 rifles were French walnut. So it would be interesting to see what the markings on the bottom of the stock are.

In the past couple of years I've bought a 4 of Aero Precision and 2 Mega stripped forged uppers. The Areo uppers were one snug, one loose, and two slightly loose with 4 different barrels. Both Mega uppers were snug. I bought the Megas based on recommendations on the 68Forum from Harrison at AR Performance (and others too). Mega was recently bought by Zev (the $2,000 Glock people), so they're now sold as Zev uppers. Unfortunately, it also looks like they're charging Zev-level prices for them now.

I want to thank you for posting this so many years ago. We still dip our clothes and I haven't had a tick latch on to me in years. No ill effects to us or our clothes. Last year while backpacking in Montana, we were surrounded by a cloud of mosquitoes (literally) and neither of us had a single bite.

Great looking work! How did you finish the wood for vanity use (wondering about frequent water exposure & scratch resistance)?

Growing up this was my Daisy, I literally wore it out. Picked up nice condition one a few years ago and had it rebuilt, works like new.

With respect to being a male wedding participant (really at any level): Walk a fine line between appearing disinterested and actually expressing an opinion. Ask leading questions until you think you know what they want hear (this also makes you appear interested). Remember that just because something was decided today doesn't mean it can't change tomorrow (and the next day, etc.) Try not to take any of it personally. We were married about 10 years before I felt reasonably safe in saying any of this in front of my lovely wife.

The website gun.deals has a page dedicated to Black Friday Sale info that includes the major sporting goods retailers, Walmart, Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc. https://gun.deals/black-friday

My son has used "Make Nashville" to complete a couple of projects: http://makenashville.org/

Where I worked in the 80's did groundwater monitoring for DuPont. Part of it included wells around the site of the powder plant. I was told it was demolished as part of the WWI armistice. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I'm not a knife connoisseur, nor a chef. We've had various Cold Steel kitchen knives for about 30 years. Bought the set in your link about 15 years ago. Our most recent purchase of them was about 3 years ago. They're relatively inexpensive and my wife loves them. We also have German and Cutco kitchen knives. My wife bought 3 Cutco knives and spent over $400. Maybe if you made your living using kitchen knives it would be worth the price, but its not to me. The biggest down side for the Cold Steel knives is that most of them are serrated, so difficult to sharpen at home. It's been a while since I sent any in, but Cold Steel used to sharpen them for $7 including return shipping. I think I've sent knives back for sharpening twice in the last 30 years.

Assuming you meet all of the "normal" federal requirements, then by federal law, yes can buy a long gun from an FFL (no private sales) as long as its legal to own in TN (don't of any that wouldn't be). Don't know if MS has any state laws that are more strict that federal law. No pistols though. While a TN resident I have bought a rifle face-to-face from a dealer in Florida.

I have 3 Lancer L7AWM mags that I use in an Aero Precision M5 lower. Two translucent tan 20-rounders, and a smoke translucent 10-rounder. No problems with them locking in, feeding, holding the bolt open on the last round. I think only 1 of the 3 mags drop free from my lower. The Lancers are about twice the price of the PMags (which is why I only have 3 Lancer L7's). The primary mags I use in the M5 are 20-round PMags which do everything the Lancers do and all of them drop free. But if the PMags are not an option for your rifle, the Lancers seem to be good mags.

Wolff sells recoil & magazine springs: https://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=39 Don't know who makes aftermarket trigger springs.

Is it a commercial Russian Mak or a military one? If it's a military one, I'd be hesitant to do anything that couldn't be easily reversed. I prefer the rubber Pearce grips over the military one. But I'm left handed and the lanyard ring on the original grip pokes into my hand. The trigger pull on the one I have is actually pretty nice. Long, but smooth, double action and light, short single action. So I haven't used any aftermarket springs in it.

The ones that are similar on the table look like early and later versions of the South African R4 - basically a Galil copy. The one the guy is holding up looks like a SIG 550. The large barrel with the muzzle brake in the foreground looks like a Barrett M82A1. Don't know what the wood stocked rifle is immediately adjacent to the Barrett. ETA: the dark brown tubs on the table to the extreme left of the photo look like typical South African ammo containers.

Wow, very nice! Thanks for posting the pics & link.

I gave always admired those pistols; but have never, in person, seen an example in nice condition. The most polite way to put it is that they were "well worn" (little or no metal finish, grips worn almost smooth, etc.). So seeing some in good condition would be a treat.

I had a similar situation with my Pact 1 chrono (that I bought around 1990). On one range trip I was getting velocities about 100 fps faster that I normally had with the same loads, from the same guns, with the same chronograph. Since the chronograph was over 20 years old at that point, I called Pact to see if it need to be checked, recalibrated, or something similar. The gentleman I spoke with said, on the Pact 1 anyway, that there wasn't any calibration or adjustments required or possible. So I asked about out of spec/low batteries and was told that it either works or it doesn't - if it turns on and runs then the batteries aren't a problem.

Thanks.