Grayfox54

Ammoseek.com is the place to go anytime you need ammo prices.

Actually it was the other way around. Insurance adjuster tried to screw me, the contractor saved my butt.

Roofing ain't cheap! But the actual cost depends a lot on the amount of damage, if wood needs replacing and if there is interior ceiling damage. Back in April I had to replace the roof on my 3 bed room 1600 sq ft house. In my case it was the result of damage from multiple storms over a period of several years until it finally started leaking into the house. The inspectors and the contractor found damage and some minor leakage that I didn't even know I had. It was much worse than I thought it was. The end result was a whole new roof, a fair bit of wood replacement and ceiling painting/repair in 4 rooms. Total costs ran about $6200. Insurance covered a good bit of it and I was out of pocket for about $1600. BTW: a good roofing contractor is worth their weight in gold. They are pros at handling insurance companies and the paperwork. Mine saved me a bunch of headaches.

My point of the pistol caliber is that I see this as a self defense type firearm to be used at fairly short range. The AR pistol configuration provides a steadier platform for longer shots if needed, but with a lower risk of penetrating walls and injuring the neighbors. I find the whole idea of cutting loose with rifle calibers in an suburban setting a bit unsettling. Besides, it'll likely never be used outside of the range. So I see the lower recoil and noise levels as a bonus. I don't know. I already have guns to cover everything from daily concealed carry to TEOTWAWKI. I really can't come up with any justification to buy this thing other than it might be fun to play with. I might aught to rethink this whole idea. I guess I'll just go to the gun show, see what they have, handle a few, check prices and see what mood strikes me.

Yep, that is true. Even just a few years ago when the Crown Vic was still THE police car, we got ours with a "police" package. About all that amounted to was rubber floor mats and a heavy duty electrical system to handle all the electronics cops use these days. However, Ford did include pre-wired harnesses for things like lights, computers, radios and such. That was good. A few years back when we were trying the Charger Police cars, I just happened to be the first on the scene at a traffic accident involving a city truck. A couple of minutes later, a patrol car came roaring in at a high speed. The damned Dodge's brakes were smoking so bad that I ignored the accident and went over to make sure the damned car wasn't on fire!

Chrysler sure ain't what they once was. When I was a kid my Mom had a thing for the Plymouth Fury III with the 383 engine. Big old land yacht that it was, it was a good choice for her business. I know she owned two, but maybe it was three. They served her well, but come tune-up time, changing that #8 spark plug was a real PITA! Changing that one plug took twice as long as changing the other seven and was guaranteed to result in blood and some serious cussin'. In the mid 70s I bought a used 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger with that nasty little 340 in it. I admit it was the fastest car I've ever owned, Good lookin' too. But it seemed like I spent more time fixing the damned thing than actually driving it. One week after I got it, the transmission went out. Thank God for 2nd owner warranties which my Dad was smart enough to add. When the dealer got through with it, he told me the only original part still in it was the case. It was a love/hate relationship at best and as soon as I got it paid off, it was gone. Now, after 42 years of turning wrenches, I wouldn't own a Chysler product of any kind and would strongly recommend against them. They are complete POSs these days. And yes, that includes the much praised Ram trucks. We tried them in our city fleet for a while and they wouldn't hold up. Also, when Ford discontinued the Crown Vic, we tried the Dodge Chargers as Police cars for a while. Same problem, they just can't hold up to that kind of work. JMHO: stay the Hell away from Chysler!

Lately I've been noticing a lot of AR pistols for sale around here. I'm beginning to like the idea. I really like the looks of one. Especially when decked out with Magpul furniture and a blade stock. I'm sorta gettin' an itch here and I'd like to know what the group here thinks about them. Many years ago when I was a young troop in Uncle Sam's Green Machine, my issue weapon for a while was a M3 Grease Gun. I really liked it. So the idea of a sub-gun sized weapon has a certain appeal to me. However, I think I'd prefer one in a pistol caliber. Either 9mm or .45acp. Being a 1911 type guy and with my previous experience with the M3, I'm leaning toward something in .45acp. I'm also a reloader, so ammo cost isn't really a decisive factor here. I've also heard that firing the 5.56 out of such a short barrel has a really nasty muzzle flash and is extremely loud. So another reason to go with a pistol caliber. However, there are several listed locally in 5.56 at what seem to be reasonable prices. So maybe I shouldn't rule them out? Also, it doesn't necessarily have to be a AR platform. Just something in that basic size and pistol type configuration. So I am open to suggestions. I've done a bit of checking around the web. PSA is currently out of everything in pistol calibers. Other guns often sell for $1000+. I don't want to spend that kind of money on what will pretty much be a range toy. So I'm open to suggestions. So tell me, what are your experiences with the AR type pistols? The good, bad and ugly? Caliber choices? Accuracy at say 100 yards? Worth it or a waste of money? BTW: there's a gun show here next weekend. I'd like to know what to look for or even if I should bother looking.

Garufa is dead on. You're mistaking the extractor for the ejector. The link he posted should cure your problem. Just be very careful and don't break it as its part of the frame and only the factory could fix it if broken. They may have to replace the frame as I think the part its welded to is molded in. If you're the least bit unsure about doing this, send it back to S&W. BTW: I did find a parts list on-line. They do not list an ejector at all. This seems to fit my theory that it is indeed part of the frame.

I'm not familiar with that particular pistol. But it does sound like and ejector problem to me. The empty case isn't clearing the chamber before the slide starts to pick up the next round. Could be a broken, worn or bent ejector. I'd check that first. Try putting an empty case in the chamber and slowly draw the slide back while watching exactly what the case does as it being pulled out. I would think that bending the ejector in just a tad might give the empty case a little more kick to throw it out quicker. Do this just a tiny bit at a time and test. Bending too far may break the ejector or cause interference with other parts. This is actually a common problem with older Marlin .22 rifles. In their case the ejector, which is part of the feed block, becomes worn and doesn't kick the case out fast enough. For them the cure is to replace the feed block with one that has the new style ejector. I know as I have done it.

Exactly how is it failing to eject? Round staying the chamber? Case not clearing the slide? Stovepipe? Which way is the case pointing when jammed and exactly where is it in the gun? Problem could be ejector or extractor or both. Need more info to troubleshoot properly. Actually, the best solution is to take it back to Bud's and see what they can do for you.

I like it.

Never trust your life to anything that requires a battery.

Well it doesn't matter anymore. Today is the last day CMP will accept applications. Tomorrow they start drawing numbers. All there is to do now is wait.

I believe you just can't have too many .22s. Marlin 99M1 Rossi 62A Ruger 10/22 Ruger 77/22 Winchester 9422 XTR Also sitting in my safe are two more Marlins. A 15YN and a 25N which belong to my two sons. These were their first rifles.

Cresent Arms Victor Ejector .410 single shot that my Dad gave me when I was about 10 or 11. It had belonged to a neighbor who broken the stock and just gave it to my Dad. Dad took it to an old man he knew who made a new stock for it. He then gave it to me. Ain't worth much, but I'll never part with it.

Ok, if I'm understanding this correctly, its legal to own, currently legal to shoulder, but that could change at any time? That about it?

Any details yet? I'd like to know what the warrant was for, why the guy chose to shoot it out and what weapon was used? This world has gone completely crazy and any resemblance to a civilized society is quickly circling the drain.

If you recall, last year I sold off my late friend's collection for his wife. He was real big into those old mil-surp guns. He had about six Mosins and a dozen SKSs along with quite a few other similar mil-surp guns. I sold all of these for double or triple what he paid for them and was still far enough under current retail that they went very quickly. The same goes for all the mil-surp ammo he had stockpiled. His investment paid off very well for his family. I'm afraid those days are over.

Ok, I'm not an AR guy. I own one, but I'm not really into the AR culture and don't know much about all the legalities involved. But I do kinda like the idea of a compact sub gun sized weapon. I've seen several ARs for sale with pistol length barrels equiped with the flat blade type stocks. Is this legal to own without a stamp? Wouldn't that be classed as a SBR? I get the Sig style brace as its designed to fit around your forearm. I also understand that it becomes illegal if you put it to your shoulder. Is that still correct? OTOH: I seen short barreled ARs with the blade type stocks and claims that its legal to put them to you shoulder like a regular rifle. There are lots of videos of people shooting these guns from their shoulder. I'm confused. Somebody please explain all this to me.

The issue with the older revolvers and +P ammo is the heat treatment of cylinders, frames and other parts. These older guns just aren't quite as strong as their newer counterparts. +P ammo won't make them blow up or anything dangerous. In fact, occasional use of +P is ok. But use of +P will accelerate normal wear and shorten the life of the gun. This is why its generally recommended to stick to standard loads in the older guns.

They did get good pictures of the bad guy's faces. I have no doubt they will be caught fairly quick. But those guns are probably long gone and will likely only be found one at a time as they show up in crimes.

These rifles are intended for close in work. I put an EOTech 512 on mine.

It doesn't. I said I already have several and don't need it. But I also said I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Heck, $200 ain't much money these days. If you decide you don't like it, you can always resell and probably at a small profit. If I was at your end of the state and it checked out mechanically, I snatch it up in a heartbeat just because of the price. Then I'd refinish it just for a fun project. And I already own several and have absolutely no need for it.

Its definitely a S&W Military and Police (M&P) Pre-Model 10. Its a 5 screw model and has the round front sight which was changed to a ramp in 1952. From the hammer shape, I'm guessing late 1940s - early 50s. Need a serial number to get any closer. If the bore and timing are good, $200 is a good price. I'd buy it. This one is just one of many, many shooter grade guns out there. Refinishing this gun won't hurt it any. In this case it would probably add to the value. S&W has made millions of M&Ps over the last 100+ years. True collector guns have to be in mint condition to attract any interest. BTW: I've had excellent results with Blue Wonder. Follow the instructions and you can get a really nice finish.