Sunfish

Wow Pete, That's a Frankin Mauser for sure. The step in the barrel is a normal military step. Measure the barrel length and tell me how long it is from the receiver to the crown? 44 BCD's should have a slot for a sight hood. Barrel may be different or the front sight sleeve may have been soldered on from an older version. The bands look to be from a Turk. I have a field gauge and a no go and would check it for you some weekend. I wouldn't worry about the #'s at this point. Did you get a receipt or bill of sale for it? Sunfish

I have used Federal GM210M a lot in just about everything that's in large rifle. You won't see a big difference but be sure to start low and work up. They seem to flatten out a little sooner than some and I always prime by hand and not the press arm.    

4895 or 4064 for the Garand and will work fine in 03. M2 Ball steps out around 3000 FPS. Bronze wool oiled will do wonders on light rust. Sunfish

It's hard to look like you don't have anything but I'm working on it.

Finding  a #'s matching K98K for a thousand dollars is nearly impossible. Miss-match non import parts guns are out there. I have a BNZ ghost that has been re-barreled  by the Yugo's that I would take $450 for. PM me if interested. If you are really interested in this kind of thing you should go ahead and get a C&R FFL its only $30 for three years. It allows you to ship and receive directly. Sunfish 

I was looking over the sear under magnification and watching how the parts interact and noticed a burr on the sear. I took it apart and smoothed it with sort of a homemade jig and it seems to be improved. Is the sear hard through and through or just on the surface?    

Order a new nut from FN and modify/weld a QD stud on it. You may have to make it a three piece deal and then put it together. Sunfish  

I woke up early and rubbed off the striker safety plate with a belt sander and then smoothed it. Put it all back together and bingo it resets like lightning and has a crisp feel about it. I would guess around 5+ lbs. The ejector is now milled off and installed to clear the thumb safety spring. Sunfish

I had a conversation with Kyle @ Springer and the problem is that the striker must be ground off so that it's slightly lower than the sear. He explained that they only see about 4 or 5 thumb safety models per year. He was not aware that their beefed up ejector had to be modified to clear the springs for the thumb safety.

Daniel, for what ever reason Jeff Walle was thrown into this thread I have no idea. I was talking about Sam. Although I did try to call Jeff and after pushing 4 and no answer I think it would be nice to set your voice mail as to when you will return and allow them an opportunity to leave a message. I have no beef with you or anyone who works at G&L. Sunfish  

As far as this past week you are also incorrect. If he was there the person at the counter lied and told me if I wanted to leave something they would make sure he got it. I was not going to do that without talking to him.

No I worked on it about 6 solid hours and in and outed everything over a dozen times. Finally I put the old sear and trigger bar back in with the new trigger spring and new sear spring. I also got the new firing pin and extra power striker spring in and working. The updated ejector is going to have to have a big hunk milled off because those thumb safety springs are in the way.   The striker safety plate and the sear are not working together. I could get it to click but no bang.  I also had to put a brass shim between and the sear and the firing pin along with locking the slide open and pushing the striker safety lever backwards to get the slide back off. The sear is way off. The new trigger bar has no where near enough travel to make the sear drop and I worked off quite a bit. In my opinion either the trigger bar or the sear is wrong. I suspect the sear. I may call the guys at Powder River and talk to them. There is a good reason they don't make kits for the Thumb Safety model I'm just not sure what it is. Sunfish   

After a 30 mile trip for nothing He does not work on Weekends or Wednesday. I finally touched the right piece and it slid off.

Trying to put my new parts in my XD I put the slide back on and now I can't get it off. I'm able to trip the sear but still can not figure out why it wont go forward. It was a terrible mistake to put the new trigger bar in and reassemble it. If anyone has any ideas on what to do I would appreciate it. Sunfish 

The new trigger bar is a solid milled piece. From what I gather there is two places where material has to be removed. The sear looks really good.  I'm in for $261.40 now for the kit, ejector and extra power striker spring, pin punch set and firing pin. I really hope this turns out well and I'm going to take the time to get it rite. Thanks to all for the reassuring words. Sunfish           

I feel like I can do the install on this but would like to hear from another what to expect. The video's are helpful but show a XDM. Mine is a XD with thumb safety and brand new. Any Springfield mechanics lurking around? I really appreciate any help or leads. Thanks Sunfish      

The reason most people nickel plate stuff is because the gun was ruff. Nickel is soft compared to chrome. If you could get the nickel off and smooth it to 320 or better you could rust blue it. I bet it's loose in the side rails as well. I'm thinking you should just buy a new one for the time and money your going to have in it. If it shoots good like it is use it for a hide out in your house

It really does not make any difference. Shoot your enemy until he gets a funny look on his face and then shoot him some more. The US Army needs higher capacity magazines. 

(300 WSM) once fired in your rifle. I would go with neck sizer as your brass will last much longer and should be more accurate. Dies are generally much harder than anything your going to push into them. Grit is not your friend 

Pedestrians have the right of way but he should have been smart enough to take the child's hand and wait. Anytime your backing up and touch anything or anyone you are at fault. People today want you to hit them. This is evident by the # of people looking down at their phones while walking through busy parking lots. It's also pretty clear when you are sitting with your back up lights on trying to back out and some jerk stops directly behind you for no reason but to push your buttons.

Your sizer die is not pushing the shoulder back far enough.

They don't kick that hard. Be sure to learn how to clean up behind corrosive ammo. It's no big deal to do and bang away

You can take ATF and acetone and make penetrating oil that will creep. Just remember to shake it up before using. This stuff will leak out of a metal oil can at the seams so keep it in a plastic bottle