platham

The A400s are sweet, That Being said, I've got a auto 20 gauge that I like a lot. The beretta Urika AL391. I haven't price checked them recently and they may be discontinued. I got mine 10 years ago. But hey are sweet shooting guns without a doubt

I've heard that buds in pigeon forge has them cheap, a bit far but a good excuse for a vacation

That is awesome !

I've got one I love, have a 14" super 14 barrel in 30-30, a 10" .357 barrel (both are scoped) and a 16.5" 45-70 barrel which I put a stock on and will be using for deer

My safe is electronic only (no key or anything that I can find), I bought it cheap, and when I get out of college and get a decent job I'm getting a nice safe with both electronic and dial for that exact reason, use the key pad for day to day and the dial for back up. And someone said something about being easy to get into a lot of safes these days....it really is, I honestly thing I could get into line with a crowbar....hell, I think I could get in it with a sawzall too

Louisiana primitive season you can actually use anything over 35 caliber single shot, breach loading, with an exposed hammer. It can be scoped Single shot 35 whelen got real popular real quick when it was changed to that. I hunt there every year

II'd rather find new grips, problem is, I don't know if I can find any. The grips are horn, so I don't know what will work best.

Shot mine for the first time today. Shot really well, but the right grip cracked during the first mag. So only shot one mag out of it. Got to super glue the grip tomorrow and get it up and running again

I've got a guy who makes custom leather holsters, he has made one for a ppk/s for me and is about to make one for my 1911. I'm thinking about seeing if he can make a boot holster for my little .25 if it won't cost me too much. It will also depend on how reliable it is. I'm shooting it after church today so I'll find out then

Got myself a .25 auto today, does anyone else have one (this is not a raven or lorcin lol, it's actually a decent little gun). I'm shooting it tomorrow. It's made in Belgium. Near as I can tell, it was made in the 20s But the fun thing is, it has a colt .25 magazine in it and it is not a colt So who else has one of these old guns

well here is my new dilemma, I don't have a clue what the inside is going to clean up like, and here is why (oh, I am copying posts from another forum to here so if it seems a little odd at times that's why....only want to write it once). The bore looked super rusty but once I got it clean it was fine....so who knows So only thing I did tonight was pull a .30 cal bore snake through the bore (on another note a .308 bore snake will fit through a .270 if you have 2 people pulling....and it gets the bore very clean lol) Anyways, I tried to get a picture of the bore and this was the best I could get. After the evaporust and the bore snake it actually looks really good, especially compared to what I was expecting lol Oh, and do y'all think that a little bit of heat will hurt for trying to get the gas block off or at least the screws and bolts in the gas block? And I'm talking heat gun rather than torch

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of own taken apart would you? And ya, "should" was the key word lol I think I may just take the entire gas block out of the dove tail.....

Here it is with a light rubbing with 0000 steel wool and gun oil after removing from evaporust

The gun comes out of the evaporust solution this evening after I get off work, I'm hoping it removed enough rust to be able to unscrew the gas regulator and all that on the gas system

I picked up the pistol today.....off to go shoot in in 10 min or so lol

I unfortunately don't have access to a glass bead blaster during the school year so I'll have to wait until next summer to do that. Right now it's just gonna be soak and scrub scrub scrub and repeat as needed

Trigger assembly is apart, I'm not going to take the safety out as it works fine and is completely free moving And let the soaking and scrubbing begin. Yay, more evaporust. I'll remove it Monday to see how it did, I'm going home for the weekend so can't check it then lol Had to improvise a soaking container with vacuum sealer bags and the cord to keep it around the entire gun. I first thought about using PVC pipe for it, but it turns out 2" pvc it too small to fit the barrel with gas system. and 3" would have taken too much evaporust, so I improvised

So, I keep an eye on Facebook gun traders in Louisiana as well as tn and a couple others. I just picked up what I believe is a Katrina gun. It is/was a grade IV Browning BAR in .270. I'll post pictures of the cleaning, restoring , shooting and anything else I think about for it. please feel free to offer advice, give hints, ask questions, call me nuts for taking on this project, etc.. The first pictures are what I got from the person selling the gun, he will hopefully provide me with a few more so that a better idea can be had of what condition the gun was actually in when I got it. scope cleaned up nicely, it originally had a yellow tint to the lenses and was rather nasty. After some 0000 steel wool and gun oil and a lens pen for the lenses, it cleaned up nicely. the last ring has one of the screws rusted in place and stripped out so I have not been able to get it out. if I can get the screw out the rings and scope mount should be salvageable for use if I can get new screws. would help the budget of the gun significantly. the scope is very clear and works great, I'd be willing to put money that this gun was submerged for at least some period of time and this scope came out fine.....and they say leupold is over priced.... these are pictures I took at home after scrubbing a small amount at the shop while waiting for a few things. a much better idea of the condition is seen here. I believe the gas block, gas piston, and 2 or 3 other small parts are the only things that will need to be replaced. the charging handle will also have to be replaced as we broke it while beating on it with a hammer to get the action freed up. this gives you an idea on the stocks, the salt water destroyed the fore end, but I believe that the buttstock is salvageable, so I am lucky there. I have also learned that boyd's gunstocks make stocks and forends for the BAR so I may get a set from them. I'm pretty sure it would be a lot cheaper than trying to get new ones from browning. most of the small action parts soaking in break free CLP, the entire trigger mechanism is freely moving though I may have to replace one spring. I got some Evaporust from school today as well (in school for machining), I have it soaking on the gas block area. the red rag was soaked with it then the entire thing was wrapped in plastic wrap. if it works well, I'll get a bottle for myself and also soak the bore with it. as far as plans for the gun, my goal right now is to get it shooting. After that I will get a full set of stocks for it (I'll use the original stock and shoot it without the forend for function testing). After the stocks and shooting it a bit more to confirm functionality, I will see about refinishing. right now I'm jumping between a few different things. so if anyone wants to comment on what finish I should do option one is to bead blast the entire thing and parkerize it (lowest on personal scaled, but functional nonetheless) option two is to bead blast it and matte blue the entire thing. option three is to bead blast the barrel and matte blue it and try to leave the receiver as is option four is to bead blast it and then cerakote it, using stainless cerakote on the receiver and all receiver parts with the stainless cerakote and use socom blue on the barrel and all parts that were originally blued. option 5 is any mix of the above lol I'd love ya'lls opinions on it, the cerakote is winning so far in my mind. Any bead blasting I do, I will take into account the engraving and try to preserve as much as possible. if I go cerakote I may just polish and sand everything and not bead blast it. I've got a few more posts on another forum, I'll transfer them over as well. in a few minutes. I'm happy to answer any and all questions on it

Yep, I should pick it up Saturday I had me Garthwaite do some extra work to it as well though

Ya, I'll be the first to admit it wasn't cheap, but a custom 1911 from him is very close to the same price as well . So I figured that the class was "free" so to speak and I was paying for a custom 1911. I will hopefully pick it up on Saturday...then Sunday I'll put a few (boxes lol) down range

Just got an email from Mr. Garthwaite letting me know that my gun should be done by Monday, I'll post some pictures of it when I get it back

I couldn't decide whether to put this in handguns or gunsmithing, please move if wrong place. Anyways, i just finished up Mr. Garthwaite's 1911 course that he offers (course info here http://www.garthwaite.com/services/classes.php). I thought I'd do a quick write up on my impressions of the course. I'll add a couple pictures as well. (I want to apologize for my crappy picture taking skills as well). It was a 5 day course which included range time. I also apologize, I am typing this on my phone so bear with me with mistakes, autocorrects, and the like. To begin with, I was impressed with the course, and would recommend it to anyone who can afford it and wants to learn More about a 1911. When we got to his shop, he show us a couple slide shows to get started then put us at our benches. There were 5 of us in the class, so he was able to help each of us individually. We were each given a standard Springfield mil spec 1911 which Mr. Garthwaite likes to use because they have a good forged frame and slide. The class ran from Monday to Friday from 8:00 am until 4:30-5:00 with a lunch each day at 12. We began with Jim showing us how he disassembles and reassembles a 1911. and with that I was already learning tricks. He removes the entire slide first rather than the bushing and recoil spring first so as to be able to twist the bushing in the middle of the barrel to help prevent wear of the bushing to barrel fit. We then sat down and disassembled and reassembles the 1911s until we were comfortable enough with it to do it easily. From there the first thing we did was fit a Kart match barrel. He showed us how he fit his barrels (and helped speed the process for us by milling off about 3/4 of the material that would have otherwise been filed). We then cut the lugs on the barrel as well. Next we fit triggers and new hammer sear and disconnector. All of which were made for mr. Garthwaite to his specs. At the same time he showed us how to do a trigger job using a jig and stones. His parts were wire EDMed so well that no tuning was needed. I do feel confident after him teach us that I could do a trigger job with the jig he used. Fitting the trigger was a simple task that was done by draw filing the oversized trigger too and bottom until it fit correctly. Next we worked on fitting the grip safety. He showed us his file techniques for fitting followed by sandpaper. My arbor that I was using to hold the frame did not have a clamp to hold the grip safety in which is why the rubber band was there. While fitting he grip safety's Mr Garthwaite did the mill work for the slides, cutting a dovetail for the front sight and cutting the rear for heinie sight. The rear sights we were using had also been milled out to aid in one hand racking of the slide. We finished the fitting of the sights with 65* files (I think it was 65 at least). After fitting the grip safeties we head spaced and slightly reamed the chambers to get it into specs as they were shot chambered. After that it was a trip to the range the next day which was thursday. The first thing done was sight in work. Most of guns shot correctly for Windage, but jim had brought his sight pusher and adjusted them as needed. For elevation jim filed on the sights right there at the range (which had been left purposefully high so they would shoot low), to get them to shoot where they needed to. I had brought standard 230 grain ball ammo as well as 230 grain hydrashoks with which to sight it in. Once the guns were sighted in we got to the fun part, shooting! We started out shooting steel targets from 15-30 yards away and ended up shooting clay pigeons on the bank at about 48 yards. (The guns were accurate). Jim brought out some plastic flat main spring housings with us to help us decide what we liked better. I liked the flat better so went with it. While at the range Jim had us shoot a few different drills, and helped us with our shooting. One of the students in the class was 15 and taking it with his dad. He out shot most of us the entire time. Jim also brought out a commander sized 1911 in 9mm with his gold bead front sight in it, so that were were able to try a 9mm gun and see the gold bead. (I really really liked the gold bead). The next morning (Friday) was all cosmetic work. Cleaning up any tool marks, etc... Since I decided to go with a flat mainspring housing I did the fitting work for that on Friday as well. On Friday he also showed us his techniques for checkering as well. During the day Friday he periodically pulled each of us into a separate room to talk about what we wanted in terms of finishing as there was not time for finishing during the class (we were given the option of a Teflon coat or bluing, I went bluing ). At the same time he asked us if there was anything we would like to have him do that we hadn't had time to do in the class. I am having him put a gold be in my front sight, polish the flats before bluing, checker the front and back strap and the back of the slide with 30 LPI, and flat top and serrate the top of the slide. I should have my gun in the next month or 2 (it's torturing me, I want to shoot my gun lol). It just take a bit for him to get the finishing done. Here are pictures of my gun before refinishing. This is how it sat at the end of the class. (The rear sight isn't in it) Throughout the course Jim described problems he had had on previous guns and showed us how he had taken care of it (as much as he could without actually having the problem to fix). He also through the course would show us things and explain exactly why he did them, for example he put a notch in the slide stops and then explained how it made it easier to assembled the gun again and prevents the notorious "idiot mark". I will try to get pictures of that after, didn't think about taking that picture. After the course I feel as though I can build my Springfield mil spec (that I bought the day I turned 21) to my specs, whatever they may be. I've ready installed a Garthwaite sear, hammer, and disconnect in my gun that I had before the class. I also had that gun with me, and was able to get mr. Garthwaite to put the notch in the slide stop for me. I would highly recommend this course, I learned more in the short time I was in the class than I have learned in a long time. I will update this with pictures of the gun when I get it back. If there is something I missed please, don't hesitate to ask questions about my experience in the course.

[quote name="Raoul" post="1167597" timestamp="1405103032"]Welcome neighbor. I'm a member at Kettlefoot.[/quote] Cool, I haven't shot there in a while, but the club is great. Do you know they hold the idpa matches?

Oh ya, I shoot any guns I can get ahold of. My current fixation is a .308 AR I just built and a .458 socom that I'm about to build. I'm also an NRA basic pistol instructor.

New member from Bristol here, been lurking a while bad posted once for info on a gun I was lost in. I'm on a couple forums, but guns are my main hobby and I decided it was high time I join up I used to shoot at kettle foot a lot, so if your a member there you may have seen me. Just figured if find out if there are any others on here from my area.