ken_mays

https://shootersconnectionstore.com/Gun-Parts/1911-2011-Pistols/Trigger-Group/Triggers

I've owned the P365 for a few years and really liked it for pocket carry. The grip was just the right size to get a decent 3-finger grip and it shot quite well for me. I picked up a Hellcat not long after they had hit shelves. Handling and shooting it, it was not appreciably visibly larger than the P365 but it was just a little too big in every dimension. The slide was too tall, the grip just a hair too fat. Bottom line, larger than I could do for pocket carry. And if I'm going to wear a belt holster, I have a dozen pistols I like better for that anyway. Compared to the P365, I thought the trigger reach was a bit excessive, as was the recoil. I liked the sights, they were quick to pick up and I could shoot it as accurately as the P365. However, it was not for me and I moved it along quickly. It would be a strong contender if you're going to holster it and want something as small as possible.

I owned one for a few years and recently sold it. I had a few minor complaints: it was oversprung for the ammo I was using, and it shot much too high with the iron sight installed. I think they might ship with two different spring weights now but at the time, I didn’t want to shoot it badly enough to go chase one down. The rear sight was a nonissue for me because I used a RDS instead. The holster they included was junk and never worked right for me. I also didn’t care for the trigger shape was it tended to cause my finger to drag along the bottom of the guard. But all that aside, I think they are a good value and are a quality product.

Since the pin locations look identical to the polymer version, I am assuming they still use the same steel breech block and rear guide block the original version uses.

How accurate are those, generally? I have a Daisy Powerline and can't routinely hit anything much past 10 yards with BBs.

This is what I received when I ordered dies and bullets from Ammo Supply Warehouse. It's a place to start, at least, with a common powder. Disclosure: I never got around to loading any .22 TCM with this combo.

I'm glad S&W is experimenting with metal frames again, but personally I see this as a bit of a step backward. I'm not sold on the reasons for replacing a light, non-corrosive, impact resistant polymer frame with a marginally lighter, far more expensive frame that is subject to cumulative stress fatigue and finish wear. I'd rather see them come up with a steel frame, which would hold up to repeated stress better than aluminum and provide a real recoil reduction benefit.

My opinion is that what HK offers is essentially an overbuilt handgun in any given caliber that will keep working long after you've lost interest in shooting it. More than many other brands, they are designed to have a high mean time between failures and minimal parts breakage. The USP, P30 and HK45 designs in particular have held up to insane round counts. They are good "take them to war" pistols for that reason. However, for standard recreational or even competitive shooters, other platforms are more desirable for other reasons (ergonomics, size, etc.) I've owned a fair number of HKs and sold many of them. Some I still keep and take them out from time to time. The USPs in particular feel rather clunky and unrefined while shooting due to their size and triggers, compared to other models like the S&W M&P, Walther PPQ/PDP, or even Glocks. The HK VP9 and possibly the P30 series are a little more in line with modern designs but still feel a bit large for what they are. They have all been uniformly quite accurate and dependable.

DM incoming, will take it

I've built my own, 2x6 for the frame and legs and 2x4s for the top, and then bought a Formica countertop to put over the top of it all.

Nice Firestar, you don't often see the box. The finish is actually a nickel finish that they called "Starvel".

Heckuva deal with the 507 included!

My personal entry into the category, Kabar Dozier Hunter https://www.knifecenter.com/item/KA4062FG/KA-BAR-4062FG-Dozier-Folding-Hunter-3-inch-Black-Plain-Blade-Foliage-Green

Full length recoil guides make it easier to remove the top end as a unit. They also help make the slide action seem smoother since the spring is bound to the rod and isn't rubbing against the usually rough inside of the recoil spring tunnel. A 5" 1911 can be a bit more complicated to take down in the field unless you have a staple or other bit of wire, but shorter variants tend not to have that problem because you can lift the rod out without having to capture the spring first. I absolutely hate the two-piece guide rods that screw together, however... those definitely require the right tool to take down and have a habit of coming unscrewed at the worst moment. But if a 1-piece or GI guide rod comes in a gun, I tend to live with it and rarely swap one out for the other.

I believe RRA's Chuck and Mark Larson learned their 1911 craft under Les Baer when they were all working in the Springfield Custom shop, then later when they joined Les when he started his own shop. Mark passed away back in 2013 but RRA survives. I have a 6" RRA and it's an excellent shooter, as you would expect.

Thanks!

I’ve bought several used range guns. None of them were even on the on-ramp of the road to being shot out.

I finally got a few rounds through one of these and was pretty impressed with it. The trigger was something I could work with, and the sights and safety were a big improvement over even the MkIII standards. Accuracy was good too.

I usually tell people who have problems with Glocks to remember to point their support hand thumb at the target. This forces you to roll your wrists forward which gets the sights on target. People always say "lock your wrists" but that means nothing me to at all, my wrists don't have keyholes Over time, you just automatically tell yourself, "Pick up a Glock, thumb toward target"

Some 9mm 1911s have extended ejectors installed that will be too long to allow ejection of a loaded .38 Super round. From what I have experienced, you can often get by with just one shortened .38 ejector for both 9 and .38. Like someone suggested above, make sure the .38 case head will slide up the breechface. Chances are you may need to also purchase a new extractor and adjust it for .38 as well, since an extractor that will put sufficient tension on a .38 case will not put enough tension on a 9mm case for reliable extraction. You'll need to figure out what ramp style the Garrison uses for the barrel. Generally Springfield uses Wilson/Nowlin style ramped barrels but it's always a good idea to check your personal gun.

I've probably carried too many guns. I still have a bad habit of carrying about anything I have a holster for, but have more or less settled on the M&P, IWI Masada, and SIG P365 at the moment.

I like .40 pretty well and have shot a boatload of it through 2011s and polymer guns. However, I find the Glock 23 and 22 are quite uncomfortable to shoot, especially with factory ammo. The greater recoil seems to magnify all the ergonomic problems that I have with the Glock frame. Service pistols like the M&P for example are just about as easy to find in the $350 range and are far more comfortable to shoot for me.

Hi, I will take this... DM incoming

I have never sent anything out for refinishing personally. Now that Robar is gone, a few other shops seem to be offering NP3, but use at your own risk and check reviews before doing business with anyone. If hard chrome plating is on the table, I've heard good things about APW / Cogan and Ford's Guns, as well as Mahovsky's Metalife, but again it's just hearsay.

How does that Ruger shoot? I admit I've been tempted...