ken_mays

I've used Armslist quite a bit, mostly buying. I've had good experiences but I stick to face-to-face transactions. I'm not interested in mailing the gun and payment back and forth, and I say so in the ad. The scam potential is way too high for all that. If I'm going to go interstate, I use Gunbroker. At least there is a feedback system that gives you a bit of security.

I've heard of people Cerakoting the barrel extension and using Loctite or Rocksett to fill in the rest of the space. A lot of AR-10 builders need to do it because apparently there can be a big variation in dimensions between manufacturers. I think in your case, it was a smart move to just use a different upper... .007" is a lot.

I think I'm headed in the opposite direction. I just sold 2 of my Tanfoglios and 2 CZs, a pre-B 75 and a CZ P-09. The standard Tanfo/Witness is an OK handgun but were hampered by a mediocre trigger and sights. On the older ones that were more of a direct CZ 75 clone, you could easily improve the trigger by swapping in a lighter mainspring, but the last one I bought had a shorter mainspring which was a bit tricker to deal with. Two of my rear sights had pretty good dings on them from the previous owners, and I never had any luck finding a replacement sight of the right height. I liked the P09 better but this one had the suppressor height sights and threaded barrel, neither of which I had a use for. I already had a standard P09 that I actually prefer over any CZ-75 I've owned. My pre-B 75 was a mess when I got it. Apparently it had badly rusted, and the previous owner attacked it with a buffing wheel. This got rid of the rust (and the rollmarks) but not the pitting, and he'd rounded off the now-shiny front sight. I milled it off and cut a dovetail so I could install a STI front sight, filed most of the light pitting out, and refinished the gun in Cerakote. I crowned the barrel and installed a Beretta "D" mainspring, which did wonders for the trigger pull. It shot dramatically better after that.

The trigger parts on the Gen 5 guns are apparently completely different from prior generations. I don't have the link handy, but Recoil magazine had photos of a detail strip. This is obviously going to be an issue in the short term if buyers aren't happy with the triggers out of the box, but I'm sure aftermarket vendors are working on new parts for them, and fortunately, most accounts seem to confirm that the factory triggers are very good out of the box.

The Gun Crew has a lot of them in stock.

9mm 1911s are a lot of fun too. I tend to shoot them a lot more frequently than my .45s. And when you get tired of single stacks, you can pick up a 2011 in 9mm that gives you twice the fun per magazine. Decent 2011s aren't cheap, but you'll ask yourself why you waited so long when you finally get one.

I agree that the M&P 45 1.0s had some horrible triggers. The weight was far out of proportion for what was reasonable IMO. This is due to an extra strength trigger spring, apparently. I was able to replace mine with an Apex competition spring kit which contributed a large amount of improvement. The M&P 2.0 triggers are uniformly a big step up from the 1.0 triggers. The sear face has been shortened to decrease some of the creep that was felt on the old sear style. Overtravel was another problem on the 1.0 triggers; the trigger would travel so far after breaking that it would noticeably cause the front sight to twitch when it bottomed out on the frame. The Dan Burwell DIY trigger job showed one good way to correct this. I performed the Burwell mods on all my M&Ps which saved me from buying a lot of Apex sears. I haven't sat down and measured the overtravel on the 2.0 but the sight twitch is pretty much gone. As to the CZ P10C, the trigger is not bad out of the box and can be improved a little simply by putting a dab of grease on the striker surface. Mine will never approach a good tuned M&P trigger but it's perfectly serviceable. What worries me about the P10C is that the trigger safety blade can hang if you don't get a close-to-perfect trigger finger position so that you pull the trigger straight back, and of course the documented striker rotation problems. I hope CZ can address that with a drop-in redesigned part. My gun apparently doesn't suffer from that problem, but peace of mind would be worth replacing the striker anyway. I like the P10C a lot and would like to see it succeed. I never had much luck getting it to fit the G19 holsters as advertised, but it was a pretty good fit in many of my M&P holsters; go figure.

Thanks for the link; I'm tempted to order one to try it out. The SCR has intrigued me for a while; it seems like a smarter Mini-14.

It saddens me that we see this before we see the full sized SCR rifle.

A 7/32" chainsaw file is pretty close to the nominal .200" slidestop diameter, if you need to do some filing. I like to fit my barrels tight, so there is always some hand work that needs to be done after the lug cutter to allow the barrel to go into battery. I also like to start with a .195" slidestop so that I can swap in a larger pinned part if the lockup ever loosens up.

Aesthetics aside (and I think this is probably the best looking handgun he's done yet, not that it's saying much), I wouldn't bet on JJ being able to build a functioning longslide.

Quick update: I put another 250 rounds through my H9. No malfunctions to report. Groups continue to be pretty good but I think I could see better groups with a pound removed from the trigger pull. I also notice that if you put too much finger on the trigger, the bottom of the trigger can cause irritation as you can get a slight pinch between the trigger shoe and bottom of the trigger guard. Not really a big deal in the scheme of things. I do want a shorter and thinner front sight. I have to cover the point of impact with the front sight, which I'm not used to doing. I like to have the POI just at the top of the front sight. But the orange front sight is easy to pick up and center, so I could live with the width of it if it were a bit shorter. I continue to be impressed with the feel and ease of operation of the controls.

There have been a dealer or two in Memphis who've said they have one, on Facebook.

You can often find STI 2011s on Gunbroker for around $1500. VIP and 4.0 models.

The "big deal" about the Hudson is the recoil spring design and bore axis. By moving it in front of the trigger guard, they were able to lower the centerline of the bore axis, which is supposed to decrease muzzle flip. I don't know if the juice was worth the squeeze on THAT benefit, but there are enough other neat things about the gun that I liked what I saw and thought it would be a neat one to own.

No, I haven't. I don't use Youtube for much.

Thanks guys! The only way I can imagine getting rid of it is if it takes off like a rocket and there are suddenly a billion different variations on the market. Then I might think about getting rid of it for a more advanced version... but I think that's pretty unlikely. Here are a few of the internals. Takedown is essentially similar to the Beretta 92FS. You push a spring loaded button on the right side of the frame inwards (it's tight, helps if you have a tool like the plastic end of a ballpoint pen) and swivel the take down trapezoid on the left side of the frame downwards. Pull the trigger and the slide comes off the frame. Recoil spring guide stays with the frame, I believe it's screwed in and doesn't need to come out for routine maintenance. A weapon light is awkward to use. I pretty much can't hit the switches on the TLR-1 with my trigger finger when I have a double handed firing grip. It's quite easy to hit the switch with my support hand index finger, slightly less easy with my support hand thumb. With a little practice it would be a very natural movement.

I picked one up, $1100 locally. I was surprised to see it actually sitting on the shelf, and not taking it home wasn't an option. Handling it, I like the feel of it. Besides being heavy, it is nicely designed from an ergonomic view, feels good in the hand with no contortions needed to operate all controls. The front and backstraps are textured finely and the gun feels smooth in the hand, but when you take a tight firing grip, the checkering helps it stay put. Sights are excellent, and I would only ask for a bit wider rear notch. The front sight appears to fill the notch fully, where I like some light on each side. The front is orange-outlined tritium and the rear has an angled and serrated face, while the front is blunt enough to act as a cocking ledge. Quality of machining is as good as anything I own. Came in a neat fancy cardboard box with 3 mags and a manual. Trigger is good, though not as light as some. Gauges 5.5 pounds on my scale but the extremely short takeup (1/8" or so) and equally short reset make it feel a bit lighter than it actually is. The hinged safety trigger shoe works without a hitch and is unnoticeable while shooting. Mags easily drop free, though they feature stiffer mag springs than anything I've bought lately. It's a chore to get all 15 rounds in and a mag loader's a welcome tool here. Slide release is easy to use and large enough to find and operate in a hurry without being in the way while shooting. I put about 80-90 rounds through it (115gr TMJ reloads at about 130 power factor) and no malfunctions were observed. Recoil is mild compared to a M&P 5" Pro and even a CZ SP01 Shadow. Muzzle rise was minimal and the sight picture quick to reacquire. It seems very comparable to a 9mm Glock or Steyr, though I didn't shoot enough fast strings to really make note of it. It was easy to keep a consistent grip since it doesn't recoil enough to really require a crush grip. It's rare that I pick up a gun that doesn't have some annoying sharp edge or corner that soon stands out, but the H9 doesn't. The mags, though, had sharp corners on the rear of the floorplates that I'm going to round off at some point. Accuracy was good but not "OMG" outstanding. Most firing was at about 10-15 yards and it was easy to keep the shots within a 2" bullseye. I think a lighter trigger will tell the true tale there, combined with shooting from a rest. Point of impact appeared to be right at the top of the front sight, the way I happen to prefer. Perhaps it was shooting a hair to the left, but I'm going to shoot it more before touching the sights. Changes I'd make? I'd like a wider rear notch, as already stated. A pair of slightly more aggressive grips would make me feel better, though maybe not shoot better. I'd take about 1 or 2 pounds off the trigger if it doesn't lighten up within 500 rounds. I'm not in a hurry to do any of this, however, which is high praise in my book. I'm quite pleased with the H9 and I'm really looking forward to spending more time with it at the range. I'm frankly impressed that Hudson managed to deliver a completely new design like this and have it in my hands in what I feel is a record amount of time, without a bunch of teething problems that are glaringly apparent.

M&P 2.0

Bingo. Personally, that's something I wouldn't buy since I never had problems concealing a G19 sized pistol, but apparently there are quite a few people out there who feel that anything thicker than a LC9 on their belt will cause the world to end.

I've been hearing people yearn for a single stack G19 for at least 10 years. I guess they figured the G43 would shut those folks up.

http://www.recoilweb.com/news-of-glocks-19x-pistol-leaked-132572.html Official announcement later this month. Basically a G19 slide on a G17 frame.

I kept one loaded for years as a nightstand gun. I never had any reliability problems out of it, but over time the magazine feedlips noticeably deformed.

I don't see what actual brand of ammo you used. Sometimes truncated cone projectiles like the Hornady Critical Defense won't roll over the feed ramp and into the chamber consistently. In that case, easiest thing to do is switch to an elliptical ogive bullet that mimics ball ammo. The out of battery issue may have been the result of an inertia feed and your nudge may have snapped the extractor hook over the rim. Next time that happens, pull the slide back to see if the round is under the extractor. Inertia feeds happen because the force of the slide hitting the frame during recoil is jarring the round out of the mag before the slide can return and strip it off. New mag springs would be the first thing I'd try here. Another possibility is that your rounds are hitting the inner lug of the slide stop while coming out of the mag The round has to bump its way past, robbing energy from the chambering cycle. This often manifests as a tactile "ka-chunk" as the slide returns, Check the slide stop for signs of copper rubbing. Otherwise the the usual wear items need to be checked. Extractor tension, recoil springs, mag springs.

I picked up a full sized 9mm a couple of weeks back. The accuracy improvements over the 1st gen are welcome and noticeable. The trigger is better as well. I'm not sure if the 9C has the same aggressive grip texture as the other 2.0s, but if so, it might be too rough for IWB carry and a pass over the grip with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper may be advisable.