ken_mays

Top Gun seems like a good location. Are weekends or weekday evenings better for everyone?

It's all about liability these days. Most places with publicly accessible wifi use some sort of web filtering to restrict objectionable or questionable content. To let people access something like hacking or movie pirating sites would open you up to all kinds of liability. The place I work had a guest wifi setup years ago, and we actually got a cease and desist letter from RIAA because someone used it to watch a pirated movie from some sketchy website.

The covered range at Shelby Farms, west of the Agricenter closed up 20 years ago. Not sure if you're talking about that one, or something else. There is a FOP range around there but it's open only to members. Meeting at a restaurant or somewhere like a brewery tap room would require less organization and no reservations or commitments - people could just come and go with no purchase required. The tap rooms tend to have a fair amount of outdoor seating and plenty of space.

I've used one of those kits for a couple years. You really aren't worried so much about getting them 100% level, as you are replicating the scope base plane for your scope. The way I use it, I put the small flat level on the scope base and get it as level as I can. The bubble position does not really matter as long as you note what it is. Then I clamp the other level around the barrel and adjust it until the bubble matches the one on the flat level. Then you have a 'copy' of the scope base plane on the clamp level. Mount the scope and place the flat level on the top scope turret or cap, and twist the scope until the flat level bubble matches the clamp level bubble. At this point, the scope should be level in relation to the scope base itself. Tighten the scope rings and you're done.

Of course you can always spend as much money as you want, but something like a Glock 34 will be very hard to beat for the money.

Don't see why not.

Would you be willing to entertain a trade for a Tisas Night Stalker DS 9? I'm in the Memphis area but can travel.

The hammer hook geometry, I believe, is different on these versus the factory hammers. The angle is set to allow the sear to simply release the hammer instead of slightly raising it (making it 'climb the hill' so to speak) before release. This make the break more akin to how the 1911 sear/hook geometry is set up. I find the best bang for the buck on CZs is a lighter mainspring. That usually gets the trigger pull into the 'good' category instead of 'meh' from the factory. Of course you can always upgrade the hammer, etc. if more is needed.

It's a tough question of course, but I would have to say my second favorite is this Les Baer .45 factory built on a Strayer-Voigt (aka Infinity) double stack 2011 frame. They did a few limited runs of these in the late 90s/early 00s timeframe for a distributor called CFI. They pop up from time to time on Gunbroker and I kept my eyes open for about 10 years before this one came along. The idea of a tight, super accurate Baer gun built on the double stack frame (that is lighter than the steel Para P14s of the time) seems like an awesome combination to me.

Text message sent Also have these available if there's any interest: CETME L (green) 5.56 SIG MPX carbine 9mm SIG MPX pistol 9mm IWI Tavor SAR (FDE) 5.56 Beretta ARX 100 5.56

PX4 in .45 or 9mm? I own several PX4s in 9 and 40 and think they are fine DA/SA pistols. There are enhanced parts available from Langdon and the mainspring easily swapped which lightens the trigger. I have owned HK USPs and they are big tanks with mediocre (to be charitable) triggers and massive, chunky slides. But they are reliable and are supposed to hold up to a lot of abuse. Accurate too if you get used to the trigger.

I’ve had one about 10 years. Came with an additional 9mm barrel and was about $600. I think I shot 22TCM maybe twice and then left the 9mm barrel in it. It ran TCM fine, but I never saw much point in the chambering. The FN Five Seven makes more sense to me because at least it’s a lightweight handgun and higher capacity. Ammo was not hard to find and not super expensive but I tend to doubt things will stay that way now that the caliber has basically failed to gain traction. I did buy a set of Lee dies but never used them.

Agree the 1301 is a great shotgun, but after they jacked up the price to "differentiate" it from the A300, I'm not sure it's worth what they're trying to get now. I would buy A300 tactical before I spent $1600-1700 on another 1301. And with the recent ATF decision to ban further imports, I'm not sure there is going to be any downward pressure on the prices.

Usually the front sight is pinned. You may have to drill a hole in the sight, just put the sight in place and run a 1/16" drill through the blade through the existing roll pin hole.

I've owned a few but moved them all on sooner or later. I was never able to get the trigger where I wanted it to be.

Any interest in a Mossberg MVP in .223 ?

Price?

.308 is the 'usual' battle rifle caliber. SCAR, FAL, M1A, HK 91/G3/PTR 91, Tavor 7, and of course the various flavors of AR-10. You should be aware the AR-10 rifles use a variety of designs and will generally not interchange parts outside the brand, like we are used to with the AR-15. I would suggest getting one that uses the SR-25 magazine pattern. The SCAR is probably the lightest of all of them, a bit on the expensive side. It has a reputation for beating older and cheaper optics up. The M1A is a bit obsolescent compared to modern battle rifles. Scope mounting is a bit awkward and the accuracy will generally not be up to the modern competitors, but it's a fun historical rifle to own. Much the same can be said about the FAL. Those tend to be battlefield accurate and nobody is shooting matches with them. Scope mounting is an afterthought as well but it can be done. One thing about the FAL is that its 10 position gas adjustment means that you can get it shooting very soft. That and its storied reputation as the right arm of the free world means it's one of my favorite battle rifles to shoot. The HK91/G3 pattern is similar. Recoil on these is notoriously harsh compared to some of the others, and unless you get a modern clone like the PTRs with the built in optic rail, optic mounting is a kludge. Accuracy is OK but not outstanding, about on a par with the M1A and FAL. The Tavor 7 is a bullpup and has a lot of modern features. Great triggers are possible, optic mounting easy, uses SR-25 magazines, 4 position gas adjustment, and accuracy is fairly good. But bullpups aren't for everyone.

Is that stainless or is it one of the NP3 plated ones? The yellow tint looks just like mine.

PM incoming

True!

I did show up Sunday for a bit, long enough to see something I had to have. Oh well, I hear having a retirement fund is overrated anyway

I’ve settled on Frankford spray lube for rifle cases. I use One Shot spray for my pistol cases when loading on a progressive press but I find that I have to use too much of it for rifle cases and it’s relatively expensive. The Frankford lube migrates better and I don’t have to use as much. I use a lot of plastic shoebox style containers to store brass and I dump a couple handfuls on the lid and spray over them. A few minutes and they are ready to load.