dawgdoc

Well, from the website to the comments on the Internet, I thought PSA had slow shipping.  Instead, I already have a package waiting at the UPS facility.  If tomorrow wasn't a holiday, it would be delivered then.

Well, I've ordered my stuff; now I just need to buy a lower.  I kept fighting the tendency to go as cheap as possible.  I decided to use $700 as my comparison point (the two guns in the LGS), and I figured I could go with the premium barrel and MOE stock and still be ahead.  So far, so good.   I had thought I wanted a mid-length, but the one I originally wanted was already out of stock, and for less money I could get a blemished premium carbine-length upper (Black Friday deal).     I hope I don't screw this up.

I think I'm going to go for it.  I already have some punches ordered, as well as some other things.  I have been piecing together things on PSA--right now it is a 16 inch mid-length upper.  I just like how the mid-length looks versus a carbine length, although I could live with either.   Oh, Shoot--I remember you mentioning the plastic bag trick before, and after watching the videos, I can see where that would be useful.  I have already been planning my work space (in the basement, where there are no floor registers).    I want to order right now, but I know I should wait for two things--Thanksgiving sales and my check from Ruger.

Thanks for all the responses from everyone; just in the last few days I already feel more knowledgeable about ARs.

What about the upper assemblies without bolt carrier groups or charging handles?  If I bought one of those, is it simple to just buy the BCG and charging handle, or is there some difficulty in getting those parts in?  As in, not for the inexperienced.   Also, PSA has a lot of stuff temporarily out of stock.  Is that normal, or is it preparation for Black Friday?  For those of you who have bought from their Black Friday sales, did you stalk the website daily, start on Thanksgiving, or wait until Friday?

It sounds like the starter punch is like a helping hand.  Are they required or just helpful?  I ask because of the obvious extra expense.  I think I can interpret on the AR15.com guide which steps where a starter punch is most useful, and the possible alternatives (such as using a needle nose pliers to hold the pin).  

What is the difference between a starter punch and the roll pin punch? When I was searching on Amazon, I kept finding punch sets, but nothing that was distinguished as a starter.

  The Shooter's Depot of North Georgia; don't know if the sister store in Chattanooga has the same things.   After watching videos on building lowers and reading the guide on AR15.com, I think that I may do that.  Resell value is less important to me than the learning experience at this point.  I like doing things myself, and the lower seems easier than some things that I have done.  Even if I just buy an upper, I think I want the sense of satisfaction that goes along with building.  I'm thinking of getting the Anderson lower locally and everything else from PSA.  Back-up plan would be blemished lower from PSA.   I should add that the thought of buying the majority of a gun through the mail makes me smile as I think of the potential liberal tears that will be shed.     Also, I have already made a trade for all my Mini mags for GI mags.

I just read the review of the S&W Sport on The Truth About Guns; it seemed that the lack of forward assist and dust cover didn't cause any real problems in Arizona.

Both local shops have Anderson stripped lowers (one shop was $49 and the other was $69, I believe), and they look exactly alike.  Also, as far as I could tell, the $49 Anderson lower looked like the $99 Spikes lower right next to it (except for the horse instead of a spider).    Assuming there is nothing physically wrong with the Anderson lower, is the only negative of using a different lower from upper is the resale value?  From what I understand, there are only a few actual manufacturers of forged lowers, and the various companies just provide the finish and their stamp, correct?  So in other words, the quality of the finish might be the only difference.   If the Anderson lower is good, then it would seem $49 might be a good deal(?).  Even when PSA has blemished lowers on sale (like maybe this Friday), would they be a whole lot cheaper than this with shipping and transfer fee?    Frankly, building a gun seems to have so many choices that my head could explode.  It feels very similar to new car shopping, in which you seemingly have all these potential options, but then you are limited to some specific configurations that are currently available.  As I contemplate buying new vs. building, I find myself leaning one way and then another.   On a tangentially related note, has anyone been to a Gander Mountain on Black Friday morning?  I may be able to go to one, should I wish to subject myself to such abuse, but I can only imagine what the gun counter would be like.

Unfortunately, my Mini experience appears to not be unique.  If you google "Mini 14 jamming," or something similar, you'll other similar stories, and they all seem to be newer Minis.  There might have been a bad lot or something.  The original gun was a 582; the replacement was a 583.   I found out about the Garand stomp when googling how to get the case unstuck (except I think it was an AK stomp that I found).   What are all of your thoughts on a $700 Del-Ton vs building one from Plametto State Armory for around $550 to $600? (just guessing at the final price because I don't know about their shipping and potential Black Friday deals)  The other factor is of course the Del-Ton is available now, vs the PSA which looks like it could take 2-3 weeks at least to get to the final product.  I assume the turn around time at PSA will be longer than normal at this time of year, also.  The other local choice* is a Smith & Wesson M&P 15 Sport. The only difference to my eyes between the S&W and Del-Ton was that the S&W had no forward assist or dust cover, but did have a flip up rear site.  The S&W was $20 cheaper.   *by "local choice," I mean the LGS and not Academy, Wal-Mart, etc.  My plan is to support small business, if possible.  Another shop is selling ARs that I think are assembled in shop from Anderson lowers and JSE uppers for $500-600.  Those don't seem much different than going the PSA route.

This may sound may sound elementary, but if I bought a completed lower and a separate complete upper, should I expect that any two brands should fit together? Right now, one thing that I am considering is buying a completed lower and separate upper from Palmetto State Armory just because the price seems good, even accounting for the transfer fee for the lower. In that case, I would assume things should fit pretty good. One reason to do it this way is because I haven't seen a mid-length gas system locally; I don't have any personal experience with carbine vs mid-length, but the longer handgaurd seems like it could be useful. I think I have settled on getting a fixed front sight because that seems durable. Also Raoul, the mags are 20-round Ruger brand.

Two years ago, I decided that I wanted a rifle for target shooting with a secondary function of SHTF gun should "something" happen. I debated between an AR, AK, and the Mini-14. I settled on the Mini-14 at that time for two reasons--price and reputation for reliability. Over that time, my original Mini-14 was sent back to Ruger three times for repeated failure to extract problems; on the third time, they replaced the entire gun. I gave the replacement a chance, but after about 200 rounds with more than a few jams, I was getting frustrated. The kicker was when a case got stuck so bad that I had to use a hammer on the charging handle to get it free. So the replacement was sent back to Ruger; this time I just asked for a refund because I couldn't trust the Mini-14. I received a call this week that they were sending a refund (fortunately I had the original receipts). Unfortunately, I have a few Mini-specific accessories like magazines, an ATI folding stock, and Tech Sights that I will now have to try to sell. I have a feeling it will be like selling replacement headlights for an Edsel. So, I have been looking at ARs this week. Most of my knowledge comes from the internet and the gun shop employees. I have looked at the AR basic guides on various websites, and I have read various first-time AR threads on a few message boards. Right now, I don't think that I will be attaching anything to the handgaurd, and the round handgaurd seems to feel right. The only thing that I could forsee wanting to add would be a light (maybe). I saw a picture of an AR with a round handgaurd, but it looked like it had a narrow rail on the bottom. So, in terms of future proofing, is that a viable option for a light, or is a quad rail necessary? Also, the opinions on forward assists seems to be that most people never used them. Dust covers, on the other hand, seem to be useful, but I only have other's frame of reference as to their utility. Of ~$700 guns that I have looked at, some have dust covers and forward assists, but others do not. I'm also divided on buying complete gun versus building. The main reason for me to buy complete would be reliability, versus cost saving, learning experience, and possibly choosing an exact configuration with a build. It was somewhat weird when I was handling the guns--my muscle memory from the Mini-14 had me trying to rock the magazines into place. It also seemed the guns were lighter, but that might be just because they were unloaded. I'm sure some of the advice y'all have has probably already been given, and you might be tired of the same old threads, but if anyone has the same unique perspective of switching from Mini-14 to AR, I would appreciate it. "The check is in the mail" this week, so I might be buying soon after Thanksgiving. I think Gander Mountain has an M&P 15 Sport with 4 additional magazines on Black Friday, but I shudder at the thought of even trying to get that deal.

For years I have had people complaining that Frontline (fipronil) is not working like it used to, and for years, Merial, the manufacturer, has claimed that there is no flea resistant to it.  Then in the space of a few years they brought out two different products that combined fipronil with other flea medications.  I think that there could be fipronil-resistant fleas; maybe it still kills them, but it could take longer so that the fleas are more visible.  I consider fipronil to be better than Hartz, Zodiac, Bio-Spot, etc, but inferior to other products.     The things that I see that work the best are spinosad, which is in both Comfortis and Trifexis, and imidacloprid, which is in Advantage, K9 Advantix, Advantage Multi, and Seresto collars.  The newest product is Bravecto, which is an oral medication that kills fleas and most tick species for 3 months, but I have not used it much.   Capstar is the white tablet that starts killing fleas within 30 minutes--I call it the atom bomb for fleas.  However, it does not have a residual effect that keeps working for a month; it is designed for a quick knock down of the existing fleas.   For environmental control, you need to focus on the sleeping areas and places in the dark.  The flea larva hatch out of the eggs that fall off the animal and then immediately migrate away from the light.  So they will be under furniture, against baseboards, in the cracks of sofa cushions, etc.  Outside, they are going to be under bushes, under the deck, etc, rather than out in the middle of the lawn in direct sunlight.  I like flea area sprays rather than bombs for indoor flea control for two reasons:  (1) you can treat one room at a time and not have to leave the house, and (2) you can target where the larva and pupa actually are.  Bomb mist settles on surfaces and could completely miss under the couch, for example.   The boric acid use in the carpet dries out the flea larva.  Diatomaceous earth is supposed to abrade the exoskeleton of arthropods.  The big worry with DE is silicosis from breathing in the very fine powder.

  But the hopeless ones aren't neccessarily voting for their oppressors, but still have to live there anyway because of jobs, can't sell their house, family, etc.  Yes, they have the freedom to move out of the state, but their actual opportunities may be slim.  For example, if you specialize in foot and mouth disease research, then Plum Island, New York is one of your only options (until they open its replacement in Kansas).

I read the comics up to a point.  I can definitely say that Hershel's death would have been even more shocking if I hadn't read the comics.  As soon as I saw him on his knees, I knew what was coming, and guessed correctly that it wouldn't be a swift death.

I feel sorry for people who live in New York, New Jersey, or Massachusetts the same way I feel sorry for women in Afghanistan.  Members of both groups are often stuck in their localities, seemingly powerless to better their lives.  And it is cause for celebration when a liberty-minded individual gets to break free from those places.  You know those scenes in Charlie Wilson's War where all the rich people are lamenting the lives of the Afgans under communism, and they just want to do something?  That is how I feel about those states sometimes.   Truly, with some of New York's draconian laws, it seems like a foreign country.  I would imagine that it must be depressing voting for change and watching the same old stuff get perpetuated. There is probably a sense of hopelessness that can really crush one's spirit in those places.  

I think mine have frozen before, but they don't seem damaged.

My rain barrels (50 gallon plastic drums) stay full during winter. Even if I tried to drain them before the freeze, they would fill back up because I would have to leave them in place. Until it gets real cold, they are useful when I need to wash off a shovel but don't want to take off the faucet covers. I once had a wood barrel that would leak in the winter, probably because the wood contracted and opened the spaces between the staves.

Part of the problem is the lack of training.  Knowing the body language of dogs would go a long way, I would hope, to decreasing the number of dogs shot.  Also, training on using the Taser.  East Ridge Animal Control were given Tasers; they were taught to aim them gangsta' style so that the barbs would hit the dog correctly, but I think they would still have to be close.  A baton would probably persuade some of the more aggressive dogs to stop an attack.   I should also point out that there are dogs that truly are jerks, that is, they will attack without fear or provocation.  Even then, since I know those dogs are rare, I don't think that I would personally shoot until after kicking first.  The other day I was walking my dog, and a boxer came charging out of its yard with hackles raised, but all I did was try to keep my dog away, and nothing happened.  So many dogs can look vicious, but then don't follow through on the threat.  

I think cops need training on the difference between the dog that is actually attacking and the dog that is barking loudly in defense of its property.  The problem with many of the stories is that the cops apparently did not even give any thought to what they were doing (such as shooting an ankle-biter dog).  I think the normal rules should apply--only use a gun when absolutely necessary in defense of life, know your target and what is beyond, etc.   In my house, if a cop broke down the door because they had the wrong address, my 40-pound dog might approach a few steps, barking loudly, hackles raised, but would most likely not attack.  Based on the situations that I have seen, that would most likely get her shot, and our main living area where she stays is the second floor over a finished basement, so I could see a shot aimed at a dog going through the floor and into the room below.   My personal belief is that if the dog is latched onto your body, that is when you get to shoot it, not before, even if it is running toward you, and especially not just because it is growling or barking in the corner of the room.  I see a lot of dogs that don't like me, and most are fear aggressive--they are not going to attack if you leave them alone.  The few that have lunged at me could have caused a serious wound if they connected, but I doubt they could have (or would have) actually got my throat.   So yes, are there times based on my system when a cop might be harmed in the interest of being absolutely sure that the dog is a threat?  Yes, but I feel that risk is outweighed by the dangers created by shooting dogs that didn't need shooting.  As for drug dealers who have guard dogs--I don't think the dogs should be executed just because the owner is a bad guy anymore than I think the cops should be able to set his house on fire just to get him out.  Does killing the guard dogs make their job easier?  Yes, but so does suspending the Constitution.

I thought Eugene was going to turn out to have been a janitor who worked around scientists.  The way he talked, I wonder if he might have legitimate ideas but no experience in actual research.   I predict that the next time we see Eugene conscious, he will eventually have some brilliant idea or plan that we will save them and make him useful again.  There was a character in Lucifer's Hammer that was Eugene-like.  He was an overweight scientist that made himself useful by studying the skills one would need after the world collapses, like harvesting insulin from sheep and making chemical weapons from available products.   Also, I assume that the next time we see Rick's group, the smoke from the bus will be in the background, or otherwise mentioned, like they did last season with the house that Daryl and Beth torched. 

I use a Remora.  It can go from pocket to IWB back to pocket if needed.  When I was in Florida, I was pocket carrying an LC9 in a Remora due to the heat.  I used to pocket carry when I knew I was going somewhere where I had to disarm, like church, and then could put it IWB afterwards.

Even though some people bought up .22's during the panic, there may be people like me who sold their .22 guns.  I had bought an SR22 to be my training gun a year before Sandy Hook; I eventually sold it because it was easier to find 9 mm.  I really liked that gun, too, but I used the funds to buy my wife an LCP.     Is there a simple explanation why .22LR can't be handloaded (not necessarily reloaded)?  Isn't it just the case, powder, and bullet?  I would think that the lack of primer would make it easier to manufacture.  I understand that the cases couldn't be re-used, but if dies and the supples were available, could you just make your own using new cases?

It may be wishful thinking, but sometimes people in power can have dramatic changes in opinion.  In Georgia, the Speaker of the House was opposed to church carry initially, but after hearing persuasive arguments, he supported it the next year.  Now we sort of have church carry (Senate added opt in language at the last minute).   Are there any influential gun rights supporters that get to have actual, earnest conversations with the Powers that Be in Tennessee?