tmauto769

meh, you don't need that according to your man, all you need is a single shot one. Right?

I bought my wife one for one of her first guns, and I felt really bad about it afterwards, it is really junk. Doesn't matter what spring is in it, we have done that dance many times. The only two rounds that will cycle in it(somewhat) are cci mini-mags and golden bullets. I felt so bad I went out and got her the M&P22 and that thing runs like a sewing machine, I have the victory and it runs everything I have thrown in it as well. Pop pop you are one lucky person, you are the only one I have heard say anything good about the mosquito, it's a shame too as I really wanted to like it.

I don't like that midway just keeps your card info on file. So every time I order something I have to go back in and delete my card info. I am not a fan of any site that does that.

Thank you for that, I just printed that off as I have the 9th as well.

yes it is common, because the majority of the .30 cal bullets that are out there were never designed for this caliber. What I do in that situation is find out where the powder column ends (w/super sonic loads obviously) in the case with whatever charge I am working with and seat the bullet a little above that and run it. It has worked good for me so far. Also I am aware you can do compressed charges, but I prefer not to do that on something that is kind of an unknown, so where ever the cannelure ends up being with my method, so be it.

I have 2 .30 cal, 1 .22, and 1 .45 cans, I personally would skip the 9mm can on a pistol, on a carbine they are ok. On a pistol they seem cool in theory, but in practice they are clumsy. I use my .30 cals most of the time, the .22 is fun but I don't use it much, the .45 one I ended up just leaving it on a .300 black out SBR which rarely gets used. Even though I don't use the .22 much I still think it was worth the cost of admission, it was around $400 OTD (including the stamp) and the giggle factor with that one was worth it.

possibly, I had to talk to an IRS agent earlier this summer and that is what I had to resort to in order to get someone on the line. Luckily for me the guy that answered was the dept. I needed to talk to. I just started pushing prompts for something other than what I needed, and it worked go figure. lol. oh yeah, there was a prompt for me to input my ss# which I did nothing and that's when the guy answered, hmmmm.

I agree. I don't know what the actual difference in a magnum vs a regular primer is, but according to my magnetospeed, not much to nothing at all.

I have used small rifle in pistol many times in the past without any ill side effects. I have read in the past that you can't use pistol primers in rifle though. Not sure why and have never tried that. Unrelated to this particular post, but I just loaded some 6.5 creedmoor with Magnum LR along side with regular LR primers with the exact same load and over a magnetospeed they were pretty much dead nuts to each other in velocity and point of impact. Take all that with a grain of salt, use at your own risk etc, etc......

for your stated uses, hunting and occasional range day, I am going against the grain here and saying SFP. FFP on lower powers at shorter ranges isn't ideal, I personally lose the reticle on my FFP scopes in that situation. In a hunting situation I would imagine that would be even more less than ideal, imo.

yes that is what I did to mine, it has worked just fine since I did it.

mine had fte when I first got it and if I remember right I bent mine in but if you bend it too far it hits something in there. Sorry I can't be more helpful on the actual bending part but I am going off memory and its been a couple of years. With that being said mine has worked really well with few problems after that, either running with a can or not.

Had a nano and a shield, to me the nano was a little "snappier" on the recoil than the shield. I was a little less accurate with it because of that. So another vote for the shield.

They have this rebate going on until 9/2. I just bought an m&p45 mid size for $350 then with the $50 rebate couldn't say no. https://www.smithandwessonrebates.com/media/uploads/1530115228880.pdf eh, but not for shields, my bad.

I drilled my .45 cal form 1 ss baffles with a drill press and it worked just fine. Although a lathe would be ideal, it wasn't absolutely necessary. I don't remember the actual size of the bit, but I think it was .060" bigger. With aluminum baffles I would just drill them .25" and call it a day, it will work just fine. Those baffles you have look pretty beefy so I am confident it will work great. Also you have a pretty good sized center point already started so I don't think you will have a problem with the bit walking, mine were a lot smaller so I really had to slow my drill press down and take my time. Actually looking at them again they look like ss. what size tube? It has been a couple of years now since I have done mine but now that I am thinking about it my form 1 .45 was a ss spacer for the blast chamber, the first baffle was ss, and the rest were aluminum. My .30 cal form 1 was 100% ss and to my ear that one is just as quiet as my form 4 Thompson Machine Thirty with a monocore. After doing two form 1's and buying two form 4's it made me realize how overpriced suppressors really are.

I got a victory when they first came out, and had failures to eject with mine for awhile. After a search on google I found out that the ejector on some of the earlier ones were bent so that they weren't contacting the case. So after bending it back in a hair, it has worked great since, suppressed or not. I also really like the sights on this gun as well. I have had great results with rem golden bullets, although looking at them you wouldn't think so, as they look like they washed them off in a mud puddle after they were loaded.

I have a PC shield in .45(had one in 9 at one time) my wife has a G43, they are both great guns, I wear an XXL size glove so the 43 is a bit hard for me to keep a hold of when shooting, so that is why I went with an s&w over a glock. The .45 is even a little bigger than the 9 so for me that is even better. I say whichever fits you better, because none of ours have ever had any failures and all of them are reasonably accurate for their size.

it is based on an ar15 lower, it is just marked valkyrie, I assume because some people are finicky about things like that. Mine, I just slapped a valkyrie barrel and BCG in one of my guns that I wasn't using, as I was thinking this would be the cheapest way for me to get into the caliber in case it is a flop I won't be out much. 6.5 creedmoor is in the AR10 family btw.

so I am guessing changing out the barrel to one with normal lands and grooves of the same length would put you in some hot water eh?

I agree, I don't see the problem with the $200 stamp, waiting 7"ish"months and having the real thing, or just slap a pistol brace on one and acting like it is the real thing. I think this is more of a "we did it" although it sucks, we did it thing. Also how long will it be before the BATF backpedals on this one.

M9A3, and a colt gold cup trophy.

Mine says made in Gallatin as well. I will say this is one of the best shooting berettas I have ever owned. I find this hard to believe just from how well mine seems to be made.

doh, I guess that would have helped. Yes it is at Palmetto State Armory Sorry about that.

Just picked up a vortex 1-8 strike eagle with a vortex cantilever mount for $269 Have to put "strikeeagle" in the coupon code box

do you have a name of the place or number? google didn't turn anything up in sneedville.