glockster157

Once again, I began shooting revolvers in 1981 while I was stationed in Warner Robbins Georgia. I also started reloading and bullet casting to save money. A friend and I would load up about 500 rounds of hot 38's(we were poor Airman) and head to the sand pits on Saturdays. I have put 500+ rounds of dirty, lead bulleted loads using military brass(got it free) and Unique, many, many times. I had a SW 28 most of the time, he had a Colt Python and Trooper. We would shoot those things till they were grease covered messes and never had a malfunction. I would be happy to take my 686/GP100/19/66/28, etc through a 500+ round day of any of shooting with factory level ammo. Since I have never had a breakage in 30 years, I think I am pretty safe. As to the 200 to a 1000 round auto break in period....forget that. I don't have the patience or the wallet for that much non-sense. Buy a new car and tell the customer, "Oh, it will fail to start, stop in the middle of the road for the first 500 miles, etc", or work those doors, trunk lid, hood, until they stop squeaking and popping, put a little lube on them.....Yeah, see how that goes over.

Anything but a Sigma would be my advice.

I have never had a revolver fail. I maintain my revolvers, I only keep quality revolvers, and O have yet to have a stoppage. I wish I could say that about my autos. Glock is number one. Had one bad 36, Beretta would be next, and every 1911 I have ever had has been magazine or ammo finicky except real mil-spec guns with good mags and hardball. I like my autos, I carry my autos but when I need 100% +, I grab a revolver.

Sorry, first time I had seen it.

You all are joking but don't put it past me to try it. I hate large grips. Of course now I have to wait for the slim grip I ordered from Brownells but I might try to come up with something slimmer. There are several pistols I really like without grip panels installed. The Browning High Power and the Beretta 92 come to mind as well as all Sigs.

I don't plan to shoot it any more until I get the parts from Midway. Thanks

You might try posting that on Beretta Forums, I doubt a local shop will stock it unless it is the same as a 92 and even then maybe not.

I have large hands with short fingers. I can handle a 92 OK but I have found it to be large for me also, but this 90-two, I can barely get a decent grip on it Feels pretty good with the grip off and just holding the frame, maybe I can just put grip tape on the frame

I picked up a an 11-87 and it is pretty nice. I tried shooting some dove loads and had some failures to eject. So I field stripped it and noticed, compared to the schematic, that it does not have a gas piston/seal or a barrel O ring seal. I ordered them from Midway already. But I was wondering, it was working without them mostly. Is there something you are supposed to change to shoot higher pressure loads?

If that is for real that has got to be the dumbest guy in the world. Or he gets all his shotgun handling training from Daffy Duck or Elmer Fudd!

Just picked up a Beretta 90-two, this is one big 9mm. Just a FYI to anyone that may have one, I ordered the thin grip from Brownells last night for 14.99 and they marked it down to 11.31 on check out. So if you have one and want a thinner grip, now is the time to get it. I have not had time to shoot it yet but I do hope it is better than a 92. I have never been impressed by the accuracy of my previous 92's.

The gold grease that comes on Glocks I have examined out of the box is a Anti-seize lube and it is supposed to be cleaned off before you shoot the pistol. They put that on the guns because they are produced in such large numbers and stored for such long periods of time. Used to be a Glock stocking dealer. Permatex, I believe, also offers that same anti seize lube. I am not familiar with the allow that Glock makes the rails from but I am sure that it is tough. It could be that the color is normal and may just be a coating wearing through.

OK, not a true story but a good joke(much truth in it though) If you tell the Marines to secure a building they will attack it with tanks and helicopters, you tell the Army to secure a building they will set a perimeter and make sure no one goes in or out without proper ID, tell the Navy to secure a building and they will lock the doors and turn out the lights, tell the Air Force to secure a building they will get you a 3 year lease with an option to buy....that is why I joined the Air Force!

Just a note from the website, it does not work with vibratory cleaners and seems to require detergent water and rinsing. Brass looks like it turns out bright but I already have 2 vibratory cleaners so I cannot afford to switch. Didn't someone make SS ball type media that will work in a vibrating cleaner?

One of my favorites was a friend of mine told me he would not have a 30-06. I ask why and he said it has a weird trajectory...I ak how? He says it goes up then down and then back up again!!!, He wouldn't have anything but a 270 because it would shoot dead straight to 400 yards, he knew because he had done it. Along the lines of the ammo myths was the Germans in WWII used 8mm ammo so they could shoot out 30-06 but we couldn't shoot their 8mm. I tried to explain the 57mm case vs the 63mm case so it wouldn't work but to no avail. I used to own a gun shop also...this could go on and on and on.

I am sure it will work fine in an auto, but, I doubt it will work in a revolver as the primers will drag on the recoil shield. I still have plenty of LP primers so I will wait and try to trade some off.

Gave it a try but had about .010 Protrusion on the primer. It is enough that the case rocks a little on the table. I think I will pass on that idea. I have many years worth is LR primers I guess.

I have bought the pre-made ones with the allen screws in them to tighten them up. Did'nt work worth a hoot on mine. I would rather have a side mount if I could get it or even a peep sight. I am working on that idea for my tantal.

I will check GB, most BP pistols I have seen, especially is they have not been taken care of, sell really cheap. I have been pricing some and I want to get a nice Army and Navy Colt as well as several others. But the Ruger is intriguing as it is so strong....kinda like a modern day Walker. Just want to find one CHEAP, as I am not a hunter just a hobbyist. As to the one I was looking at, it had corrosion on the hammer and the forcing cone area. I have not seen the barrel or cylinders yet but I always pass if those components aren't clean.

I have seen a couple for sale and I thought about getting one of those just to have a strong black powder pistol with adjustable sights and the Ruger feel. I know they are expensive new but with some wear and tear and a little rust I am not sure as I don't price them.

I may try that. Might try some in a 45acp and a 44 mag, I have a chronograph, do some velocity comparisons. If nothing else it would be interesting.

After thinking about it, I still want a Navy and probably several others but I think I really want a Richards-Mason conversion repro. The shape and feel with 38 specials would be really cool. Still want the cap and ball guns too but then I could shoot when I didn't have time to go thru the black powder bath.

Careful now!, Large rifle primers are longer than large pistol primers and hotter. You should not be able to seat LR primers flush in a pistol case which means there will be some protrusion.

Y'all are making this way too complicated....I have a 45-70 and it is fun to shoot, I have a Polish Tantal and it is fun to shoot. If I didn't reload and cast bullets I would be able to enjoy the 5.45 Tantal but probably not the 45-70, factory ammo costing what it does for that caliber. Same with my 375 Win, 375 H&H and 458 Win, etc. So if you want to pay 300 per K get a 7.62x39 and if you want to pay 139 per K get a 5.45x39...or just get one of each and shoot them with both.

I will keep it in mind but don't get east very much.