glockster157

The cannelure crease below the bullet would serve no purpose on a revolver load. All the force in a revolve is trying to unseat the bullet pulling it out of the case. The feeding cycle of an auto pistol tries to shove the bullet deeper into the case. As to rings in the chambers either by accident or design is very unlikely as this would not leave an indentation into the brass but rather a swelling outward of the case. When that was pulled from the chamber it would leave a bright mark where the brass was drug across the still lip of any ring in the chamber.

That is one of the ways to crimp a case to avoid bullet set back. Set back does cause higher pressures and can be very dangerous. Reloaders normally use a taper crimp on rimless pistol cases as cannelure crimps can be hard to do and take special tools.

Since you brought the neck size up neck thickness should not be a problem. Trim them and see is they work. I would be interested just out of curiosity.

I am not sure what you are asking. The lines in the cases look like factory roll crimps. Your right in that Glock uses a rectangular firing pin and these were definitely not shot in a Glock. It could be a line in the chamber but that would be very rare....but not impossible.

Typically your 6 shot steel guns can handle +P ammo, the 5 shot guns are suspect and the older allow guns it is a no no.

I had a fit with a batch of 185 JHP's. No matter how much I crimped they wanted to set back. I reduced the size of my expander, shortened the expander also. some of the bullets were a little under sized at .4505" but still they should not have been setting back so easily. I never fully solved that problem but most of what I load is lead swc's and 230 grain ball. Never had a problem with those. Check you bullets and make sure they are not undersized, check to make sure your neck expander is not oversized and crimp tightly. Make sure the brass is within spec. Had a bunch of bad cases once. Other than that, I can't think of any thing.

Found some...never mind

I solved my problem by getting rid of the Sig for a Beretta PX4 Storm and a Colt Commander. LSWC's work fine now.

I have had my 550 since 1986 or so. Once you wear it out(not really but put some real wear on it) in about 20 years or so you can send it back to Dillon and for 25 bucks they completely rebuild it including a new powder measure and upgrades. I did mine about 2 years ago. Live in Scottsboro right down the road from you BTW. Welcome aboard.

Anybody have a set of 300 Weatherby dies they may want to swap for some other dies or something...or sell?

First off, when you buy a firearm and carry it for self defense, YOU are responsible for your weapon. If you never fire or test your weapon or skills you have no right to blame someone else. As to the weapon malfunctioning, SW gives a lifetime warranty. You should have contacted them and let them honor the warranty. You could have also asked for compensation for your trouble, like accessories or coupons for cash discounts on other items. Back to your liability question, everyone wants to sue, Any firearm is subject to fail, you can't blame a dealer for a malfunction nor can you prove that he knew a gun would malfunction and if you buy it and don't test it....well, who is really to blame. Buy a revolver...they work.

With the recoil of rifle like that you need a well made scope. I would recommend a good used Leupold. They have a lifetime warranty that they actually honor so I have never gone wrong with them. Plus they are really good scopes. I would look for a 4-12x40 or even bigger unless I was going to be hunting in heavy cover.

First, if I were the one to have bought the pistol and paid shipping to SW, then got it back with the same problem, I would have demanded a call tag from SW to make them pay shipping the second time and demanded a new pistol. If I were the dealer and had to face an irate customer under these circumstances I probably would have given you credit on your purchase and sold you the new pistol...I would collect the tax and tics. If the dealer would not do that, I would take my business else where. I won't get nailed by the manufacturer and the dealer. You let the dealer get you. You should name the dealer so we will know how they worked with you.

I have been in and around the gun business for 30 years and I must warn you that most gun dealers are just like used car dealers. They do not put a lot of effort or money out unless they have to. They clean and look over a gun and stick it right in the rack. There may be exceptions, I have not met them yet. I have bought many a lemon from individuals and shops. It has taught me a lot of what to look for and avoid, I also have become competent at fixing most minor problems. Auto pistols have definitely gotten better over the years thanks to CNC machining but they all can still be finicky....except Glock of course

What kind of scope? There is a big difference between a 59 dollar scope and an 159 dollar scope.

I am going by what I have seen him purchase locally in the last couple of months. Most of the pistols were in the 75 to 85 percent range. Hey, in this economy, cash is king.

I have a friend who collects them. I am not that savvy to the pricing on the 380's but he finds them quite often at local gun shows. I know the 32's run in the 325 to 425 range, I think the 380's run a bit higher but they are quite available.

I have the 300 Weatherby, according to chuck hawks this is the trajectory tables comparing the two, [TABLE] [TR] [TD]Cartridge (Wb@MV)[/TD] [TD]Bullet BC[/TD] [TD]100 yds.[/TD] [TD]200 yds.[/TD] [TD]MRT@yds.[/TD] [TD]MPBR (yds.) [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE] [TR] [TD].300 Wby. Mag. (180 Sp at 3250)[/TD] [TD].483[/TD] [TD]+2.4"[/TD] [TD]+2.6"[/TD] [TD]3"@155[/TD] [TD]320[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD].300 Ultra Mag (180 Sp at 3250)[/TD] [TD].483[/TD] [TD]+2.4"[/TD] [TD]+2.6"[/TD] [TD]3"@155[/TD] [TD]320[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Lee does make a hand press. I used to take it to the range with a small scale but sometimes I just used the Lee dippers. It worked really well and could use regular dies.

Well, when it comes to explaining physics it is all Greek to me. However, Since I have been reloading and shooting 32 years I still have an opinion. Look at a 38 for example. You load a 125 grain bullet with 5.3 grains of WW 231 for a 1000 fps and 19800 CUPS or you load 158 grain bullet with 4.7 grains of WW 231 for 825 fps and the same pressure range. The way I have always looked at it is the total of bullet weight and charge weight with equal pressure, the heavier load will have more felt recoil. in this case you either pushing 133.3 grains or 162.7 grains...which one is heavier? All the charts I have ever seen in books and magazines seem to coincide with my findings. I can really tell the difference in my 45-70 or 458. Dramatic difference between light bullets and heavy bullets, even in low velocity loads. So if you want lighter recoil, go for standard velocity loads with lighter bullets. IMHO.

What exactly is funny about it Dude? I have owned many 1911's. I have owned a gun shop and a indoor range. I am speaking from experience. There are many different 1911 manufacturers today, many do not build to John Moses Brownings original specifications. Say what you will, I have been on the range with brand new Colts, Kimbers, Springfields, Para's, Cheapo's, etc. with all types of ammo and I have experienced the jams(most out of the box) first hand, not something I heard about. So what are you trying to say?

Never mind, I found them, New England Custom Gun Services LTD, expensive little suckers too.

There are no markings on these but they are well made. They are quick detachable and have tension screws on both bases. They are 30mm rings and I would like to see what 1" rings would cost, but I have no idea of the maker. They are not Leupold/Redfield, Weaver, or Millet. They don't look anything like Talley or SK. Any Ideas? Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img] http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/6493/mounts4.jpg' alt='mounts4.jpg'> Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img]

How to you short stroke a revolver trigger? Regardless, this does prove a major point and a major difference in revolver verses pistol. A revolver has multiple chambers, a pistol only one. If a revolver does misfire, pull the trigger again. No tap-rack-bang drills. As to those that have had revolver breakages, they are the exception, not the rule. Most bad revolvers I have seen over the years have come from home gunsmithing. I have seen bad revolvers out of the box from the factory. I cannot recall a revolver breaking in my hands while I was shooting it, that includes ejecting....and as a reloader and caster, I have shot a lot in all calibers. I have had a few things go wrong with my reloads early on while i was learning that caused some sticky ejection, but all I had to to was tap the rod against the table. Never let that happen again. I have never had a rimmed case jump the extractor star.

Several reasons I said to avoid a Sigma...Are they a reliable pistol, yes...Are they ergonomic, yes...are they inexpensive, yes...do they horrendous triggers, yes....does this make learning to shoot properly more difficult, yes...can the trigger be fixed as stated above, NO!....I have 30+ years gun experience and I have been in the firearms business twice. I bought a couple of new Sigmas a while back and sent one to a certified SW pistol shop for a trigger job. It helped but was still very hard and a lot of creep. So I picked up a used 9mm to experiment with. I tried all sorts of springs and polished everything till it looked like chrome. Fixed some of the creep and pistol was unreliable in rapid fire. Put the factory springs back in and it became reliable again but back to that God awful trigger. I tried several more times with different weight and types of springs, including leaving out that small one that people say you can on you tube....you can't. Buy a good used Ruger P series pistol (P85/P89/P94/P95) or better yet find a clean SW 3rd Generation auto( 3900/5900/6900/4000 Series), now those were some real pistols. Also 2nd Gen Glock police trade-ins can be had cheap as can Beretta 92/96 police trade-ins.