glockster157

I have my notifications turned on to instant email for threads I am subscribed to but I never get emails. I have to go to User CP to see if there are responses to threads, even threads I started or just surf.

Those are nice. I sold my Garand a while back and it wasn't as nice as those. I wish I had the money, I don't think they will last long.

I called Hodgon yesterday to confirm some of what I have read and what Musicman told me. According to the technician at Hodgon, H110 is the same powder as W296, H414 is the same powder as W760 and finally HP38 is the same powder as W231. Now he emphasized same not similiar. He said they poured the same powder into both bottles. Good to know as it cuts my inventory greatly as these are some of my very favorite powders.

There are some rifle and pistol combos that are possible but we are not talking 30-06 and 38spl. My 45-70, I have used 2400, AA MP5744, H110/296, reduced loads with Unique. 30 Carbine(I know, glorified pistol round), H110/296, 2400, 1680. Not great examples. but magnum pistol powders or medium burning pistol powders with lots of filler can be used for reduced velocity loads in many rifles.

When I have ordered from Gunbroker, CDNN, Summit, I pay them first including shipping. They ship to my dealer pre-paid. My dealer runs paper on me and delivers the gun, I pay the $10 Tics fee and his processing fee and that is it. Some say they are supposed to collect sales tax but I didn't buy the gun from him, he in only performing a service.

Try pointing them with one hand, either straight forward or to the right if you are right handed. Mine have always been level. If I drop into a modified Weaver it points high for me and I have to work on that. I am just curious if this happens to others.

Thanks David. On the monarks, of course they must be brass, take a light and look down the neck of the case, if there are 2 small holes then they are Berdan primed and they are too much trouble to reload as berdan primers are hard to come by and removing berdan primers is too much trouble. If there is a single hole then it is boxer primed and they are fine. If they are crimped, look into getting the Dillon primer pocket swager. I tried every other thing on the market before I fianlly broke down and bought one. I could kick myself for not doing it years ago as it works perfectly and much better than anything else I have ever tried. So, if you ever have to do large quantities of military brass, you can either get a Dillon swager or bring them to my house , I will just swipe a few.

If you like the size and feel of a Beretta you should keep your eyes open for a D model. They make them in several flavors, 92, Cougar, PX4 or any D model. They have one of the smoothest, cleanest DA trigger I have ever felt. It is like shooting a good revolver and I really like the fact there is no safety and each trigger pull is the same. Another advantage is that they usually sell for a lot less as they are not popular. I picked up a Cougar 8000D a while back for next to nothing LNIB, dopey me got a itch for something else and I sold it. Next time, just wait till next time.

I just bought a Lone Wolf conversion barrel for my G27. Works well so far except I think I will put a 9mm ejector in it as the 125 grain lead loads I was shooting at 1050 were just barely clearing the ejection port. The 115 jacketed at 1140 were flinging out good. Go figure?

I have had a Dillon RL 550 since 1985 or so. I have loaded everything on and yes, it can handle anything from a 25acp to a 460 Weatherby Magnum. That being said, I never load large rifle rounds on it because I don't shoot that way. I load all my pistol ammo and my 223 ammo for my AR's with it now. When I had a M1 Garand, I did some loads on the Dillon but I did not shoot it enough to do it often. As stated earlier, most of my bolt action and single shot rifle ammo gets trimmed, usually "neck sized only" if the round was fired in that rifle, powder charges get weighted, so forth and so on. Don't let me confuse you about powder charges in the Dillon, using ball or spherical powders that don't stack, the Dillon powder measure is dead on. It will accurately load any rifle caliber caliber of any size. Once I used a neck sizer die in 223, using match primers, 55 grain Sierra Blitz bullets and fireformed cases, I loaded 50 rounds on the Dillon and 50 by hand on the Rock Chucker. I shot them against each other in a Sako heavy barrel Vixen I had at the time. There was no difference in group sizes between the rounds. Both shot around 3/8 to 1/2". Wish I still had that rifle. I did that to test if I ever had a chance to go west to hunt prairie dogs, I wouldn't need but around 250 cases for each rifle and I could reload them in the evening quickly on the Dillon. Never had the chance to go yet.

I tried a LDA one time. It was ok for me at best. Some may love it but it just seemed like a weird 1911 to me. My 1911's will be 1911's or I won't get one at all.

The whole quote/signature I originally put up was "Those who can survive are the only ones worth surviving. Fighting for your life isn't the same as murder. Where do you draw the line once you know what the enemy is? How long would the Nazis have kept it up...if every Jew they came after had met them with a gun in his hand? But I learned from them, General Black. Oh, I learned." Walter Mathau Fail Safe 1964 This is from Walter Mathaus character, Professor Groeteschele, responding to General Black in the movie Fail Safe from 1964. I thought the statement one of the best Hollywood lines I had ever heard. Did not mean to offend anyone. I shortened it as I thought it too long but I will put references back in. I would also like to state that I am a born again, Bible believing, Spirit Filled Christian who loves Israel and the Jewish people because they are the apple of Gods eye. I do not for the life of me understand why so many are liberal and for stong gun "control". Now Back to the Glock issue

I have 3 full pounds of AA #5 that I listed for trade in the classifieds. Not a thing wrong with it, I picked it up in a trade and I tried some from a 4th pound and it was OK but not as good in my guns as 231/HP38 has been over the years. I decided I did not want to spend the bullets and primers working up new loads when I could just buy an 8lb jug of 231 and be done with it. I use it in my 9mm/45acp/38spl loads almost exclusiely now, though I still use Bullseye and Unique also for some.

Just sold one and you are right. It is a very good 1911 for the money and I will get another. I will get a Commander or Officers size gun and will be proud to own it if it shoots as well as the 5" I had. It was not really any cheaper than I have picked up good used Glocks for but it did weigh a ton more, but I really liked it. I think they are the best value in 1911's out there right now. I have had 1911's that cost a bunch more than that RIA and did not perform half as well. I still carry a Glock 27 or a SW642 though. I mean, I am staking my life on these guns.

I would like to take a moment and have a little fun as it is slow this morning and I have no doubt this has been discussed ad nauseam so I apologize up front. But there are new readers on occassion so I don't guess it hurts. Things I like about Glocks. 1. They are 100% reliable or at least as far as that is possible and in my experience. The only feeding problem I have ever experienced, ever, with the many, many Glocks I have owned or used is with a early 36. I believe this issue has been resolved in later models. 2. They are lightweight for there size. I realize they are a little thicker than a 1911, but they are a far sight lighter also. I do wish they made a single stack 9mm or 40sw. 3. Anybody can take one apart and put it back together with very little training. Parts are very inexpensive compared to other firearms and you can pretty much do it with a single punch, no special tools required. 4. It may be polymer but it is durable. I never have to worry about rust and corrosion. There was even one case where a Glock 21 was lost shark fishing in salt water, recovered over 6 months later, cleaned and fired without issue. Others have been dragged, dropped, shot, ran completely dry, ran covered in oil, mud covered, frozen, etc. and they still work. 5. To really upset some I think the Glock points better one handed than a 1911, though I would agree it a 1911 seems to point better in a modified Weaver. But for a close range self defense gun I think this is a good thing as I may to use it one handed. Try it. Whip a Glock out in one hand straight down range and I find it quite level. With a two handed combat stance I find I have to practice to keep the barrel as low as a 1911. Just me maybe. 6. I could buy 6 Glocks for the price of a high end custom 1911. I could buy 3 Glocks for the price of a medium priced 1911. I could buy a Glock of choice a whole bunch of accessories and ammo for the price of a good quality 1911. 7. Tons of aftermarket accessories at reasonable prices Some things I don't like, 1. No real external safety so it must be carried in a holster or with a trigger block. 2. Thickness, they are a little on the thick side. 3. Looks, they won't win a beauty contest, but ugly is as ugly does. 4. Not supposed to shoot lead in factory barrel. I can't say the "kaboom" issue is something I don't like but it is real I believe in the 40sw. I have experienced it once but it was my fault. I had been shooting lead as an experiment. Thought I had got it all out plus the ammo I shot at the next range was some cheap American stuff that had been in my trunck so it was very warm. I blew a case head. Did'nt hurt the gun. Found some lead traces in the barrel. Cleaned again, changed mags, still going. I could go on and on but I think I have said enough for now.

I have been in the gun business twice (total 9 years) in a life where I have been an active shooter and re-loader since 1981. In that time I have owned many 1911's. I have sold and shot many others. I like 1911's. I have seen many 1911's that were completely unreliable. The majority of middle priced guns, i.e., basic Colts, SA, some Kimbers were finicky at best. The shorter the more finicky. Many of the early cheap lines were totally unreliable, i.e. Auto Ordinance, Charles Daly, and a bunch of others with names I cannot remember. I am not saying that all were this way. I just sold enough and had to deal with enough to know this to be true. Many prblems were magazine related. Many others were just because they were poorly assemled or finicky about ammo. There pure military type 1911A1's I have shot recently seem to be worlds better and I have had no problems with the last couple I have had thank goodness. But I still have a SW 4563TSW as my primary 45 carry gun as it has always been 100%. That being said, why are 1911's still viable. 1. They are thinner than most and easier to conceal. 2. They are 45's so most feel comfortable with 7-8 rounds. (I only carry 8 rounds in my Glock 27 myself) 3. They are available in LW framed models that are much easier to carry. 4. Nostalgia to a certain extent. 5. Great trigger's, well, at least on some. 6. They are somewhat easier to accureize and many are very accurate new. 7. It is a cool thing to carry to prove your gun savvy. I am sure there are many more reasons. Hey, if you like them and you have one that is 100% and want to carry it, got for it. I like them when appropriate but most of the time I am either carrying my 27 or my SW 642. I find the easiest gun to carry is the one I will most likely have with me more often than not. As for general shooting or non-carry applications, I think everybody that is a firearms enthusiast should have or try a 1911. There are many lower priced models now that work such as Rock Islands. I recently had one that was hard for me to want to sell because it was such a good shooter but I needed the money for something else. Finally, I think it was Evan Marshall that said, his idea of a $3000 45 was a Used VW with a Glock 30 in the glove box and I have to agree.

I have been reading that HP38=W231. I want to believe that as HP38 is cheaper. I need to buy a 1LB bottle and check some loads. I have seen HP38 as low as 103.00 for a 8lb bottle. That is only 12.88 a pound plus tax. I will just have to make that call to Winchester I guess. Anybody need some AA #5?

Wouldn't worry about it. I have shot many, many cases that were dented. Some were dented by previous ejections and in my early days I have dented some by using too much case lube. As soon as you shoot it, it will remove that dent and if fired in the same gun it will make a new one. The only thing I would be concerned about is if there were a sharp edge on your gun, I am not familiar with Saigas ejection ports, that was not just denting but actually cutting or creasing a spot on the case. That would weaken the case at that spot and I would not reload and shoot that case again but I would also be finding out what part of the gun was that sharp and be fixing it....one way or another as I reload all my ammo. A cut or sharp crease could rupture under pressure and damage you or the gun...or both.

I hate to say this is a little crazy to me. There is no way I am going to carry a 92 cocked because there is no "locked". Once the hammer is cocked the trigger is set with little to no take up and probably 4-5lb trigger pull. It is not designed to be carried that way nor should it be. Some will scream Glock, but a Glock it is designed to be carried loaded and ready, it does have a trigger blocking safety which does have a bit of take up and is intentionally stiff, where the Beretta trigger is fairly easy to pull. Carrying the 92 cocked would be like carrying a revolver cocked which nobody I know would do. I highly recommend against it.

I have used 0000 steel wool and Rig grease many times to remove rust. Rub lightly and you probably could use any oil but I prefer something a little thicker. Feel as you go and try and remove all the high spots. When your done you can , if desired, degreaae the barrel completely and use a little cold blue to touch up. If helps to run the metal clean with acetone don't just spray it with a cleaner and heat the metal until it is warm to the touch. Also, you may use the 0000 steel wool to rub the bluing on if it is a large area(s) as it seems to cover a little more evenly that way. Use several coats if necessary and let it set a while before you re-oil. I have had real good results with this method.

I have been looking for a good deal on a 8 lb bottle of WW231. If anybody runs across a deal on 231 in the middle TN area please post a note or PM me. Midsouth is out and mist local stores are kinda high.

I think if I were going to go that far and spend that much I would look at something a little bigger than a 338 win mag. That is a good elk caliber and is good for thin skinned game. If that is all you plan to hunt and you don't expect to ever run into dangerous game then it might be a good choice. If it were me, I would like at something like a 375 H&H, 458 Win Mag, 458 Lott, probably in a good Mauser action. A real 98 if I could find one. I would use a low power, high quality scope like a 1.5-6. Have BUIS in either express sights or peep type, something you can acquire quickly under stress. Just some thoughts. Plus, we can cast some bullets and load those big cartridges down to 45/70 levels and plink for fun. Save up some more WW's for that. Also, there is always Alaska, "grizzar bear" as Will Geer might say.

One other thing, make sure the 6 mags are Ruger mags. Ruger factory or Mec-Gar are the only mags I would consider. Things like no name mags or Promags are junk and are not worth much of anything. If they areRuger mags and you want to be fair try to get it for $375 to $400. If they are not I wouldn't go tover $350 unless you are just wanting to be charitable. Land I agree with those that have already stated, Ruger P series guns are built like tanks but are kinda bulky but they make good house/car/range guns. They also have 2 different kind of safeties. One model has a trigger disconnecting safety and the D model is a decker only. I would want the decocking only model myself as I like that style.

Wow, I didn't know that taking a rifle out of the stocks could mess it up so bad I might have to send it back to the factory. I guess I have gotten awful lucky the past 30 years doing that because when I put them back together,after cleaning and usually adjusting the trigger, checking bedding, tightening things up, I put it all back together and get better groups than when I started. I never, ever buy new as most folks just shoot the gun a few times and then put it away. Have I ever got burned....not really. Case in point, Not long ago I traded a fellow for a Ruger #1B in 22-250. He let it go pretty cheap. I got it home and found he had jacked around with the quarter rib mount. Found the Millet Buck Gold scope that was on it was bad and to try and get it on paper he had tried to raise the rib. He must have thought something was wrong with the rifle. I removed his shims, replaced the screws with new ones, sent the lifetime warrantied scope back to Millet which they replaced with a brand new one for free and now it shoots wonderfully to point of aim and groups good as well. I also tightened the but stock as they are bad about getting loose. If you don't know how to work on firearms I suppose it would be better to leave it to someone else but If you put a mechanical device back together the way it is supposed to go it will work the way it was designed to work. If you understand the engineering of it you can take the time to fine tune a massed produced prodoct and tweak it to make it a little better. Leave those used rifles to me, that is fine by me.

I have been told many times "more guns are ruined by improper or over cleaning than by shooting" and after reading this thread I believe it. For me it depends on the gun and type of ammo. My Glocks get wiped and lubed if necessary, usually just wiped(and that is to keep the fouling off of me). My SS handguns will get cleaned when they get funky, if I shoot a few test load in the back yard they are not funky enough yet. Blued guns get a lot more attention, the outsides stay Rigged (that is Rig Gun Grease). My rifles get cleaned less often, usually every 50 rounds or so or until groups start opening up. I shoot them a lot less so it takes a while to get to 50+, but they get wiped every time they are handled, again with a Rig rag. Never had a rust issue, guns group and function perfectly. Again, the guns I don't worry about, runs dry, runs wet, runs dirty, just runs, the dreaded GLOCK.