glockster157

OK, I picked up a stock and learned this. All the interarms actions are the same length from 22-250 to 300 mag. They just used a smaller magazine and throated the actions for the short cartridges. The mini mauser was made for the 223 size cases and the Whitworths were magnum length for the 375 H&H and 458 Win Mag's.

I have not shot the little pistol off a bench yet. It probably is more accurate that me but it is still more fun than my target pistols and fits a lot of my holsters. 

I agree that it is not atack driver. I had a sweet Ruger MKII with the 6 7/8th inch barrel that would drive tacks.....it was not nearly as much fun as this little 17.5 ounce pistol.. Reading reviews the only problems I saw were some of the early ones did not have the steel pin in the slide stop cut and the steel slide stop was gouging the slide badly. Luckily this one has the steel pin. Also luckily, I didn't realize how hard it is to get mags for these little suckers, so to get a handful with it is nice.

I picked up a like new Ruger SR22 with a bunch of mags. It has shot everything well except Stingers. I am having a blast with it. I need a small grip for it and some of the pinky extensions as they were missing but I am fine with the large grip. But I want my wife to shoot it well so I have to get a small grip for it. But it is the most fun I have had in a while.

Does anyone know what action lengths the Interarms Mark X mausers came in? I have one in 243 and I am interested in a new stock but I can't tell if it is a short action or not. It measures a little over 6.5" from the front of the receiver to the back of the bolt release.

What is so bad is I had the money, I could have bought them easily........Ugh! woulda, shoulda, coulda,  :yuck:

About a year ago I was at the Murfreesboro gun show and a guy had 3 second generation Colts. A 51 Navy with a Dragoon trigger guard(that thru me a little as I had never seen that) and 1861 round barrel 44 and a 49 Pocket. All were new in box and unfired. I talked him down to 900 for all three but a good friend of mine(older and experienced in BP) tells me that you can't give away BP pistols. So I passed. Now I kick myself in the butt every time I remember that day.

Yes on the small colts...I was more interested in the 1849 and a 3rd model Dragoon. This pistol is brass framed and I thought it would be a good one to start with cause it is cheap. Once I am sure I will stick with it I want the steel ones....all of them. Or as many as I can afford.

I have been putting the wads between the powder and the ball...but I read it doesn't matter. What brand wads do you get?

I picked up a Pietta Confederate a couple days ago. Had a chance to shoot it this afternoon over the chronograph and had some interesting results. I was using CCI 11 caps, .454 round balls, traditions wool wads and I tried both Pyrodex P and RS. Turns out I got better velocity and consistency out of the RS than I did the P. Gotta get some BP FFF to try. Also, I picked up some Ballistol and mixed it 25/75% with water, it is supposed to neutralize the acids and salts. Cleaned up well.

Save yourself a lot of trouble trying to reinvent the wheel. Look up six gun loads of Elmer Keith (father of the 44 Magnum) and buy a pound of 2400. Unless you have a really long barrel and are using heavy bullets don't worry about H110/W296(same powder BTW) as they are tempting because the books make them look better but in my experience they give a lot more blast, are not as accurate and do not work well as an all around powder in the 357.. As to mid range loads I use to use tons of Unique but I switched to 231 years ago....just worked well in  lot of mid range calibers and was cleaner....you shoot hundreds of cast bullet loads with Unique in a SS revolver and it will be black LOL! I have used the old Lyman +P load of 5.2 grains of 231 and 158 grain lead semiwadcutter for years and years and all my 357's have shot it well.

One thing to keep in mind is the rifling. Most of the Marlins are going to be micro groove except the cowboy guns. Remington switch it back to 6 groove rifling. So if you want to shoot mainly lead bullets like I do then I want the normal rifling

Yes, you can shoot 44 specials, it may hold 1 extra in 44 special...I have not tried it in a while. There is a marlin forum and I think they have  date sticky

I had a Sig P250, it was pretty nice. I agree the Ruger P95 is a good value. I picked up a Kahr CW9 for under 350 and it has been Awesome. Any 3rd gen SW would be great and most can be had below 400. Check out Summit Gun Broker on line. I have bought several from him.

In my opinion, most pistols are shot very little by owners. Even if they are shot a lot most are not hurt. I gave up on buying new years ago. Look at the used market, especially from another TGO member. I don't have one right now to sell but I have had many very good 9mm and 45's I would have sold....many for 350. I found a Ruger KP345 a while back and bought it way under your price and it has been the most accurate 45 I have ever shot.....go figure.

Sounds like you have a bedding problem. You look at a crown and get a good idea of it's condition. If the machine tool marks are concentric, probably so fine you can't see them, there are no knicks or gouges, no burrs and the chamfer is even. One old trick is to drag a cotton ball over the muzzle and see if any burrs grab some cotton.   But I have to agree with Leroy, sounds like a bedding issue, I would start by floating the barrel.

I have never had a CZ 452/453 that wouldn't shoot. I doubt seriously it is the crown on the rifle. If scoped check your bases, rings and scope, Try different ammo, how does it group at 25, Any info would be helpful.

Forget vinegar and make yourself some Ed's Red....use it all the time. http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

Lyman, Lyman.....did I say Lyman....what is really bad as much as I love Lyman manuals I buy RCBs equipment. I taught myself to reload from Lyman manuals but I never thought their equipment was as good as RCBS.

Picked up a decent litlle rifle and I have been reloading since 1980, so I have lots of trading fodder. I can buy but I only want enough to make a box or two that I can reload.

I always look to Elmer Keith.....I have not been able to prove him wrong yet. If you can find some of his 173 grain cast lead bullets( I cast my own) and 13.5 grains of 2400 with standard primers it is a really good load. H110/296 is the same powder...no different coating, the same. But I have found it inconsistent in shorter barrels. AA9 is good and cleaner but I have such a history with 2400 I cannot leave it. For a combination of accuracy, velocity, and proven track record that is my first choice always. Do some research on sixguns.com.

I don't think propane gets hot enough for what I'm doing. Might work for pottery but not heat treating.

I do not currently have access to one....if you don't know them I doubt they would let you waltz in and treat an AK receiver

I am building an AK and and I need to heat treat the receiver....I have everything but  kiln or access to some way of heating the receiver to 1600+ degrees. Anybody got one?

Glock 19 gets my real vote