glockster157

If you don't wish to fire the round in the chamber you may want to squirt a little of that clp down the barrel. All that salt in the sweat probably corroded the case in the chamber more than it did anything to the slide or the rails. BTW, you don't have one of those trigger blocks in do you? If the trigger cannot move rearward it is a lot harder to work the slide with the weapon cocked. It is hard to believe enough salt got into the slide to lock it up but I guess anything is possible. Look forward to hearing the cause because I have never seen this before.

Option 1...Soak both side of slide with CLP or equivalent. Let sit for a while or overnight. Yank away. Option 2...point in a safe direction and pull the trigger.

Just curious to know if they are keyholing at all. Sounds like a instability problem. If the bullet is long and the velocity is low, with a slow twist, the bullet will not be stable and knuckle ball or yaw when it leaves the barrel. the longer barrels of SA revolvers and lever guns could get the velocity up or there rifling may be deeper...Like I said, just curious.

Is this the guy in the big red building on Knox Rd? If not I'm sorry but if it is i took SW revolver to him for repairs. When I went to pick it up the trigger was binding and locking up. He told me it would "wear in with use" . I kinda threw a fit and made him fix it. Third trip from Nashville to Chapmansboro, pick up gun, seems ok, get it home and find every screw(including ejector rod) is loose, I mean I could unscrew them with my finger nails or fingers . Needless to say, I will never make another trip to Chapmansboro. Rating

I make a lot of my own stuff, they I do like #9 and Shooters Choice. I have also been trying some of these foaming cleaners with some good results. Never tried Sweets but I plan too when I can get a bottle. Homemade Firearm Related Products

I have always been a fan of the CorBon 135 grain load. It was rated at 1325fps with a a 135 HP. I did chrono that load and it does perform as advertised. As to short barrel loads, most any handgun is going to develop most of it's velocity in the first 2 inches of barrel with a modest increase, depending on pressure and powder burn rate, for every inch beyond that. The big advantage to fast powders in short barrels is lower muzzle flash. Any powder that is proper for the caliber and bullet will usually gain velocity in a short barrel as well as a longer barrel but the flash gets a lot worse as the barrel gets shorter. I used to shoot some of my 2400 loads in a 44 snubbie for kicks. Still gave great velocities but it was a flame thrower. Still accurate though. On the other end, again for kicks, I have loaded large quantities of H110 in a 357 w/110 grain bullets and the velocities were real erratic, from 900fps-1500fps in the same cylinder, but the flash at dusk is fantastic.

When I had a shop I used to sell these left hand for right handers all the time for just that purpose. I cannot recommend it as it is not very secure and when you draw the weapon under stress you will probably have a gun and holster in your hand. Never the less, many did it anyways. H715-M W.C. [H715-M] - $29.30 : Don Hume Leathergoods, manufactures high quality leather and nylon goods. They sell these at the shows fairly reasonable. Seems we were paying $15 or so wholesale and buying in bulk so don't get gouged. I have seen shops really marking up DH leather more than they should IMO.

I had a kimber with the poly frame and if I am not mistaken it was a Bul M5 or at least made by them. Nice gun, fairly reliable, mags were expensive. It was not that much thicker than a standard 1911 because of the lack of grip panels. My beef with it was it was too heavy with 14 rounds, same thing I disliked about my G21. If I ran across a super deal on one...like $400 or so w/box and mags, I would jump on it but it would have to be a deal. I don't think the Kimbers sold for much more than 500ish when they were new.

When I had small children or even now, if I feel the need, I use a large key ring and a lightweight zip tie. I put the zip tie around the hammer of my auto and run it thru the key ring, around the trigger guard and pull it tight. It is strong enough a child cannot pull the trigger, cock the weapon or break if you pick it up by the zip tie. But I can break the zip tie quickly by grabbing the gun and pulling the key ring hard, like a grenade pin. It is the simplest, easiest, cheapest way I have found to keep a loaded and ready firearm in my home safely.

Call Phillip at Bellshire Hardware on Dickerson road...If they have his FFL on file, and I suspect they might, you can prepay them with a CC and have them ship it to Phillip. Call and let him know it is coming and he will fix you up, call him for transfer fee. It was the lowest around but you need to speak with him.

I just updated the original post. I had forgot to change the date from March to June 27th. The trip was postponed because the land purchase for the church building was delayed. So my departure is now 8 days away....I am getting excited.

Thank you guys for your prayers and support. I will not be able to do any firearms related activities while on this trip. I hardly have time or energy to do that here anymore.

I ran into this problem one time with .224 bullets from River Valley Ordinance, will never order from them again, some of the bullets were way under in from of the crimp groove so if you pushed them they would fall into the case. They were supposed to be new bullets but many were obvious pulls.

Something I do when I want a stright walled case to hold a bullet tighter after I flare the neck is to check the neck expander pug and make sure it is not too big. If the plug, the neck of the expander, is as large as the bullet, it will not have any tension on the bullet. I usually polish those down a thousandth or so until I get a good tight bullet fit in the case. If the bullet is swelling the brass even a little when you seat it, it cannot slip into the case ay further as the it would have to swell the brass behing it to do so. Sizing the case smaller will not help if you expander plug opens it right back up.

I have had to different RCBS primer pocket swagers, both with mixed results. I have used reamers from lyman and Forrester, a lot of twisting, pain in the rear, but it works. I have used deburring tools by hand and in power tools, works but a lot of work and can be inconsistant. Bought a Dillon Swager and will never go back. Should have bought one years ago, I probably would not have traded off all that military 38spl and 308 brass.

I go thru that area a lot and I do believe there are road work signs up. They may be planning to do some night time summer work. What I hate about it is the way cops will take advantage of such situations. I have recieved 2 speeding tickets in my life and both were on Briley Pkwy due to speed limit changes for work that was not even begun, and some that never was, but the signs had been changed in advance. P'ed me off pretty bad and has really caused me to loose most respect for traffic cops as they do this stuff all the time around here. AS to the mileage issue, I have had it go both ways, I think in passenger vehicles it is variable. My old Caprice got it's best mileage at 75 while my Dodge diesel does it's best at 65 or lower. Need taller tires.

Looks to me that someone has been tinkering with the ammo again. Can't blame a Glock if you are making bombs. Really, we would need a lot more info. One other thing, I own 1911's, SW's, revolvers, Glocks, and the only one I would stake my money, and even my life if I had to, if it were thrown out of a helicopter, would be a Glock. It would be the only one I would have any confidence in to still be functional after it hit the dirt.

I tried to get some success out of the light 357 bullets in the snubbies but it is difficult. I got great velocities from 2400 which is my standard mag powder...not a big H110 fan, personal choice, but the recoil and blast were horrendous. So I tried the Bullseye, 231, #2 stuff and lost the flash but ran into pressure before I could get the velocities back up. I did try Blue Dot and got into pressure trouble quick, of course now it is not recommended for that use and it is a known problem. I just don't use Blue Dot at all anymore. I did not try Power Pistol or Herco and they may work better anyways. My solution was to go to a heavier bullet and stick with the 2400. i realize you get more recoil but it was worth it to keep the velocity. I did reduce the loads to cut down on flash and it helps some. I am sure others may have had better solutions but short of dangerous duplex loads, I couldn't find them. My final solution was to buy factory carry ammo for the snubbies, use +P 38's for practice and load my normal stuff for the longer barreled guns. Good Luck and good shooting.

RIG Gun Grease. I have used it religiously for years and I have never had any corrosion. It stays on the gun and does not evaporate or dry. Check out this corrosion test by Brownells, check plate I. Brownells - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories and Gunsmithing Tools

Not to say good or bad about the Ruger P345 as I have never owned one but I have read a lot of gun blast and Jeff Quinn. I would take any review there with a grain of salt as I have never read a negative report no matter the firearm or accessory. They seem to try to explain every problem away or minimize it like some on the major magazines do. Made up example: We had a few rounds that did not feed properly but this is a prototype and I have been assurred the production guns will have this issue resolved.....yeah, right.

Just a FYI for those who need it, the west Nashville Walmart had a bunch of 40 sw last night when I went by there. They had a few boxes of Blazer & WW 45acp also. No 9mm though.

There are two problems with sticky chambers in revolvers caused by firing 38 specials in a 357 chamber. One is simple and that is fouling. Like has been stated, just scrub it out. Use a 40 cal brush if you have to, I like to use 40 cal SS spiral brushes but I will use standard brushes if that is all I have. The second more serious problem is erosion/corrosion. If there is wear because lots of rounds have been fired the chamber can be just a little rough. I have fixed this by using a very fine scotch Brite pad on a split rod and just POLISH it out a little. Polish is the key word here, I used Super Fine Scotch Brite. The corrosion can happen in carbon steel where moister or corrosive primer residue may have actually pitted the area right in front of the 38 special case mouth. This can ususally be fixed but it has to be done more aggressively and I have never had to do it myself, though I have seen others polish out thier chambers with 400 grit, followed by polish and it seemed to work with no ill effects. I would not do this one myself without consulting a real gunsmith.

Several questions, 1. Are these factory loads or handloads? 2. Is it the same three chambers each time? 3. Are there erosion rings in the chambers where many 38 spl rounds have been fired? I would not shoot any more mag ammo until I had this issue resolved. But if you must and it is factory ammo then I suggest you use an aluminum rod to tap out the stuck cases instead of pliers to pull them out.

I have never had a problem taking the floor plate off a Glock mag. Like one of the previous posters said, stick a punch into the mag(or a I also use a small screw driver) from the bottom, shove it into the release button hole and push it in until you feel the spring retainer plate flip up, or just shove it in all the way...what I do. Them grab the mag in your hand, use your thumb against the front of the mag and take the handle of the punch/screwdriver/glock tool, whatever, and just pull the floor plate forward. It will come right off, no damage, can be done over and over again, I have done it with +2's, Pearce extenders, Scherer extenders, etc. Don't baby it , don't worry, you will not hurt it.

The problem with the forcing cones cracking on the M19/66 was the 125 grain bullets were jumping into the forcing with such force and velocity it was crystallizing the metal. I never heard of this problem with the 158's because the entry velocity into the forcing cone was not that high. A steady diet of magnum loads in a K frame will cause it to shoot loose quicker, most folks shoot 38's(+P's are fine also) and just shoot mags occasionally. I save most of my mag loads for the 686's, GP100's, N frames and single actions.