glockster157

BTW, there is a gun show this weekend at the fairgrounds. They will have primers but the price may not be pretty. They usually have a table with reloading supplies also. If you come, I will be at the table directly in front of the big pull up door, 2 aisles over, sitting with a big guy that sells knives and ammo.

What happened to the BIL deal?

There are those that do not think a lone wolf barrel is as reliable as a Glock factory barrel. I do not agree and I have had no trouble out of mine. If you want true conversion you can also pick up a 9mm ejector (I believe the extractor is the same) and any other part that is actually different, and change them in just a few minutes with nothing but a push punch. No hitting required. The 357 Sig barrel (I have not bought it yet) would be a factory barrel and since it is based on the 40sw there are no parts to change. The reason I have not done it is I have a lot of 40sw carry ammo and no 357Sig ammo. If I trade into some, I may shell out the $125 for the barrel. One more thing on the 9mm conversion. If I knew I never wanted to shoot 40sw or 357 sig, then just get a G26, but I got the conversion to shoot lots of 9mm lead bullet reloads. It is working out fine so far. I have no plans to carry the gun in 9mm, though I would not be afraid to. I have other 9mm's for that.

Congrats, you now have a machine that will last a lifetime and load just about anything out there. Enjoy and feel free to pick our little pea brains.

As far as levers go, +1 on the Marlin 39A. I have had just about everything in a 22 lever and it is tops. The Browning BL22 was a lot smaller and lighter but it would be my second choice. Didn't care for the lever. As to other 22's, forget autos, get a CZ452, they will shoot the lights out.

Call Dillon, I am sure they will have new parts on the way ASAP under warranty. And thanks, I will check mine.

Each tire will hold about 30 gallons. By the mix charts I have seen to get even close to that -20 range I would have be at 40% or better. That is 12 gallons per tire. Too expensive.

I have a G27 in 40SW. I have a Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel. I have G26 mags, I have G19 mags with fillers, I have G23 mags with fillers and I am thinking of picking up a G33 barrel in 357Sig. So basically with one frame I can build a 27,26,33 or a short barrel G23,19 or 32

To answer the question, why don't I take the tires or tractor to a tire shop or COOP and have them do it is threefold. One I do not want to haul the tractor or have to take off the tires and haul them and I do not want to deal with weighted tires off the tractor. Second, I do not want to have to pay several hundred dollars to have it done, I can do it for $125 or less, Third is I just like to do thing myself that I can do. I have been quoted $33 per five gallons of methanol and that it needs to be 40% to guarantee against freezing. I can get WW fluid -20F for 1.64 a gallon or $99 a 55 gallon drum. If Wally world does not have the WW by Thursday I am getting the drum.

What slugging your barrels means is, to take a piece of lead (usually a ball but I have used bullets) and tap it thru the barrel. You then measure it and size or buy your bullets .001" over that size. .358 in a .357 barrel for example. You need to use a soft lead slug slightly larger than your barrel. I normally take a swaged lead bullet or a round ball, slightly swell it in a vise, lube it with bullet lube but any oil will do, place it in the chamber, then using a wood/aluminum/brass/etc dowel rod that is taped on both ends to close to barrel size, I tap it down the barrel.

I use a fill valve that you can buy at TSC and I pump with a drill pump. The fill valve has a air bleeder on it so as pressure builds you let the air pressure out. Once it is filled to right below the valve stem (with the valve at 12 O'clock) you inflate to normal pressure. One other method I have heard of is to take a wratcheting tie down, wrap it around the tire and squeeze the tire down, this forces the air out, take the hose from the fill valve and stick in in a bucket of WW fluid and undo strap. It will suck the fluid in. Of course you have to do this over and over....buy a drill pump.

We are getting there. Lose the specific case length gauges and pick up a digital or dial caliper. You need to be able to measure more than case length, such as bullet diameter, rims, case head expansion....lots of uses. You can get the Dillon dies, they are very good or you can pick up RCBS dies for $15 less or Lee dies for about half that. The 45acp and 308 take the same shell plate and buttons. Drop one of those, go ahead and pick up the 9mm or .223, just add a 308 Winchester drop tube and you can do both with what you have. I have a Dillon flip tray for primers and I like my cheap $3 MTM one better and use it most of the time. http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00008PF You can get the Dillon case lube but for the money, I prefer Hornady One Shot. Dillon's stuff is like the home made 99% Isopropyl alcohol and lanolin mix....kinda slimy. The tool heads and extra powder dies are a necessity so they are worth it. Add that up and see what you have.

Some of that stuff you are going to have to have whether you buy a Dillon or a Lee single stage. Like a powder scale and a manual. So take those out of the equation. BTW, somehow I have managed to reload 25 years without a digital scale, though I recently picked one up and they are handy but I don't trust it yet as it is finicky. Next, unless you are a commercial reloader you do not need to buy carbide RIFLE dies as you still have to lube them, they are for longevity (But always buy carbide pistol dies unless it is a bottle necked case). You can get basic scales cheap as well as dial calipers, you can do without a lot of that stuff. Use cheaper dies, they all work, add calibers one at a time. Eliminate all that case length stuff if you have calipers, eliminate the quick change stuff, it is easy to do without it, eliminate the spare parts as you can get replacement parts by mail very quickly, eliminate the extra pick up tubes unless you plan on loading 500+ rounds nonstop in one sitting, eliminate the extra caliber conversions with the same rims, 45acp/45 gap, 30/06, 308, etc. All you need is a different drop tube because they take the same shell plate and buttons. Now recalculate and it will look a lot better. One other thing, you can get cheap but decent digital or dial calipers at harbor freight. The Dillon stuff is Chinese also. You can get most reloading data online now, just look up IMR, Hogdon, Winchester, etc.

The reason you put liquid in rear tractor tires is for weight. The weight give you better traction and also helps act as a counter balance to my front loader when I am moving dirt/gravel. The other reason is balance, it does help lower the center of gravity since most of that weight is below the center line of the axle. So by adding 30 gallons of washer fluid to each of my rear tires I will be adding 240 lbs to each one for 480 lbs total. It has been done for years and years.

+1 for the G27. I have tried many, many different guns and I keep coming back. I added a belt clip and trigger block so I just stick it in my belt, no holster. Sometimes, if I am in jeans, I just put it in my back pocket. I have large hands with short fingers so the Sig 239 never appealed to me as the grip is too short. I have a P6/225 but only available in 9mm. I have had SW 4013tsw single stack, compact 1911's, CZ PO1, HP's, on and on. Hard to beat a G27.

Thanks, I live very close to them, I will give them a call. BTW, 2 to 1 sounds strong, what temp does that get you to?

To keep the water I put in tires from freezing. The standard solution is to get calcium chloride but you have to have tubes installed and it is very corrosive. It is a type of salt. Weighs 12 lbs a gallon. Ethylene glycol is too expensive. Windshield washer fluid works fine and is cheap enough but you have to pump in the whole 60+ gallons. I have a hose adapter, if I can get the methanol cheap, I can just fill them up with a hose pipe after adding a much smaller amount of methanol. I will check Cone solvents but most places I have called have it in 55 gallon drums. I do not eed that much.

Where can I get methanol around Nashville? I need to fill some tractor tires.

How is a Dillon 550B with 4 calibers $1300?? The 550 is $406, the conversion kits are 41.95, you can use anybodies dies. I have a lot of RCBS and lee myself. BTW, it comes with one caliber kit. So that is about $532 so far. Lee carbide pistol dies are about $30 and RCBS are about $45. Anyways, I have had my 550 since 1984. I just recently sent it back to dillon for a overhaul. Completely rebuilt with all the upgrades for 44.95. During the last 25 years is I had a problem I just called and they usually mailed me a new part, no questions. My advice, get the Dillon

I usually try to keep my lead loads down below 900. If I am shooting bullets I have cast myself out of harder alloys or heat treated, a different subject, I have pushed them way up there. But for the sake of this discussion let us assume store bought cast bullets. One thing to keep in mind with lead bullets is heavier is usually better. Your not going to get expansion out of a hard cast bullet and heavier is slower with high energy and better penetration. So with 9mm I try to use 147's so 900 fps is about max anyways. 38's about 850 with cast or 750 with swaged lead. 45's use 200 grainers to 900 and 230's to 850. 45 colts work well with the 250's and the 44 special/mags with 240/250's to 900 fps. Don't confuse swaged lead with cast. The lead put out by Hornady and Speer are swaged lead, meaning that it is really soft lead wire that has been squeezed into shape and weight. Very consistent for low velocity loads but really soft.

I missed the start so I am DVR'ing the replay at 3am.

The biggest advantage of hard cast is lower cost and they can be as accurate as jacketed if they are cast well. You can shoot a lot more due to the lower cost. If you cast your own then you can really lower your cost. Some of the disadvantages are that they can leave lead deposits in the barrel(usually not at lower velocities), they can dirty your gun up and are smokier due to the lube, if you shoot on indoor ranges you must have adequate ventilation due to lead particles. The advantage of jacketed is usually better consistency between bullets, they usually leave the gun and barrel cleaner, you can push them to higher velocities without worrying about fouling your barrel. One other option is copper coated bullets from companies like Ranier or Berry's. They cost less than jacketed but shoot very similar to jacketed as they have a thin copper coating on them. Only diadvantage is you have to keep your velocities down so no magnum loads. Last thought, you should not shoot lead in guns with polygonal rifling such as Glock and HK. Builds up pressures and that type of rifling does not grip lead well....I know it has been done but it is not recommended.

What you need to do is slug both of your barrels. the specs on a 9mm barrel would be .355 and 38/357 is .357. As a rule you would want to size your bullets .001 over your groove diameter, hence .356 for a 9mm and .358 for a 38/357. If your barrel is different you need to size them appropriately. As to shooting moly coated bullets, I have and I don't think they are cost effective. I would rather shoot copper coated for the money. And I have shot .357 lead bullets in a 9mm but not .358 but as a rule, I stick to the proper sizing for each caliber or gun.

Have you tried flaring the mouths a little more? If any part of the case mouth is under the bullet base you will not only get some buckling but you will damage the bullet. I doubt it is the crimp unless the cases are stretched on one side only and I doubt that in a 9mm.

Which part of the cycle does this happen on? Case sizing, neck expansion, bullet seating or crimping?