glockster157

The older Lyman manuals I have list a max of 5.3 grains with a 124 grain bullet. Hornady lists 5.1 grains with the 124 and Speer lists 4.5 with there swaged lead bullet. If you are looking to match your jacketed bullet loads, I would not be a afraid to use the same charge behind a lead bullet. I have found that most loading manuals list lighter loads for lead bullets to keep velocities down to curb leading. If you use a properly cast lead bullet there is no reason not to load the same load. Get a chronograph to check velocities and use a good bullet.

Best advice I can give is split them up. You are detracting from the value of both. If the scope is a $200 scope then you should be able to sell it separately from the rifle. I have found it is easier to get $150 out of one person and $350 out of another instead of $500 out of one for a whole package. The guy that likes the scope may not want that rifle and vice versa.

I have used all the fast burners for the 9 and 45 with some success though I have settled on Winchester 231/Hogdon HP38 in the last 10 years for standard service loads. I use Blue Dot, AA 7 or Unique for hot loads to push velocities up.

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I'm so bored

Bolt guns are great and I think autos are to ammo hungry. I personally like the lever guns for a good compromise between speed and deliberate aimed shooting. You have the larger capacity of the autos but you still have to work the lever between shots...lots of fun too. I have 3 CZ452's and a Marlin 925 but when I get bored with grouping and want to really plink I break out the Marlin 39 or I used to have a Browning BL22 also.

You guys are killing me, I love SW revolvers. I doubt I will ever get a chance to own a museum piece like these but maybe, just maybe, I will run into one someday. My hats off to you for sharing the pics:hat:

Berry's has some 135 grain .356 plated bullets on close out for $72 a K shipped. I order some of those. That should hold me on the 9mm, now to find the 40's.

I reload and I hate to lose brass. If you don't reload it won't matter, save me your brass btw , but I also think the 610 is the gun to have if you want to shoot a lot, have great accuracy and shoot 40 or 10. You might be able to pull it off with a Glock 20/29 if the extractor is tight.

I went by there Saturday, they were pretty much out of everything. They did have some ball in 115 I think but they were not cutting the price at all for a bulk buy. I want to look at wholesale if I buy bulk.

Anybody seen a deal on jacketed or plated 9mm, 38 or 40 caliber bullets lately? I am about to run out, going to crank up the casting this fall but I am still in construction on my basement/gun area.

You know what they say "Beauty is only skin deep but ugly is to the BONE"

Expect to pay a lot more for a 788, like $650, than you will for a good used M700, $425-525, sometimes even less. A friend of mine just picked up a nice M700 in 260 w/detachable mag for 347 out the door.

Rock Chucker for the precision stuff or really big stuff and a Dillon 550 for everything else.

An early model Charles Daly loaded 1911. There wasn't a round I tried that made it from the magazine to the chamber. But it sure looked good.

There are 2 loads listed that top 1000fps, one using Blue Dot and one using Long Shot. I did not look at AA. So I was going to say no until I saw those, though I personally never trusted Blue Dot and I have never used Long Shot. I think it would be safe to say most shorter barreled pistols will stay down to 950 anyways.

The best advise I can give in this day is to get a chronograph, if I had one thirty years ago I would, and could, have avoided some mistakes and made better loads much quicker. I say that because being younger, I was always pushing for more velocity. Never made any major mistakes but I am sure I pushed the limits beyond safe many times. One other thing about having a chronograph, I do not care what the loading manuals say, you pretty much have to use velocity and pressure signs to build decent loads. The new books are giving the same velocities with 1-2 grains less powder and when I chrono them the velocity is way off. So are the pressure signs. Somebody is lying and playing it too safe. The next point is related. Study and learn to read pressure signs. Like those loads I just mentioned. Velocity was off by a 150fps and the mouth of the cases were badly blackened, indicating the case did not have enough pressure to seal. Last note, I have used a Oehler 33, Chrony Beta Master and now a Competition Electronics ProChrono and the $100 ProChrono is the absolute simplest, best I have used. Simple and fast with virtually no setup. I highly recommend it.

Try guns and leather in greenbrier tn

As you increase your powder charge incrementally you will see signs as pressure increases. Once you have enough pressure to seal the chamber any blackening around the mouth or neck of the case usually stops or diminishes greatly. Then the primer starts to flatten out as pressures rise. If you have a chronograph and are getting good velocity this is a good place to stop. The next stage is cratering, the firing pin strike will kinda pucker as the primer flows back into the firing pin hole. You can get this prematurely if your firing pin hole is large or oversized. You can tell by looking at the edges of the primer. If the edge is still rounded and not flattened the cratering is not from pressure. The next stage after the primer is completely flattened and cratered is brass flow. You will see shiny spots or marks where the brass was sheared because the pressure caused it to flow into crevices or wherever it could. You also get a lot of case stretching, possible head separation at the web, the Glock Kaboom in pistols. This is a bad place to be. The next stage is when the primer starts to leak gas around the edged or the primer strike is pierced and gas blows back your direction, a blown primer. You never have to go that far before you need to back off IMHO. But that is just me. I will stand back and watch you guys....

All I can say is WOW! You only blew two primers....that is about two primers too many for me. Your a brave soul Froggy.

Went by earlier, they had a stack of 40sw in 50rd boxes and a couple of the 100 round boxes. Had lots of the Federal 22lr 550 round boxes. the 22's were 15.47. I forgot what the 40's were but I think 15 a box or so.

One other thing to look for in SW's is buggered screw heads and "push off". Cock the hammer and gently push it forward with your thumb, don't exert a lot of force but a decent push, if it jumps the sear and goes down somebody has tried to slick up the action and rounded the sear. I have seen this a lot on SW's, too many shade tree gunsmiths. Not hard to fix if you know what to do but if you can push the hammer off, what else has been messed with? I agree with the $450 price especially if it has rubber grips and is missing the wood w/o box. And that would be max for me.

Use some non-chlorinated brake cleaner on it. I use the Wally World stuff. Should clean it all out. It would help to strip it down, pretty easy, only takes a pin punch. I use the graphite based anti seize lube on a lot of things but if it gets loose it makes a real mess.

Know what you mean. I started with a Marlin 39A, then a Browning, have gone thru several other Marlins and Brownings, still have the 22 but also a Marlin 45-70 and a 357. Need to pick up another 30-30 just to have and maybe another 44.

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