glockster157

I have seen several articles on polishing the trigger parts on the SBH's in G&A over the years. I will see if I can dig them up. As to fanning the action, it is not recommended on a standard gun without proper mods. Lightening the trigger with a spring kit is fairly simple and easily reversible. I would start with a Wolf spring kit.

I have been loading for Glocks for years. There are folks out there running reloads by the thousands thru Glocks without issues. I don't reload the 357 Sig because I did not want to mess with the little bottlenecked case but 9mm, 40 and 45 I have shot plenty. As to using new brass, that to is wrong. If you build "sane" loads and don't try to set a new speed record by overloading the cases causing excessive pressure, I have not had a problem. That being said, just get a Lone Wolf barrel that is fully supported and that you can shoot lead bullets in and have at it.

I agree with the group here. I have owned cheap AK's and nice ones. Just traded off a Arsenal Tactical. I really like being able to hit what I am aiming at, where I am aiming. A really high end AK is like having a fancy dog house. May be nice but kind of unnecessary. If you want 30 caliber power, save up for a M1A. If you want to economize keep the AR and just get a cheaper AK. I have never tried the 6.8 or the 6.5 but until they take off more in popularity I don't want to invest a lot of money in them. Now the 458 SOCOM is something I may have to play with someday but that is because of a personal interest in big bores but that is a different subject. One other caveat, accessories don't add a lot of value in trades or private sales. It is never easy to recover money spent on aftermarket accessories so keep anything that you will or can use on the AR platform so you would not have to repurchase if you trade your AR off....you will be back.

So it was Sigmas he was asking about. I have had 3 Sigmas and all 3 were 100% reliable out of the box. The first one I tried the internet fixes and if you leave the striker spring alone they stayed reliable. However, when I tried to shoot the one with the springs removed(not the pigtail but the large trigger spring) the trigger return was too slow so I had to put it back. Polishing helped but voids that lifetime warranty. I tried lighter striker springs and got misfires. My suggestion, if you need a quality gun that is 100% reliable and has a lifetime warranty, cost less than 300 new get a Sigma but leave it alone and learn to shoot it as-is with the stiff trigger.

If you are talking about the poorly finished guns like the 457 vs 4513, the 908 vs 3914, the 910/915 vs 5904 then the answer is not really. I do believe the value series may have had plastic guide rods but I really don't remember. But they are well built guns and they shoot about as well as the high end guns.

One other bit of experience on scales as I have been reloading since 1981. You will be tempted to get a electronic scale. I have tried several and they are ok but I have found them finicky. Nice to have to to quick checks of bullet weights and such but a good beam scale is absolutely invaluable. I would recommend the RCBS 5-0-5 and if you can afford it the RCBS 10-10. I have used my 10-10 since 1987 and it is still dead on accurate and I have not had to buy the first battery for it.

I would recommend you try the .66 setting on your powder measure. 6.0 grains of Unique with a 115 JHP as this is well within most loading manual maximums and in my experience they are already pretty conservative. The Alliant web page shows 6.3 grains as max which still leaves you a bit of room for error. Keep your overall length as long as your magazine and chamber will allow as this increases case capacity and lowers pressure also. One other thing, when you can afford it, get a low priced chronograph to measure velocity. I did not do it for years as they used to be expensive and I never really knew what my loads were doing. Now a good chrono can be had for a 100 bucks and it really makes a difference. You will also discover a lot of loading manuals are exaggerating velocities.

What is your powder type, caliber and bullet weight? Sounds like since you loaded light your not developing enough pressure. If the pressures are low, the cases will usually have a lot of blackening as the gas comes back around the case, the cases are not thrown very far as they are ejected(compared to factory ammo) and primers are completely rounded on the outside shoulders as very little back thrust was created.

The OAL listed in most reloading manuals is based on the SAAMI specs and have more to do with cylinder or mag length. Seating a bullet 20 thousandths of an inch deeper is not going to make a huge pressure difference. Now if you were to seat past the first driving band you would want to be careful. If you want Cowboy action loads don't go full power WW 231 or HP38. Use something like Trail Boss or just back off a little on those faster powders.

I chuck the Lee cutter and trimmer pilot in a drill press and just hold the shell holder in my hand. It is easier to do the cases this way. I am going to try to make a quick case holder out of a older Lee hand primer so I can just stick in the case, hold it with my thumb and hit the trimmer.

For a house or car gun a 4" 357 like a SW K/L/N frame or Ruger Security Six/GP100 is great. but when you say in the pocket you have to shrink down to the 5 shot J frame size. They are available from SW, Taurus, Rossi, Charter and others. They do make 2.5" round butt, 6 shot K/L frames. More expensive and heavy but might make a good compromise.

If I am not mistaken it only takes 10 round single stack mags. If you open the mag well to take regular AK mags it would have to have a lot of the parts replaced with American made parts to be legal. At least that is my understanding.

Definitely a sporter model, no bayonet lug, flat top, no front sight, probably has a 11 degree target crown like a lot of the varmint barrels. Flash suppressors can reduce accuracy so they are not desirable on a sporting rifle.

Looking at Ameriglo's website these two jumped out at me. Kinda what I had in mind. Ghost Ring with Tritium inserts These were called U-RAP with the inserts also I don't know but they look fast??

I agree on the baby Glocks. I have a 27 and a 9mm conversion barrel for it, BTW I have that like new barrel listed in the gear section(shameless plug here) as I need a cut rifled barrel for the G34 and I don't need a 9mm barrel for the 27. One other thing CK1, what about a peep sight/ghost ring type rear sight? Seems like it would be quicker. Do any of the competitors shoot lead in the Glock barrel? Please no lead lectures, I have read a buzzillion posts on the Glock lead issue. I have shot lead in polygonal barrels, Glock and HK, before I knew you shouldn't without a problem. Maybe I am lucky or it could be I actually clean my barrels.

Thank you, makes sense. I do like the lighter trigger as I don't plan on using this gun in a defensive role. Has anybody tried the Glock adjustable sights? This has a decent set of Meprolights on it. I will probably transfer them to a 19 I am planning to acquire and put standard one on the 34...might as well put a decent target sight on it.

I have been on the dark side for years, hence the handle Glockster157. But it has been G23's-19's-30's-33's, stuff you carry. I don't think I have ever owned a G17 though I did have a 22 for spell. Didn't like it...so I never thought I would like a G34. I had a Sig P226 I traded for to shoot my lead 9mm loads, hated it. Each to his own but I thought it was way to bulky for a 15 shot 9mm. A 228 might have been more down my alley but not now, I have found my 9mm. Gotta get a cut rifled barrel for the lead but that's ok. Does anyone know if the G34 came with the ported barrel as the slide is cut out at the top but the barrel is not ported. That is fine with me as I am going with a lot of lead anyways but I wouldn't mind trading the stock barrel for a ported one.

Well, I should say I could have had a G34 all this time . I just bought one this last weekend and I am loving it. I know, with a handle like glockster you would think I would have already had one or shot one but no, I had not. I have had about everything else. The longer barrel never appealed to me before. All I can say, try one some time. You may be surprised, I was.

Try this website for Unique Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide Try about 5.6 grains and work up

From what I have read compared to what I have tested the best out there is the Winchester ranger +P+ 127 Ranger load. I chronographed those from my Glock at 1227fps at 10'. Not bad for 9mm. I agree the 147's are too slow for expansion. There may be some exceptions. This newer Federal FMJ expanding ball looks interesting to me. It looks like it flattens nicely on impact but I am unsure of penetration. I still have a lot of the Winchester for now. I also agree with the Corbon velocity argument. I would rather depend on velocity for energy and penetration than bullet construction alone for performance i.e. Hydroshocks.

I have kinda took over half the basement. I plan to add some ventilation and move the bullet casting operation here from the shop. then it will truly be a one all inclusive operation. the supply cabinet The brass shelf

I use a dollar bill. I start at the top and slide it down the barrel to see where the contact points are. The sandpaper wrapped dowel should be fine to take out the high spots. No need to over do it. Make sure before you start that there is equal spacing down each side of the barrel channel looking down from the top. If it is to one side or the other it is more difficult because you have to get up to the very top of the channel into the finished area. Once you have it down and you can slide a piece of paper all the way to the receiver, use something like true oil or polyurethane to reseal the wood. If not it can absorb moisture and swell. I would recommend Brownells Accuglass kit to glass the action if you want to really tighten it up. Also, drag a cotton ball across the barrel crown to check for burrs and look close to make sure that the crown is clean and even. Good Luck.

OK, Number 5 there in your picture looks pretty good. Numbers 1-3 are way overcrimped. As to the scale get the primer tray out from under the it and screw the level screw out about halfway. Set all the beam settings to 0. If you are not in the ball park of 0 here, you probably have the wrong pan or pan holder on that scale(too heavy or light). There is no reason that good looking RCBS 5-0-5 can't zero on a level table.

This is a deburring/chamfer tool. I just sized and trimmed 120 30/06 cases. Left a good burr on the inside and outside of the case mouth. This tool cuts them both off. The first time you load factory cases they need to be chamfered on the inside only if they don't need to be trimmed. Watch those case lengths on bottle necked rifles. I never trim my auto brass and since straight walled cases have to be flared I usually don't worry about chamfering them either.

Here are this pics