glockster157

I am glad you have had good service out Lyman. I recently came into a like new RCBS Pro-Melt Furnace and I must say it it is a lot better than the Lyman Furnace I was using. Granted, the Lyman pot is 25 years old now. I also came into several RCBS molds and they too seem to be built better than the older Lyman molds I have had. I got the Lyman mold I shipped them for repair back today, Not repaired of course. I took the sprue plate off and looked at the bullet bases with the mold halves together and they are quite noticeably oblong, by about 6-7 thousandths of an inch. They currently measure .259 x .264. tapering out to the first grease groove to about .284. I am going to take a 9/32's reamer and lock the mold up in a drill press vise and ream the bases round and up to .2815" about .145" deep. That should take care of it and fix the gas check problem also.

Last test I saw they loaded it up to 1000 fps. It actually pushed the base thru the expanded lead ring so they slowed it down to about 900 fps. They were getting .750 expansion. It is no surprise that they did not get much out of 780 fps. That is about wadcutters normal speed. Sped up it did work better but it was easy to tip and tumble if it was not point blank and I said it was a novelty load...for its day. Probably best to use some newer stuff. As to the newer loads, I am a believer in size and velocity over expansion. I don't care how well made a bullet is, if you plug the nose with cloth, leather, wool, etc, it has become a solid. I used to carry 125 Corbons in my 38's but I have been using the soft Federal lead HP's as of late.

I am not going to get into the "reloads or not" argument, each to his own nut for some wicked manstoppers, load some Hornady Hollow based wadcutters upside down. Soft lead, kinda like a giant hollow point. Use normal 38 spl load data up to about 900 fps. Now days this is a novelty load for shooting water jugs but in the old days it was a self defense load. Too bad we can't use them anymore.

I told you you can come over the house any time and I could show you. See me at church Sunday,

As I stated, I got it out. But I almost bought a set of left hand drills at Northern Tool but they wanted 28 bucks and they were made in China. I do want to get some left hand drill bits, good ones, but I want to be able to order just the ones I want. I would rarely need the larger drills, just the smaller ones.

Actually not a bad idea but I got it out. Center punched it, drilled it with a 5/64th bit, got my #1 ease out into it enough to move it a little. I was then able to get a hold of it with my mini vise grips. Didn't do any damage so it is OK. Now, I have to find a 6-48 bottom tap to clean this hole up. I think I have a friend who has one. As to cutting it off, I bought this to use as a light weight walk around gun. A 20" barrel might be handy. I had a Model Seven with a 18.5" barrel but it got away a while back. I'm not going to cut it right now but maybe later. Thanks for the help guys.

It has been mentioned but I do not know if it has been done before, if anyone would like to participate in a reloading class, I would be glad to help. I have been loading since 1981, casting on and off since then also. I may not have seen it all but I dang sure have seen a lot of it. Anyways, if someone has a place to meet I am sure we could start by giving a basic tutorial on how to's, equipment needed for the different types (such as pistol vs AR vs precision rifle) not all equipment is the same, some pitfalls, safe guards, etc. We can also cover components such as powder types and their uses, bullets, primer, brass etc. Could be fun and could be boken up by region. So east TN guys jump in, I am in middle TN, west TN jump in also.

Oh, I'll get it out. Some of my brothers and best friends are tool and die guys. I'll get it out. I was just hoping for some clarity and maybe a idea. I will try to punch it out again in the morning when I am not PO'ed about it.

I was trying to unscrew it to get it out. It seems to just want to bend or flatten on that corner. I tapped it several more times but it did not move or break off. If it broke it would make it easier to drill.

Yep, tried the punch, so far no movement. I hope it would knock the other half the head off but not so far. I was getting frustrated so I stopped and decided to take it up again tomorrow.

I have not been able to so far. It is very short.

I was putting some filler screws in the muzzle of my Rem 700 after taking the front sight off. First on went in fine. The second one stuck half in and half out. I tried to get it out but half the head broke off. I drilled out scope base screws but not this small. I think these are 6-40 or 6-48 plug screws. Best way out of this before I try to drill?

just go to Harbor Freight ans get some small straight punches and voila, Glock take down tools and magazine take down tool and nice drift punches.

I have been trying to use Lyman products for 30 years. My problem is I always wind up using someone elses products instead because they perform better. I started 30 years ago on a Spar-t kit. The powder measure was always hard to adjust and keep in adjustment, I think it was a model 55, so I bought a RCBS Uniflow and have been using it ever since. I bought a RCBS Rockchucker to replace the weak spar-t. I did buy a Orange Crush Lyman O frame press and the ram was drilled off center. I sent it back my dime and they sent it back to me as-is without replacing it even though I explained to the tech exactly what was wrong. Wound up eating that one. I had one of their scales and it was OK but I picjed up a RCBS/Ohaus 10-10 about 25 years ago and I have been using ever since. I tried there dies but they never worked as well as RCBS-Hornady-Dillon or even Lee so I never use them. I recently bought a set of Lyman roll pin punches and the 1/8th punch was missing the tip. I also recently came into a like new mold in the box but it was grossly undersized at the base and I cannot keep gas checks on it. They wanted 45 bucks to fix their mistake. I told them to just mail it back, I'll fix it myself. I write this to say to you new guys, I see writing on the wall. Stick with RCBS-Hornady-Dillon-Lee or buy Lyman stuff used and cheap. It works but you will find the others work a lot better. One thing I do recommend is their loading manuals. At least they work.

If I find a set of the thin factory panels you can have the Hogues. Westwind mike is holding me a reloading manual. Let me see if he sold those grip panels yet. He has SPF on them right now. I'll let you know.

Anybody see any Beretta 92 grip panels let me know. I picked up a 92D Centurion this weekend but it has Hogue wrap-arounds on it. I have short fingers so I prefer the thin factory grips.

I went with the chrome lined 11.5". I have not had any malfunctions yet.

I had the same opinion for years. I had several 14" Contenders back in the 80's as well as a couple of XP100's. They were unwieldy as pistols or rifles. So, I never even considered a AR pistol. I finally got one just for financial investment as we all know Obama is going to get to guns as he is going thru the liberal agenda one by one. Much to my surprise the little thing will shoot. I passed on the 7.5" on the advise from Gary at J&T and went with the longer barrel. With normal sights and the buffer tube on my cheek, it shoots just like a little rifle. It is loud, that is why I wear ear plugs and defenders, always have as my 44 mags, 223's, 357's, 30-06's, etc, are loud also. I was wrong about these rifles/pistols. As was stated, they are fun, more fun than I have had in a while. One other thing, I chronographed several of my loads and some Malaysian military, the pistol was consistently 200fps slower than my 16" AR. With the factory Malaysian I was at 3000fps and with the pistol I was at 2800fps. Not bad for such a small controllable weapon. BTW, the functioning issues with these pistols are much more common in the 7.5" guns than the longer barrels.

I spoke with the guys from Top Gun at the last R&K show. Nice guys and my buddy bought a DS lower from them at a really good price. Problem is that they were $70 bucks or so higher on the rifle kit. J&T doesn't sell DS lowers just kits so we got the kit from Gary. To answer the question is it cheaper to build, the answer is yes. Now, if you want a name like Bushmaster or Colt I doubt you could build but I do Doublestar because of J&T. Buy the DS lower and then the rifle kit of choice and put said lower together, you have a completely matched DS rifle. Price is usually at least $100 cheaper but from some retail prices I have seen dealers ask it is about $200-250 cheaper.

I have built out about 10 AR's so far between my own and friends/family. I have bought most of my parts from J&T Distributing. One big advantage is J&T comes to the Nashville gun show a lot and this is where I picked up a lot of kits. I am not sure what you are missing but Gary or Wes will be able to help you, no problem. They are going to be at the Nashville fair grounds this weekend. If I can answer any question for you, pm me and I will get you my cell.

It could be the mag spring so were you able to duplicate the problem? Or was it a one time thing. Of course since it happened on the same day on 2 different Glocks it could be a conspiracy or could be a loose screw on the triggers....

My favorite has always been the Lyman manuals, I have the 46th, 48th and Cast bullet manuals. There are tons of websites also on reloading. For data you can do Accurate Arms Company, Inc. Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide IMR - Legendary Powders IMR-Hogdon-Winchester all go to the same site Handloads.Com Load Data - Handloads.Com Just a few

I have never been able to shoot groups of that type with a auto, 1911 or other at 25 yards. That said, I have had revolvers that could group really well. I have had 3 screw Super Blackhawks that could put up 1" 25 yard 5 shot groups. Now I said the gun could do it, not me. I had to be on sand bags and my eyes were a lot better in the 80's. BTW, that was with hand cast (and weighed) 250 grain Keith SWC's over 21 grains of 2400 with standard primers. Just in case someone wanted to know the load. A good friend of mine still has one of the revolvers. I may have to try that again just to see if I can still do it.

I do agree with the "even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" statement. I found a nice little Colt a while back. I still peruse the pages regularly. I laugh but I peruse all the same. Some things are better left unsaid I guess. I do go to the shows a lot. I had a guy walk by me with a Norinco AK last show. I asked him how much?...He says $1600, to which I reply "I didn't know Norinco made any gold plated AK's". Now, I know I shouldn't have said that. But I lack filters and sometimes it comes out before I can stop it. BTW, I go to the shows a lot now as I have a lot of friends out there and I just enjoy hanging out there. I get some good deals occasionally. But sometimes I will spend a whole day sitting with some guys just BS-ing just having fun.

I watch prices constantly to stay on top of things as I have the bug. Always wanting to try something different. I get a kick out of that new sales sight, mainly in east TN, called Gun Owners Club. If some of you guys are on there regularly I don't mean to be offensive but these guys need to get a clue. They put these guns up at new prices, some even higher and throw out the old "if you had to pay tax-TICS-accessories" argument. I don't post anything over there, I just laugh. Those guys have every right to ask any price they want, to think any thing they want. I just get amazed at the prices they ask. I feel sorry for some as you can tell they got nailed by some dealer. But it is not our job to bail them out. If I decide to sell something I try to be reasonable to market value and be fair about it. Most of you guys that have dealt with me know that. I may push a little but I don't try to play dealer. I called one guy in Cookeville about a rifle, I thought I had got Joe's Used Car lot...he fast talked me, tried to rip me a knew one, again, I just laughed and moved on, as they say Caveat Emptor. Just wanted to share and warn a little, if you have not dealt with some of these guys beware, it is not TGO. Have a great day and be Blessed.