glockster157

I also lucked into a like new H&R 999 in absolutely perfect condition. It is a lot of fun to shoot. I have no plans to part with mine anytime soon. Watch that rear sight and make sure both screws stay tight. They are bad about coming loose and loosing the blade sight. mine fell out on me the first time I took it out shooting but I was able to find it.

Moped, there is a thread started on this subject so I will end this Remington 700 point with this, when I buy a new or used gun, I check it out completely. I test triggers and actions. If I find something wrong I fix it or have it fixed. But I say again, I have never had nor have I seen, heard, met or know anyone that has had this problem. Remington 700's will remain at the top of my personal list. If I ever have this problem, my muzzle will be pointed down range and nothing bad will happen. Then I will fix it.

OK, I changed my email to my Gmail accnt. I will see how that works.

I have been shooting Remington 700's since 1982 and I have never had a failure of any type. I am not convinced these reports are real. I have worked on a lot of Remington triggers also and I have not had one go off accidentally either, even though I have set some pretty light. As too a 300 Win Mag, maybe but that is a little more recoil and cost than necessary. I would still recommend a 30-06 followed by the 270 then the 308. At least for a primary deer rifle that could be used for varmints or just plinking. A 7mag would be a better choice for most in the belted magnums but it is going to add cost without much benefit especially of you are not in a place where long shots are the norm.

I have not been receiving any PM notifications or thread subscription notices either but I have everything enabled?

My advise on the lead bullets is give them a light coat of Lee Liquid Alox that is cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. If you had a gas check version I wouldn't worry about it. I have had great results with Accurate 5744. I still have 4 pounds of SR4759 and I have had good service with that also. But for my lead loads I believe MP5744 is going to be my #1 powder. Wow, you have a #1 in 458....I want one of those also. If you get tired of it let me know, maybe we can do something. The Noslers I bought were the BTSP also. I agree with you on the performance of those bullets. But since I pulled a bunch of those spire points I thought I would use them for load development. They were in fine shape except the noses were a little crunches. I use a Hornady comparator now for all my rifles so even if the noses are damaged I can getg an exact seating depth of any particular bullet. That helps a lot. beats the old squeeze the neck and smoke the bullet technique. One last thing, I did load a few with 300 grain round nose with 25 grains of trail boss. Got about 1200 fps and they were really mild. I think I am going to do some of those with some store bought 300-335 grain 38-55 plain base bullets just for kicks.

Thanks Leroy, that is good advice. I have had many of those experiences. I had no idea where to start with this rifle and I have to admit that I was a little afraid of it at first. I am a little on the chintzy side so i had a pound of Accurate A4350 I had not tried and so I used their data to work up a load using the pulled (what looked like Hornady) 270 grain spire point bullets. Not really accuracy testing, just making sure it was hitting minute of deer and watching pressures. Went to the max of 84 grains, no pressure signs, was using a MTM long drop tube and that was all I could get into the case. I tried seating the bullet out about .030 off the rifling and seating to the cannelure, didn't seem to make a difference. Read 2760 at 10 ft from the muzzle on the chrono with only a 20fps ES and 7 SD. I had also bought a box of Nosler 260's and backed off 2 grains to 82 grains and it got me a load just as consistent and goes 2720. I got her zeroed with a 3.5-10 Leupold VX-3 AO for now(got to find a smaller scope after I finish the load development) and am heading to the range soon for more testing. I may try WW760 as I have a lot of it and see how it performs. I want to take the time to get some more of the RCBS 37-250's cast and loaded first. I am planning on ording a Lyman 375449 264 GC bullet mold from Midway also. I will update after the next shooting session.

I'm curious as to why you are limiting yourself to the 308? Don't get me wrong, I have had many 308's,have two now and I have reloaded that round since 1983. But from 0 to 200 there is really not much "real world" performance difference in most of the major factory loaded hunting rounds. I would not turn down a deal in 06, 260, 270, 280, 7mm-08, 7 mag, etc. If you want to shoot mil surplus I would still consider the 06 over the 308 because you van still find it surplus plus you have a much broader range of factory loaded bullet weights to choose from and if you walk into any store in the country that sells ammo they are likely to have 30-06 or 270 on the shelf. As to using paste wax on rifles as a preservative I have never tried it but I have used Rig Gun Grease for 30+ years and never had a speck of rust. Learned that from an old guy that had been using it 50 years and he was right. Howa's are good actions and are used on the Weatherby Vanguards. I believe they were the basis of the old S&W rifles as well as several others. The only thing I have against them is the triggers are non adjustable and usually pretty stiff. Love the Savage Accu-trigger on my 12BVSS and I have heard a lot of good things about the Marlin trigger. I love the Remington 700's. I have rarely found one I couldn't get to shoot. Not so fond of the MKII Rugers, or Winchesters. But of the entry level rifles it is hard to beat a Savage.

No luck on the sight problem, both fronts are .275 from the base. Oh, well, back to the drawing board.

I had a #1 in 45-70 and it was the most painful rifle to shoot, can't speak about a 338. I still wish I had kept it. If I get another I will put a Limbsaver on it and fill the butt stock full of lead or something. thanks Leroy, I will. Right now the only thing in danger from this 375 is my wallet, my shoulder and a mean old mean, nasty B29 silhouette....BTW, what is the old Lyman accuracy load? Are you talking about the loads in the Lyman manual? I have the 46th and 48th.

I have had many Mini-14's and they are very good rifles. Advantages are reliability, it is a Garand type action as stated like a M1 or M14, all steel construction and it is simple to operate. I like the safety inside the trigger guard also. However, there are a lot of downsides to the system which is why I used to own mini-14's. They are not very accurate nor do they lend themselves to being accurized easily. I always called mine "minute of man" to 250 yards. Good quality mags are much more expensive than AR mags. The only ones I really trust are the factory mags but I have had some luck with aftermarket. Lastly, you are locked into the barrel and caliber as the rifle is not modular like an AR. No swapping uppers from shorty's to HBB Varmints. No drop in match triggers, etc. Unless I get one cheap to play with, I don't plan on getting another one.

Great Idea on the FS, hadn't thought of that. As to the Holosight, I am just using it to test the mount. So far I think it works great without the recommended epoxy bedding that XS recommends. I plan to replace the Holosight with a real compact scout scope as soon as I can. I guess this makes me a high tech redneck according to a friend I shot with the other day.

I picked up this model 94 Winchester to shoot lead bullets but I wanted a scope mounted center line. I had this XS scout mount and a Bushnell Holosight so I thought I would give it a try. It shoots remarkably well. I also have a 375 Winchester XTR Big Bore and I am trying a Williams receiver sight but I am really having to crank it up in the air to get on target. I could not get the factory sight on at 100 yards so I am thinking the front sight needs to be lower. I have not been able to find a factory style one that is shorter. The fire sights come in different heights, I may have to go to one of those.

Shooting it is a blast...literally. I received about a 150 reloads of all types with the rifle but I will not shoot others reloads unless I know them really well and I had no idea from where these came. So I pulled all the bullets, resized-trimmed and polished the brass then I found a set of dies at the Reloaders Bench. My first loads I worked up to 84 grains(MAX) with Accurate 4350 and 270 grain spire points. At that level it was a little uncomfortable. They measured 2760fps 10ft from the muzzle. I bought a box of Nosler 260 grain Accubonds and backed the load down to 82 grains for 2720fps, still stout but quite bearable. I also made a bunch of loads with the pulled bullets using SR4759 at 2200fps with the 270 and 300 grainers. Those shot well and were fun. Last I used the remaining 270 grain RCBS 37-250-FN bullets I cast for my 375 Winchester. Loaded to 1800fps these are downright fun. Bad thing is now I have used up all the cast bullets I have to go back to work to shoot some more.

I have been getting into big bores lately with cast bullets so when a friend of mine wanted me to trade for this CZ 550 Safari Magnum in 375 H&H I couldn't resist. Full power loads sting a bit, mid range loads are more fun and the few cast loads I have tried are a blast. Bullets and brass are pricey for this one. Anybody have any components they might want to trade. Got a bunch of brass with it but I could use a little more plus bullets?

Spend the bucks and get a chronograph. I loaded for years and years without one. Once I started shooting loads over the chrono it was eye opening. The loads I had gotten from magazines that had been thoroughly tested were about right but the loads I got from modern loading manuals were usually way under pressured and velocities were no where near published data. Older manuals, which I have many, were a lot closer to reality. But a lot of the older manuals do not have the newer powders or cartridges listed so....get a chronograph. The digital concepts pro chrono is a good one for a $100 bucks.

I used to get them a lot when I was in the Air Force. Reloaded a ton of them and they work fine, just know that the primer pockets are crimped. Pain in the rear for 38 special.

Power Pistol seems to be the velocity champ...that being said i am an old school guy from way back and I still believe in the classics. I will never be without Bullseye and Unique for good service loads, especially for the 45ACP. My all time favorite(you have already discovered) is WW231/HP38. Same powder, different jug. Best all around powder I have ever used...so far, for the 9mm, 38, 45ACP. I have a closet full of powders, the list is too long to write, and they all have their champions and detractors. I have found it best to pick one or two powders for each purpose and stick with them. It is too expensive and time consuming to try them all. You have began your reloading career with a good. one.

I am casting the RCBS 37-250-FN and the Lyman 375296 for a 1980 Winchester model 94 BB XTR in 375 Winchester. The problem I am having is that neither bullet is feeding into the chamber but the flat noses of the bullets hit right at the bottom of the chamber mouth. The mouth of the chamber is very square, one friend suggested that I throat it like a 1911, but I am not crazy about that idea. The other solution is to get the tray to raise the cartridge higher. Does anyone know about this or have a fix for this problem? I really want these bullets to work in this rifle.

Trust me, a good stiff load of 748, H335, BLC2, H322, AA223 (most any of the medium burning ball powders) with a good bullet, in a decent case, loaded uniformly will shoot fine for a service/plinking load. I have done really well with IMR stick powders with weighed charges and match bullets but I don't go to that much trouble loading bulk. I can turn out about 500 an hour on the Dillon 550 that will shoot a lot better than I can in a AR with open sights or non magnified electronic sights. I have shot these load in a lot of sporter weight and heavy barreled bolt guns and usually can pull of .75" or smaller group on a regular basis though with the bolt guns I normally use fire formed brass that is just neck sized. Since all of my shooting is 250 yards or less it has always been sufficient for my needs. Try 25 grains of H335 or 28 grains of 748 with commercial brass, Winchester or CCI primers under a Sierra or Nosler 55 grain BT bullet. I really like the Lee factory crimp die also. Helps in the uniformity part. If you use military brass you might back off half a grain or so.

They didn't have any 720's available in there swap program but they were loaded with 712's so I took one of those instead. I will check on them when I get back. Have to travel the next couple of days.

I had a Franchi 620 a while back and it came with a full set of external chokes. Problem is the receiver on the Franchi broke and when I sent it back they replace the entire shotgun with a different model since they didn't make that one anymore. So now I cannot figure out what else these might fit. Any ideas?

I agree on the gunbroker. A note though, to search completed auctiosn you must be signed in as a registered user. A guest will not get the completed option in the drop down menu. Also, once you have the completed auction list just click on bids, twice, to get the most bids up first. I find this most useful. I then look at average bid made regardless if it sold or met reserve. This tells me what others were willing to pay. You will see a lot of bids in the same range on common guns, if the price is substantially higher you will find it is usually a finer or rare model and/or it has more things with it.

I tried them and as far as feeding, reliability and accuracy they were decent. I picked up a used one one time and tried some of the trigger "fixes". i could get the pull lightened but then when I tried rapid fire I would lose reset. Tried polishing this and that according to all the articles and could get it pretty smooth but never light. Finally gave up and decided to stick with the Glocks I have. Loved the grip angle though. May switch to all M&P's one day but I have too much Glock stuff.

I recently tried some of the Break Free Foaming bore cleaner and it did a good job of cutting out the copper on several rifles I tried. As to your cleaning procedures, don't use a brass brush with a copper dissolving cleaner as you could be leaving residue from the brush in the barrel. I use a brushes with the standard Hoppes 9 or even with just Ed's Red. I want the brush to remove carbon fouling and powder residue. For copper removal use a wet path only. If your barrel has tooling marks even at a microscopic level, it is going to trap and hold bullet jacket material. Even if you get it all out, as soon as you shoot a bullet down the barrel, it will return. If I can get .5 to .75" groups out of factory ammo in a 30 caliber, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you want to try to slick up the barrel try some of the fire-lapping bullets. One other thing I use on tough cases is JB's Bore paste. it does a good job also. Be sure to clean out the Sweats very well because ammonia attracts moisture like crazy. The ammonia at that strength will not hurt barrel steel but the moisture it attracts will.