glockster157

My thought there was not having to have so much brass for each rifle. I like to dedicate brass for each gun so I can neck size for a better chamber fit. So if I had 300 cases dedicated for 2 different rifles I would have plenty of ammo for each gun, could swap up to cut down on heat, and I should be able to load all the empties back up in only a hour or two in the evenings for the next days shoot.

I was actually pushing for humor not a pizzing contest(sic). Sorry if it has turned into one. I can load pretty quick on a single stage if I have a clear bench and I have all my components out. For handguns I keep a good rhythm on the powder measure and my Uniflow stays very consistent. When I do rifles I do the same unless it is a varmint/benchrest gun then I weigh every charge. As to time, I can do 50 rounds in about 45 minutes on handguns. Rifles about the same unless I have to trim cases or weigh charges, then maybe and hour. As to loading accurate ammo on a progressive, I can't speak to Lee or Hornady, but I have tested loads on my Dillon 550B with excellent results. I have used a neck sizer die in 223, 6mm, 308 and used ball powders with benchrest primers, bullets seated to within .010" of the rifling. My groups ran just as good as if I had loaded them on a single stage. I only did it once to test the potential of using a Dillon for mass producing ammo in the field for a prairie dog hunt but I have never had the chance to go on one yet. But when I do, I am packing the Dillon on a portable bench.

The security six was a great gun. The big difference between the Security Six/Redhawk is the spring system. In the Security Six/Redhawk series the main spring works both the hammer and the trigger return. To lighten the DA trigger pull by reducing the main spring tension also lightens the hammer strike. On the GP100/Super Redhawk series, there is a main spring and a trigger return spring. You can put a spring kit in a GP100/Super Redhawk and get a better trigger without having to lighten the main spring too much. As to strength, all these Rugers are super strong. I love my 5.5" Redhawk.

I haven't done 44's or 45 acp's on a single stage in a while. Last time I did them on the Dillon I did about 350 and hour for the 44's and 450 an hour on the 45's. I switched the bullet type and powder charge on the 44's or it would be about the same. I have done 500 plus an hour on prepped 223's when I went at at. So progressives are great for busy people....or people like me with ADD. I can't do it all night like I used to ...... nor do I like reloading all evening either.

Send me a pm, I am near you. I get to Hendersonville quite often and helping you setup will not be a problem.

There are many variables in bullets seating depth. In pistols feeding and magazine fit are the most important. I once loaded a bunch of 45acp's with 200 grain lead semi-wadcutters to what looked just like what I had been loading. But this was a different brand and the nose was slightly longer. None would fit in my 1911 mags...oops. For revolvers I have had to seat long bullets, like the Keith 173 grain SWC, over the first driving band in SW's that have recessed cylinders. they shot just fine. In rifles length effects feeding and magazine fit as well as accuracy. If I want the best accuracy I will seat the bullet out just off the rifling even if it will not fit the magazine. I just load them one at a time. Love my single shots. I have loaded varmint/target rounds where the bullet was way out there. This will reduce pressure allowing more powder and higher velocities in some circumstances. On the other hand, I have had bullets want to set back in semi autos and this will increase pressures as stated. Always test and check for bullet set back on any semi auto before shooting too many of any new load.

With jacketed bullets RL7 seems to be a very popular powder. I have used 3031 and 4198 also with great success. For reduced loads with jacketed bullets I use IMR SR4759. For lead bullet loads you can use most medium to slow pistol powders. Many perform best with a dacron filler and I hate fooling with filler. Mike Venterino has switched to Accurate 5744 for all his black powder rifle cartridge loads. I just bought a 8 lb jug I like it so much. With my 405 grain gas checked bullets, actual weight is 425 with grease and check, I get consistent 1.5" or smaller 100 yard groups using 28 grains for 1300fps. I can bump that up to 32 to 34 grains but I rarely do that. If I want high velocity I switch to 3031 with the lead. The thing that makes 5744 so good is it ignites very easily with no filler, is bulky so it fills the case better than pistol powders and it is not position or temperature sensitive. One other powder I am playing with is Trail Boss. It is super bulky and is meant for cowboy action shooters. You can make some real powder puff loads with this stuff. I really don't have much use for it. Edit: I use a gas check bullet that I cast. But I also cast and buy plain base bullets. I have found the 28 grain 5744 load also works just fine with the Lasercast bevel based bullets or the Lee plain based 405's and 340's. You really don't need a gas check at 1300 fps if the alloy is decent.

The P90 is the T34 of handguns. It is a tank but a very good tank. I wouldn't make fun of Rugers but I do send them suggestions that they sell them by the pound. The other advantage is if you run out of ammo, you can bludgeon them to death with it....try that with as G26 or a Keltec.

I would say that is a little high. I would offer him about $250. I doubt if you paid 325 you could get your money back in the near future if you decided to sell.

OOPS, forgot to add the site link Hi Powers and Handguns

Great site with a lot of good Hi Power info. I sold my older High Powers but I kept a MKIII. Better sights, ambi safety, throated, tougher finish. If I wanted a 40sw I would just buy a CZ 75. http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/

Wow, that has been a while since I made that post. I too really like the 3913...I currently do not have one but I will come across another eventually. It is a fine carry pistol and I have kept 3 mags and several holsters for it so I would be prepared when I do.

Patience is a virtue in this game. I buy components in bulk when I get the chance and in small quantities when I cannot find deals. I started loading the 223 in 1981. Since then prices have climbed a bit. I usually divide the cost of brass by 10. I figure I will lose it or the neck will crack by then as I don't anneal cases that are readily available. Powders are plentiful that will work well in this caliber so I buy what is on sale, the same for bullets. Primers jumped but I had a good supply when they did, so I did not have to pay out the nose. One other tip, buy out guys that are getting out of reloading. Keep what you need and resell the rest. I keep all consumables and sell off things like dies, scales, presses, etc. Here are my averages recently, 223 Brass 4-6 cents each \10= .4-.6 per round per reload Powder $20 per pound \25 grains per round = 7.2 cents per round Primers $25 per K(now) = 2.5 cents per round (I have bought some as low as 20 per K recently) Bullets $70-90 per K = 7-9 cents per round. ( have been buying repacked Hornady bulk SP's for 80 per K) Total .5+7.2+2.5+8 = 18.2 cents per round If I can get free brass it lowers my cost, If I can get components cheaper by trade or buying in bulk it lowers my cost. Using Commercial cases, 25 grains of say H335, WW primers, bulk Hornady SP bullets, I can make a very nice, very accurate round that performs far better than most steel cased import ammo I have tried and it shoots a lot cleaner also. By using military brass I have to add in the labor of reaming primer pockets which is a pain but I will do it if I can get the brass cheap enough.

One old trick to stop the static cling is to wet the plastic with soapy water but do not rinse, let the plastic air dry. Works well for funnels, bowls, dippers and powder hoppers and such. Works too. I have done it many times. Usually on the bowls and such I just dip them in the sink and let them dry. You can dip the powder hoppers upside down and let them drain and dry also.

The story goes that when Bill Ruger was designing and testing the P85 for the military trials that one test was to thread the barrel at the muzzle, screw a plug into it, and then fire it in a ransom rest in a safe room. All it did was break the extractor, so Bill beefed up those extractors. I actually read this report in Guns and Ammo back in the mid 80's so it is not hear say, they printed this as a factual event witnessed by the writer. I have owned and shot many of the p-series. Using Ruger mags I have never had a problem and I would rate their reliability right up there with the Glocks and Sigs. Only complaint I have with them, or Ruger handguns in general, is they should be sold by the pound.

Just ordered the Super Mag Plus Past recoil pad from Midway. I don't plan on making too many loads where that would be necessary but it is better to have it and not need it than the other way round. I am thinking of making a portable standing bench for testing. I read that is what they use in other countries to test and sight in the big bores. Sitting at a bench makes these guns really slam you...ouch. PS..I already ran a couple of the RCBS 45-405-GC bullets thru it with the open sights. Used 40 grains of 5744 so it should be about 1600 fps. Light load but still kicks a little. Open sights were really high with that load at a 100. I put a Weaver 2-7x32 on it as it is all I have right now. One thing is these 458's have a 1-14" twist so I am not sure how these heavy bullets will shoot in comparison to the 45-70's 1-20/22" twist rates.

This is a ripped off pic but it looks just like this. I will take some real pics when I have time and the sun is shining. My wood is not as nice but it isn't bad.

That would be a 458 Winchester...I know I need this like a need the proverbial "whole in the head" but I could not resist. I got one of those offers you cannot refuse. It is a Ruger Number 1-H Tropical in 458 Win mag with a bunch of new brass. I had recently purchased a like new set of RCBS dies in this caliber just in case I were to run across one. I guess I will have to add that to my "you might be a gun nut if" list. Anyways, I plan to mainly shoot the RCBS 45-405 gas checked cast bullets at mid to upper 45-70 velocities and the 340 & 405 Lee plain base cast bullets at trap door speeds. Of course I will have to make a few hot loads just for the experience. Since the rifle weighs 9.25 pounds before scope I don't think the recoil will be too bad. Just in case I am ordering a PAST Mag Plus recoil pad for my shoulder since I have a 375 H&H, 45-70 and a 375 Winchester and they all can be a little painful at times. Anybody ever shoot a hog with one of these? That may be on my next list.

Do a search on YouTube. I found some good videos on guns like these and watching someone put them back together is more helpful than looking at a schematic. If I remember the last time I stripped a Marlin/Glenfield Model 60 it was fairly simple.

Anybody got some 44 caliber gas checks laying around your not going to use. I found a mold I didn't even know I had. Lyman 429244 2 cavity GC. Picked it up in a deal where I bought a friends casting equipment. I didn't realize I did not have any 44 caliber gas checks. I have tons of 30's, some 22's, 35's, 38's and even 32's but alas...no 44's.

Typically I will try to tailor my loads for accuracy in my rifles. However, in handguns I try to make a round that will work well in most handguns. I don't try to re-invent the wheel either. Do some searching on line and you can find some very good information about loads that others have tried and used. I prefer to use loads that have been recommended and tried by many of the popular writers as these seem well tested. As to loading info, I have most all the loading manuals but i also use the on-line manuals from Alliant, Accurate, IMR/Hodgdon/Winchester as well as Handloader.com and also a good sight for classic loads if Sixguns.com. Try this page GHL 45ACP Pt 1

Try Wideners Widener's Reloading and Shooting Supply INC

I am coming into this conversation a little late but let me say there are higher levels of 22's that can fit into your price range. One that comes to mind is SK Jagd High Velocity. Excellent accuracy with superb accuracy. If accuracy is the key factor then Wolf Match Target, Eley Sport or Target. These are all in the 6 to 10 dollar per 100 range at Champions Choice in Smyrna. My first choice for accuracy is the Wolf Match Target and my first choice for performance is the SK Jagd High Velocity. http://www.champchoice.com/cat-Ammunition-230.aspx BTW, there are 7000 grains to a pound. That is 437.5 grains to an ounce. You can do the math from there.

For up to 250 grain bullets I use Alliant 2400. For heavier bullets either 2400 or H110/W296(same powder). 2400 is the powder Elmer Keith used to develop the 44 mag and it is more versatile than H110/296. It may not give the absolute max velocity but it gives the best combination of velocity and accuracy than any other powder I have ever tried in the 357/41/44 mags.

There should be no real difference in a Marlin 1894 in 357 and a revolver. That being said, Rugers a dang strong. I have shot insane loads in them in my youth that should not have been tried. I am not that confident that a Marlin is any stronger than a S&W revolver. I am sure it is not as strong as a Thompson Center Contender. As to using small rifle primers in the pistol, I am not sure exactly what you are trying to accomplish, as 2400 is not hard to ignite and does well with standard pistol primers. I have used small rifle primers before just to experiment and I found some revolvers would not set them off with more than one strike. Also, most plated bullets are not rated for velocities over 1000 fps and Alliant lists 17.5 grains of 2400 as max with a 125 grain bullet for 1409 FPS. Could be a problem for that thin plating. But...each to his own.