glockster157

Be careful on those +1's on a 36. The only Glock I have had feeding malfunctions from was a 1st Gen 36 with +1 extensions. I also had a few issues w/o them but mostly with, so watch out for that.

Where did you find the +2 Glock grip extension? Pearce doesn't list it.

For general use a Ruger P series pistol is hard to beat for value, strength and reliability. That being said they are kinda klunky and heavy. I have always said they should be sold by the pound. Another great value in pistols are police trade-in's. There are a lot of 3rd gen SW's in 9mm, 40SW and even 45ACP out there and I have found them to be good values. Others are Beretta 92/96's and Glock 17/22's. One I just came across and trying is the SW99 in 40sw. Never had one before and so far I like it a lot. Ergonomic, decent trigger w/re-strike capability (DA/SA with decocker but no hammer), good sights, lightweight, has been reliable and has a lifetime warranty from SW as I understand it. But then again, I love the 3rd gen SW's as house guns because of the magazine disconnect though I know many don't like that feature.

I remember the first bench I had. I could slip it into a closet to get it out of sight. Give it 25 years or so and see what that room looks like.

I just lucked into what looks like a rare 1940 "Black Widow" Luger. It is a Mauser produced pistol, all matching numbers, 3 digit SN if that makes a difference which I doubt, has the bakelite grips with the screw retainers on the inside, FXO marked mag with the black bakelite plug, black finish including the trigger-safety lever-take down lever, has about 80% finish and very good bore...though it does have a little fine pitting. Question I have is value of course? I have seen some very high prices on these. Seems very few were made in 1940, most are 41's or 42' and are marked BYF where this one is marked 42. And is this really a "Black Widow", I know this is not a collectors term but somebodies fanciful invention, but that is what they are called. All I can say is it meets all the descriptions I have read.

I wasn't getting my PM email notices so I changed from Comcast email address to a gmail. Now I have stopped getting those. Ideas? everthing is still set the same as before.

As to turrets, find good used Lyman, I use a T-Mag(early one), you can use a Spar-t also but neither have the compound leverage of the T-mag II. I would have gotten that one but I could not find a used one. As to stages of operation, I never start doing large batch loading until all my prep work is done. Of course I do have a Dillon 550B but I still use the turret for 06, 308, 45 Colt and calibers I don't have a Dillon setup for or I only load smaller lots. Anyways, for once fired military brass, I full length size, trim, chamfer, decrimp the primer pockets before I even think about loading. Turrets are faster than a single stage but not that much, but they are great if you are using three die sets for straight walled cases or you want to keep 2-3 different die sets screwed in and adjusted. Changing dies a lot in a single stage can get old if you do a lot of different calibers and operations. The drawback is usually you still need a single stage if you are going to do heavy work that requires a lot of leverage and you still only complete one operation with each pull of the handle. I still use a hand primer tool when I load on the turret and I still have to individually charge each case with powder. For 223 or pistol rounds there is really no substitute for a progressive. I might be able to do a 50-100 rounds an hour on a turret but I can do 500 rounds on a progressive in those smaller calibers with ball powder.

You may be thinking of Bob Pope, they did buy him out, that is why they are doing the Franklin shows at the Ag center.

If it has a front adjustable sight and it is 10 5/8s barrel it is a silhouette model. If it is not damaged by the scope install it is worth around 900 not 300. Smith&Wesson .44 Magnum mod.29-3 10 1/2 : Revolvers at GunBroker.com Here is a older gunbroker listing.

First, all 686's have adjustable sights....if it doesn't it is a 681. There were few options, white outline rear sight, red ramp front sight, barrel length, some grips, I don't think they had a target trigger or hammer option but I am not sure. If you have the box and it is like new you might be able to get that 550-600 but normally I see people asking that and never getting it. 450 is more realistic IMO and I have bought and sold a number over the years.

SW come with very good SA trigger pulls but there are a lot of shade tree gunsmiths that screw them up. They can usually be fixed pretty easily. One thing I do to test the SA sear is to cock the revolver, and then push the hammer forward with my thumb. Not real hard but fairy firmly. If you can push the hammer off the sear it then it has been polished and rounded over. If the mainspring has been ground on or bent, or the strain screw has been backed out that is a really easy fix. As to the scope mounting, see if there were any holes drilled into the frame for the scope mount. This will lower the value considerably for me as I cannot just remove the mount to restore the gun to stock. Also, where is the rear sight, is it lost?

Remember guys, twist rates are based on bullet length not bullet weight, so the shape of the bullet and materiel the bullet is constructed from can make a big difference.

Try Rig Gun Grease. I preach the stuff as an old gunsmith put me onto it 30+ years ago. A thin coat will protest most bare or blue finish for quite some time. I have never had a rust issue on my guns. Brownells did a test by leaving bare metal plates outside for 2 weeks coated in various oils and such. The only one that did not rust or even stain was Rig. Just an FYI.

I have had several of the RI's and Metros and I was quite impressed by their performance. For the money they will be hard to beat. As a comparison, I had no more problem out of them than I have had out of Kimber, SA's, Colts, etc. when you are talking about out of the box, un-tuned guns. I believe I will try a SS LW Metro Arms Commander myself.

After many, many years as a revolver fan/shooter, and after owning most everything out there numerous times, I can tell you there are 2 revolvers that are unbeatable for value and performance in your price range. The SW 686 and the Ruger GP100 are by far the best in this field IMHO. I love the K frame SW's also but they cannot take a steady diet of heavy loads, especially 125 grainers. That is why SW developed the the L frame 686 series. The N frames are great but they are very large and usually cost more. As stated you can find a good Model 28 in that price range and they are my third choice. But there is nothing it can do that the other two cannot. The Ruger is actually stronger than the SW (by a small margin) and with a Wolf spring kit the trigger can be made a little better but it will never match the SW. So it you want to make hot hot loads and shoot a lot of them I always recommend the Ruger, If you want to shoot lots of standard magnums and 38's the 686 or M28, lots of 38's and just some occasional magnums, the M19/M66. I also agree to stay away from Taurus as a primary revolver. I have had good ones and bad ones but there is really no comparison to the Rugers or SW's in the same price range. I have had some 686's and M28's with timing issues also but they are pretty easy to have fixed. I have never had a Ruger with a timing issue.

I personally like the 1-8" twist for a good all around twist. I also like WW748 but I also have had very good results with the heavy bullets and 2520. Never had that much luck out of the 1-12" guns with the 55 FMJBT's. Don't seem to stabilize that well. Flat base bullets seemed to shoot well.

What greg said is right, however, hollow based bullets are designed to be shot at lower pressures to achieve that obturation(filling out) of the bore. If you push hollow based bullets to hard it can damage that skirt and increase leading, they are designed more for target shootingl. One the other hand, flat based bullets will also fill out the bore under pressure but they need more pressure to do it, so they are more suited for service load/power loads.

It is a model 9801 but I am not sure of the prefix. The PX is bitone and the PW is a GI. I cannot find a loaded all blue 3" on their website or on Gunbroker. SA will list a package, such as the 3" GI model, as a PW9801LP. So I don't know what prefix goes with this one. Must be an early model.

Oh, I didn't know it was a a Lee....I have both Lee and RCBS. The Lee usually works well. If you are sizing to the shell holder you could try backing off a bit. One other thing, check case length. It is highly unlikely that it would cause the problem you describe but it is one of the only other factors I can think of right now.

How far down are you neck sizing? You should only size about 2/3rds of the neck. If you go all the way to the bottom of the neck and bump the shoulder you could be changing the case shape slightly.

Put it in a ammo can and put it away. Then if you ever need some 8x57 you will have it. If sealed well it will keep indefinitely. Better to have it and not need it than the other way round.

i don't know about matches but it sure is satisfying to blast one that has drove you crazy. I used to do PC building and repair. It was a favorite past time.

I need to get thru the 10 pounds I got of the old stuff....could take a while.

PM sent....I am in that area a lot. I will have a little free time

I have been casting for a number of years but I don't cast that often. I try and do a lot of bullets at one time so I don't have to do it as often. I used to team with a buddy but he has gotten too old and doesn't like to cast anymore. I have always done the pistol bullets but lately I have been experimenting with the big bores. I have several different 30, 375 and 45 caliber rifles and soon I want to try some 35 and maybe 32 caliber rifles. One thing I will say is that Accurate 5744 is now my friend.