vujade

There are only 3 settings.  OFF (turns it into a single shot)  Suppressor and "Normal".  The Adams rep said pretty leave it on Normal.    I think my loads may be super light so I'm upping the charge a bit.  I'll also buy some *gasp* store ammo to test it.  I think I have a box of 556 around somewhere as well.

Hello,   I'd like to tap into TGO's collective experience and know-how here.    So I picked up an Adam's Arms 14.5 Piston Upper (1/7 Twist)  and went to the range today to give it a try.  I had about 100 rounds (I know, I was in a hurry).   Most of them were my reloads (load details below) which, at least for other guns, performed well (accurate (2MOA with iron sights)) and reliable (no failures) (Stag, PSA, S&W and a Troy).    On the AA upper (dropped it in a standard PSA lower), accuracy is about the same 1-1.25 inches (5 shot groups) at 50 yards with iron sights (front benched).   However, I was jamming round after round. Spent round would eject but the next round would have difficulty chambering.  When firing a single round, it would fail to lock on an empty mag.  Spent casing were ejecting at 4-5 oclock.   This went on for about 50-60 rounds.  I also shot some Fiocchi and Wolf ammo (those failed to lock the slide back as well) The last 40 rounds (reloads) were much improved.  It started to lock the magazine at each empty (i would only load 1 at a time to test) and when I would fire strings of 5, no jams.   Questions:     1. Is there normally a break in period for reliability for Piston guns?     2. Maybe I just load too lightly?  Federal or Hornady cases.  50grain amax, 55 grain vmax and 55FMJ and 62 FMJ + 22.3-22.6 grains of WC844 (h335).      3. Does a full auto BCG or piston require hotter loads than DI?     4. Using irons only, should I expect better groups from my guns?  (I know, i probably should get a scope to really test accuracy).     5. Is it your experience that piston guns are less accurate than equivalent DI counterparts?   and I know, I need to try some varget or h335 and I need to get a chrony but it's at least another week until I can get to the range.    Or do I stop worrying about it - 40 rounds without issues is a good sign that I'm good to go and I just need to keep shooting the same.     (if this should go in the reloading section, let me know.  At one point, i'm thinking the upper has an issue so I figure I start here).

After being away from guns for a while (i took up the other shooting hobby (photography)), I returned by going to the convention!  So much good SWAG. =)  I can't wait to go shooting again!  This has really energized me and reminded me why I got into this a few years ago.

Thanks everyone for the kind support!    ggwilde, we should connect.  I'm always looking for other photographers; let me know what type of shooting you do.  I'd love to shoot Knoxville skyline/building somet time (never been there but passing).

Confession - I haven't been here in a while and I can count in a hand how many times I went to the range last year. In life, you are diverted to competing demands. For me, it was a new highly stressful job and the need for more readily accessible stress relief. It's hard to find time to get to a range so I had to pick up something easier and I fell in love with photography. It was a canon I can shoot any time. (Unfortunately, I had to essentially trade/sell guns for lenses - i still miss a Savage rifle and a couple of Sigs). During the last few weeks, I had a few opportunities to reconcile both passions and I hope to be more active in shooting again. I'd like to share a few photos I took. I didn't realize my watermark was on my photos until I posted them. If I'm not allowed to share my site, let me know and I'll kindly re-edit to post a different photo. Here are 2 of my favorite guns: (there is an ugly watch in the first photo (the only watch I have), I had submitted the photo for another project called #steelwaiting to show that guns won't shot by itself no matter how long you wait.)

ok.  i found this:   http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XAIMBOLT&name=AIM+9310+MPI+AR%2fM16+5.56+Bolt&groupid=723   and then I'll add the firing pin, retaining pin and bolt cam pin.    thanks for catching that OS.  Let me know if this will complete me or if I need anything else.   good idea with the back up bolt/pin inside the pistol grip.  I have that exact pistol grip, i'll add an extra bolt and firing pin in the future.

and I found the 'non stripped one'   http://www.midwayusa.com/product/237709/les-baer-custom-bolt-assembly-ar-15-matte   if I got this one... i'll add the other items I have above (firing pin, bolt cam pin, retaining pin). anything else?   And for AR15s and buying bolts... do you need to worry about headspacing.  I heard someone say they 'headspace themselves' but I want to verify.   Are these true 'drop in' pieces?

...shows how little I know. Yep, it's stripped so it doesn't have the extractor or anything.    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/350572/les-baer-custom-bolt-stripped-ar-15-matte?cm_cat=Cart&cm_pla=ProductDesc   it may almost be easier/too close in price to just buy a complete BCG...

Hello.   I'm picked up an AR15 " build in progress'.  I now just need to finish the BCG.  (In the meanwhile, I used one from another rifle and it works).   I have the Bolt Carrier Only.  In order to finish it I believe I only need the following:  (can someone check this to make sure before I hit submit on an order from Midway)   - Les Baer Custom Bolt Stripped AR-15 Matte - Olympic Arms Firing Pin Retaining Pin AR-15 - DPMS Firing Pin M-16 - DPMS Bolt Cam Pin AR-15 Matte   What are some wear/tear items on an AR15 that I may want to get a spare off?  (firing pin maybe?)   Any other feedback will be appreciated!  (i'm fairly new to the black rifle)

H335 or the military equivalent 844 (in my experience (or this lot) it's hotter so make sure to start low and work up). I use pulled 55 grain FMJ as well. Out of a factory Stag AR15 (free float barrel) and a 4x primary arms scope - it'll give me .75 inches at 50 yards easily. 1.5-2 inches at 100 yards benched. Using 50 to 55 grain hornady a/v/z-max bullets - It'll be about the same with less fliers. Typically 1.5 inches at 100 yards benched. Here is the rifle. 1/9 twist. 16 inch barrel.

Beautiful.  CZs are on my list to get (if Sigs would just give me a break!)

I have a Primary Arms 1-4x on my AR15.  It's got an illuminated dot.  It feels much more than a $120 optic.

holy cow, $139 for surplus powder?!?   Wasn't it like $80 the last time they were around?

lower and upper.  thank you.

I'm going to start to shoot that tacks out of my targets next time.   =)

  haha!  I fixed the title.  Thanks.  I kept calling it "tact driving or tact driver".  haha!  English is only my first language.  Pardon me.

reloading.  and eating ice cream.

I hear this term get tossed around a lot when folks describe their favorite gun, a gun they are selling, etc.   - Under an MOA for a rifle with 3 shots, 5 shots, 10 shots?   - 1 ragged hole for a handgun at 25 yards if the handgun is benched?   - Hitting the bullseye standing at 8yards?   I personally like to bench any of my guns and loads/ammo before i start shooting it with my skill level.  That way I know what it'll do.  I typically use 5 rounds with a rifle benched at 100 yards (and it's got to be .75 inches or less) or a handgun somewhat benched (my elbows on the table) at 25 yards (and it has to be 2 inches or less).   How do you all define it?

I have the p228, p226 and p220. I'll add that the p226 and p228 shoots a hair better than the p220. My p228 and p226 are both the older W. German make and it seems tighter all around. The p220 is a more recent make (not in Germany) and while it's accurate enough - I believe it when they say the older Sigs are nicer. There is (my experience) a difference with the trigger (smoother on the German ones, it could be just broken in?) AND even the way the decocker works... I can't describe it but I like the older German ones better. When you work decocker - the action is very pronounced and it holds the hammer firmly until you drop the decocker all the way. The non W. German p220's decocker seems a little less crisp. To answer your question - the grips all feel the same. oh - it's great that all 3 of the Sigs fit well in the same holster.

Does this affect military surplus ammo that is pulled and sold as military pull down powder/pulled bullets?

Past Friday - the goods from midway came in.  I tested the rounds on the 45 ACP gage - Yes, about all of the old ones before I added a crimp didn't fit!  I had 30-40% of the other loads have a tight fit or would indicate being too large/bullet not seated deep enough.   I installed a Lee factory Crimp die.  Adjusted the bullet seating die so that it only SAT the bullet and applied No crimp.  Crimping is done independently by the new die.   I found this more consistent and every round now fits no problem on the gage.   15 and 16 pound recoil springs arrived as well.  We installed the 16 pounders.   (same size/length as the one already there)   I made loads from 4.1 to 4.7 grains pushing 200 grain LSWC, 230 grain LRN and 230 grain FMJ.  Same Tula Large primers on mostly Winchester brass.   Same good magazines:  Wilson combat 47Ds. (new and flawless in my 1911s)   Off to the range this morning with my Dad to try all these out.   For the first 50 rounds - every round to every other round would either fail to eject (it would fire, slide moves back, but the extractor would now hold on to the empty case.) or it would fail to feed.  It would eject the case but not have enough 'umph' to strip a round from the magazine feed it.  (the slide goes back and stops when trying to strip that round from the magazines).    After 50 rounds, I don't know if it loosened up a bit but the next 100 or so rounds - we could get 1-2 magazines to go without an issue.  Then once in a while, we'll have the issues described above.    We tried changing to the 15 pounder recoil spring - no difference.  We tried some factory ammo - it was flawless.  The reloads using FMJ were about flawless (i think we had 1 or 2 out of the 25 loaded fail to eject).  The LRN were ok but also not perfect.  The LSWC were the most problematic but like i said, towards the end better but not enough to trust a life on...   So, I've been googling.  Some recipes had 5.0 grains of Bullseye.  I'll make a few 4.9 and 5.1 loads and see if those are better.  I'm going to see about polishing his feed ramps/barrel throat - it's pretty new - black and not at all polished.  I reckon the lead would hang up on the rough parts when trying to load.  And what do you guys think of the extractor?  Some suggest bending it a bit to get more tension.   We're open to any other ideas.   The gun is VERY accurate.  I hate the GI sights but we can hit what we aim for pretty easily.  (25 yard shooting).  The trigger is very sweet - 3.5 pounds with no creep/travel/etc... best handgun trigger I've tried. Now if only it can be more reliable.

Thank you graycrait.   Yeah, I wish I had a ransom rest to more effectively test a gun and loads.   I wish I had a chronygraph (I shot my last one) that still worked to at least test for consistent velocity.     I had my elbows rested and then the bottom part of my right hand holding the gun.  It's still hard to make sure sight picture is consistent with just the 3 dots.  The trigger on both guns were excellent so that helps a lot. 

Yes - I've been using the barrel as a gauge.  The first ones were very tight/wouldn't go all the way in.  That fixed a lot of the issues.  (this was last week).   Now it's just doing as described.    I've got a gage on order from Midway.  A taper crimp.  and 2 springs:  15 and 16 pounds. 

Hello TN gunowners, I am a proud owner of a new Sig 1911. I also have a S&W 1911 (not the e-series). How about a little review/evaluation/comparison: SW1911 vs SIg Nitron 1911 SW1911 has a new factory barrel from S&W. It's at 600 rounds atm. Replaced the trigger (so that it doesn't have the SW trigger wobble) and upgraded the bushing to a EWG match bushing. I really like Sig's grips to I acquired another set of those grips and put them on the S&W as well. Sig Nitron. It's LNIB. 2/2013 production. Lower right group of 5 shots @ 13 yards. The very first for the day! Boy was I surprised and it helped with quickly gaining confidence with the gun. The first shoot took out the orange bullseye sticker and the rest proceeded to just make the single hole incremental bigger. Upper left target was at 25 yards. A little over an inch if you discount one round I knew I pulled down. Upper right is also at 25 yards. 5 shots, a little over an inch. All loads were Missouri Bullet Company 200 LSWC with 4.0 grains of bullseye. I wanted to test the gun so I was sitting and resting my elbows on the bench. I also shot several fast strings but I won't post those. =) My S&W will do 2-3 inches at 25 yards. Once in a while, it'll surprise me with a sub 1.5 inch group but they aren't consistent enough to happen. This 2.4 inch group is about it's average. At 13 yards, they were neck in neck. S&W on the left and Sig on the right. Some observations/thoughts: Sig's trigger is 5.3 pounds. It's not as smooth; it's got a bit of grit/travel. It's not broken in yet so that may improve. S&W's trigger is right at 4 pounds. The nicest/smoothest break like glass trigger and I love it. S&W's action is much smoother. It's like the rails have butter on them. Nothing snags. Everything is very smooth. There is SOME slide/frame wiggle but not excessive. The Sig is tighter all around. I like S&W's finish. That SS satin is smooth and clean. Sig's nitron finish is 'ok'. I'm not a big fan. I know it will wear faster. It's not smooth; it's very business-like. I don't like the fact that the Sig won't fit in traditional holsters but I like how it matches the P series guns (which I love). The sig has some pretty aggressive checkering and there are sharp edges on the gun. Towards the end, parts of my hands were red from the Sig. The S&W is a pleasure to hold and shoot. The rain was coming down pretty hard at one point. Both guns performed without a hiccup. Today was a good day!

this one looks good to try out different springs:   http://www.midwayusa.com/product/631660/wilson-combat-spring-caddy-1911-government   Without knowing whats in the gun now (my Dad got it used but it's looks new enough with case, papers, etc.), I don't know if it's a 16 pound factory one - if it's much longer (1.5 inches or so) than what's in my S&W1911, can I assume that's definitely NOT factory 16?