bikertrash2001

Whittaker's seems to have good prices on everything, guns and ammo. I have a buddy that lives in Kentucky and he says there usually is the opening line each day though. Sales tax is lower too.

I would ponder casting but I've been thinking the tire shops are getting raided for their lead these days about as bad as Wal Mart is for .22's.   Are there places that you can just walk up too and offer to take it of their hands?

That's a good deal! The smooth finish of the pre-war receivers is nice. I wish CAI would be a little more discreet with the new serial number stamping.

Thanks David!

Hey David, My subscription automatically renewed but my Benefactor status hasn't been updated. Is this a related issue?   Thanks!

Mmmmmmmmmmmm, woody... I'll trade ya a nice laminated stock for number 6 there. :dirty:

Hey guys, I finally found myself a Garand last week and I've be perusing all of the info out there and I was wondering about some things. My serial is Feb 44 Springfield (Yay). I was wondering how far off the drawing numbers for the other parts typically were. Everything on mine is Springfield, but the dash numbers are from distant months/years. My bolt is a W9B which could have been any where from 42-44. i know this could have all changed at the rework but I just wondering how close to the serial number the rest of the parts usually fell. I actually would like the challenge of a little parts chasing.

When people run carbines, what brands/models show up?

I was in the same boat but then one presented itself and I had to just whip out the plastic and grab it. I'm so glad I did. I hate using credit cards, but this one is justified.

I get Allegra a lot.

I've thought about that too. But then I can't hide behind a screen name when I have a horrible match like I did last time. 

Are you using Pyrodex? I was only using a weighed 15g which was about 3 scoops of a .5cc Lee dipper. The weight vs. volume part of Pyrodex is a little confusing.   I sent the revolver back home to it's owner. If I were to get one, it would probably be steel. This poor little guy just had too many miles on it.

My personal deal is you can get a piece of WWII history at a great price IMHO. They are about as bullet-proof as a bolt action rifle comes and surplus ammo is relatively cheap at the moment. Since I can't afford a Garand or a 1903 at the moment, I'll take one of these.

They had a picture of an upper-half of a AR. Don't know what he planned on doing with that.   I'm really surprised this one isn't getting the total news freak out.

Well, I tried it out and I still have all my fingers and nose. Glad I wear glasses though, got a little spit-back. I recon that's normal for the type? I was only using about 15g of Pyrodex and the ball set back quite a ways in the cylinder. Is it important to use filler to bring the ball up closer to the edge?   Thanks

The days of getting a Mosin or a AK in your box of Cap'n Crunch are gone. Even if you have a C&R and have AIM mail one to your house, the best you can do is $120. If you don't have a C&R, then your looking at a wad more to a FFL. I would gladly pay more to put my hands on one and look down the barrel than take a chance at a crap shoot on mail order even if they pick a best of 5 for you. It's worth that to me for a rifle I am going to keep. Maybe you can get nice ones through mail order too, but even with millions of those made, they good ones will be gone some day.

I believe that's what he      I'm thinking that's kinda what he had in mind. I'll be the guinea pig. The rust really doesn't have a mechanical significance. I'll have to cruise Bass Pro tomorrow for powder and caps. He happened to have some balls. He had some pyrodex buts it's RS FFg. Don't I need FFFg?   Just measured the cylinder gap and it was .025.   Thanks Guys

A good buddy of mine has a Pietta 1858 Remy 44 cal with the brass frame. It was given to him several years ago and he has no idea of it's past life. He gave it to me to look at and clean and I'm a little concerned about a few things. It definitely looks rode hard and put up wet. It has rust in the barrel and the cylinder bores. It's not crusty stalagmites or anything, but enough to leave a little pitting after cleaning. The action is still very smooth however. I have never owned any kind of revolver (I know, for shame) and I'm not sure about cylinder gap. When the gun is cocked or hammer down, the cylinder is locked up pretty good. When it in on half cock for loading, the cylinder has a fairly generous amount of play front to back. Is this normal or should you measure cylinder gap only when it's locked or hammer down?   Thanks

  I was thinking the EXACT same thing yesterday. The land of tolerance except for white Christian men. 

Military Channel is picking up the slack tonight. 

  I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere today. Shame. Slap in the face of vets that are still around to have the media shrug it off so they can talk Amanda Bynes and gay marriage. 

Holy Crap!. You may have inspired me to take a stab at a BBQ'd 1903 I've seen recently.

Now what would you give you a crazy idea like that?  :)

Bullpups are starting to grow on me and I think this would be really cool on a SKS. 

You ain't even kidding brother. I'm not sure I even want to have my score posted.