TnShooter83

  And what little they do is usually not correct. 

A lot of old time Marlin owners call the new Remington made one "Remlin" At one time they had real issues when they switched plants.  And those rifles were called "Remlins with a Gremlin" as some or most had an issue of some type.   I have personally seen a 45-70 made buy Remlin with a canted front sight right from the factory. The few I'ves een in the last few moths seemed fine. But the action was a bit rough, I guessing this would smooth out with shooting. I'll have to agree with OS, the best were made PRE-2005. I personally like the 1980-1990's myself.

     My research says that it will use Astra-75 mags. So that helps alot if it does.   http://www.ammoclip.com/R/r.htm

I can't read it. I can't make it large enough for me to read.  But I'd like to get the text to read it?   Do you have a direct link?

I have shot a CMMG kit in a Windham Arm (Bushmaster before they sold the name) It has worked very well. The pros are it is cheaper than a dedicated upper or .22lr clone. The cons are it shots DIRTY and you should at least run a few .223/5.56 after 500 rounds or so, I was told the softer lead in the .22lr could potentially stop up the gas port and tube if you blow the lead out of the system. Also you should use a coated .22lr not pure lead. Copper washed is what I use. I HAVE used full lead not copper washed to see if it would function. I had no issues in 100 rounds. After that I went back to copper washed or coated ammo. I have had no issues at all with my kit.   I have maybe 700 round in the kit. It's a CMMG in black.  I clean after maybe 150 rounds to keep things running smooth.

I thought this was pretty cool. Bullets and cartridges cut in half.   Anyone have any idea what rounds they are?   http://imgur.com/a/zNzs7   all images taken by Photographer: Sabine Pearlman

The G21 because I haven't shot a G30 and the G21 is almost like a G19 when it comes to just plain running what ever you throw in it or at it.

We may have to do that one day.  But I may have to work on my camera skills first.  Still get camera shy just sitting in front of one let alone shooting in front of one...

 You make some GREAT videos. I always enjoy watching. If you lived close to East Tennesse, I have access to an Excel Arms 22mag. It is kind of like a BIG Browning Buckmark. I'd like to see what you think of it compared to the PMR. My Grandfather got it at a pawnshop awhile back and I haven'tseen or met any one with another SemiAuto .22mag yet.   So far I put 100 rounds or Winchester HP in it with 3 failures to fire. I'm blaming the ammo, I've had this same ammo fail to fire in 2 other rifles. A CZ and a Savage.....

They are fine revolvers. You can alos buy a conversion cylinder for it if you want. If you do you will need to shoot cowboy loads in it.   I took the grips off and washed it with a water hose. Then poured boil water over it followed by a good soaking of WD-40. No 2 week after rust of any kind. 

You van buy an extended waranty on the Winchester Eletronic Lock, I asked this question when In was looking at them at TSC. You have to call Winchester Safes, I forget what the price was though?   And I would get the winchester, It is the better safe.

Have you taken the extractor out and clean and looked at it good? It looks like the round is not sliding up under the extractor in that pic. If you take the slide off and barrel out of the slide. Is it hard to slide the rim of round in between the extractor and the breech face?   You could also inspect the feed ramp for wear, fouling, or nicks and dings. But I doubt that is the issue.   It could like others said be a spring issue. But you can check the other stuff before/while you are waiting on springs.

I'm in. I just hope they don't call me with free vacations offers. I get those alot now already.   Thanks.

I feel your pain man, I got in to them buggers last week. The itching is just starting to go away. As for the ticks, I've had them for for over a moth now. Found one on me just today, still crawling thankfully. I'd take a a couple ticks over chiggers any day as long as they don't have lymes disease  And after all that I still get to fight the misquotes every evening. 

I've owned 2 Henry rifles, both in .22lr. I NEVER had a single issue with any of them. I like the fact I can shoot 22 shorts in them also. I would not advise a "Golden Boy" model if you want to scope it as it does not come with dovetail groved for a scope. The standard blue models do. I've shot them (and still do) in .22lr, 17hmr, and 22mag.  You just can't go wrong with a Henry.    The only Henry I ever had an issue with was a used 17hmr "Golden Boy". It was bought from a friend that bought it from a store that had been in a fire.  The cases would stick in the chamber after firing. Henry sent us a box and FREE shipping. Got it back 3 weeks later fixed with all new internals and nice polished chamber. NEVER had an issue since.    Good luck on your Henry purchase. I think you will be very happy.

I owned an SCCY Gen 1. My biggest problem wit it was the safety kept coming on when shooting it.  They fixed that problem with the Gen 2's.  I will have to admit that the SCCY was smoother in operation than the P11 I owned, it was stainless and the feed ramp was nice and smooth. The P11 was "rougher" in fit and finish but it worked fine too. If I were to do it again I'd get the P11. At lest you can buy after market parts for it like "jgradyc" said.

I'd look for a Remingitn 870, Winchester SXP (or 1200/1300) or Mossberg 500. I'd also go with at least a 26" barrel if you ever want to use it for any sporting shoots or hunts. I personally find a 28" barrel to be the best all around length. I know a shorter barrel is easier to handle in a defence situation. But you thank yourself later when you don't have to buy another barrel.   I would also find one with interchangable choke tubes. Most ALL newer shotguns have this. This way you can use a Cylinder bore choke for home defence (slugs) and others for sporting. I've found you can do all you need with 4 chokes (Full, Modified, Improved Cylinder, and Cylinder)   Hope this info helps.

I have a 2007 Tacoma with a v6 4.0ltr engine. I change mine every 5k. I only have 47k miles on it so far. I use regular oil. 

If it's for sel defence I'd recommend sticking to one platform in Calibur and Pistol. So for me it's Glock Compacts and 9mm.   I keep 9mm and 40 calibur handy. I don't hoard it. I shoot my ammo and keep just enough to make do if I need too. The chance you'll ever get off the 500+rounds is slim. If you do, well the bad guys suck at being bad.

PM inbound 

Made between 1978-1979   The -4 was the last variant to have a pinned barrel.    Hope this helps.

Nope, but my friend bought one brand new. Dry fired it once and it locked up. The slide would NOT open. Beretta sent him a whole new gun. Paid shipping both ways. Last time asked him, he hadn't had any more issues with it.

Get the RWS...it is a better rifle. I have owned 3 Gamos rifles. Triggers were not good at all. HEAVY and had a mile of take up.

here is a good chart from Beeman on Airguns and need power to kill game. I should also mention that if you do chroy you pellet gun with lead conventional pellets You'll not see 1000fps as the 34 claims. You will need to shoot super light alloy pellets to get 1000fps. And they almost all ways don't shoot well enough to use past 20 yard in anything over 600fps. Don't waste your money.

.177 is my vote. I've owned many air rifles and find that in .22 you will need to know your trajectory. You will literally need to map your trajectory with the .22 every 10 yard increments. With the .177 you still need to know your trajectory but it isn't as crucial at longer distances as the .22. Yes, .177 will kill all the stuff you are shooting to 50 yards or more. With squirrels the farther away they are the more you NEED to hit the head (just below the ear is perfect) USE GOOD PELLETS -ALWAYS- Walmart does NOT carry good pellets. I suggest JSB Exact in 8.44gr or Crosman Premier Lights (7.9gr) to start. Airguns are ammo SENSITIVE, you WILL need to find the best for your rifle. The above pellets I mentioned are a good start and should shoot at least well. If you must find a cheap local pellet that will work ok, Try the walmart Crosman HP. i'm stressing good pellets because pellet uniformity and consistance is the key here. Also the heavier the pellet the harder it is on the mainspring. Never dryfire a spring gun (if you do it once you'll be ok, but at some point it will break). Cleaning the barrel is a BAD idea unless accuracy falls off and it NEEDS to be cleaned. Airgun barrels shoot BETTER when they are fouled to an extent. When switching pellets by make or grain, you will need to shoot 20-50 shots before you attempt to group or zero. Never EVER oil the inside of air rifle barrel. it takes a good while to burn off the oil in the barrel. In this time accuracy is nonexistent. Remember this with spring guns. A LIGHT hold and grip will produce better groups. If you rest the rifle use a SOFT rest likes a pillow or folded shirt the harder the rest the worse it shoots. Trigger control is CRUCIAL to accuracy. Any jerking of the trigger will result in poor shot placement. Hope this helps. Most people that jump into spring powered airguns have to find this info out the hard way. And alot of time and shooting is need to learn these "tips". Here are a few of my Airgun I owned. I don't shoot much airguns these days. Still wish i had a few of these. AirForce Talon SS Custon Crosman RWS 97