I_Like_Pie

That sounds like a classic extractor problem.   After firing the bolt cycles back.  The cartridge hits the ejector and is naturally pushed away from the bolt. The extractor loses purchase instead of acting as the pivot point, and causes a jamb.   That extractor needs to really dig into that lip.  A volquartsen or modification of the factory one will work...there used to be a guide on rimfire central a decade or so ago. It may still be there.

They are tiny little guns. Very cool.  If I had my choice between that and the 77/44....I would have to go with the 44.

    You can find your long lost knife and it will immediately be a great companion again. As it did before it went astray. ...a woman.  Well.  Not so much.   That has all the makings of a really crappy country song.

A whistle has been one of the more useful items I have in my man purse.  

    I won't beat around the bush.  I find most of them to be completely off the deep end of sanity. Some of them are great, but man...most are nuts,.

  It is startling if you aren't used to seeing such a thing...   But....that is how these products are tested.  No big deal.   Remember we process like a bazillion hogs a year in a much worse way than this one passing on a table for medical research.

I have quite a bit of time spent working over the Springfield 87 guns...they are practically the same thing.  They are good guns when they are in proper repair, but kinda a pain when parts aren't lined up right.   -The new, dirty ammo spits out of every part of these guns -The loading mechanism is way more complicated than it should be     The two things that I figured out is that 1) there is a clip type spring that has to be installed perfectly and not bent or you will have feeding problems. 2)there is a metal plate that can be bent to adjust the angle of attack when the cartridge leaves the tube and approaches the loading gate.     Don't let this scare you...when they work - they work perfectly for tens of thousands of rounds (practically forever) with NO issues. If you can try it out first you are golden if it goes though 2 or 3 mags without problems. To clean it...take the wood and spray the metal off with brake cleaner...then lube and put back together.     They are pretty darn neat guns...they shoot incredibly well and if the price is right I would buy it.

Just got through a complete takedown of both the .380 and the Practical/Tactical 45.   The 380 is very nice actually.  I would seriously reserve judgement until you play with one.  It looks like there are a couple of minor differences on the inside.  It has a coil spring to push the slide release instead of the long/curled wire on the other glocks. and it looks like the slide has some minor differences.  I kind of like it, but it would not make me sell my LCP.   The .45 still has a really big grip like the other big guns, but the slide appears to be the same width of the 9mm guns.  it felt really nice and had a 13+1 capacity.     I wouldn't be embarrassed to carry either one.

I have done many rust blue jobs.  Get the Laurel Mountain Browning solution and use it.  By far the easiest and the results are outstanding....Here is my tutorial  CLICK HERE

Nightrunner is spot on.  All the winers are not getting it.   This thing with an aftermarket 10mm barrel will be THE hotrod, high power semi automatic pistol.  Hands down what the hog hunters have been dreaming about to have as a sidearm. Glock has been making a factory stock barrel this long to retrofit to a model 20 for some time now...this will make it complete.

I have been using a cheap brinkman propane for several years and love it.....will never ever go back to using charcoal again after being able to tell no difference at all with ribs and chicken.  May make a slight difference in shoulder or brisket, but not enough to outweigh the extra work.

    I agree.  The original commercial with JCVD is amazing.  If everyone hasn't noticed yet - those 18 wheelers were driving in reverse

I think I am stockpiled with a little under 3 cubic feet of lead now....I kid you not that this doesn't look like much but it weighs about as much as my car. That's a lot of shooting!!!  Read the writing on the wall long ago.       The odd thing I am starting to see is the use of tin or zinc being talked about as an alternative.....heck they will screw you up pretty bad as well if you chew on it all day long.

The best news is that you have an awesome.wife!   Count your blessings my friend....you did well.    

  Quite true....I believe I paid $50 apiece for a box full of German Puma Hunter's pals in the late 80's when they were TKW was moving from the little cabin to the bigger store down the street.    I think even the one I got out and have been using for the past 25 years is going for 3x that amount

LOL - A nerve.  I think I touched one.       My point is that there is a certain point of diminishing returns with actual blade performance vs price. around $100 is about that sweet spot.  $40 -$50 will get you a good steel with no frills.     In the above counterpoints with guns about $500 is the equivalent sweet spot ...With cars you could argue that is $30,000 ...With houses it is around $200,000 much more than that you aren't getting more performance - but lots more lipstick.     In saying quality costs money....yes, but quality and cost are NOT always proportinate to performance. ...a carbon mora costs $7 for example.

Anything wrong with a used ebay US made 440HC Buck prince for $30 or a good 3" fixed blade? Or - gasp - a Leatherman tool.   I don't understand these $100 pocked knives...then again a fool and his money are soon parted.

    Shop around the Christmas specials....I remember seeing them for $169 last year.

All I know is...every bit as good as the 500.   The safety on mine is the stiffest on any gun I have owned.   Will have to fix that.

    If you have a Winchester 12 that you got for $150 - You have nothing at all to worry about.  It can only go up in value pretty much no matter what you do to it.   .....Actually you may be VERY surprised what one with a good reblue job and good refinish will fetch.

I have about 20 handloading manuals in my shop that all have a rifle section for .357.  Some of them dating back to 1947. Glad that you learned something new...it is a very versatile cartridge.   Let me help -  Lyman's 47th page 317 Lyman's 48th page 262 Nosler #3 page 323 Hodgdon number 26 page 418     All have a rifle section with a .357 entry specifically for rifles.     I guess then I am stumped then.  Didn't you mean that the difference between your 30/30 and .357 is 150 fps and that difference is  a primary factor (velocity) for you deciding that .357 isn't on par with your proffered 30/30 load.     By the way I load my 30/30 with cast loads at 1000fps with bullseye and also 30 carbine bullets every now and then touching 3000fps. Velocity isn't everything. 

  You are concerned about 150 fps being the line between good and bad?  In 30/30 wouldn't that be the difference between a 25 or 125 shot.     I have taken many deer reliably with arrows going not much faster than 150 fps.   Shot placement is what matters in every case.       It has been very well know for DECADES that 30/30 is within reach of a .357 handload out of a rifle.  As mentioned above - a deer don't care.  There are some arguments that the unexpanded diameter and TKO factor give it somewhat of an edge.

From a production standpoint.  They are not common, but they are really not rare either .  Lot of them out there, but nobody wants to sell theirs.  They are going up in price generally because 1) MK II are more desirable than the MK III guns and 2) They stopped making them some time ago.

Man those DRT guys in that video  are certain that it is the bullets, and not good shooting that are dropping those bulls.   Placement is everything.

doesn't take much tree to ruin your day.   I can just see the James Dean comparisons start on the newswires...