tercel89

WOW ! HAHAHAHA I think that will cause "other things" to hurt rather than my back LOL

I had it's brother the Cougar. Both have the rotating barrel action. make sure to oil the slide  rails but use grease on the rotating barrel and barrel lug piece. The rotating barrel action needs good lubrication and grease tends to stay on there better. They are neat ! In fact I made a thread on here about .45's that you wished you never got rid of and that was mine. Enjoy the PX4

   I have the seat that way from when i was letting my son ride it. I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible but just tryng to make it more upright. I know I am going to still be leaning forward but I want to do it as less as possible.

WOW that pretty neat. I just hope I can find an adapter stem that is about twice as tall as the one the guy uses in that video . Thanks Lumber_Jack :up:

This is what I do when one of our vehicle's radiators go down.  Go buy you a radiator that fits. I got one at Autozone cheap plain and simple. When installing it,  all you do is mount it to the truck and hook it up to the two water hoses . Dont hook up the Transission lines. Buy a seperate transmission cooler (around $66-$89)  and install the transmission lines to the cooler. This way the transmission fluid is no longer running through the radiator. This way the transmission runs cooler and if the radiatior ever ruptures or fails , you wont get antifreeze inside your engine oil. Also known as the "strawberry milkshake". This seperates your radiator and transmission completly. And all hook-ups use plain simple clamps . There is no adapters needed .  I do this on all my vehicles.

I've neen riding since I was 21 as far as long distance bikes are concerned. I'm now in my 40's and I bought an upright style bike. But I am wanting to make my older Trek from 1995 more upright also . Have any of you riders ever took a road race bike and added an extended stem post to make the handlebars more higher ? If so what kind did you get and what were the results ? This is the bike I'm gonna do this on . A 20 year old Trek in mint condition . [url=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/tercel89/media/trek_zpsqeakkvtj.jpg.html][/URL]

 Thanks for doing that. I guess I'll just have to see one and handle it in person when the 43's make it to the stores. Then wait to see if any bugs pop up in them .

To me the magazine release button looks bigger than the magazine release button on the regular Gen 3 guns. Is this correct ? If so then that sucks to me. I had a Gen 4 gun and those huge magazine buttons were one of the reasons I got rid of the Gen 4 . Anyone know if the mag button is bigger than Gen 3 ?

I say the M&P . Like TGO David said above , spare parts for the XD pistols can be VERY hard to get.  With the M&P's you have easy access to parts , and all other things. The main two  reasons I like the M&P over the XD is availability of spare parts and that the M&P doesnt have the darn grip-safety. When or if your grip is ever bad , you wont be able to fire the XD but the M&P will shot anyway you hold it .  I say get the M&P :up:

   That is an awesome and very understandable explanation , Thanks :up:

Oops , i may have answered my own question in the last post after looking at your post. So is it that  the slightly bigger lead bullet will grab a hold of the barrels lands and grooves ?

Great information everyone , I am really learning a lot. Why is that you use an oversize bullet when using lead ? Are you wanting the bullet to grab or sink into the rifing's lands and grooves more ?

What is the difference ? From what I undertsand , .355 is for 9mm and .356 is for .38 super and ???? I read that some use .356 for 9mm cast bullets. Please fill me in in all this . I am loading 9mm and used .355 on my first batch. Now that I am going to buy more I noticed the .355 and the .356.  

my first rule is not to be naked  when either cooking bacon or reloading :rofl:  but seriously , I try and wait until the kids have left for school and my wife is at work. That way i have NO INTERUPTIONS. That is my biggest thing. I use a regular powder measure and charge each cartridge individually. Last week I got interupted by my little girl then my wife . I came back to my table and accidently loaded a brass case that already had a charge in it. I always load 50 cases at a time then go back and look inside before I put in my bullets so this is what saved my rear-end . So for me it's no interuptions. I haven't noticed any large static build-up while reloading but I am sure it is still there. I always kinda worry about installing primers on my hand primer so I face it away from me towards a wall and I always wear glasses.

Hows the quality of it ? Worth the price ?

   Oh I know it's visible , I was never thinking of it as a form of storage. I was thinking of it as a form of a place to put a gun when I dont want to carry it on my belt and not have it flopping around in the seat . The main thing I was thinking of it for was that my wife and me always take long rides on our days off. It's kinda like our little thing we do. We go off riding down old back roads and end up driving around 200 miles or sometimes more on each trip. We spend a lot of time sight seeing and driving so to me this would be kinda neat. Then whenever we get out somewhere I could just pop it in my holster. Another reason was that , Lord forbid , if we ever wreck the car very bad , the gun would be more secure in something like that rather than a console or door pocket or so .

Anyone here ever tried Gum Creek holster mounts ? I thought a while back about mounting my own rig for carrying something when I don't want it strapped to me but I dont want it flopping around in the car. I just dont want to drill holes nor use velcro , or magnets or anything like that. Gum Creek looks pretty neat . Any you guys/gals had any experience with one ?

Good Lord that was fast ! Awesome !

I'll sit back and give the new Glock a year or so before I spend any money on one.  If there are any bugs in them  , hopefully they will get them out by then.  I just want it to be as reliable as the 17 and 30 :up:

   yes I do that ! So that I can look down inside all 50 f them before i put in my bullets

 Would that be from the case having a somewhat empty space inside it between the powder and the bullet ?

 That is exactly what i do on mine. I am loading my pistol rounds just enough to make the gun function and cycle the slide . Just so my son and me can have fun with. I'm doing 4.8gr with Power Pistol which fills half the case and it shows that I can go all the way to 6.7 . So if I went over some I think I would noticed the brass being full when I go back and look at them . I use a single stage press and load them 50 at a time and have them all laid out in a cartridge tray. I always go back and look inside them real carefully

I have a single stage press and use a regular Hornady Powder measure. I can only load one piece of brass with powder at a time. I have been interupted by my kids and my wife a few times and then I accidently put a double load of powder in a piece of brass. Luckily I always go back and look down at all my brass and see if the level of the powder is the same as the others. I only load 50 rds at a time. I saw the deep level of powder in one piece of brass and thank God I caught it and dumped it.  But my question is how do you guys or other people accidently double charge brass ? And can it occur in one of those fancy progresive presses ? I am just trying to make sure of stuff to watch out for .

Holy cow guys , don't give them any ideas :ugh:

Here's a .45acp round in my Glock 30 Gen 2.5 . There is a lot of unsupported case that is exposed. I know that .45acp doesn't have as much pressure as the .40S&W but I have more case support in my Glock 22 than this Glock 30 . You think shooting reloads in this is ok ? [URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/tercel89/media/case%20support_zpsix5am8om.jpg.html][/URL]