tercel89

I had it's bigger all metal brother the Cougar. It is very soft shooting and to me was the softest shooting 9mm pistol I ever shot. Smooth as glass operation. Just keep oil on the slide rails and use a grease on the rotating barrel lug.

We have some nice members here . I bought a pistol from KahrMan and he is a nice dude !

It all boils down to this: The depuites or officers or troopers , whatever , should practice at work and then when at home , just unload their pistol , then practice while sitting on the couch or outside or wherever. Before I used a Glock at my job , I used a Ruger P-series which is DA/SA and my transition to the Glock 22 was very easy. I took the Glock 22 apart and understood how it worked and researched it on my own and it was very clear to me . I did the same with the Ruger P94 that I carried before the Glock 22. That was in 1997 which was way before the internet and computers were all available to me . Now days there is Youtube and such which will provide good information on how certain guns will work .  I know that when you are at home , you aren't getting paid and not "on the clock" , but if your life depends on your skill and your gear , then for the love of God , PRACTICE,  whether it is on the clock or not . It worked for me. You just got to get it in your head that the trigger area and the muzzle are DANGEROUS even when unloaded. I am OCD so that really helps LOL .

   I saw Tite Group on my Hornady reloading chart and you are correct. Most of Tite Group doesnt seem to have much room between hot and light

   Thats cool. I just happen to have  Power Pistol in my Powder measure . So far that stuff seems to have a nice big "curve" or area to experiement on like 9mm. I can start real low and have lots of room to move up until I hit the red area.  I just always heard that the .40S&W had to be loaded or was made to be loaded really hot . I didn't know you could make them light and still have them cycle to the slide reliably . But I am new like i said :pleased:

Is there a way or such a thing to load the .40S&W cartridge in a "light" load or "bunny fart" load for light plinking ? I always hear how the .40S&W is such a high pressure load and there is little wiggle room. Is this cartridge really high-pressure ? I know it does have some snappyness thats for sure.  I am still new to reloading and so far have been loading .45ACP  and 9mm with good sucess.  This was just on my mind and I thought I'd ask.

Good Lord :rofl: I hate to make fun of someone but damn this is or SHOULD be common sense. Just like Garufa said in the second post , are they running around with their fingers in the trigger guards ?

The reloads I did are 115 gr Hornady FMJ . I have some 115 Gr X-Treme plated round nose  bullets that I will try next .

   THIS is great advice and great information !

   I have heard about their chambers being kinda short and tight . So far my cartridges are feeding pretty good. I am seating and crimping them by using a factory target round as a model .

   I agree with this !!!!!

 So far so good with my reloads. My reloads that I make are 115 grains and it shoots them fine. But the next pack of bullets I get will be a heavier 9mm.

   It looks as if the area where the barrel comes out through the slide would have a lot of wiggle room , and maybe too much wiggle room since the diameter of the 9mm is smaller than the 40 .Which is why  Lone Wolf's conversion barrel is so thick . But thats great to know that the 34 works when dropped into a 35 :up:  .  I wonder if the striker hits the Primer a little to one side more than the other ?

   A Glock 21 Generation 2 that looked like it just came from the factory . I like the older Gen 2 Glocks without the finger grooves and WITH the bottom cut-out portion on the grip so you can strip out a mag in a hurry . Glock doesnt make the frames with these features anymore.  I told my wife that I was  going fishing for a few hours that day :cool:

  I just got a picture of it posted up here. They dont have the big wolf on top anymore. Now they have a small picture of a wolf and the model number both on the left side of the barrel's chamber that is hidden by the left side of the gun's slide.

   From other  members on here . There are always great members on here that live where you are and they always seem to have what I'm looking for and at good prices. Most great deals are in the East Tn area . Some are in Middle Tn area . and in West Tn there is hardly any activity on here that I know of except for a few good members . No offense to West Tn but I hardly hear from or see anyone in West Tn except a few in the Memphis area . But all in all it's mostly in East Tn that have the good stuff and prices .

I got a Lone Wolf Barrel for my Glock 22. A conversion barrel to let me shoot 9mm in it. So far it shoots my reloads nicely . Ejection and extraction is very nice and reliable. All I did was take out my stock .40 barrel and drop in the 40-9 conversion barrel. I am using all stock Glock 22 .40 factory parts other than the magazine which is a G17 mag. My question is have any of you ever went ahead and changed out the .40 extractor and replaced it with a 9mm extractor ? If so did you NEED to or was it for piece of mind ? I checked the ejector and the 9mm cartridges seem to line up just fine with it so no problem there. Maybe I am just looking into things too much but with all my stock G22 parts , this barrel is awesome :up: I have only fired it for reliably purposes so far . I will check accuracy later . Anyone have any information on if they ever had to change out other things as far as extractors ? [URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/tercel89/media/lonewolf_zpsn8yinlyg.jpg.html][/URL]

 ALWAYS and I swear ALWAYS in east Tennessee . I have missed a nice few 1911's and some Glock 30's . I foolishly made a run from here in North Tn at the stateline all the way to Chattanooga for a nice deal on a 45. My truck gets 18 MPG and I should have had a few refueling tanker jets fly along above me :rofl: but it was fun and I got my toy and still have it today :up:

Great information guys thanks. I had a SP101 a year ago and traded it off. So now I am reloading ammo so I figure that I could really have fun with one now. So I may try and sell my Bushmaster AR15 and try and fund a Ruger SP101 and maybe a GP100. I may get one used so I am just wondering what to check for and I have always wondered how the timing was checked.  I got my Bushmaster AR15 back after the Clinton ban was done and maybe put 3 mags through it at the most. The rest of the time its been stored away. I figure that I'll get way more use and fun from two revolvers rather than an AR15.

I may have asked this before but I didn't find it on a search. What is the best way to check the timing on a revolver ?  And if a revolver is out of timing , how is it fixed ?    What causes this condition ? The type of revolver I am asking about is a double action type such as a Ruger GP100 or Ruger SP101 .  Any information is appreciated .

The SR22 seems to have metal rails too after watching a video of a detail strip on it.

 I beleive the PF9 has metal rails that are inbedded into the polymer frame like Glocks have. My brother had that pistol a few years back.

The Ruger P95 and P97 are the only ones I can think of . The HS2000/XD series have a metal rail up front and then a polymer rail in the rear . I was messing with my P95 and this got me to thinking of it. I know these P-series polymer guns are on the blocky/fat side but they sure are fun to mess with . My P95 has eaten all of my 9mm reloads without a hicup. It has even eaten some that my M&P Shield wouldn't cycle nor feed.

Are there any other guns out there with non-metal rails  like the Ruger P95 and P97 have ? They both have fiberglass reinforced rails that are just extentions of the fiberglass/polymer frame . Mine have held up great and show no wear even after several years .  I was just wondering what other guns are out there that have polymer slide rails ?

"They said I would have to pay to send it in and it would count as one of the three lifetime services but I would have to pay for any repairs"    What the heck did S&W mean by this statement ? "Three Lifetime Services" ?