tercel89

For the love of sweet God don't start a panic buy , or at least please don't help the morons start hoarding. And I mean this in an good way . I loved .22LR and my son had fun with it . But when the "dodo" hit the fan last time and the .22LR went sky rocket high , we just sold our .22LR firearms because of morons hoarding it and selling ti twice and three times as much . I now reload and am teaching him how to do it .

see above

Goto General chat and you will see my post . I posted it in the wrong place

My press is very secure. It's bolted to a solid wood table. I am just too afraid of taking any material off of the dies or altering them. I am going to try the Hornady 3 die set and then decide which to keep.

I have a Lee 2 Die set right now in .45 ACP . The expander die is a "powder through" die which makes a hard "jerk" or bump when you extract the brass from it . This "jerk" is supposed to shake any residual powder left inside the die that may stick to the sides. This jerk or bump ends up shaking my whole press and it is just plain annoying. Plus I don't use the powder through feature of this Die anyways . I am thinking of getting a Hornady 3 Die set and try it . My brother has that set and likes it . How has it been with you guys ? What do you guys think of Hornady's Dies versus the Lee ?

I just took my Lee dies apart and put some Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube on them. Man they run like butter now . Smooth and no sticking. This stuff dries and still lubricates. I will swear by this stuff from now on.

I got it fixed . Thanks guys ! Also I guess I was frustrated and didn't see in the manual about how it says to push the decapping pin flush to the top clamping bolt (collet) .

I took apart my Lee resizing and decapping die ( 9mm pistol ) apart to clean and lubricate it. When reassembling it , is there a certain amount of length that I need to have the "de-priming pin" hanging out of the bottom of the die ? Any help is appreciated . I cant seem to find any information on Lee's website nor my owners manual .

Yeah Guns and Leather at both of their locations . I have bought several CZ's there in the past . Awesome people and family owned.

What did you do to fix it ? I was having troubles with my .45acp cases a few months ago so I stopped for a while. I haventered started again but I think I had cleaned my dies to clean causing the brass to stick . I'm gonna put some hornady one shot in the die and try that

Hey guys , I just found these ,,,, They are battery post shims. Looks like they will fix this problem . Ill post this and it may help others. Like I said before , I fix major things but it seems the smallest things just get me LOL

I can't do that . The problem is that the stock/factory clamps are as tight as it can be and it still cant grip the post . So that is why I was trying yo fill the gap around the battery post. Just trying to avoid jimmy rigging it with aluminum foil to fill the small gap around the battery post and clamp.

LOL that was what I was going to do but you know how it is when you have kids. I just didn't want to give him a jimmy rigged car .

Guys/Gals , sorry to bother you all but I am having a very SIMPLE problem. I am a pretty good mechanic (shade tree LOL ) but here goes : We just gave my 18 year old son our older car for his graduation. It needed a battery. The proper fitting battery has always been kinda loose in the positive connector. I just got a new battery for it. It will get juice to the system and all but I can wiggle the connector around and spin it while the bolt is all tight and snug. The stock connector just wont tighten fully. I almost got a bunch of Aluminum foil and wrapped the battery post to take up the slack but I wont since this is my sons first car. Is there any "spacers" that can go around the post to make it tighter ? Or should I just go ahead and get a new "battery connector" and splice it into my existing battery cable ? Again I am a pretty good mechanic but I figured that I would ask you guys in case some random magic invention came out for this predicament . Thanks for any information.

Glock 26 all the way . The 26 is fat and thick but it will shoot forever with hardly any replacement parts. It will accept the 19 , 17 , 34 , and other high capacity mags in 9mm. Bottom line is the 26 is tried and true and has an awesome track record . I had a Shield in 9mm. It was great. No problems. I only sold it to get the Glock 43 . The Shield is great like I said but to detail strip it you have to remove the rear sight which holds the firing pin safety. I have a "qwerk" to where I want a very simple gun to where I can detail strip it with simple things. I can detail strip my Glock in an emergency with just a nail or a stick . The Sheild requires a roll pin punch and an allen wrench. Just letting you know my experiences .

Some people may say I am OCD but I think the M&P would be perfect if it would drop the roll-pins for solid pins , create a slide that doesn't have to have a rear sight to "hold down" the firing pin safety plunger , and make the frame without such a large "take down" lever . This all with the .45 cartridge and man what a gun ! And as Ten Bears says " that is all I have to say"

Yeah but if they listed any parts that failed or that they replaced anything than that will help others .

Hey thanks for sharing that ! I am a big Glock fan and this will be very helpful information. I know that Glock's will fail sometimes and when they do it's good to know what all happened. Did Glock tell you in any detail of what they did or replaced ?

What was wrong with it ? And what model was it ?

S&W has outdone Glock for sure with this one. Glock's single stack 45 the , 36 , is 1.10 inch wide . The Shield is 1.05 counting the slide stop . The Glock 36 just still seems a lot fatter. This will be a tough decision between the two if I have to decide between them. I have never had a 36 but this Shield 45 looks pretty good.

I bet your more happy than a pig in fresh mud , I know you love those M&P's .

I guess I need to shut up and get to shooting the darn thing LOL .

I just hope my new 21 "USA non-Tenifer" will resist rust as good as my Gen 2 and Gen 3 .

I just bought a new Glock 21 . I understand that Glock is made here and Austria. And the ones here are made to Austria's orders. But it sure is hard looking at "USA" stamped on my G21 Gen 4. I am just old school Glock and want my pistols made where they originated. I looked other places but all new ones at the prices I were looking at were all made in USA. Do any of you guys not like the USA stamp on your Glocks ?