G27

Well, to be fair, it's tough to discuss the average Vandy football fan as this is their typical turnout:

+1 No dinner tonight, drove straight through to Navarre Beach for a week of doing nothing, sitting by the beach listening to the waves whilst drinking cheap beer for supper...

But most will make more in a single season than the average idiot will in 10 years...

For portable, tri-fuel is the way to go, imo. For fixed install, a NG unit is nice, but Generac is junk. Get a B&S at a minimum.

Not going to argue akademiks with a Vandy man, but any list that has Ole Miss #2 is suspect... Just sayin'... SEC Coaches NCAA APR Rankings - Team Speed Kills

I'm not a smart man, but we do hold a 57-19-4 advantage in fewtbawl, so I've got that going for me...

Heading to the beach for a week so I sucked down a few Miller Lites I bought for the beach, then moved to some Buffalo Trace single barrel. Shocking, I know...

I'm in again! It was so nice to read the stories of the folks we helped last year. This is one of the things that makes TGO really special, and it even makes tolerating Bronker very slightly easier.

Pull the old speaker first to insure it's not a powered driver - some modern factory car systems have self powered speakers (small amps mounted directly to he driver assembly). Assuming it's a standard passive driver, pull it and take it with and try some out @ BB or WM. You can easily find something to replace it for $75, there's even some decent sounding stuff in that price range.

Turns out I was mistakenly reading the diff between a hot leg and a switched leg (for the disposal). I know just enough about electricity to bring down the entire east coast...

Hrmm, very strange - when the breaker is turned off, I'm still getting a 40vac reading on the line on my DMM (when it's on, I get the full 120vac).

Replaced both the GFCI and the breaker to be sure, no go. Did just find that the disposal and dishwasher are on the same circuit and are working fine. Now I have to try to pull the outlet from underneath the sink to see if something has come loose...

We just recently lost power to an entire circuit of outlets (seven outlets, no lights) in our five year old house. I found the last one in the chain and disconnected them one by one tracing the circuit back via an external wire and the continuity setting on my DMM - there are six standard outlets with a GFCI outlet being the first (as far back as I can trace it, that is) in the circuit. After the GFCI I have no idea where the circuit may go, I assume back to the breaker panel as every other outlet, light, etc is accounted for on other circuits. Unfortunately, the GFCI is at the front door entry way, so it is surrounded on three sides by brick and the the fourth side abuts the front door, so getting to the wiring behind the box to trace it is nearly impossible. At this point, I think there's an open in the wiring between the breaker (which is new and tests fine) and the GFCI outlet (which is also new). What do you, as electricians, do to find an open to repair such an event? Is there some sort of tracing rig that will work on a non-energized (open) circuit to help trace the wire in the wall? Any help appreciated, thanks in advance...

Very nice, Patrick! You have good taste.

Nice, Raoul!

No, the M1 Garand is 30.06, the M1 Carbine is .30 Carbine.

Talk about marxism run amuck...

I would have beat him by 20. Oh, you meant...

$220 for an M1? Yes, please!

Fantastic news, Mike - really glad you kept you r chin up and focused on what was important through all of this, and you did it the right way. Good vibes coming your way from the western part of the state...

Not so much, especially with a head index of >110F.

Ugh - zero chance I'm shooting indoors with no AC. Sad, used to be a great place.

Based on everything I've been hearing about RUSA lately, I'm wondering if there isn't somewhere else we should look into. I'm def not shooting indoors with no AC.

You ought to like this one as well: