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Everything posted by atlas3025
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You just cut a notch in the side of the uzi mag so that an AR mag catch will latch into it. Take out your mag catch and run the uzi mag up into the magwell (with mag block installed) until it tops out on the ejector hook (part of the mag block), then you can mark on the magazine through the hole in the side of the lower where the mag catch would be. Then take the magazine back out and use a dremmel to open up a hole where you marked.
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I was up in SE KY this weekend on a camping trip when we stopped for gas. A fella shambled up to me from the station and said he was a veteran, and hungry and broke (he didn't look too hungry as he was bigger than I am) and asked if I could help. I reached into the truck and got him an old MRE that I was taking as backup food. When I handed it to him, he asked what it was (he was about 40 years old). I told him it was food and to enjoy. He looked disappointed.
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The GP 100 looks better IMO. GP SP
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Well, my poor attention to detail while reloading caught up with me this weekend. I had a squib in my suppressed blackout--that somehow cycled the action! I have had one of these before where there was no powder charge, only primer, that resulted in a bullet stuck near the end of the barrel, but the gun didn't cycle that time. This time, the gun did cycle and I was caught up in the moment, and kept firing. I didn't even notice at the time. I did notice that my POI shifted and I wasn't hitting the steel plate at 50 yards anymore. A few minutes later when I took the suppressor off, I noticed it was very hard to unthread from the gun. After some struggling, it came off. I looked at the threads on my barrel and noticed a crack going all the way into the bore. It was then I figured out what had happened. Apparently the squib bullet had made it almost out of the barrel, and so the next collided with it just short of the muzzle. The can appears to be no worse for wear, but my barrel is scrapped. It was a 10 inch AAC 1:8 barrel. I will try to post a pic later. The upside is that I may have found a decent barrel on the cheap to replace it with. http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=179&t=80986 I don't know much about them, but figure for the price there is little risk. I think I paid $135 shipped. I will post up results when I get it in and do some range testing.
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The first one was lacking in may ways, but with a small budget, I suspect it is really hard to do a great job with such a difficult to read book. Having said that, I did enjoy the first one. My wife, who has not read the book, really like part 1, which I thought was odd. They had to scrap the entire cast and much of the production crew for Part II, but the trailer looks really good. I had an emotional response during it. It opens this weekend. The trailer is linked below.
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I don't see that any have been posted...unless that is your point.
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http://www.wtae.com/...jc/-/index.html I am sad to say that before I even clicked the link, I had accurately profiled the attacker and victim.
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Even now, prices on guns and parts aren't really that high. Hell, you can buy or build an AR now for about $600. You just have to be willing to wait. Ammo has gone up a bit, but I don't look for it to come down much. No matter who is elected, inflation is going to drive prices up. All that QE money has already been printed, regardless of the outcome in November..
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Though it is out of your listed price range, I would still like to make my obligatory recommendation of the SCAR 17. You MAY be able to find a used one for $2kish. It's light, runs like a singer sewing machine, and is VERY accurate. It was hard to find mags for them for a while, but mags are out there now. Aside from that, I have had a full length M1A and a SOCOM 16. They were both great rifles, but heavy. The full size was a very accurate gun too. It would shoot 1 MOA with Federal GMM 168's all day, but didn't do so well with other factory loads. The SCAR seems to group everything tight, even TULA! The SOCOM was probably a 2 MOA gun, and though shorter than the full size, just as heavy. As much as I loved the M1A's however, I think I would try an AR style before I bought another one. A modern design like a SCAR or AR has SOO much going for it when it comes to accessories and optics mounting options. The M1A stock is garbage when if you want to use a scope. You have to put a big cheek rest on the stock to even get close to having a cheekweld. And then you can't get alighned on your iron sights if you want to use them without removing it. There are lots of after market stocks out there that work better, but they are pricey. You will get up to the $2k mark (gun included) if you go with a Troy, Sage, or VLTOR stock. I had a Troy, and it solved ALL the alignment problems, and made the gun (used it on both full size and socom) much more "modern", but it also made the gun weigh 14lbs loaded. No thanks. I have heard GREAT things about FNAR's, but they are ugly. If the SCAR was not an option, I would probably be using a DPMS AR style...but could be tempted by the Keltec RFB as well. I fondled one at the most recent Knoxville Gun Show...it is a nice design (bullpup), but I haven't read very many range reports. FALS are beloved by many as well. So many great 308's out there....
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Thanks to both of you for the comments! I am just wanting to punch paper with it, and am not too concerned about weight. Or course I don't want it to be needlessly heavy, but this would never be a brush gun. Only lost 100FPS while losing 10 inches of barrel!? WOW...I may have it cut down to 22 or 20 then since I have a 30 cal suppressor coming that I may want to run on it. I haven't got a reloading plan yet. I already have a couple of boxes of Hornady loaded ammo, so I will have 40 pieces of brass from that. I may try some wolf too...hopefully the necks will hold up for a few loads. I don't expect to shoot tons out of it like I would a 223 or 300BLK, but you never know. With those, I like to shoot steel, and sometimes burn through a bunch of ammo. But with shooting paper, will be much more controlled to try and build good groups. I think I will stick with 10 round mags just to keep from getting too blast happy.
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You will not be able to figure out where the blemish is. It will take them a couple of weeks to get it to your FFL, but if you aren't in a tremendous hurry, you will be happy with it. These are as good as any other lower you will find, regardless of the name on it. http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/featured/palmetto-state-armory-blemished-lower-receiver.html Have fun!
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As awful as his whole affair has been, it is still not as embarassing as losing to Kentucky last year. Fire Dooley!
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Well, I don't know what kind of armor a Bradley has, but I don't know how safe I would feel in one with an e-tip equipped Fudd hunting near me. I suspect it would have eat through a half inch plate just as easily.
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Definitely agree on avoiding the Oly. I had short barrel Colt setup I used to run full auto on a registered lower. It was fun at first, but for whatever reason, I just got tired of shooting it. I used the aluminum mag block that goes in from the bottom and modified Uzi mags. It did run great, but I think the reason I got tired of it is because without handloading for it, it was impossible to get a round to stay subsonic through it. I ran my 9mm can on it and it was louder than any of my handguns...not sure why. I switched to 300 BLK for this reason. And it was heavy. Not sure about a carbine length barrel (mine was 9 inch), but selling the thing was like trying to get rid of herpes.
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Unfortuantely, I do not. I dropped the plate off this morning to get the whole welded up. I only use the plate at 100 yards, so I'm not worried about that spot begin softer, should i turn out that way. Hole was uniform all the way through, with a bit of a ridge built up around the entry hole, and the same around the exit. Yeah, I agree there could be many variables. If I didn't want to pay to fix my plate again, I'd set up some experiments!
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So I am getting into this game. I have found a 24" Shilen BB for an AR with a 10 twist. I am thinking the 120 grain bullets are probably best for that rate. Am I wrong? Would something else work better? Is this length appropriate? Any help is appreciated!
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I get that too...but the 155 grain SMK's going faster from the same gun splattered and didn't hurt the steel. I know copper is harder than lead...but I didn't think it was THAT much harder.
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Are those LNIB?
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Episode 3 was much better. Not sure a sniper rifle is necessary to gut shoot somoene at 50 ft, but I guess it is better than a musket.
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I have looked at the Taurus version several times, and my story is the same as Lester's. I have owned other Taurus guns, and have had good experiences with all of them. Having read by so many say that the PT92 by far Taurus' best gun, I figured my experience with one would be even better than the positive experiences I have had with the other Tauruses (Taurii?) I have had (Raging Bull 454, 45 Tracker, 1911, and Millinium). I like that you can go cocked and locked with the PT92 and the newer PT92's have a tac rail as well. But everytime I have run across one at the Gun Show that was priced right, something about the grip panels or finish has always turned me off. Something just always made me "wait and think about it."
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I hope to go on Sunday. I will look like everyone else there. Tall and fat.
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It is an old design, and there are more modern and customizable 9mm's out there, but the Beretta is a terrific pistol. My dad bought an italian model back in the early 80's when I was in middle school. As soon as I turned 18, I bought one of my one (US Model) and had it for many years, shooting a lot of IPSC with it. Frankly, both guns worked wonderfully. Like an idiot, I sold mine about 10 years ago. Then briefly had an INOX that I traded for a carry gun. Though he still lives, my dad has left his in my posession, for which I am greatful. Beretta makes 17 rounds mags for them now too, which are really slick. They don't go way beyond the butt, extending no more than a quarter inch, and the floor plates make them look flush. Yes, they don't have tac rails, but they make mounts for them if you want to mount a flashlight or something. I prefer the look of them without any addons though. The only thing they have going against them is that they can't go cocked and locked, but they are DA/SA, so you aren't left struggling to cock the thing before you shoot it, unless you want to.
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That is pretty awesome Rightwinger. I mean it all makes since, but those etips aren't THAT fast. I think it was a 180 grain bullet. So it would have been in the neighborhood of 3k fps I think. Its just funny that the lighter, faster, SMK 165 doesn't do much more than make a small dent. The etips are HP's too, I think. I know they have a polymer tip.
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Yeah, I realize that it doesn't have to be harder to penetrate. I guess what I should have said is that I was not aware that solid copper bullets are armor piercing. I don't know what else you'd call it. It cut through 3/8 of an inch of AR500 like it was cheese. Those etips supposedly expand well in game too. I don't see how you do both of those things with the same bullet.