GlockSpock

Turns out you can only bundle wireless phones with ATT's "traditional (DSL?)" internet. It is nowhere near as fast as their Uverse. I believe 18Mbps for Uverse would be roughly $41 a month plus a $99 installation fee. That makes the total 12 month cost to $591, and Charters 30Mbps $599.88. I guess it is quite clear. If I want high speed internet, I pay Charter $49.99 a month.    It is sad that there isn't more competition in this market, it is possibly even worse than the wireless market.

I have often wondered how such a thing could be construed. In Cleveland with have Cleveland State Community College as well as Lee University. I live near Lee, and sometimes my wife and I walk down Ocoee Street (in between Lee and Lee's dorms). I conceal while walking there, but I wonder whether that could cause trouble in certain circumstances. Cleveland State also have a city street that goes between several parking lots and the campus. Technically could driving that street and getting pulled over cause problems?   I'm guessing it is probably a "no" in both cases as long as your are a law abiding citizen, but am interested in what others have to say.

I am considering ATT, and at that price I would definitely try it. You could always plug another wireless router into your modem/router combo and use it for WiFi, if that sort of thing floats your boat. I am looking at ATT's options right now, they have something interesting that combines a cell phone and home internet. Depending on pricing, that may be a viable option.

EPB is only available in the SW of Bradley County. Sad but true.

I am afraid that this is probably the same thing I will end up with.       True here. I chatted about 30 minutes hoping that they could cut a deal of some sort, but they didn't seem at all flexible. Either they are calling my bluff or they really cannot do anything. Perhaps my best thing to do is let it expire and then try to signup again a bit later?

I've been paying Charter $29.99 for 15Mbps internet for 6 months. Of course, it was a 6 month promotion when I signed up. Thus, this billing statement they are trying to charge me $18 more a month. I called and canceled, and I have service until January 6th. During the call of course, she kept trying to push bundling things. The "cheapest" bundle was $94 a month. I said no.    I am since looking at other internet options, and it seems ATT is about the only comparability priced competitor in the same speed. But that is, I believe, over fiber optic lines so Motorola cable modem will not work (I purchased it myself). They also have a $99 installation fee. They are currently offering a $100 "card" to offset the price of their modem/router combination. So I'd be looking at roughly $33 a month for a year plus $100 initial fee (which could possibly be waved if I push). $100/12=$8.33 a month. So really that would be closer to $41 a month for a year. For $49 a month through charter, I can get the 30Mbps.    I suppose that the honest fair market value of 15-30Mbps cable internet is roughly $45-$50 a month. If I had been paying that for the previous 6 months I would have just accepted it. However, through their "6 month promotion" pricing, it is very easy to get used to paying that $29.99 a month and then feel gouged when they "adjust" their pricing.    I like internet, I use it for everything. I am just tired of these pricing games that we have to play with providers. I would happily pay $29.99 a month for as long as society stays the way it currently is, but the providers would rather push and pull in order to get more money. Statistically speaking, I wouldn't be surprised if the majority of people "upgrade" to one of the bundled packages at this point. That is what Charter is counting on. But in truth all I want is internet.   So right now I guess I have half a month to think. I'd love to stick with Charter because they are a good service, I am just unhappy with their business. I wish the quasi-monopoly that cable companies have didn't exist. That would be so much better for us, the consumer.   I keep figuring or hoping that perhaps in the next month Charter will have another promotion, but I would probably have to be a "new" customer to take advantage of it.    Anyone have any relevant stories or advice to get the best bang for my buck? I am considering 15Mbps the minimum speed I'd be interested in.

Got mine out today. Pretty unique and I can guarantee it will not be expected. I only hope it is appreciated.

Sidestep: Looks like they are also interested in providing us with Uzi's! It looks like it is currently just the Uzi Pro sold in a pistol form. You know, I've never really been interested in SBR's, but to take an Uzi Pro and turn it into a SBR, that would be great! :up:

I over doubled the height that we had it, ran it all night, and awoke to dry floors! Turns out, if performance stays the same, we are going to love this humidifier! We just need to find some sort of podium/desk/bookcase thing that we can place it on. Preferably it has some sort of plastic/glass/metal surface on top.

I've been using my Pioneer for a few days...I love it! However, I thought I remembered SAK's coming sharper than this one. Perhaps not. It's been a very, very long time!

I am also quite interested in the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Anyone used one of these? It is my understanding that they are great for maintaining a profiled edge, but not so great for actually profiling an edge.

[quote]This is not local by the way. West Coast. So from what I'm getting from you guys its FFL or nothing for out of state?[/quote] 100% Since it is over Armlist, I would consider this your only option for greater insuring that you don't get ripped off: Find a reputable FFL in the area (via the internet). Call him and ask if it is ok if he would do the following for you: Ask him if he will essentially hold onto a firearm someone local to him will bring him. See if he will allow you to verify with him that it is what you are expecting, and see if you can send payment to him. Essentially, see if you can have someone sell it via an FFL as consignment. That's the best idea I have. Otherwise I would be afraid of getting ripped off. Perhaps someone else will have a better idea?

[quote]First I would ask for a lot of picture of the weapon. I always use a USPS M/O you dont have to wait for it to clear. If you worried about the sale have them send it through a FFL dealer.[/quote] I would be sure to ask for some random "specialized" photo. Such as, "Can you send me a photo up close of the grips", or "Can you disassemble the gun and show me a picture of the rifling?". I have done this many times when someone is trying to sell me something. This way you'll know whether they simply pulled photos of the gun from another site/post and are trying to rob you.

[quote]Pay with a USPS money order. Get a pic of the serial # of the firearm before sending (I do this to ensure they have not just copied the pics from somewhere else).[/quote] I would personally be very afraid to try and purchase something via delivery option over something such as Gunlistings or Armslist. Something on TGO, sure! But often times classified sites don't really have a feedback system and are easily duped.

Take someone with you (either or both armed if legally possible), meet in a public area (well lit) area, talk to the person on the phone before you meet them, keep it within state lines (as out of state transfers require an FFL), stay away from the NFA (that rhymes, no further explanation needed), and if it is so cheap than you consider taking off work to buy it before someone else does (it is probably stolen). In all seriousness, I have done many FTF deals for many items (firearm related as well as various other things), I have never not once got burned. Exercise caution and use your instinct, and you should be fine. I also usually like to Google any email addresses/phone numbers that someone gives me in order to lookup whatever I can about the person. Say I am emailing a guy with gunguy123@gmail.com, and I Google "gunguy123@gmail.com, and all I find is bad stuff on some forum talking about how he ripped someone off, perhaps I steer clear of him. Use your brain, use what resources you have (Google for research and a friend for backup) and you don't have (much) to worry about.

@RobertY I am guessing it is pretty similar to this model? http://www.homedepot.com/Sunbeam/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ2al/R-203412043/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=1&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UMYshIPAd8E I think one of the design flaws on my unit (or perhaps it is just an individual dud) is that the fan doe not push the mist up into the air much more than a few feet. I think if the fan was about twice as strong, we wouldn't be experiencing any problems either. But like I said, I will probably place it higher off the ground and try it. If that doesn't work I will try and return it, and may try something like that Sunbeam. @Pain103 The one I have is obviously ultrasonic. It works great, and I love it, as long as we can eliminate the collection of water in the area. We have wood floors in the bedroom, and it appeared as if someone had spilled a glass of water when we got up this morning.

[quote]It's the difference between cool mist and hot mist.[/quote] I suspected that the hot mist ones may do a bit better in this regard, but they are also quite a bit noisier. [quote]One thing you can try is to set the fan (air handler) in your main HVAC unit to "on" rather than "auto".[/quote] Interesting. I'll look into this. How could it be expected to affect your heating bill?

[quote][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I have two smaller ultrasonic units that stay in my kids rooms. They're made by Crane... one's a cow and the other is Pooh. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] They're much quieter, but much lower output. Also somewhat messy to refill, but not as bad as the big one. Both of these sit a couple feet off the floor, mostly to stay out of little hands' reach. The mist does sink to the floor, but I've never noticed significant surface wetting.[/font][/color][/quote] I'm thinking that [u]must[/u] be the problem I'm having. It is probably sitting too close to the ground and the mist is just too thick when it hits the floor. I have a feeling once I set it higher it will be mostly fine. And yeah, I've read all about the possible detrimental side effects of these things. Cleaning them once a week isn't too bad, but I hope once a week will be enough.

[quote]I was a mineral oil addict. I have found; however, that often times water works just as well, as long as your sharpener accepts water as a lubricant. I have a Smiths diamond sharpener and it works well with water. My first preference will always be a good 3 stone system, but they are often expensive. The smiths cost $15 and works almost as well.[/quote] Forgive me. I was talking about mineral oil on the knife as a rust inhibitor/lubricant in place of something such as Rem Oil or CLP. Often times in the past I've placed CLP on my knives. It works very well, I just don't want to eat the stuff. I am thinking I will probably buy a cheap whetstone and give it an extended try. I have an old Case Sodbuster that should be easy to sharpen and should be a good "tester".

[quote][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I have used humidifiers off and on for the past 15 years and never had that problem. Not sure what caused that....[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I have always bought the cheapest ones I could find, hoping that they all worked about the same. Our new central system is so much better than the old one that I don't think I even need one anymore. I think the last one we used was a honeywell, but I haven't ran one in a while.[/font][/color][/quote] Well, I suppose it could be many different things that caused it. However, to me, it appears as if the mist is simply being thrown upwards a bit, and then falling right back down. It looks like it could use a lot more airflow. Perhaps after setting it higher the mist will disperse more. If that doesn't work I might try and put it next to a return vent or possibly place a fan near it aimed upwards.

I purchased a humidifier last night for my wife who suffers from dry skin in the winter. The model I purchased is the [b][url="http://www.amazon.com/Tribest-Humio-Humidifier-HU1020-Compartment/dp/B007H0R04U/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1355146030&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=humio+tr"]Tribest Humio 2[/url][/b]. Well, we ran it last night, and awoke to a rather soaked area of the floor around it. Granted, it suggests using it at least 3' from the ground and it is currently on a stool approximately 1.5', so this may be the main issue and I hope it is. I will be looking for a taller piece of furniture to place it on today. However, I was just wondering if anyone here had went through the same process. Is there perhaps a certain model/type of humidifier that just excels above the rest? I read quite a few reviews on these things and eventually just made a purchase. Right now I'm open to suggestions of any kind, help me out!

[img]http://images.wikia.com/pka/images/e/e9/Dual-AA-12-Shotguns-FPSRussia.jpg[/img] Hope I see some dogs today!?!?

First I'd like to ask for everyones opinions on knife sharpeners. I'd like to purchase a stone/sharpener, and learn how to use it well. I'd like it to be able to put a razor edge on the knives I own, as long as I am doing my part. I'm open to stones, systems, etc. If it is available on Amazon, that is great. My second question is what is considered the best "food grade" oil for protecting/lubricating your knives? Is mineral oil the best?

[quote]That's incorrect. TCA 39-17-1321 (a) covers possession of handgun under the influence. 39-17-1321b subsection applies to drinking while in an establishment while armed. You can't be in possession of the handgun while under the influence. There is no per se influence level for this statute like DUI has a per se level of .08 BAC. I don't even risk it. If I'm going to have a drink the gun stays at home.[/quote] WIthout getting into different statutes, that is exactly how I understood it and was told by the instructor during my safety course for my HCP. I guess I will continue to do exactly as I have been, regardless of what one may or may not get away with. A surefire way to play it safe is keep the alcohol away from your blood while in possession of a firearm. I imagine if you had to use the firearm for self defense and you have a BAC of anything, a defense attorney for the unfortunate soul that became a bullet magnet could have a field day with those numbers, regardless of what they were.

[quote][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]In all reality. You can carry AFTER having a beer, just not WHILE having a beer in a restaurant. but that's a personal choice.[/font][/color][/quote] Often my wife and I will go to a nice resteraunt, and she will have a drink. I will refrain from even trying hers just to stay on the safe side of things. Are you telling me that if I leave my sidearm in the car while eating, I can have a drink (such as a single glass of wine), and then be perfectly legal if I rearm myself after exciting the restaurant?